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In your case definitely try a bike out for fit and feel of it, swept bar bars for a more upright posture will help. Handle bars can be changed so not a big issue. Most bikes use 170 - 175 mm cranks though again you can get shorter cranks if needed.

Can you explain skittish with the PAS ?

Are the batteries of the same voltage ? How about some pics of the motor controller ? Lion is a good replacement solution for SLA, can the li-ons supply enough current to the controller ? SLA suggests possibly a brushed motor, brushed motors are often more current thirsyt then modern brushless...

If pushing 7.5a per cell in 2p format then 15a is quite a bit of power, a lazy rider will do this probably a throttle rider. I normally ask little more then 1a per cell unless I Iuse PAS 4 or 5 on steeper inclines. The reason people have bigger batteries apart from range is they are lazy and...

Budget ?

Always post pics as it helps. On an incline if in the wrong gear the clutch could possibly slip if one of the clutch springs on the rear jammed or the motor stalled/slipped.

The White is a hub internal speed sensor, if you are using an external speed sensor and wheel magnet connect the White to the spedd sensor signal wire. The speed sensor Black and Red can connect to Black and Red also in that hall block so they piggy back of the Gnd & 5v supply.

Not all connectors will match existing that is often why we say buy everything from the same seller so they simply plug and play. However you can simply buy new connectors to mate with each other for connection, getting the wire sequence correct is often the easy bit. The controller throttle is...

All said and done I'm pleased you have the bikes sorted NYC, enjoy their use.

Unless you use PAS5 or throttle you won't get near the 22a current output, though in general yes if upping the V's reduce the current.

Current lightest geared hub motor is a signwave AKM75sx at 1.44kg for 100mm forks, £81. Bafang's lightest is 1.7kg but nearly twice the price, £150. The smallest lightest rear motor is a Keyde 100/s100 with an internal controller, the Cst is for 135mm D/O's and comes in at 2kg, 35nm torque...

Yose are ok but there are better lighter motors and electronic kits available, you only need 10,12 15ah or more for longer 30mile rides. Most of these batteries use poor or mediocre cells and a bespsoke 2p battery using something like HG2 or VTC5/6 cells would out perform them on discharge...

You were one lucky lady that the mis connection the fist time round didn't cause an incorrect polarity contact and cause damage and more so the second time as the battery could have been wrongly connected internally without a meter to double check. The plate was likely correct for the original...

Go to planetx to look at there range of swept bars, the only one I didn't see last time were the 40 degree sweep Mike bars.

The difference is most use legal motor power and don't need registering a moped to use on the road also they can be ridden on bike trails etc,etc. Your illegal one is ok until you hurt someone or have a accident. It doesn't bother me you choose to go illegal but slagging off legit powered...

The clutch planetary gears might be damaged, under what circumstances did the drive cease ? Show some motor pics to see what you have got. There is usually an axle nut to undo on the LHS which also keeps the bearing seal in place, once removed the RHS face plate needs removing. It will have...

Many use kits for bikes but most aren't tailor made for all circumstances like light motor or small capacity battery. For lightweight motor you have to have a light bike and not be overly heavy, for a small battery you can use 5 or 6ah but need 20a + rated cells for small capacity.

No, if they aren't doing the job and with no hall id on them they could be anything as there are so many others hall designations.

If you use a bike with WP connectors or even a lot of kits use now then they can't be used for diagnosis.

If you are sure then you need an adapter XT60 male/Deans T female.