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Does it have it's own internal battery that needs replacing.

Which type of drive might depend on the effort you can exert, mid drive oem bikes use Torque sensing for the PAS so only multiplies the effort you can put in. Hub direvs in the main use cadence PAS which only needs you to gently rotate the cranks for input though if you give more effort you can...

Well done, good job. Now users will know that E07 is a motor hall fault/issue.

Does the 17mph reading mean the system is over reading speed as the GPS reads 15.5mph ? A 9.8% discrepancy that will also mean odo reading is out as well.

Yes scrappy time.

The best option is to replace all the electrics with a KT 24v controller kit, so new controller, lcd or led display, Pas sensor, throttle and brake cut out levers. Cost about £100.

Controller is a Lishui LSW861. Display is an analogue led with 3 power stings, it uses only four wires. Getting hold of a 24v Lishui will be nearly impossible unless one appears on ebay used.

5 pin Higo (Bafang) & 5 pin Julet (std oem) look similar and fit well together, though they are wholly incompatible as the wire sequence is different. If a Bafang display worked then surely Tongshng would have used them ?

The power isn't down to the motor as even a 250w hub can take about 1000w for short periods, the power is determined by the motor controller current and the battery continuous output to deliver it. The Suntour system you can't buy or upgrade with generic parts unless you replace all but the hub...

I would opt for the 22a model as you can reduce the amps using C5 setting. Be governed by the connectors you already have if re using throttle, PAS and brakes. The higo isn't compatible with Julet as the wire/pin sequence is different, though they do connect fine they won't work mixing and...

The controller in the link with the motor you supplied says 30a, so it will draw it. The motor I expect mentions a nominal current and will likely take more.

Build the pack with the cells at the factory voltage they arrived at. Which vendor did you use, Fogstar ?

You have to post pics of controller label/writing and also nice ones of the wiring/connectors, there are so many controllers we can't guess at what you might have.

You don't have to use specific rim tape, electrical tape can be used for wrap or two. I have a roll of tubeless tape which I on all my wheel builds.

I slept like a log again what someone chooses as a bike makes no difference to me so not bothered at all if the make or type is divulged or not.

28", 700c & 29" are all banded together as being the same size. However 28" tends to be road bike orientated where rims and tyres are skinny, 700c usually for hybrid /CX bikes that use 19mm/21mm rims with tyres up to about 50mm with less chunky treaded tyres & 29" the newer larger size used...

If you are handy with electronics measuring/testing, you can rig a meter or a cheap £2 voltage meter via the controller power wires. Make the wire extension long enough so you can see the read out on the bars or some where, go for a spin round the block and watch what happens to the voltage...

Because of CANbus handshaking that goes on the battery BMS needs to talk to the motor controller and display all at the same time. The battery cases are particularly difficult to open and uses hook type clips along the length of it, a thin flat probe (non metallic) needs to be inserted to try...

Dependant on your answer to Ben's post, you can buy replacement battery mount controllers if it is dead/blown. You will need to show us a pic of the battery.

You will have to stick with 36v as I doubt the controller or display will except 48v, at the very least the controller will go up in smoke. If the battery was at or above 28v then it might have been recoverable but 4.5v is dead.