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That controller has PAS and throttle, from what I can see you can't fit a display to it. Also it has a 30a current rating you won't get a lion battery with a 30a continuous discharge rating for £250.

Wrong polarity will blow the controller and possibly the battery fuse. The controller usuall has power wires +Red & - Black.

How old is the battery ?

That's a bugger. The old controller got wet inside I wonder if it might have damaged the hall in the PAS via the 5v line. With the PAS connected poke you probes into the back of the connector you should get 5v between 5v /Gnd & about 1v between Gnd/signal.

To remove the internals usually there is a nut inboard of the drop out on the LHS, a thin washer & rubber seal protecting a bearing. The face plate RHS is removed and then the internals can be withdrawn.

You can't use a meter on a Bosch battery, it has been said many times. Possible an internal fuse has blown if one is fitted , the only answer with them is back to a dealer but I don't think they are allowed to open them. If it was alive they can do a diagnostic check. My brother had a spare...

Lacing the spoke it will have to, to a degree be flexed and also in to the nipple if doen with the tyre in-situ. The actual question of How long a spoke should be is down to the rim ERD and calcs using a spoke calculator.

Typically one would say the battery has given up the ghost.

Power comes via current and not voltage. Looks like your controller is 22a +/- 1a which is more then most bikes but brushed motors often demand more current. How do you plan on connecting parallel and series connections and what material for the buss bar/interconnectors. The P ones don't have...

Any good ? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Electric-bike-battery-case-Viking-Coyote-Averset-Tesco-Frog-Battery-Case-Hopper/202927373007

Find a good independent bike repairer not Halfords, not only do they not know what they are doing you will also need unnecessary deep pockets. A work colleague too his young lads bmx type bike in to them only to walk out after they quoted £200 to repair it, he asked me as I'm known for my ebikes...

Measure the rim width, a 19mm rim will take a 2.25" tyre if the bike stay width allows. If the rim is 21 mm or more you can fit fatter/wider tyres. 26" is also 559mm ISO standard sizing.

No, Each PAS level is a % of the current the bike's controller is set to deliver . The BBSHD is about 30a where your average 250w motor is no more then 15 -18a. BBSHD supplying approx. 50/60% will out put more then a 250w motor in max PAS level.

Tubeless is only ok if you use the bike regularly as the sealant sets if it is only an occasional use bike. I have set up one bike but it is a faff and an expense to keep topping up. I cover all angles with tubes on my bikes, with my motor wheel front or rear hub I use Gaadi tubes so no faff in...

Towing I would go for rear hub or mid drive in that order.

I haven't looked at the pics as a bike is a bike being an older one will be suitable for most kits, but yes have had a butcher's and looks like it has already been to Halfords. Not the first time I've seen a bike with reversed forks. I once rode a mtb with front hub motor like that for 20 odd...

WIth hubs along as you can spin them at 50% of the optimal speed then they will be in the sweet spot for efficiency hence using a high torque one with low rpm (160 - 230rpm and lower optimal speed will be suitable, a low torque 270 - 330rpm hub would be less efficient as the optimal speed is higher.

Commonly known as an RCA 10.5mm for ebike chargers.

Taking it to Halfords might easily mount up as they will likely replace items just fr the sake of it and easy earner. Look locally to see if you have a community cycle workshop where users/members help each other/give advice on how to repair bikes and keep costs down. For a good ebike kit a...

I have trailer hitches on two 700c bikes both use a rear hub with 12 x 10 axle, just a case of drilling the 9mm hole for QR axle to 12mm.