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The Battery connector you can use any that matches your battery so if you need to cut them off and resolder on the wiring. The controller PAS and your PAS both have a JST sm3 female connector so you will need to change one for a male connector from Ebay/ Amazon or rob the ones off your old...

No you don't need the motor wire extender if it/the controller comfortably reach each other. Yes line the arrows up and gently push them together, on the male connector you will feel/see a raised line to push up to.

Your hub motor has the standard 9 pin Julet connector on the wheel stay you need the Julet motor extension cable to connect the motor to the controller. The wiring order follows a standard sequence so it is plug and play, you need this extender cable between the julet motor wire and the...

Have a word with Darren @ Brighto ebikes he might help to maintain the bike for you or know of a good independent to recommend also Kirstin may know of one as he is local to you.

I have replaced spokes on a twin wall rim with wheel in situ, the spoke does though need a little flexing to thread the crossing and into the nipple.

I stopped using Strava about two years ago though my Garmin's will still down load I think as default, no idea of my log in info though they still email me to which they go straight in the bin.

David1978 goodbye then.... It's common sense, quite right no mention of 40mph in the post, however the second line of " what I want is something fast that won't break the bank" suggests more then 15.5mph.

What no one has mentioned with the geared hub motor is it really depends on the motor winding/rpm of the hub as to how well it might climb inclines. Most just say hubs are no good without reason, you can't label all hubs as no good. You have to know the rpm to make the point. A faster winding...

A loose wire/wire shorting ? As CB has said you will only possibly know by opening up and looking.

We don't know if they were false readings or not ? Your experience certainly isn't what I have seen before. If you think the pack is scrap and plan on replacing it, then no loss by raising cell voltage and charging outside away from the dwelling for safety reasons alone. If all goes well then...

All branded cells have a date code but use different codes so you need to know them to cypher the date of production.

A great post flecc and all the relevant info in one place.

My 700c hybrids are fine on trails, you need a CX style frame with slightly wider tyres like 42mm or use 650b rims.

The sensor needs to send a signal so will need a spoke magnet to act as the switch break for the sensor. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Bicycle-COMPUTER-MAGNET-Universal-Replacement-Wheel-Spoke-Fit-Weldtite/184229647240?hash=item2ae4f15388:g:62YAAOSwSK9eR9 Or £1.50 from Halfords.

The controller is a speed controller so it will give max power/current all the time, the speed input is likely a bit jerky though actual speed is down to how fast the cranks turn. The more magnets the disc has the smoother the pickup will be so opt for 10 or 12 pole disc sensor.

Woosh Rambletta from Woosh bikes and some change, top quality CS and help. https://wooshbikes.co.uk/?rambletta

Don't use 50c again or the new Snaith start up company. Kudo cycles have a Bosch Hybrid bike at 1700. Shimano steps 6000 system appears to be good my brothe bought a Willier hybrid with steps and like sit say's it's quieter then his Bosch Kalhoff S from 2010.

Th sensors must pass a magnet somewhere whether it is a hall (3 wire) or reed (2 wire) type.

Like my 2006/7 Swizzbees they are old tech using brushed motor/controller set up and quite heavy, my pair one Nimh and one lipo now both run on 7s lion. Your stuttering might be down to motor brushes but if throttle runs ok may be not. Also check all phase connections are good. Current draw is...

The motor is brushed so two wires are neg and two are pos, pair of neg wires connect direct to controller pcb and other pair after ign sw connect to batt +. The Red is a the live /sw feed return ?