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Try checking the PAS sensor set up, does it use conventional disc and sensor ? PAS testing with battery on, set meter dial to 20v. Probe sensor + /- wires to see about 5v, then probe -/sig wire should see 1v. Rotating pas (motor wheel off ground) you should see 4 -5v as magnets pass sensor...

I have a similar meter which auto registers voltage and has no issue with both methods correlating. The important factor is the first and usual method of individual cell group measuring confirms all are near balanced, I would tread carefully and with the nice weather raise voltages and charge...

It is twist throttle application only. Wiring is a pair of battery wires. A pair of phase wires. One three wire throttle connector. Two x two wire brake cut out . A lock on/off switch. Battery charge indicator ? A tail lamp connector ? Any how you need some battery for that kit it needs 30a...

Right here goes third time lucky. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32954217852.html?spm=2114.12010612.8148356.4.30b45804Desxqt

For some reason my cut and paste repasted the wrong controller again, I will find the 17/19a brushed controller with PAS input.

Lets see what Ty finds first, one step at a time.

Maybe better if you can post pics as it currently is .

That is how a TA should be small inconspicuous with a flat side hole which is a tight fit over the flat sided hub axle.

A thought, with your meter did you have voltage set at 20v or 200v for the B- measuring .

There is only a brief battery description, no actual specs for the stuff in side, so can't comment on it. I still think for a hilly area a DD motor is not the best solution all I can say is buy it fit it then see how it goes, there have been a few who have bemoaned the lack of oomph from these...

They say that because the chain line will be a bit out, which means cross chaining means some gears can's be used. Typicall small/small or a couple small and large/large or a couple of large. The BBS can certainly except twin chain rings which I have done and I think maybe some one on here will...

Do the work and a link to the battery and I will look.

I too would agree if the bike works ok then there is no need for upgrades and a simple bike computer might do the job. Though contradicting the above I like the lcd as it gives me other info such as watts and voltage as well as other info, tbh the bike computers I use like cateye etc, I don't...

Argh a naughty button :cool: .

I got it right this time found one 36v 250w, 17/19a rated any three wire PAS will work...

Beg pardon you were too quick, I deleted my post after realising I posted the wrong info. As I mentioned most are throttle only, it might be hard finding pedal assist model.

Those dc motors are brushed motors two phase nearly all the brushed controllers only have throttle control, for pedal/cadence control a brushed controller with pas input will be required . They aren't common now as ebikes now all use brushless three phase.

Throttle only with no brake sensors is recipe for a disaster to happen at some stage and also non compliant with any pedelecs or S- pedelec ruling. Don't think I'm not against speed bikes, it's the users choice but at least cover the basics for safety.

Only via a BH dealer or try direct to BH in Spain.

Home fashioned ones are all I use so I can utilise one piece design and any nearby unused threaded hole for a tied fixing. Most available TA are two or three piece items, each piece using a bolt/nut ok on low powered stuff but for 1kw a single solid one piece TA will be best.