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The battery is not fine if it is only 50% healthy, to put it mildly is f***ed. As soon as you hit a hill and ask for higher current and load from the battery is will sag and cut out. The Battery is worth nothing so you need to factor in the price of a new battery or re-cell in the asking price.

Manual charging with a 5v phone charger needs very careful monitoring to prevent over charge, not really sure how much damage the cells may have suffered as it is above there max threshold. I would leave the battery some where very safe tonight as there is a chance of internal thermal runaway...

It the magnet gap it too large you could close the gap with another small magnet on top of the existing.

If cells hold up and don't self discharge might be worth trying another 14s BMS.

One of the cell groups is at 4.2v so it will prevent the others balancing esp as the voltages are so wide a part, discounting the very low group other still vary by 0.15v which is not balanceable in the normal way. BMS can't cope balancing when cells are even 0.1v out, they are for fine...

1500 miles at a guess is 30 odd cycles , whether the imbalance is down to the BMS or with the 3.92v group a bad or dodgy discharging cell is not known. Have you tried to manually charge the low cell groups at all by disconnecting the BMS and charging thru the balance leads ? By balancing...

Not even a mum or dad towing a sprog along.

Ciao Antonio, welcome to the forum. Plenty of helpful people on here so if you have any questions fire them off.

He or she doesn't want to spend much money, so a re-cell may well cost too much.

Yes it probably is a potentiometer as to whether you would get away with 10% over speed only a court /magistrate could decide. The actual 10% over speed would be 17.05 mph.

It made total sense to me and logic told me Raboa would be using a trailer.

If you know the voltage you can use any battery of the same voltage, just a case of securing it to the bike. Show us a pic of the bike and battery, for the battery the capacity is immaterial so you can use one of any Ah/Wh as long as the voltage is correct. Your bike will be 24 or 36v.

If you were a regular on ES then you will find that the 30Q is a poor choice of cell to use and cycle life isn't very good, 30Q suffers from self discharge after only about 50 cycles. Currently there is a very good thread going on over the other side of the pond and a couple of members are doing...

The battery innards look quite accessible and in pic 1 of the bike, the battery end plate is simply screwed on so access to remove the cell pack for testing looks very possible.

Issue will be likely be battery related, do you have a volt/test meter ? The first step would be to measure the battery voltage at the output/discharge contacts an easy 10 second job. After two years of no use one of the battery cell groups may have self drained if you are confident and...

Butts will have DNA though.

High torque all day long for a heavy rider, hills & even for those who do a bit of towing.

If motor phase is sound then the results connected or not will be the same.

Going back to why you thought +/- should test for continuity is a strange one as it is a recipe for disaster . It doesn't occur with a battery and if it did you would short out permanently causing damage, possibly fire. That's why your fuse blew (protecting the battery/controller) whilst...

Motors don't cause issues with shorting, they simply don't work. The controller stops this happening. Your issue is with the battery/docking connection. If you had continuity on the controller between + & -- then you would have an issue, the two circuits are separate and so they should be. If...