A trailer for ebike or non ebike towing.

guerney

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It's push/pull but there's also torque, and I'd further worry that it'll act through the bar onto the frame, which isn't designed for force being applied on those points at those angles- could your frame bend? Like you said, I may be overworrying.
 

guerney

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I think it will be safer and stronger then relying on the 9mm QR to take all the strain, as I said the strain is taken by the three securing points so no one will be taking all the strain.
The 9mm QR is made of strong material designed for high loads, and is likely stronger than the bolt on the end of the arm holding on the hitching point? If you're certain that bolt won't break, or the bar won't bend, or bend or damage your bike frame, or the bands won't snap. Sorry Nealh, I worry about metal addons.
 

guerney

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Nealh

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I'm not bothered about the bolt holding the hitch on, it is made from aerospace aluminium used in the UK's space program. I can't tell you how I acquired it.
 
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guerney

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I'm not bothered about the bolt holding the hitch on, it is made from aerospace aluminium used in the UK's space program. I can't tell you how I acquired it.
I'd only insist you told me, if you did a spacewalk to get it.
 

Nealh

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247.50 euros for a looong arm :eek:

I was thinking along those lines, it would be cheaper to buy the correct box size ali and using a plumbers heavy duty pipe bender to put an offset bend in the tube.
1500mm x 25mm x 25mm x 3mm ali box section £22 inc p&p on ebay.
 
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Nealh

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The 9mm QR is made of strong material designed for high loads, and is likely stronger than the bolt on the end of the arm holding on the hitching point? If you're certain that bolt won't break, or the bar won't bend, or bend or damage your bike frame, or the bands won't snap. Sorry Nealh, I worry about metal addons.
Buy as we know only 45kg max load.
 

guerney

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Buy as we know only 45kg max load.
There'd be warning signs unless something suddenly bends or snaps - paint cracking and/or flaking off the bike frame due to bends/flexing, would be something to watch out for.
 

Nealh

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This 0.5m extender is abit cheaper at £86 - £95.
47227
 
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guerney

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guerney

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Another heavier solution is to cut the CF arm in two places, to extend both lengths at either side of the elbow, using both inner and out box aluminium or steel tubing, so that the CF tubing fits inside one slightly box section, and is reinforced by another slighter smaller smaller box section within the CF box section - cut to length, drilled and bolted (using bolts from the UK space progamme's top secret Mars mission currently under construction in orbit, which you acquired during your spacewalk ;)) through three box sections securely at four points (at least). Depending on the weight of the extra metal, carrying capacity would be reduced by a kg or three+. It'd be tough to get measurements right, so that the trailer follows along centrally and as straight as it does now.

On the other hand, you might regret not simply buying a longer CF arm...
 
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guerney

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I was thinking along those lines, it would be cheaper to buy the correct box size ali and using a plumbers heavy duty pipe bender to put an offset bend in the tube.
1500mm x 25mm x 25mm x 3mm ali box section £22 inc p&p on ebay.
Presumably the alloy they use is stronger? Don't know much about CF's "aluminium 6061T6" - so maybe if you were to try the above, perhaps use a slightly thicker and stronger purer aluminium box section, to match 6061T6's strength and stiffness? Doesn't sound like an easy bending operation - copper is much softer and the pipes which plumber's bending tools are usually used for, are comparitively narrow. You might need some sort of machine with more grunt for box section? A trial run would be worth it, if you've got some scrap aluminium box section of similar size lying around. Aluminium might need to be heated while bending, to prevent fatique/cracking? Copper is more ductile than aluminium.
 
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matthewslack

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Nov 26, 2021
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20220602_082916.jpg

Tricky job, and could leave a weakness in the bend not visible until cracking starts.
 
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guerney

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Less risk of cracks with steel (looks rusty), although when inserted into aluminium box tube, it'll slowly wear that away...

 

guerney

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The other day I realised with my modded trailer and the extra frame work of the long tail ute, I would have an issue connecting the tow arm as well as straining the QR with all the towing weight.
So I put my heath robinson thinking cap on to come up with a solution I think will work by adding a new towing hitch.
400mm of 25mm x 6mm aluminium & 3 x 18mm P clips and 3 x nuts and bolts to sturdily tie the ali bar to the bike frame in three places, the combined tie points should be strong enough to spread the pull load on the bike frame rather then just using the axle alone.

My heath attachment of the bar puts the tow hitch much further back and easier to hook up the trailer. The three P clips giving a good secure anchor to three points on the rear frame.
View attachment 47222

With the panniers fitted most of it is hidden.
View attachment 47223

The rear looking view shows little, also by adding the bar for the hitch attachment I was able to lower the hitch beneath the axle so it is at a height to suit the trailers 20" wheel better. This allow a more level sitting trailer rather then one slightly pitch up at the front.
View attachment 47224
I'd consider covering the plastic collars under those clips with self-amalgamating rubber tape, to stop dirt entering between the collars and the paintwork - over time, small movemnets will move grit, acting as sandpaper wearing away that lovely paintwork.
 

guerney

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Sep 7, 2021
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After seeing @matthewslack's post:


... I've bought a flag


...but don't want to spend £30 (delivered), which looks well made and a tad overengineered - if it wasn't for just the one bolt.


... on a Carry Freedom flag and light holder. Time to get my Heath Robinson hat on? I could just tighten a G-clamp onto the platform and attach the flag to that, which will no doubt separate and take out a driver behind me. I'd like to avoid drilling holes into the platform, unless it's for the official CF flag holder.

At times like this, I wish I had a lathe and welding kits. This might hold aluminium rod still enough to drill a hole through for the flagpole?


I might just get a thick aluminium solid square bar, cut off a square, drill a hole for the flagpole, and tap it from the other side to srew a bolt through (plus washer), from under the trailer platform. Drilling a long straight hole using a handheld drill could be tricky, even through aluminium. If the hold(s) drilled through the platform isn't larger than that/those needed for the CF flag holder, if my home made effort didn't work out, I could use it/them for the CF holder.

Or through a section of round bar for £3.70


I may forgo the fiddly drilling of a long hole for the flagpole, by simply cutting off three X 3" lenths and binding them together using jubilee clips, thereby forming a hole in the middle, then drill and tap one or two of those lengths, and bolt through fron under the platform.

alternatively, I can cut off some aluminium box section I have lying around, and bolt it to a corner joint:


...then fill the box section with araldite, pop in the flagpole, and bolt it to the platform when the araldite dries. Or simply drill a couple of holes through a bit of metal plate, and bolt it onto the vertical side of the corner joint to clamp the flagpole in position.
 
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guerney

Esteemed Pedelecer
Sep 7, 2021
10,218
2,998
The other day I realised with my modded trailer and the extra frame work of the long tail ute, I would have an issue connecting the tow arm as well as straining the QR with all the towing weight.
So I put my heath robinson thinking cap on to come up with a solution I think will work by adding a new towing hitch.
400mm of 25mm x 6mm aluminium & 3 x 18mm P clips and 3 x nuts and bolts to sturdily tie the ali bar to the bike frame in three places, the combined tie points should be strong enough to spread the pull load on the bike frame rather then just using the axle alone.

My heath attachment of the bar puts the tow hitch much further back and easier to hook up the trailer. The three P clips giving a good secure anchor to three points on the rear frame.
View attachment 47222

With the panniers fitted most of it is hidden.
View attachment 47223

The rear looking view shows little, also by adding the bar for the hitch attachment I was able to lower the hitch beneath the axle so it is at a height to suit the trailers 20" wheel better. This allow a more level sitting trailer rather then one slightly pitch up at the front.
View attachment 47224
This solution I fear, will cause your bike (at the very least paintwork) problems. And it's nice paintwork, at the mo.
 
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Nealh

Esteemed Pedelecer
Aug 7, 2014
20,130
8,230
60
West Sx RH
I have used your tip and placed a wrap of amalgam tape to the frame first then the P clip over it, also I went with your other tip and have insatlled a new rectangular hollow section bar with a 30mm x 12mm section.
 

guerney

Esteemed Pedelecer
Sep 7, 2021
10,218
2,998
I have used your tip and placed a wrap of amalgam tape to the frame first then the P clip over it, also I went with your other tip and have insatlled a new rectangular hollow section bar with a 30mm x 12mm section.
I don't know enough about anything to do with bikes to give out tips Nealh - I just try to think about what might or might not happen based on my small knowledge gleaned largely from Metalwork and Design Technology "O" levels at school, which needless to say was a very long time ago. It's all b*llocks you're best advised to filter. Hope it all works out well.
 
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