Cyclotricity 250W/1000W 48V Rear Drive eKit Fitting Installation

[tushingham2]

So I have a new rear wheel kit. Trying to fit a 7 speed shimano freewheel and there is no clearance?

The washer hits the cog please see images? Am I missing some proper spacers?

May be try a 5 speed freewheel

 

[Mugatu78]

Anyone know if the hydraulic brake sensors of ebay for bafa g etc woukd worm on a cyclotricity bike? Like coukd it mess uo the co troller or something. Its the yellow push connectkrs on it for the brakes but the ones they supply are for cables not hydraulic. Just thought coukd mby fit the sensors to cut the motor on braking

 

[tushingham2]

Anyone know if the hydraulic brake sensors of ebay for bafa g etc woukd worm on a cyclotricity bike? Like coukd it mess uo the co troller or something. Its the yellow push connectkrs on it for the brakes but the ones they supply are for cables not hydraulic. Just thought coukd mby fit the sensors to cut the motor on braking

Yes the could work but i have found that they don’t stick on long after rain.
have word with alan at Cyclotricty he may be able to help

 

[Jim e]

So I have a new rear wheel kit. Trying to fit a 7 speed shimano freewheel and there is no clearance?

The washer hits the cog please see images? Am I missing some proper spacers?

Hi there,I have same kit ,onto a hybrid bike 7 speed screw on freewheel,it came with a chunky alloy washer which went behind freewheel ,this gave enough clearance ,I then had to add a few washers,nuts etc to then let the 7th gear cog clear the frame,took a bit of tension levering to get wheel ,axle i to frame but it did work and that was last may 2019 and must say brilliant job ,not one issue to date ,yes a bit of faffing to get it in but for me great take care Jim

 

[Mugatu78]

Yes the could work but i have found that they don’t stick on long after rain.
have word with alan at Cyclotricty he may be able to help

Thankyou. On 2nd look they are actually red connectors. Looks like 2 wire reds. Not sure what that means. Thinkingof trying to fit the sensors from the canke brakes they gv me

 

[logicped]

Hey Jim, I am just fitting my 500w Cyclotricity rear setup same as yours. I have managed to add enough washers for the cog to clear the frame but have noticed that my wheel is quite badly offset to the frame. Is yours the same? I have v-brakes and they don't line up because the wheel is not in the middle.

Hi there,I have same kit ,onto a hybrid bike 7 speed screw on freewheel,it came with a chunky alloy washer which went behind freewheel ,this gave enough clearance ,I then had to add a few washers,nuts etc to then let the 7th gear cog clear the frame,took a bit of tension levering to get wheel ,axle i to frame but it did work and that was last may 2019 and must say brilliant job ,not one issue to date ,yes a bit of faffing to get it in but for me great take care Jim

 

[Jim e]

Hey Jim, I am just fitting my 500w Cyclotricity rear setup same as yours. I have managed to add enough washers for the cog to clear the frame but have noticed that my wheel is quite badly offset to the frame. Is yours the same? I have v-brakes and they don't line up because the wheel is not in the middle.

Hi there,I will say not completely in middle ,but not stupidly off either if that makes sense ,maybe add a little washer to other side but careful on the levering it in ,think it's about getting a ok balance between the two sides, must repeat when you do get it sorted brilliant job ,hope you get sorted

 

[Nealh]

If the rim/wheel isn't central then with rims brakes you will have to dish the rim to move it over, dishing the rim means adjusting the spokes to force the rim over to one side you can do this with the wheel on the bike. Using washers won't work as you will be stretching the drop outs, with disk brakes you align the rotor/calliper up and then dish the wheel.
Measure in mm the distance from rim to the stay and make a note.
From the side that is closest to the stay you have to undo all the spoke nipples (start at the valve and I use a piece of masking tape as I go around so I don't loose track of the spoke nipple I'm working on) on that side of the rim one full turn each (each nipple needs to be undone the exact same amount), once done go to the other side and tighten the nipples one complete turn. Now measure the rim to stay spacing to see how much it has moved, from this you can decide if you need to repeat all over again and whether you need to again do undo the nipples one complete turn or try just half a turn.

 

[D C]

Seems like you will have to centre the wheel using spoke tension, slacken each spoke equally on one side then tighten each spoke equally on the other side, keep doing this until the wheel is central. You may have to fine tune a little after doing this to keep the rim running true.
Dave.
Sorry Neal, our replies crossed, yours is far better than mine

 

[Jim e]

If the rim/wheel isn't central then with rims brakes you will have to dish the rim to move it over, dishing the rim means adjusting the spokes to force the rim over to one side you can do this with the wheel on the bike. Using washers won't work as you will be stretching the drop outs, with disk brakes you align the rotor/calliper up and then dish the wheel.
Measure in mm the distance from rim to the stay and make a note.
From the side that is closest to the stay you have to undo all the spoke nipples (start at the valve and I use a piece of masking tape as I go around so I don't loose track of the spoke nipple I'm working on) on that side of the rim one full turn each (each nipple needs to be undone the exact same amount), once done go to the other side and tighten the nipples one complete turn. Now measure the rim to stay spacing to see how much it has moved, from this you can decide if you need to repeat all over again and whether you need to again do undo the nipples one complete turn or try just half a turn.

Cheers guys for that fix mine not too far off but gona give that fix a go thanks

 

[logicped]

Thanks all. Turns out that one of my drop outs needed filing as the axle wasn't quite in all the way. After doing this it aligned ok. Just tried my 250w/500w from Cyclotricity and get power to the LED, but nothing to the motor... now going to start troubleshooting.

- I assume that the LED controller will allow throttle only, as I don't have the PAS setup
- I assume that the brake sensors do NOT need to be installed for the motor to run

 

[Jim e]

Thanks all. Turns out that one of my drop outs needed filing as the axle wasn't quite in all the way. After doing this it aligned ok. Just tried my 250w/500w from Cyclotricity and get power to the LED, but nothing to the motor... now going to start troubleshooting.

- I assume that the LED controller will allow throttle only, as I don't have the PAS setup
- I assume that the brake sensors do NOT need to be installed for the motor to run

Hi there on mine I didnt have the three heavy cables pushed in far enough from memory, sorted that all good also no brake switches on mine works fine

 

[Mugatu78]

Yes my back wheel is. Now off cebtrw aswell. To be honest ive left it foe now as working fine. When i dismantle to change tyre and hv another go at torque arns im gny try even it out with washers, i hv disc brake so biisnt affecting it for now

 

[logicped]

That was EXACTLY it!

Hi there on mine I didnt have the three heavy cables pushed in far enough from memory, sorted that all good also no brake switches on mine works fine

 

[Nealh]

Seems like you will have to centre the wheel using spoke tension, slacken each spoke equally on one side then tighten each spoke equally on the other side, keep doing this until the wheel is central. You may have to fine tune a little after doing this to keep the rim running true.
Dave.
Sorry Neal, our replies crossed, yours is far better than mine

We both gave the same advice which is what counts Dave.