That is very clever, I knew there was some sort of freewheel in there somewhere, but I didn't expect this. It's amazing they are as reliable as they are.z0mb13e, the pedal force drive into the pedal shaft is transferred into the inboard end of the surrounding amorphous sleeve, and from the r/h outboard end of that sleeve the drive goes into a pawl freewheel that connects to the independent chainring and thence to the chain. Therefore all the pedal force runs though the sleeve which is turning at the same rate and in the same direction as the pedalshaft. The photo below shows the inboard inner splines on the shaft which transfers drive into the sleeve, and the outboard outer splines that connect the sleeve into the pawl freewheel for the r/h chainring. The chainring has to be freewheeled so that any slight motor overrun when pedalling stops does not kick the pedals from the rider's feet. Here the amorphous sleeve is within it's readout coil unit below the pedalshaft:
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Looking at at the voltages you measured on the sensor connector I think you are right, it is most likely phase displacement.I don't really think of it as a differential transformer -- more a bridge type circuit with unbalance caused by differing inductance of the two coils as the susceptibility of the magnetic core changes as a result of the torque.
The components are very substantial, really chunky double width pawls and engagement teeth, automotive precision sealed bearings rather than the cheap ballraces so often used in bikes, and the pedal shaft has to be handled to appreciate the engineering quality and how strong it is. For example, below is the chunky pawl assembly of that chainwheel freewheel, the same double tooth pawl the opposite side, and alongside a two-angle view of the toothed housing it sits in, complete with it's sealed external bearing. Internally that housing has a needle roller race for the freewheeling function. The end splines carry the chainring and it's circlip:That is very clever, I knew there was some sort of freewheel in there somewhere, but I didn't expect this. It's amazing they are as reliable as they are.
This is something I was intending to ask about, but had not got around to it in my earlier post today..........For example, below is the chunky pawl assembly of that chainwheel freewheel, the same double tooth pawl the opposite side, ......
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Mike,This is something I was intending to ask about, but had not got around to it in my earlier post today..
When I withdrew this chain ring shaft today I found that one the two pawls was installed flipped over. the one in the left pic below is correct. The right pic showing the pawl on the opposite side shows that pawl flipped to be over, so it would not engage. Has this bike been running with only one pawl engaging, or did the flip over happen when Cyclezee opened the motor to see what was wrong? If he did not withdraw this shaft from the housing then I cant see how his opening up could have caused the flip over.
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I don't think that this was the problem causing the motor to fail since Cyclezee reported torque sensor zeroing error lights, and I don't see how a flip over of one pawl would cause that. When one switches on one is supposed not to pedal while the zeroing takes place. I imagine that zeroing is just the balancing by means of the bridge of the inductance on the two sensor coils with no twist in the torque shaft.
Mike,
Just to clarify, I did not open the motor casing until after the fault occured and I did not withdraw the chain ring shaft. I only gave the internals a cursory glance looking for an obvious fault such as a broken or loose wire which I didn't really expect to find. Then I put the casing back together.
Your knowledge never ceases to amaze!That pawl assembly error could well be the problem 10mph.
Panasonic have at one time used the amorphous alloy sleeve description and I have seen 50cycles repeat it in a post in here. Since Panasonic understandably release so little information about units not designed for internal repairs, this is how I gained my knowledge of them over time, from little snippets that escape into the wild which I piece together.
That's an excellent bit of research you've done there 10mph and I'm sure you are right on this. It really is all we need to know about the torque sensor and it's action.I suspect that just reading the above abstract provides all we Panasonic Motor Users need to know about this technology.
I have a few questions.That pawl assembly error could well be the problem 10mph.
From Japan? I thought that was only an issue with British manufacturingMaybe what's known in the business as a Monday morning or Friday afternoon one.![]()
Can we see the 11pin connector end on?I wonder whether any forum member can guide me towards a source of this 11 pin plug used on the Panasonic motor and its matching socket attached to the cable leading to the handlebar unit?
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Here is a picture of the plug mated with a socket - taken from my 2011 model Agattu. It seems to be the same wiring.
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I have also emailed 50 cycles for help with understanding the connections to the handlebar unit, and I have asked whether they can sell me either the old style or the new style handle bar unit.
That is brilliant. You are a star des56daw!Photo of handlebar unit(old style) agattu SW3 is power SW2 mode
I appreciate your help.Can we see the 11pin connector end on?
No need to take apart the working bike...I appreciate your help.
I have only been able to get a photo of the socket end of the 11 pin connector from the dud motor. I would have to put my working bike up on the stand and dismantle to break the connector to get a view of the 11 pin plug end. I am reluctant to do this unless you definitely need a view of the pins to aid identification.
The two other connections are slightly different, but again, 0.1" pitch molex connectors would probably fit the header on the PCB. Without a Molex or Foxconn catalog it would be difficult to track down the exact connector as there are so many of them.I have also photo'd the pins on a similar socket - the 6 pin Hall socket on the circuit board and the 3 pin torque sensor socket. I assume that the pins of the 11 pin plug must be similar. Included in this picture is the region of the board with the input circuits to process these signals. I can't make really make anything from what I see on this side of the board. The processor is to the left.
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