Hall sensor configuration possibly causing C3 error?

[vfr400]

That's not right 18K is a completely bogus reading. The phases have very low resistance (like 0.1 Ohms) - so low that most normal meters can't measure it, and zero ohms would be a normal reading

 

[vfr400]

Do these tests. they should indicate where your problem is:
Here's a basic structure for checking an Ebike after connecting everything up and switching on.

1. Measure the voltage at controller's battery connector. Obviously should be battery voltage.
2. Measure the voltage on the 5v rail. You can get that on any of the reds going to throttle, PAS or motor halls.
3. Check throttle signal wire. Should give about 1v to 4v when you twist the throttle.
4. Check that the PAS is pulsing. measure the PAS signal wire while turning the pedals slowly. Should pulse 5v on and off every time a magnet passes the sensor.
5. Check the motor hall signal wires (blue green and yellow). They should each pulse with 5v going on and off as you rotate the wheel BACKWARDS.

 

[Wisper Bikes]

I have put a deposit on a new Wisper Wayfarer bike and am hoping that it will be available soon, but I am so determined to finish what I started with this old Powacycle bike . I have put a lot of hours attempting to get it running and I idealy don't want to abandon it.

We start building them THIS week John, in fact it's tomorrow! All very exciting. We are building 1350 for this year in lots of about 270 a go. The first production run and much of the second have sold out already. The first container (Built in Taiwan) has just arrived in NZ and reports so far are very encouraging, in deed they are now pushing me to get the second container on the water.



All the best, David

 

[Nealh]

I would step back from the motor at the mo as it is not getting you anywhere.
Battery voltage and output is good, yes. So retest the controller mosfets disconnect the motor phase/hall wires and test them again, short the controller v+/- together to discharge the capacitor and do the high and low side ohm's test to make sure controller is sound.

 

[crystaljohn]

OH so maybe I'm not as clumsy as I thought I might have been .

I have a Multifunction tester capable of measuring in the Ohms range in increments of 0.1 ohm, just remeasured with this instrument, instead of what I had used, and found that across the phases it's 0.22ohm. ( should have initially used this to measure instead of the multimeter I had in the garage!)

I will carry out the basic checks again Neil . I know I have the correct battery voltage appearing at the controller as I measured it. I measured the throttle voltage yesterday: with throttle closed 0.8v, with throttle open 3.8v.

I havn't measured the PAS signal wire voltage as the crank is revolved yet.

I have previously measured the Hall signal voltage as the wheel was turned BACKWARDS , this was O.K then, I will recheck.

 

[crystaljohn]

We start building them THIS week John, in fact it's tomorrow! All very exciting. We are building 1350 for this year in lots of about 270 a go. The first production run and much of the second have sold out already. The first container (Built in Taiwan) has just arrived in NZ and reports so far are very encouraging, in deed they are now pushing me to get the second container on the water.



All the best, David

Thanks for the information David. I put a deposit down on June 9th at the e-bike-center in Chichester, Sussex. Does that mean I can expect the bike soon?

 

[crystaljohn]

I would step back from the motor at the mo as it is not getting you anywhere.
Battery voltage and output is good, yes. So retest the controller mosfets disconnect the motor phase/hall wires and test them again, short the controller v+/- together to discharge the capacitor and do the high and low side ohm's test to make sure controller is sound.

I'm afaid I don't understand . I would appreciate you explaining in more detail about retesting the controller mosfets. ( I havn't tested them ever)

You mention disconnecting the motor/hall wires and testing them again.

How do I do the High and low side ohm's test?

 

[Nealh]

O.k so much work/testing has occurred I thought they had been checked.

As you are not getting anywhere with the chart I posted and 24 combo's have produced nothing ( they should do).
Then check the controller fets via the phases wires.
Disconnect the controller and short out the battery connection V +/- to discharge the main inrush capacitor, nothing weird will happen.
Set your meter to DC 20k or 200k ohms.
Measure each phase against the controller V- (low side)for three readings they should all be the same up to about 20k, any that are widely out indicates a fault.
Do the same but use the V+ (High side), again the three readings should all be the same but not necessarily the same as first three. Any widely out reading indicates a fault.

 

[crystaljohn]

Thanks Neil. I've got it. I will test them later this afternoon and record readings. Much appreciated.

 

[Nealh]

Thanks Neil. I've got it. I will test them later this afternoon and record readings. Much appreciated.

When I said disconnect controller I meant fully no battery or motor connections.

 

[crystaljohn]

I have now carried out the f.e.t tests.

I shorted out the controller V+/- , there was a significant flash ( battery was disconnected)

on my digital meter I measured each phase against the controller V-. all 3 phases 9.8k Ohms

each phase against the controller V+ was about 1.4M Ohms.

I initialy tried the V+ on the 200k meter range, but the readings were continuously climbing, I had to switch to the 2M range to get a stable reading.

Checked the motor hall signal wires (blue green and yellow). They each pulsed with 5v going on and off as I rotated the wheel BACKWARDS.

Checked the PAS connector had +5v . I couldn't test for a pulse on the signal wire as I couldn't turn the crank and hold my meter probes at the same time without risking possible shorting.

I need to make up something to enable this check.


Plugged the new PAS as shown in my photo post number 31 into the controller and turned the central part. I noticed the C3 error again.

 

[Nealh]

Ok John at least that has ruled out the controller as having a mosfet issue.
Beg pardon regarding the shorting flash, I guess the cap was fully charged nearly.

 

[Nealh]

Disconnect the throttle see if PAS will work.
What about brake out outs ?
Disconnect them too if fitted.

 

[crystaljohn]

The flash certainly woke me up.
I'll try disconnecting the throttle tmw to see if PAS will work.
No brake switch wires connected into the controller so as to eliminate another potential problem from the equation.

 

[vfr400]

Just to eliminate the obvious. You're not on PAS 0 are you?

 

[crystaljohn]

I have set C1 to 5 ( C1 is the PAS setting in my understanding, is that correct?)

I have recorded all my settings in my post Number 9 btw.

 

[Nealh]

Vfr refers to PAS level on your display/lcd, if it is on 0 PAS won't work.


The PAS you showed in pic #31 is a V12L and the setting for it is C1 05, 06 or 07.
If a different PAS sensor is used then C1 should be tried on setting 00, 01 or 02.

 

[crystaljohn]

Thanks for that information Neil. I will try the different settings for C1 when I temporarily connect it to my controller .
I would appreciate confirmation that this is a self contained unit and doesn't rely on an external magnet?

I would have fitted it but I didn't have a crank extractor tool, and I couldn't work out how it fixes to the bike.

With the existing PAS I will try C1 with 00, 01,02

 

[Nealh]

Yes the V12L is an all in one unit with self contained magnet/hall sensors, they can be a bit hit and miss for reliability. The biggest issue with fitting is not having enough gap between BB shell and inside of the crank arm.

 

[crystaljohn]

I have loads of room to fit on l.h.s. There doesn't appear to be any method of fitting though.
There is not a bracket. I can only think that its intended to be glued to the housing that forms the lower part of the frame tubes that supports the crank bearings. ( is that part reffered to as the BB shell?)