Help please, TSDZ2 problem...

[grecoa]

Another question. The seller was advertising the TSDZ2 as "New upgraded 2018 model"
Anyone know if there really was/is a new upgraded 2018 model, or is it just sales talk (that worked on me.....)
Additional question. How would I know I have received the new improved model?????

 

[Woosh]

Another question. The seller was advertising the TSDZ2 as "New upgraded 2018 model"
Anyone know if there really was/is a new upgraded 2018 model, or is it just sales talk (that worked on me.....)
Additional question. How would I know I have received the new improved model?????

you look at the manufactured date on the label.

 

[grecoa]

Placed a rubber washer on the spoke magnet and managed to get it to 2.5mm from the sensor. Feels nice and firm on the spoke and is well lined up with the arrow on the sensor.

Nipped out for a quick 6.6 miles and all went well...

We will see what happens.

Thanks for your replies. I'll ask for more help if the problem returns.
Cheers

 

[DouglasXK]

Another question. The seller was advertising the TSDZ2 as "New upgraded 2018 model"
Anyone know if there really was/is a new upgraded 2018 model, or is it just sales talk (that worked on me.....)
Additional question. How would I know I have received the new improved model?????

There are at least two differences. The spider which attaches the chainring to the main gear is all black instead of a silvery colour - you can’t mistake that. The other is the main gear cover which has rather more square edges and feels stronger although whether it is or not remains to be seen. The more significant difference is that the motor is quieter, a lot quieter. I will open this one up one day and see what grease they’re using these days but that can’t be the answer, improved machining tolerances might be the more logical reason.

 

[DouglasXK]

Thanks DouglasXK,
Wouldn't a bent connector pin give a permanent fault?

It’s very easily done. ES has one reference to this happening by one of the US importers. It was described as intermittent.

 

[grecoa]

There are at least two differences. The spider which attaches the chainring to the main gear is all black instead of a silvery colour - you can’t mistake that. The other is the main gear cover which has rather more square edges and feels stronger although whether it is or not remains to be seen. The more significant difference is that the motor is quieter, a lot quieter. I will open this one up one day and see what grease they’re using these days but that can’t be the answer, improved machining tolerances might be the more logical reason.

Well, it looks like I have indeed received the newer model and I must say I was thinking that it does appear to be quieter than others have commented and indeed posted videos of. If it is due better machining tolerances then that certainly is a positive improvement!

 

[JAD]

Hi there, I am new in the forum. I have a TSDZ2 motor and the initial torque reading is 98. Does anyone know how could I change that? Have I done something wrong with the installation?
Thanks!

 

[DouglasXK]

Hi there, I am new in the forum. I have a TSDZ2 motor and the initial torque reading is 98. Does anyone know how could I change that? Have I done something wrong with the installation?
Thanks!

The standard motor does not give you a torque value but if 98 appears on your display, this could be the speed sensor set too close to the magnet?

 

[JAD]

The standard motor does not give you a torque value but if 98 appears on your display, this could be the speed sensor set too close to the magnet?

I have no idea... I will check and get back. Many thanks!!

 

[TJS109]

I have no idea... I will check and get back. Many thanks!!

As DouglasXK said it is almost certainly a speed reading. I had this problem the sensor position is quite sensitive to position as well as spacing. The wheel magnet needs to be positioned on the correct bit of the sensor there should be a line on the sensor indicating this. The easiest way might be to get the back wheel off the ground and fiddle with it until you get a correct reading. Also the tie wraps need to be tight as sensor vibration will also cause problems.

 

[JAD]

Hi, I tried a lot with the sensor but no result. In the meantime I sent a message to maker who advised that this setting cannot be changed... I have two motors, one with setting 75 and one with 98 as per attached.
The one with 75 rides just fine. The one with 98 needs some extra power while pedalling which does not make it so fun to ride.

 

[it is i footpump]

I too have had issues in the past with the spoke magnet/ sensor you get little assist and strange speed reading ie 60mph and had to readjust sensor and magnet position

 

[GoodBykeRider]

Thanks everyone - very useful thread - probably the only one that talks about the TE and TE1 torque values.

I tested yesterday my new TSDZ2 (36V, 350W) before mounting it on the bike, as advised in the TSDZ2 manual (from the web). While waiting for the proper battery to arrive, I connected the motor with VLCD5, a provisional battery (3*12V) and the speed sensor. Also plugged in the throttle cable to VLCD5. The motor turned fine by pushing the throttle (motor speed varied between gentle push and max push but I didn't measure the rpm with a strobe). Then I checked the display. The TE and TE1 values at rest were both 76 (Nm?) and I was wondering whether they were as expected. Some of the torque values mentioned in this thread suggest these are similar to 'normal' values for TE/TE1 at rest.
The 'power assist' function didn't do anything for me when I turned the crank by hand while holding the motor up in the air. This could be because the speed sensor wasn't quite active (although connected to the motor, it was sitting idle on the bench and wasn't sending any pulse without the magnet passing in front of it).

So far I haven't connected the e-brake cables to VLCD5 but they also need to be tested. With proper installation, if and when it works, I'll check the TE and TE1 values at load. Will also try to verify whether TE and TE1 symbols are mixed up (for current and initial values of torque ) as observed by @grecoa.

I guess it would be useful to have a full range of pre-installation tests and sort out nominal values. Please feel free to suggest which other tests I should include in the test suite.

 

[Richdog22]

Sorry to resurrect an older post but this is one of the few places where I could find someone with an issue earliy similar to mine. Are you by chance using brake sensors? I have been able to narrow down the issue to the brake sensor and handles included with my kit (vlcd5). Initially starting is great. Come to a stop with brakes, downshift then immediately pedaling after releasing brake would give me hit or miss assistance. I would have to come to full stop again without brakes depressed and restart again. Or I could also reboot system. Disconnecting brake sensors from display completely fixes the issue. No problems at all.

I would like to use the brake sensors, does anyone have a potential fix for this issue?

Thanks

Richard

 

[Woosh]

the sockets on the VLCD5 are not foolproof.
I have once inadvertently pushed the brake sensor in wrongly myself. I did not kill anything but got an error message. I think I was lucky.
having the brake sensor in the wrong way can still let the motor start.
The simple way to find out if your levers are still good is to borrow a known good brake lever to test.

 

[Richdog22]

the sockets on the VLCD5 are not foolproof.
I have once inadvertently pushed the brake sensor in wrongly myself. I did not kill anything but got an error message. I think I was lucky.
having the brake sensor in the wrong way can still let the motor start.
The simple way to find out if your levers are still good is to borrow a known good brake lever to test.

I have seated and reseated the brake sensors. They work everytime to kill the motor. I don't think the connection is an issue. With the sensors plugged in I am able to reproduce the sputtering and intermittent power issue. With them unplugged the motor works flawlessly and i am unable to reproduce the issue.

Maybe I will try one or the other brake sensors plugged in alone maybe narrow it down to one of the brake sensors.

Richard

 

[Woosh]

Maybe I will try one or the other brake sensors plugged in alone maybe narrow it down to one of the brake sensors.

yes, do that. Hall sensors sometimes become intermittently faulty. I see this symptom often in thumb throttles where it's easy to detect because the faulty throttle becomes erratic.

 

[DouglasXK]

I took one of these things apart and I thought they were just a simple micro switch and did not require 3 conductors. They can be adjusted; the brake handle depresses the, what I think to be microswitch. The switch might be on the cusp of making contact and with vibration etc etc. I do have a box full of these things as all my bikes have hydraulic brakes. If you want a pair let me know (they’re worthless to me).

 

[Nothing2SeeHere]

Hi, I tried a lot with the sensor but no result. In the meantime I sent a message to maker who advised that this setting cannot be changed... I have two motors, one with setting 75 and one with 98 as per attached.
The one with 75 rides just fine. The one with 98 needs some extra power while pedalling which does not make it so fun to ride.

I don't suppose anyone has come across a way of resetting the torque sensor? Mine shows 115-118 on startup (max I can get is about 130 by jumping on the pedals so not a huge range). Fairly convinced this is the problem I'm having (same symptoms as others report here).

 

[Nothing2SeeHere]

In case anyone is having the same problems in the future, I have an idea of what my problem might be. I am getting different torque settings in the rE1 settings menus (called TE1 earlier) depending on the way the crank is set when I turn on. If I rotate the chain side crank horizontal and to the front, I get a value of 109. If I rotate the left crank horizontal and to the front then I get a setting of 119.

As long as I turn on with a low(er) value of torque setting (e.g. chain pedal forwards) then I seem to be able to get motor power and ride.

List of things I checked along the way:-
- Speed sensor (Tsdz2 will work with this unplugged so unplugged to try)
- 6km walk mode. Check this worked as this confirms the battery has enough voltage to power the bike at low speeds
- Checked no pins were broken\bent in the controller cable.

It appears that it is possible to calibrate the torque sensor but its an entire strip down and reassembly of the unit and I'm a little reticent to start on a new unit.

Any ideas what I might have installed wrong to get differing values on the torque sensor (no load on the pedals) depending upon which position they are set at?