KT E Bike conversion kit

harrys

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Dec 1, 2016
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I think you only need a 15A KT controller to run a mobility chair. Use a 24V controller too. The nice thing about KT units is that if you buy the right KT display, you can further limit the current to 7A to keep the speed manageable,

The motor and electronics are trivial. What will take your inventive skills will be making the vehicle steerable.
 

madhouse

Finding my (electric) wheels
Feb 9, 2024
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Next question to add to my list.

Can you set up dual throttle controlls? Eg given this is a wheelchair could my son have one and once he get to tried could there be one on the push handle that mum and dad could use.
 

saneagle

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Oct 10, 2010
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Just wanted to say thanks again for the advice from this form.

Some really interesting ideas that could well save me a fortune and perhaps make a better solution.

I like the brake sensor idea that was suggest.

I also read around that some of these can use a cruse control so you don;t have to keep your thumb on the throttle. THat sort of think tied in with a brake sensor could actualy work quite well in the case of my son's condition.
I advise not to use the cruise control because it's too umpredicatble. It doesn't engage when you want it and does engage when you don't, which can be quite dangerous. It would be much better to use a normal throttle with the spring removed.

You can have more than one throttle if you put all three wires in parallel. Whichever one has the highest signal will take precedence.
 
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madhouse

Finding my (electric) wheels
Feb 9, 2024
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The motor and electronics are trivial. What will take your inventive skills will be making the vehicle steerable.
Well steering it take care off already. Essentially I'm trying to add the e kit part to one of these and save some money.

 

guerney

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Sep 7, 2021
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Well steering it take care off already. Essentially I'm trying to add the e kit part to one of these and save some money.

I'd like one of those, and I'm not even disabled.

Here's a push motor, but one of the experts will have to advise as to whether it's likely to be any good.



I've often wondered whether a pull motor like this on a folding wheelchair could be modified for higher speed, number plated, fitted with indicators etc. and somehow approved for road use:


 

saneagle

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The problem with front wheel drive, like in that last photo, is that you can't get sufficient traction. The force on the tyre's contact patch will be more than double what you get on a bicycle, so the wheel will tend to spin, and on a steep incline it might not get enough traction to pull you up the hill. You can mitigate it a bit by mounting the battery as far forward as possible, and you can add dead weight to improve it further. It'll probably be OK on tarmac an concrete, but you'll have to see how it behaves on gravel.

The rear wheel arrangement works better because traction increases when there's an incline, while as it's the opposite with front wheel drive.
 

madhouse

Finding my (electric) wheels
Feb 9, 2024
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I have friend with a front wheel drive add on and yes wheels spins and stuggles on up hill roads. Although her unit can do something like 20mph it is very fast too fast if you ask me.
 

madhouse

Finding my (electric) wheels
Feb 9, 2024
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You can have more than one throttle if you put all three wires in parallel. Whichever one has the highest signal will take precedence.
Ah That sound interesting. My use case is that in some cases we would end up pushing and controlling the whole thing.
Could you put a switch selector so you could choose which one was passing through the signal
 

madhouse

Finding my (electric) wheels
Feb 9, 2024
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The rear push ones are not compatiable with the chair we have.

Getting so many idea on here and at a fraction of the price.

For a complete novice like me something like this might work as posted before with all the bit minus a battery. https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B08YN521RL?ref=emc_s_m_5_i_n&th=1

Is that motor any good? Are they all much the same an the bit that make the difference at the controllers etc.

Did have one question about the kit it seem to come with brake leavers and I was not sure how those would fit or can the cables and sensors just be removed and put on the brakes ihave on the chair.
 

saneagle

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Oct 10, 2010
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Ah That sound interesting. My use case is that in some cases we would end up pushing and controlling the whole thing.
Could you put a switch selector so you could choose which one was passing through the signal
Yes, before we had modern controllers with nice pedal assist functions, I did exactly that for a DIY cruise control system. All you need is a three pole two way switch. You connect the two signal wires to the outer poles and send the inner pole to the controller.

Here it is in post 13 of this thread:

And my original post here:
 

thelarkbox

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Aug 23, 2023
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Did have one question about the kit it seem to come with brake leavers and I was not sure how those would fit or can the cables and sensors just be removed and put on the brakes ihave on the chair.
Not quite, for hydraulic brakes the glue on sensor and magnet is the way to go you may find integrated sensors/brake levers for hydraulic brakes but they are not 'main stream' afaik. most kit suppliers will offer the option for hydraulic brakes but ship the mechanical cable levers/sensors as standard.
 

harrys

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Dec 1, 2016
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The KT controller's throttle input looks for a voltage between .8V and 4.2V, As you go toward 4 V, you approach full throttle. Most throttle controls use a hall sensor chip which reads a rotating magnet to control the voltage, The advantage is that there are no moving electrical parts like there would be in a potentiometer (rheostat), and it uses hardly any power.

You could use two resistors to divide the voltage out of the throttle, and lower it to a max speed you determine by ohm;s law and the resistor values. Then add a switch to cut the resistors out and you would have full voltage,

cutaway.jpg
 
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madhouse

Finding my (electric) wheels
Feb 9, 2024
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So finally got to measuring up the dimentions of the fork that will take the hub motor and it seem it is too small not by much the hub motors i have seen all require 98mm and fork on the chair only has 95mm. I could posisble get by.

The bigger issue is theholes for the axel. These need to be 10mm and the current ones are only 8mm so I'd need to ream them out which I'm less confident about doing.

I think the manufacturer has changed the design for the hub motor wheel as they supply a new fork.