My New Build

[saneagle]

To add to the above, I just read the email from Yose Power (Joey) again and his actual words were, "I think it will fit" (the 2.0 tyre).

To be fair to Yose Power, their service has been very good.

Yes. I've bought stuff from them and been impressed with the service.

Chinese 20" wheels are always 406mm, but it's just as well to check. I converted a Raleigh 20 that had 251mm rims and rim brakes. 45mm difference is massive. Unfortunately, I didn't realise the problem until the wheel was built the first time with a 406mm rim. The brake wouldn't adjust that far and it didn't look right with odd sized wheels. I couldn't get a ready built motor wheel in that size, so I had to get a bare motor and build my own wheel. I also had to rebuild the rear wheel to match, and it had SA 3-speed gears with a dynohub, so the spokes were different on each side.

Before:


After (11 years ago before we had nice batteries):

 

[Tony1951]

Indeed you can.

However I don't own a Bafang, so I prefer to make my own labels (saneagle gave me some help with that).

Here's the label I made for my MXUS on my other bike:

That is a brilliant solution.

Much kudos for that.

Looks totally professional.

 

[Waspy]

Yes. I've bought stuff from them and been impressed with the service.

Chinese 20" wheels are always 406mm, but it's just as well to check. I converted a Raleigh 20 that had 251mm rims and rim brakes. 45mm difference is massive. Unfortunately, I didn't realise the problem until the wheel was built the first time with a 406mm rim. The brake wouldn't adjust that far and it didn't look right with odd sized wheels. I couldn't get a ready built motor wheel in that size, so I had to get a bare motor and build my own wheel. I also had to rebuild the rear wheel to match, and it had SA 3-speed gears with a dynohub, so the spokes were different on each side.

Before:
View attachment 64014

After (11 years ago before we had nice batteries):
View attachment 64015

I don't know what you did for a living before you retired but you should have worked as chief mechanic for a professional cycling team or worked in R&D for a quality ebike company. Now you use all your knowledge to give advice to idiots on an obscure eBike forum. I include myself as one of those idiots by the way. I does make me chuckle mind, when some noob starts arguing with your advice, like they know better. I don't know where you find the patience.

 

[guerney]

To add to the above, I just read the email from Yose Power (Joey) again and his actual words were, "I think it will fit" (the 2.0 tyre).

You might have already seen this Schwalbe chart:

 

[Waspy]

So another day in paradise, now I've proved that the motor works, it's time to strip all the electrics off the Carrera (bar the motor) and put them back on my Trek.


First thing I did was check the front disc which I used in haste yesterday from my box of bits and it was causing me problems. It is a Hayes disc, therefore the original from my Trek, which means it is 23 years old, I checked it out and it is out of true, also notice the wear marks, time for the scrap bin. So I fitted the original disc that came with the Carrera. All is now good in the front brake world.

Also, does anyone know where to obtain these oblong washers? Used on Hailong battery cradles, I can't find any anywhere.

So I fitted the Rust-O-Matic magnetic gadget which is how the two folded halves of the bike stay together. I smeared some grease on them.

I noticed that when it comes to removing the axle nuts on the front wheel, they undo pretty easily, even if I've done them up pretty tight. On closer inspection I noticed the flanges on the nuts were preventing the nut fitting inside the lips on the fork drop-outs (are these what they call 'Lawyers Lips'?) So I have fitted the nuts in reverse for now to solve the problem. But it looks shite and I can no longer use the rubber boots to cover the nuts so now I need some plain nuts as replacements. Any recommendations? I guess they are M12?

I said in an earlier post that the front drop-outs were nearly horizontal, that's not quite true, they are more like 45 degrees, I have tried to improve the drip loop (that cable tie is a temporary measure).

So now she waits, front motor attached, just waiting for my package from Top Bike Parts.

Edited to add: I also fitted my home-made label to try and keep Plod off my back.

 

[saneagle]

You should file the drop-outs deeper until the axle is central to the dimples, then fit a 12x20 mm washer and check that it sits completely within the dimple. That will allow you to fit the nut correctly and a torque arm on one side. Be very careful that nothing overlaps the dimple even a small amount or else the drop-out will pop when you tighten the nut. You're lucky that didn't happen already.

 

[Waspy]

You should file the drop-outs deeper until the axle is central to the dimples, then fit a 12x20 mm washer and check that it sits completely within the dimple. That will allow you to fit the nut correctly and a torque arm on one side. Be very careful that nothing overlaps the dimple even a small amount or else the drop-out will pop when you tighten the nut. You're lucky that didn't happen already.

Wow, that's good advice. Thank you. I shall make this my top priority. The last thing I want to do is plant my face into a tarmac surface.

 

[Waspy]

You should file the drop-outs deeper until the axle is central to the dimples, then fit a 12x20 mm washer and check that it sits completely within the dimple. That will allow you to fit the nut correctly and a torque arm on one side. Be very careful that nothing overlaps the dimple even a small amount or else the drop-out will pop when you tighten the nut. You're lucky that didn't happen already.

Also, do I need a torque arm on steel forks and and a 250w motor?

 

[Waspy]

You should file the drop-outs deeper until the axle is central to the dimples, then fit a 12x20 mm washer and check that it sits completely within the dimple. That will allow you to fit the nut correctly and a torque arm on one side. Be very careful that nothing overlaps the dimple even a small amount or else the drop-out will pop when you tighten the nut. You're lucky that didn't happen already.

OK, so I've just checked my washer collection, believe it or not I have 12x19 but no 12x20. I am struggling to find any on eBay. Do you have any links?

Also, I filed my drop-outs like I normally do. Flat file for the sides, rat tail for the bottom, but I think I need a fatter rat tail file.

 

[Benjahmin]

In always use a torque arm for peace of mind. I have used several of these because of their adaptability.

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[saneagle]

Also, do I need a torque arm on steel forks and and a 250w motor?

I forgot that. If they're steel, it would explain why the drop-outs didn't pop. Test with a magnet to be sure. No need for a torque arm if they're steel.

Steel forks are not so critical as the drop-outs won't pop like aluminium ones do. File them a bit deeper and check whether the flange of the nut fits into the dimple. If it does, don't fit washers. The flange gives better friction to resist the motors torque.

 

[Waspy]

I forgot that. If they're steel, it would explain why the drop-outs didn't pop. Test with a magnet to be sure. No need for a torque arm if they're steel.

Steel forks are not so critical as the drop-outs won't pop like aluminium ones do. File them a bit deeper and check whether the flange of the nut fits into the dimple. If it does, don't fit washers. The flange gives better friction to resist the motors torque.

Good stuff, thanks.

The first thing I did when I went to buy the bike was try a magnet on the forks.

 

[saneagle]

Good stuff, thanks.

The first thing I did when I went to buy the bike was try a magnet on the forks.

Sorry to have worried you.

 

[Waspy]

Sorry to have worried you.

Mate, no apologies needed