Oxydrive kits

[anotherkiwi]

They want me to join or something don't want to join I don't ride often with my GPS the battery on my tablet is three years old. Oh and my camera battery has packed it in and I checked my unused Nokia mobile phone and... swollen battery...

 

[silles]

First post here in the forum, i have successfully converter my 2011 Rockhopper, wasn't easy but worked out at the end, to little annoyances:

1. When i plug the charger into the battery sometimes it makes a big spark, is this normal ? also what is the correct sequence to connect the charger, sorry but the manual is not so good.

2. Sometimes getting like a half second hesitation from the pedal assistance - the motor stops pulling for a split second during acceleration, the amp display drops from 4-5 bars to 0 than goes back. PAS sensor seems to be fine at least the light is flashing when i pedal, i have no speed limit set, so it cannot be that. I use ECO mode with 4-5 PAS.

Anyone noticed the same?

Cheers

 

[flecc]

1. When i plug the charger into the battery sometimes it makes a big spark, is this normal ? also what is the correct sequence to connect the charger, sorry but the manual is not so good.

Try plugging into the mains last/switching on mains last, that will avoid any arcing at thr batery contact interface. I've never found that causes any harm on any e-bike batteries I've used.

2. Sometimes getting like a half second hesitation from the pedal assistance - the motor stops pulling for a split second during acceleration,

One of the most common causes of this is momentary loss of battery contact when the bike is jolting when moving, so try cleaning the battery and bike contacts and ensure they have a tight grip.

Another frequent cause is a pedelec sensor gap a bit too large, the sensor and disc etc should be very close.
.

 

[silles]

Try plugging into the mains last/switching on mains last, that will avoid any arcing at thr batery contact interface. I've never found that causes any harm on any e-bike batteries I've used.


One of the most common causes of this is momentary loss of battery contact when the bike is jolting when moving, so try cleaning the battery and bike contacts and ensure they have a tight grip.

Another frequent cause is a pedelec sensor gap a bit too large, the sensor and disc etc should be very close.
.

1. Thanks will try to connect last on mains
2. I already checked all connections and they seem fine. if it was battery wouldn't the LCD turn off as well?

might be the sensor, because i had cut out and file the middle and glue it
it's slightly off, the gap varies between 0mm to 3mm. however when i pedal it flashes for every single magnet - i tried it on the bike rack many times

 

[flecc]

2. I already checked all connections and they seem fine. if it was battery wouldn't the LCD turn off as well?

The display dropping from 4-5 to 0 seems to indicate a momentary loss of current connection though. The LCD might not go right off with a very short loss or reduction of connection but the drop in current could make the motor drive briefly snatch. I've had one bike which suffered the contact quality failing enough to cause some power loss without actually disconnecting.

However, it could also be any of the controller to motor connections suspect. If there's any connectors in the route try unplugging and replugging them. If that improves or worsens the condition you'll know you're on the right track.
.

 

[silles]

The display dropping from 4-5 to 0 seems to indicate a momentary loss of current connection though. The LCD might not go right off with a very short loss or reduction of connection but the drop in current could make the motor drive briefly snatch. I've had one bike which suffered the contact quality failing enough to cause some power loss without actually disconnecting.

However, it could also be any of the controller to motor connections suspect. If there's any connectors in the route try unplugging and replugging them. If that improves or worsens the condition you'll know you're on the right track.
.

thanks, i already reconnected everything, no luck so far.

i lifted the bike and while turing the pedal, tried to move/kick/shake all cables/battery/sensor, no motor cutout. only happens when i cycling. any quite rarely ...

might be luck but did not happen in normal mode so far, only eco.

 

[silles]

thanks, i already reconnected everything, no luck so far.

i lifted the bike and while turing the pedal, tried to move/kick/shake all cables/battery/sensor, no motor cutout. only happens when i cycling. any quite rarely ...

might be luck but did not happen in normal mode so far, only eco.

This definitely happening only in eco mode, had 4x6 miles journeys without a glitch in normal

I noticed that eco never goes above 8 Amps, while normal mode goes up to 12 Amps, maybe eco mode is too eager to cut power to save energy...

thoughts? firmware bug?

 

[silles]

2 questions:

1. in setting what are the magic number when setting wheel size 26", 175, 195 and 210
2. what is BMS stands for on the display?

Cheers

 

[Nealh]

1. 175,195 etc is the tyre width 175 = 1.75", 195 = 1.95" and so forth.
2. Is Battery Management System a pcb in the battery that should prevent battery cell damage during charging or in use thru over current or low current.

 

[silles]

1. 175,195 etc is the tyre width 175 = 1.75", 195 = 1.95" and so forth.
2. Is Battery Management System a pcb in the battery that should prevent battery cell damage during charging or in use thru over current or low current.

Thanks ! I thought it was battery miles
in that case what's the number in front of BMS ? my changes between 40 and 37 BMS

 

[silles]

Thanks ! I thought it was battery miles
in that case what's the number in front of BMS ? my changes between 40 and 37 BMS

duh, ignore me, a V is next to the number not BMS, which is obviously Volt

 

[Nealh]

Andrew has obviously upgraded the kit spec's with a new lcd so this is totally diff from my one, so 40 & 37 is the battery voltage reading. 40 is the battery resting charge left and 37 is the battery voltage under load otherwise known as battery sag, when the power is eased the reading should climb back up.

 

[Planemo]

As tyre width has been mentioned, I found that the 210 setting gave a much closer actual speed despite my tyres being 195. I guess it comes down to the design of the tyre. Mine are Specialized Crossroads which are quite a chunky (tall) tyre despite being only 195 in width. Due to this it would be quite handy if the OD kits allowed users to input an actual rolling circumferance rather then relying on generic widths giving generic tyre heights. I guess they wanted to keep it simple as the 3 options currently available gets us close enough. That said my ancient halfords speedo works on circumferance.

 

[baldylox]

This is all good information as I have an "old" oxydrive kit on my Giant trance (with the old LCD display) and a new kit with the upgraded LCD display (a steal at £499) about to be fitted to a cube hardtail (for Mrs Lox).
The new kit is a 350w so I might use that on the Giant to help lug my heavy load around, I wonder how the tyre width string will affect things apart from accounting for tyre height as I use 2.25 width smart Sam plus which are quite tall.
There are no clues as to the power on the motor, in fact it's identical to my old one bought nearly a year ago (which in an earlier post questioned whether it was a 250w or 350w rating).
When fitted I'll report back with my conclusions.

 

[Planemo]

I would be interested to hear how the difference is with the new C6 LCD Baldy. I have the older one with the 4 buttons integrated into the LCD, the buttons of which I find incredibly hard to push and small to boot. The later unit looks like it has much bigger and 'softer' buttons which combined with it being on a separate flylead should make it easier to place as well. I have actually considered buying one but at £60 I am struggling to justify it despite the potential easier use.

 

[silles]

What kind of ranges are u getting out of this kit?

I don't seem to get more than 30 miles per charge (Normal mode / PAS 5 ), using it for commute in London.

 

[Nealh]

My kit is the HT CST with 13 & 11ah batteries, real time range per battery for me is 40 -45 miles using assist 3 & 4 and occasionally 5 on speed mode 1 cruising up to 18mph. The CST's lcd has speed modes 1 - 3 and each has 6 assist levels.

 

[Planemo]

I dont think that 30 miles on Level 2 assist 5 is far off tbh. Have you got the 13a battery or 11a? On my 11a kit I use Level 3 exclusively, usually assist 3 to 5 and I would expect to get 25 to 30 miles tops but mileage is such a subjective thing as I am sure you will agree. I do tend to use a lot of assistance in general but others here are quite frugal which makes a big difference.

 

[silles]

...

2. Sometimes getting like a half second hesitation from the pedal assistance - the motor stops pulling for a split second during acceleration, the amp display drops from 4-5 bars to 0 than goes back. PAS sensor seems to be fine at least the light is flashing when i pedal, i have no speed limit set, so it cannot be that. I use ECO mode with 4-5 PAS.

Anyone noticed the same?

Cheers

After one month and 250 miles, still getting this hesitation issue...

What I noticed that it only happens between 12 and 13 Mph, for some reason it doesn't like this interval.

Mostly happens uphill in PAS 5/6 when speed is 12-13. Stops for 0.5 sec than pull again, until speed is over 13 or less 12.

Doesn't happen in 1-4 since it never reaches 12 mph

Also noticed that speedo jumps up for no reason (doing constant speed)

any idea?

 

[silles]

I dont think that 30 miles on Level 2 assist 5 is far off tbh. Have you got the 13a battery or 11a? On my 11a kit I use Level 3 exclusively, usually assist 3 to 5 and I would expect to get 25 to 30 miles tops but mileage is such a subjective thing as I am sure you will agree. I do tend to use a lot of assistance in general but others here are quite frugal which makes a big difference.

i have the black 13mAh battery...

today after 22 miles ride, i still have 36.9V and it says 3/4 full. I'm finding this
hard to believe

what is the empty voltage for this battery?