Oxydrive kits

[Deleted member 4366]

Check the battery connections, particularly the female side. There's a lip that gets vapourised if you connect the battery while it's switched on. The debris from that then compromises the connection between the sleeve and the pin.

 

[stevieb]

i have had this problem fixed by oxygen . it may even have been a member off here that fixed it.
as above check the connections between the battery and the bike for any signs of overheating .
i have not connected or disconnected the battery whilst it was switched on but it did develop this problem

 

[OXYDrive]

@ Ian_Fearn & Selrahc1992, if your kits are out of warranty we will still try to help you. Firstly as D8veh says please look at the battery discharge terminals, (the female ones) if there is any sign of vapourised melting. If it lacks connection the error code 06 will show up as lov voltage.

This could be caused by various reasons from connecting under power but also a short which you have had in the past Selrahc1992 so your battery terminal most likely could get slightly damaged and then got worse over time.

If it has a damaged terminal please drop me a line and we can help you sort this out.

All the best

Andrew

 

[Deleted member 4366]

many thanks - very helpful post - mostly the technical part which ill archive for later (ill no doubt need it at some point). It also made me wonder about the warranty - a search of my Hotmail inbox revealed something quite astonishing - an email from Andrew from 1 February last year saying he "couldn't send it but will this week and it will be delivered Tuesday" - by some fluke I am a few days within warranty! Luck, I guess, but next time i will definitely have to boldly take the DIY route you describe

Are you sure that email wasn't about replacement parts that you had. I seem to remember that you burn't out your controller when messing about with the pedal sensor? I have that controller right here in front of me as I type. It's been sitting at the back of my desk since Andrew asked you to send it to me. I thought you did pretty well to get free replacement parts under the circumstances. Nudge, nudge; wink, wink; say no more, say no more!

 

[baldylox]

I finally got the opportunity to get out for a proper ride with the missus on her newly converted Cube with an oxydrive CST HT install.
She had been reluctant to go out in the wind and rain (who'd blame her?) so we got our for a gentle afternoon ride.
She was impressed with the way her Cube was transformed but wasn't so keen on the extra weight at first. Not such an issue now as the weight distribution and balance are superb, especially when we got off road into the woods.

The Cube alongside my Giant before we hit the mud!

 

[bigearsbilly]

Started my build up. Waiting for my handlebars . Something else I've forgot I think
Er...

 

[Planemo]

After "upgrading" to the new C6 LCD with remote buttons (mounted near to left hand grip) I can confirm that these are a far superior set up to the old LCD unit (now relegated to Mrs LOX's Cube build). The display is easier to read, set up and change settings on the go. Also get a better idea of battery state (BMS info).

Thanks for coming back with your thoughts Baldy. It does indeed sound like a worthwhile mod. Maybe when I am feeling flush I will lever open the wallet to invest in one. Cheers.

 

[daniele]

Hi all,
I am new to this forum and I think it is really great, lot of questions from many people and everybody keen to share knowledge!
First of all a big thanks to D8veh, you have given to me so many useful hints, really appreciate
I have completed the installation of a front wheel kit from Oxydrive, not so easy (may be because of the kind of bike) but I am quite happy about it.
Unfortunately the front wheel is not really spinning a lot when I stop the motor (see link to my Youtube channel): from full throttle (say 40 km/h) after 4 or 5 seconds it does stop

Any idea why the clutch doesn't seem to work at all ?
thanks

 

[bigearsbilly]

I've got the same kit. So I can give it a try at the weekend. But judging by merely spinning by hand it looks very similar.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

I've fixed one of those motors before that had a jammed clutch. You can test it by turning the wheel slowly in both directions. You can feel when the motor is engaged. it should feel smooth in forward and a little notchy in reverse. If it's the same notchy forward and reverse, the clutch is stuck.

There can be other reasons why the wheel doesn't run freely, like brakes touching and incorrect washer sequence on the axle.

Sometimes, you can fix a jammed clutch by giving the tyre a whack in the forward direction. Try several times to see if it frees. If it doesn't, the sealed clutch has to be replaced, which requires special tools. If it's under warranty, it has to go back to Oxydrive.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

I can confirm that selrahc1992's battery problem is that the connector has been eroded on its outer edge. This happens when you insert the battery into its holder when it's switched on. The capacitors in the controller take a large inrush of current as soon as the connector makes contact. The current is enough to melt the metal on the end of the connector. It only happens when you connect the battery with it switched on. If switched off, no current can flow, so no erosive spark. Once connected, the current is spread over the whole connector, so no spark and no erosion.

I therefore advise people to always make sure that their battery is switched off when connecting. Any battery can suffer damage to the connectors if you don't follow this advice. It's not limited to Oxydrive, though the thin lip on the Oxydrive battery might be less robust to this problem than some others.

Here's the actual connector. See the eroded end.

 

[selrahc1992]

I can confirm that selrahc1992's battery problem is that the connector has been eroded on its outer edge. This happens when you insert the battery into its holder when it's switched on. The capacitors in the controller take a large inrush of current as soon as the connector makes contact. The current is enough to melt the metal on the end of the connector. It only happens when you connect the battery with it switched on. If switched off, no current can flow, so no erosive spark. Once connected, the current is spread over the whole connector, so no spark and no erosion.

I therefore advise people to always make sure that their battery is switched off when connecting. Any battery can suffer damage to the connectors if you don't follow this advice. It's not limited to Oxydrive, though the thin lip on the Oxydrive battery might be less robust to this problem than some others.

Here's the actual connector. See the eroded end.

very helpful, many thanks

 

[daniele]

hi D8veh,
thanks for your hint !
When I try to slowly turn the wheel in both direction, I can feel the engine in the reverse mode and some (very similar) resistance on the way forward. So I am pretty sure that in my case the clutch is stuck.

When you say "I've fixed one of those motors before that had a jammed clutch", is there a procedure I can follow (apart from giving a whack to the tyre) ? Or do you suggest to contact directly Oxydrive to get the "sealed clutch" replaced ?

 

[ptaylor73]

Just before Xmas I bought the CST HT 13Ah kit, fitted within hours onto my cyclocross bike with drop bars. It seems fine to leave the battery on the bike and plug in the charger (after turning the charger on so there isn't much voltage difference between the charger output and the battery, so no inrush current sparking?)

LCD even shows battery voltage if turned on during charging, so no worries about dropping on the battery when it is accidentally left turned on? (easy to do) -- just leave it on the bike?

My bike has Hollowtech-ii, but an hour with a dremel thinned down the centre of the plastic magnet disk to half thickness, so it fits on the non-chain side as-is, without the pedal arm falling off (it's functional anyway, if not as neat as it could be with a "Hollowtech-ii sensor" on the chain side?)

A brilliant kit, I estimated the half charge voltage for the Samsung cells, and kept this much to get me back up Cheddar gorge (an hour walk up otherwise!)

A 50 mile first round trip, with light level-3 assistance other than hills and the odd enthusiastic run towards a pub, the battery lasted me 49 miles before fading out!

I've only connected the pedal sensor so far, no need for emergency stops, so lack of the brake cut-off is not a big problem to me.

(An option to buy a second battery with a 'dummy' frame mount would allow a battery swap 50 miles into a 100 mile trip!)

Bought an electric hook up cable for when camping in the summer.

I've drilled and rivnutted my frame so the battery is held higher up, and so I still have a bottle cage & pump fitted on the seat post bottle cage mount.

Also bought an 18mm cycling spanner in case of punctures (but tube sealant hopefully will avoid?)

Cheers Andrew, a very good kit!

Paul T

 

[baldylox]

Just before Xmas I bought the CST HT 13Ah kit, fitted within hours onto my cyclocross bike with drop bars. It seems fine to leave the battery on the bike and plug in the charger (after turning the charger on so there isn't much voltage difference between the charger output and the battery, so no inrush current sparking?)

LCD even shows battery voltage if turned on during charging, so no worries about dropping on the battery when it is accidentally left turned on? (easy to do) -- just leave it on the bike?

My bike has Hollowtech-ii, but an hour with a dremel thinned down the centre of the plastic magnet disk to half thickness, so it fits on the non-chain side as-is, without the pedal arm falling off (it's functional anyway, if not as neat as it could be with a "Hollowtech-ii sensor" on the chain side?)

A brilliant kit, I estimated the half charge voltage for the Samsung cells, and kept this much to get me back up Cheddar gorge (an hour walk up otherwise!)

A 50 mile first round trip, with light level-3 assistance other than hills and the odd enthusiastic run towards a pub, the battery lasted me 49 miles before fading out!

I've only connected the pedal sensor so far, no need for emergency stops, so lack of the brake cut-off is not a big problem to me.

(An option to buy a second battery with a 'dummy' frame mount would allow a battery swap 50 miles into a 100 mile trip!)

Bought an electric hook up cable for when camping in the summer.

I've drilled and rivnutted my frame so the battery is held higher up, and so I still have a bottle cage & pump fitted on the seat post bottle cage mount.

Also bought an 18mm cycling spanner in case of punctures (but tube sealant hopefully will avoid?)

Cheers Andrew, a very good kit!

Paul T

Sounds like an interesting set up, could you post a picture of your build please? [emoji106]

 

[bigearsbilly]

hi D8veh,
thanks for your hint !
When I try to slowly turn the wheel in both direction, I can feel the engine in the reverse mode and some (very similar) resistance on the way forward. So I am pretty sure that in my case the clutch is stuck.

When you say "I've fixed one of those motors before that had a jammed clutch", is there a procedure I can follow (apart from giving a whack to the tyre) ? Or do you suggest to contact directly Oxydrive to get the "sealed clutch" replaced ?

I have an oxydrive kit too. Mine doesn't freewheel like a normal wheel either but I would expect a motorised wheel to have some drag or am I mistaken?

I haven't hooked it up yet, doing that tomorrow, but I have ridden the bike around the block and it doesn't feel like anything is wrong to me.
It must be unlikely a brand new wheel would have a stuck clutch I would have thought?

 

[bigearsbilly]

Almost finished. Any good ideas on tidying the wiring?

 

[baldylox]

It looks as if you have a lot of excess cabling... I try to route my cabling along with the brake/gear cables with small zip ties around the frame to keep it tidy.
I'm not sure I'd want to cut and join cable to get it to the right length but both my Oxydrive (rear wheel) builds have been pretty good with regards cabling and routing.

 

[bigearsbilly]

I definitely ain't cuttin' nuffink
I've got a load of cable ties. Somewhere.

 

[bigearsbilly]

As a note. The only problem I had was the pedelec sensor didn't have enough clearance betwixt the crank arm and the bottom bracket. So it would not rotate with the crank. So I just filed a little bit off of the crank arm. Probably 1mm or so and it was sorted.