Puncture Repair Kits

[Bernie2]

As the bar ends clamp on the outer part of the bar by an inch at most, can't the throttle grip be moved inward a tad so the bar end won't interfere with the action?

No Wicky, both end grips are of fairly solid material and have closed ends, especially the throttle and I really dont want to mess around with them but thanks for your input.

 

[Bernie2]

You see that bell on the handlebar? I have one and I use it to stop the LCD from hitting the ground when upside down. You could have one each side....

Hello Mike. I have a bell on mine also but but I would hate to rely on it to rest my bike on when messing around with a puncture. So far the best idea has come from Flecc with his balls (no comment please) or some form of inflatable cushion which I am going to look into.

 

[Bernie2]

If your bars have any bent at all then just slack off the bolts and twist the bars up and pinch the bolts up. The bike rests on the handlebar ends and all the stuff on them is off the ground.

I always carry some Allen keys and it only takes a moment. With the quick handle bar adjustment on many bikes you don't even need a tool to twist them up.

Hello John. I am sorry to be a party pooper this afternoon but the mechanism that holds the handlebars to the front upright is encased by the plastic electrics cover and I would not want to dismantle it to get to the nuts. However, as I replied to Fleccs post, his idea of an inflatable cushion or a couple of beach type balls partially inflated might be better than nothing, so I intend to follow that idea, unless something else turns up.

 

[RobF]

Upending a bike to fix a puncture is a bit infra-dig in some roadie circles - one should be able to remove the wheel with the bike upright.

Not so easy with a heavy ebike.

I have bar ends on the Rose, so can upend without damage.

But if it came to it, I might try to remove the rear wheel with the bike on its side, having first removed the nuts, disconnected the hub cable, removed the outer cable from the flimsy bit of metal it's attached to on the hub, and removed the chain tensioner.

Not that removing the rear wheel is a faff, you understand.

 

[flecc]

There's always this way which I use on the road if changing a tube, and I've even used it for fitting a thick Marathon Plus Tyre.

This one is an alloy frame, but you do it at your own risk!

.

 

[bazwaldo]

I used a couple of the Lidl puncture repair cannisters on a puncture but sadly each one only lasted about 50 metres before the tyre deflated again.
I replaced the inner tube then but as flecc said the tube gunk does mess up the inside of the tyre and needed to be wiped out.
Overall my experience was enough to convince me they cannot be relied on.
On my Bearprint Ebike I have just fitted a brand new pair of Schwalbe Marathon Plus tyres thinking puncture prevention is better than cure!
The first pair of MP+tyres did a great job apart from a nail going through one only after about 1 month of use - what rotten luck!
I posted a photo of this previously on the forum, with a 0.25 inch split in the sidewall this caused several punctures where the tube was forced through the split even though I tried to block it with tyre patches.
Here is a link to the photo:-

http://www.pedelecs.co.uk/forum/threads/had-a-puncture-recently-on-schwalbe-marathon-plus.6943/#post-147777

I don't expect to have such bad luck with my new MP+ tyres.
They wear well too with about 14,000 miles done on the originals.

Barry.

 

[Bernie2]

Before I fitted bar ends for this purpose I had an idea to cope with this. A couple of beach inflatable balls slightly blown up will make two cushions to go under each side of the bars, better than nothing,

They are very cheap, see this link
.

Hi Flecc.

After my last reply to you, I tried to think of an alternative to the beach ball/cushion idea and then a bolt of lightening hit me - why not use pipe insulation which is extremely light but strong enough to take the weight of my bike. I found out that B&Q do a 1 metre length with a 22mm inner hole with 25mm all round insulation, although all I need is 2 x 6" sections to cover the grips. Although the 22mm is a bit small to slide over the grips, if you open up the split section, it clips over them very tightly. All I have to do is swivel the bell and gear changer under the h/bar which means the 25mm insulation is more than enough to protect the plastic electrics cover including both grips - the cost just £2.60. If I need to raise the h/bars any higher off the ground, all I need do is to cut another 6" section, divide them in two to use as packers. The whole kit weighs just a few grams and will easily go in my panniers.

I just thought I would pass this on to the Forum members who like you, took the trouble to respond to my original query. Thanks, all of you for your help.

Bernie

 

[RobF]

You could also stuff the pipe insulation in the tyre if your puncture repair fails.

Not an entirely flippant suggestion, I saw a roadie get going again with a tyre stuffed with grass pulled from the roadside.

 

[flecc]

Hi Flecc.

After my last reply to you, I tried to think of an alternative to the beach ball/cushion idea and then a bolt of lightening hit me - why not use pipe insulation which is extremely light but strong enough to take the weight of my bike.

.
Good idea Bernie, simple and cheap like all the best ideas.
.