Setting a Standard?

eTim

Esteemed Pedelecer
Nov 19, 2009
607
2
Andover, Hants.
Unfortunately, taking all the variable's into account only serve's to complicate.
If all ebike's were tested under the exact same average conditions, keeping all the variable's to preset figure's, eg, weight, speed, terrain, 0 wind, temperature and battery Ah etc. Wouldn't that at least give an informative judgement of each ebike's ability or is it not as simple as, the best performer under average conditions, would be the better all rounder?
Couldn't this then be applied to different catagories of ebike such as, folder, tourer or offroad etc to come up with best of class.
I thought it would be relatively simple to set a standard, maybe not?
To me this would provide a baseline for each vehicle from which a consumer could make judgements based on his or her own set of personal circumstances and anticipated riding conditions.

It would also provide a benchmark for future battery/motor/controller/bike design improvements so that the subsequent iterations of the same vehicle could be measured against the original baseline showing where and how improvements have been made (or not).

I think this would be beneficial to the manufacturers and consumers alike and it would be worth the initial time/effort/money to set it up and refine it. Especially if there is to be a UK trade body (BEBA?) representing UK ebike manufacturers.
 

Bob_about

Pedelecer
Nov 17, 2009
113
1
Warks/Glos Border
Not all consumers visit this forum!

Whilst we all agree there are many variable and any standard measurements would not reflect what would be achieved on every ride, the establishment of an agreed set of baseline figures has got to be good for the consumer who is currently faced with a bewildering range of statements and claims.

The car analogy is a good one as the figures quoted are all measured using the same tests which allows comparison. When I chose my current car the stated consumption was one of a number of factors which helped me decide.

The stated combined consumption for my 130bhp 1.9td Passatt estate is 47mpg.
With four kayaks strapped to the roof, 4 fat blokes strapped into the seats, a boot area full of wet kit, and a strong desire to get back from North Wales to the midlands in time for last orders we can get that down to nearer 30.
With just myself and an obsessive interest in the max possible, fully pumped tyres, gentle use of the throttle and coasting downhill I have managed over a 12 mile run to get this up to 67mpg - yes 67mpg in a heavy diesel estate!

As a consumer I am perfectly aware that stated figures are achieved under set conditions, and I know my approach to driving and using the car will have a direct and significant impact on what I actually achieve - traffic jams, steep hills and an enthusiastic right foot are the worst things affecting averages as anyone who has obsessively watched their figures will know.

I would predict people who buy e-bikes are similarly intelligent and will accept that stated ranges via a standard test are a guide and impacted on by similar variables.

The point here is that there is no currently agreed standard test which leaves manufactures free to publish claims which may have been arrived at by any means - we just dont know.

Those who are reasonable will publish their methods, suppliers who are helpful will discuss this with you, but at present there is no consistency or agreed approach. (I was very surprised to find my early discussions with Andrew at OnBike were steering me away from my beliefs that certain bikes would get me certain distances cos I`d read it on the web so it had to be true - thanks again for the reality checks there Andrew)

In the interim, could it not at least be agreed that all stick with standard advice that an "average" user will consume 10-15 Watt Hours per mile with a 37v 250w direct drive hub motor?

It worries me that people not reading this forum could easily see a claim of a 60 mile range (not all websites even have the caveat staing dependent on rider input, weight and terrain) and buy something quite unsuitable to their needs and expectations.

It really cannot be that difficult to devise and agree something everyone could subscribe to - can it?! Surely it would be better to come up with a voluntary code which reputable manufacturers could subscribe to. The current approach leaves the unwary facing a lottery in making a decision and thats not good for any industry looking for a longer term future.

All the best for the weekend

Bob_about
 
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flecc

Member
Oct 25, 2006
53,571
30,857
The car analogy is a good one as the figures quoted are all measured using the same tests which allows comparison. When I chose my current car the stated consumption was one of a number of factors which helped me decide.

In the interim, could it not at least be agreed that all stick with standard advice that an "average" user will consume 10-15 Watt Hours per mile with a 37v 250w direct drive hub motor?

It really cannot be that difficult to devise and agree something everyone could subscribe to - can it?!

Bob_about
I'm afraid the car analogy isn't relevant Bob, also sticking to the standard you suggest doesn't get near to matching the real world situation and I'm afraid it is that difficult to devise a standard, indeed it's impossible.

Our bikes are human. electric hybrids, so not comparable to other vehicles and impossible to measure.

See what I posted on this a few days ago on this subject to read that detail.
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Wisper Bikes

Trade Member
Apr 11, 2007
6,320
2,283
70
Sevenoaks Kent
Battery only

Maybe we are approaching this from the wrong angle.

Push bike manufacturers do not advertise how many W a cyclist needs to produce to move their bike over a set distance, so why are we trying to do the same?

It is a given in the main stream cycle industry that bikes that weigh less and have thin tyres and very good bearings will take less effort to propel than a heavier bike with suspension and big tyres. However not everyone rushes out to buy a light weight racing bike as other factors come into the bike buying equation.

Flecc has already commented, an electric bike is a hi bred of human and motor power, as far as I can see everyone has agreed that point. Surely then we do not need to take the "bike" element into consideration.

Would it be useful to test all bikes on a flat smooth indoor surface with exactly the same weight on the bike, with tyres pumped to the manufacturers recommendations and let it run at 25kph under throttle only? All bikes should be able to be set up to do this.

OK this test will not give accurate real world results but will let the prospective buyer know exactly how much help they will get from the electric bike part of a hi bred vehicle based on the weight and rolling resistance of the bike style they choose.

All the best

David
 

flecc

Member
Oct 25, 2006
53,571
30,857
Would it be useful to test all bikes on a flat smooth indoor surface with exactly the same weight on the bike, with tyres pumped to the manufacturers recommendations and let it run at 25kph under throttle only? All bikes should be able to be set up to do this.

David
I agree one simple standard would be best David, but true pedelecs rule this out, no throttle and a rider necessary to provide the torque input to give a corresponding power out. The Panasonic, Yamaha and Sunstar units typify this, and shortly all bikes will be pedelecs anyway.

Since the rider input determines the power output on these bikes, the rider and all the variables entailed cannot be excluded.

The only partial way out of this would be a standard jig to apply standardised pedal pressure strokes to these systems on a fixed standard resistance rolling road, but even then it would only be comparing this type with each other but not with throttle bikes. Possible once all throttles finally disappear as they will in time.
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Wisper Bikes

Trade Member
Apr 11, 2007
6,320
2,283
70
Sevenoaks Kent
I agree Tony

In the mean time we do need a standard of some sorts to curb the enthusiasm of those amongst us who are prone to exageration! :cool:

All the best

David
 

NRG

Esteemed Pedelecer
Oct 6, 2009
2,592
10
In the mean time we do need a standard of some sorts to curb the enthusiasm of those amongst us who are prone to exageration!

That's a different matter entirely! ;)
 

Patrick

Esteemed Pedelecer
Feb 9, 2009
303
1
As an alternative to estimating the range of a bike how about quoting the energy available for propulsion from the motor in calories (well killocalories which are colloquially called "calories"), which would depend on the capacity of the batteries and the efficiency of the the bikes motor and drive system?

If you then estimated the energy required for an unassisted ride using something like this, Calories Burned Cycling - Free Calories Burned Calculator
you could then use the number quoted for the bike to estimate how much easier it would make the ride.

So a bike with 1000 kCal available would let you do 1000 kcal worth of riding without pedaling or 2000 kCal work of riding with the rider matching the motor's input.
 

Fecn

Esteemed Pedelecer
Sep 28, 2008
491
2
Warlingham, Surrey
Just knowing the Calories or Watt-hours available doesn't tell you how far you get though. I have a rubbish chinese clone full suspension bike with chunky tyres and a 360Watt-hour battery which can manage about 10 miles on a good day. It suffers from the 'peadaling air' effect where the pedalec sensor detects you're moving the pedals and turns on the motor which then accelerates you away with zero effort from the pedals. As soon as the motor kicks in, the pedals are effectively useless (apart from keeping the pedelec sensor triggered). As soon as the battery runs out on that bike, it is sluggish and heavy and no fun to ride at all.

On the flip side, I also have a Panasonic-system bike with a 260Watt-hour battery using their fancy torque/speed sensing technology. The bike far more closely mimics the effort I put in, and there is no pedalling air effect. As such, I always contribute a reasonable amount of effort.

The problem with measuring either of the bikes is that the energy available from the human varies depending on how quickly it is needed. My body can sustain around 100Watts of energy output pretty much indefinitely (going for a 10-mile walk etc), so on a bike which needs a resaonable contribution from the rider, I'll get a long long range. However, I suspect I could only sustain 200watts of human effort for about 30 mins before I wanted a break, and when the battery runs out on my rubbish bike, it needs at least 200watts of human power to move it. So.. I put in more overall effort on the panasonic system, but never get worn out, whereas on the rubbish bike, I put in nearly zero effort until the battery runs out, but then quickly run out of energy myself soon after.

... and then of course... there's the whole issue of pedaling cadence too. On my rubbish bike, if I upped my cadence so I wasn't pedalling-air then it would go further... but on the panasonic systems, high cadences result in the system reducing the power output.

And that's all before we mention energy lost in suspension componenets when going over bumps etc.
 
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Bob_about

Pedelecer
Nov 17, 2009
113
1
Warks/Glos Border
I'm afraid the car analogy isn't relevant Bob, also sticking to the standard you suggest doesn't get near to matching the real world situation and I'm afraid it is that difficult to devise a standard, indeed it's impossible.

Our bikes are human. electric hybrids, so not comparable to other vehicles and impossible to measure.

See what I posted on this a few days ago on this subject to read that detail.
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OK Flecc – so you think my analogy is irrelevant – I`ll not take that personally! Thanks for directing me to your earlier posts - I had read them previously and I understand what you are writing.

The car anaology works for me and I thought I`d share. The point I was trying to make was that a standard baseline is helpful, even though I appreciate real world performance will not be the same thing – it least I know all cars have been tested the same way. I am happy with the fact I get between 30 and 60+ mpg depending on how I use the car.

I am similarly happy I can almost use up both my batteries on a 40 mile commute, or have over three quarters their capacity left depending on the route I choose, the weight I carry, the speed I set the dial assist to and the amount I peddle.

That’s not what is being debated – the point is the industry has not got itself sorted enough to agree how to publish claims about the performance of its product so the consumer can be assured they are comparing like figures with like figures for that part of their decision.

For me, just sticking with battery voltage and amp hours is not enough – the same engine and fuel in different cars leads to different performance; the same battery on a Wisper and an Ezee will perform differently as the motors draw voltage differently, the controllers are different and so are many of the components which make up the bike.

I know they are different, but when I rode them both back to back it was very difficult to tell from a test ride which accelerated best, which delivered power the smoothest, which was drawing most power from the battery.

With bikes so similar my decision making then came down to other factors than just range. Just as my car purchase was not solely based on the engine size and mpg - obviously the colour was important too !! (sorry, about another car mention)

I've always seen two major and insurmountable problems with e-bike track testing for range:

1) Rider input will vary and substantially alter what is achieved.

2) Rider effort power applying torque measuring systems can multiply the diferences in rider ability.

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I think this is why some of the earlier posts are advocating replacing the rider and the road with “artificial devices” to remove the variation - make sense to me.

When I reviewed the Kalkhoff Agattu as a possible Lafree replacement for my website, I carefully spelled out the varying ranges realisable according to rider, terrain and rider intentions and circumstances with this paragraph:

It seems to me that a free rolling bike like this with it's very long range battery gives considerable flexibility. An owner in average territory who has settled on a easy to get range of, lets say, 35 miles (56 km), could at any time extend that by 10 or 15 miles (16 to 24 km) if the need arose since the additional cycling effort would be so small. It's always very difficult to predict ranges for others, but with power left on most of the time, and across the spectrum from rather heavy rider with hills, to very fit regular cyclist in easy territory, ranges should span from 30 to 50 miles. Using the handlebar Off button more often when the going is easy will add to those in proportion to the rider's fitness.

I can't really improve on that. A to B magazine on exactly the same bike said 30 to 46 miles.
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This a good example of the problem – one view, from Flecc says 30 to 50 miles, another from A to B magazine says 30 to 46. Even for the same bike, no consistency as there is no agreed way to arrive at a figure to publish.

Personal reviews will always be subject to personal circumstances and opinions and they are good to read and enjoy – indeed I plan to write some myself when I have a few hundred more miles under my belt (currently covered around 320 miles).

However, such personal views could be usefully augmented by a standard set of figures. At present we have an industry which relies on personal views and supplier claims which are based on a testing criteria which has not been shared

I agree one simple standard would be best David, but true pedelecs rule this out, ……..

……..The only partial way out of this would be a standard jig to apply standardised pedal pressure strokes to these systems on a fixed standard resistance rolling road, but even then it would only be comparing this type with each other but not with throttle bikes. Possible once all throttles finally disappear as they will in time.
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I don’t think “true pedelecs” rule out a standardised test for their performance from the ingenious suggestions already being posted.

I appreciate there are different systems and I would see no problem with a test for pedelec mode (I think all bikes I was looking at had this option, but I am not familiar with all variations available) and then a second set of figures applicable to throttle usage which would only be published for bikes with a throttle option..

I agree Tony

In the mean time we do need a standard of some sorts to curb the enthusiasm of those amongst us who are prone to exaggeration! :cool:

All the best

David
Absolutely - the current lottery of approaches leaves the consumer with a guessing game – to go back to my irrelevant car analogy, would it be acceptable to claim my diesel estate car runs at 67mpg when I come to sell it!

Since starting to look at these bikes, eventually buying one and starting out riding it to work I have been enormously impressed by this small industry which is full of genuine interest and enthusiasm.

I have also been enormously impressed by the way some are so happy to share knowledge and experience, and how Andrew at Onbike has helped me understand the difference between best case scenario claims and the real world.

However, I am the kind of retentive guy who researches a lot before committing money and who generally takes a considered view. Not everyone does this, not everyone comes onto this forum, and some people will believe what a supplier publishes on their website as if they were buying a battery powered torch.

Just because they don’t have the time or ability to wade through the minefield doesn’t mean they shouldn’t have ready access to information they can trust.

Have a good weekend all

Bob_about
 

Patrick

Esteemed Pedelecer
Feb 9, 2009
303
1
Just knowing the Calories or Watt-hours available doesn't tell you how far you get though. I have a rubbish chinese clone full suspension bike with chunky tyres and a 360Watt-hour battery which can manage about 10 miles on a good day. It suffers from the 'peadaling air' effect where the pedalec sensor detects you're moving the pedals and turns on the motor which then accelerates you away with zero effort from the pedals. As soon as the motor kicks in, the pedals are effectively useless (apart from keeping the pedelec sensor triggered). As soon as the battery runs out on that bike, it is sluggish and heavy and no fun to ride at all.
Then you could have two figures, one for the calories available from motor and a percentage value for the efficiency of the bike at converting the rider input into propulsion. Giving you

Ride energy = Motor energy + (Rider input * Bike efficiency)

So your Chinese bike would have a low value for the bike efficiency (alerting you to the fact that it would be a bit of a beast to pedal) and a low value for the motor calories, a Cytronex would have a relatively low value for the motor calories offset by a high efficiency, and another bike might have a lower bike efficiency offset by a high value for available motor energy.
 

onmebike

Esteemed Pedelecer
Jan 3, 2010
499
1
West Essex
Maybe we are approaching this from the wrong angle.

Push bike manufacturers do not advertise how many W a cyclist needs to produce to move their bike over a set distance, so why are we trying to do the same?

It is a given in the main stream cycle industry that bikes that weigh less and have thin tyres and very good bearings will take less effort to propel than a heavier bike with suspension and big tyres. However not everyone rushes out to buy a light weight racing bike as other factors come into the bike buying equation.

Flecc has already commented, an electric bike is a hi bred of human and motor power, as far as I can see everyone has agreed that point. Surely then we do not need to take the "bike" element into consideration.

Would it be useful to test all bikes on a flat smooth indoor surface with exactly the same weight on the bike, with tyres pumped to the manufacturers recommendations and let it run at 25kph under throttle only? All bikes should be able to be set up to do this.

OK this test will not give accurate real world results but will let the prospective buyer know exactly how much help they will get from the electric bike part of a hi bred vehicle based on the weight and rolling resistance of the bike style they choose.

All the best

David


I agree with you, take the bike/rider element's out of the equation and simply quote battery/motor ability at a given resistance to simulate an average of all the other variable's. It sets a standard measurement under normal/average operating condition's, something the consumer can compare. The intention isn't to measure rider input, ability, weight or fitness, its to measure the ability of different manufacturer's battery/motor combinations at a set task. The set task being an average of all the variable's.
 

NRG

Esteemed Pedelecer
Oct 6, 2009
2,592
10
Bob you forgot the petrol tank size, quoting MPG does not tell you how far you can go...

You can't take the rider/bike out of the equation as Flecc has pointed out an E-Bike is a Hybrid device. Simply stating battery Ah and total Wh gets you nowhere just as Fecn has also pointed out.
 

Fecn

Esteemed Pedelecer
Sep 28, 2008
491
2
Warlingham, Surrey
Whether it's possible to measure anything meaningfully or accurately in any way or not...


... it strikes me that a couple of old hub motors held in a rigid frame could be almost ideal as a rolling road dynamometer setup. The bike tyre would ride on the outside surface of the hub motor. The resistance each hub provides could be varied by using the motors in regen mode to provide a braking force, and the amount of regen power provided gives a direct indication of power-at-the-road achieved from the bike.

So.. I've got some spare bits of steel and a welder... now all I need is some old hub motors to play with.
 

flecc

Member
Oct 25, 2006
53,571
30,857
I don’t think “true pedelecs” rule out a standardised test for their performance from the ingenious suggestions already being posted.

I appreciate there are different systems and I would see no problem with a test for pedelec mode (I think all bikes I was looking at had this option, but I am not familiar with all variations available) and then a second set of figures applicable to throttle usage which would only be published for bikes with a throttle option..
The sophisticated pedelec systems I mentioned earlier in thread use the rider force on each pedal stroke to determine the power from the motor, the motors operating in pulses with each stroke, mimicking the rider's leg muscles, so this could only be measured consistently by a standardised pressure pedal operating jig on a rolling road as I mentioned previously.

Since there would also have to be a separate test for throttle bikes, there would still be no true comparison between the two.

What level would the pedelec pressure on the jig be set at? What throttle level would be set? Whatever was chosen, the two sides of the industry would forever be arguing their level was unfair to them, some perhaps refusing to abide by testing and quoting their own figures! As I remarked though, once throttles finally disappear it will become a easier to set something up.

On the car mpg subject, I still insist that comparison is irrelevant. Remember the 2 to 1 discrepancy in my original post, two riders on the same route, same model bikes, riding together, one getting 62 miles from the charge, one getting 30 miles. Two cars doing the same thing, driving close together on the same route would get roughly the same mpg, 2 to 1 mpg would be impossible, highlighting how the hybrid human/electric element makes the bikes totally different from any motor vehicle.

Possibly a better guide for consumers is quoting the two extremes of range, with comment on the factors affecting those in order of effect on range, i.e. hills and steepness, rider weight and rider fitness.

We wouldn't need a standard for the longer range figure, every manufacturer would use a featherweight superfit rider on the flat with a following wind, so the playing field would be level. :D

We'd certainly need a standard for the shortest range figure though! :rolleyes:
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Fecn

Esteemed Pedelecer
Sep 28, 2008
491
2
Warlingham, Surrey
What level would the pedelec pressure on the jig be set at?
100 watts of input power at the crank... I believe that's the long-term continous power rating for average-joe (as per 1960s NASA study.. yes I am getting my numbers straight from your site Flecc :) - thanks :) ). That would seem to me to be a pretty sensible level of power input, given that average-joe would have to be turning the pedals for 2-5 hours for any distance test.

What throttle level would be set?
Manufacturer's preference ... but they have to be careful that their bikes aren't outperformed by non-electric bikes so having a realistic level of throttle makes sense.

I figured for the tests to be meaningful, we need to show power in at the crank as well as power out at the wheel. Total effort, total distance etc etc. We can include non-powered bikes for comparison that way too as we get a measure of efficiency in the drivetrain for each bike. We know power in at the crank and can measure power out at the tyre surface.
 
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flecc

Member
Oct 25, 2006
53,571
30,857
The two sides would still shout foul though! :D

Once throttles have disappeared this problem will go with them of course.
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onmebike

Esteemed Pedelecer
Jan 3, 2010
499
1
West Essex
You can't take the rider/bike out of the equation as Flecc has pointed out an E-Bike is a Hybrid device. Simply stating battery Ah and total Wh gets you nowhere just as Fecn has also pointed out.[/QUOTE]


It's not simply stating battery Ah and total Wh, it's setting battery/motor combination's a given task. The outcome of which will show differing results for each combination.
Just because two manufacturer's quote 36v 10Ah and a 250w motor doesn't mean the results will be identical.
Lets try and simplify the given task, Bike weighted to simulate rider. Terrain, 2 degree incline. Speed set to 10mph. Battery 8Ah.
Result, this ebike can under x conditions achieve x mile's, at x speed, on an x Ah battery. Apply this test to all ebike's and you have a comparison that is informative for the consumer and a target for manufacturers to match/improve on.
Of course, in the real world it will vary from user to user and under differing condition's, just like most everything else does.