Just Joined
Oct 11, 2020
Good to here about the range for you. I calculate MY range on meters of climb from my Garmin but I live in a hilly area. Is there a zero assist mode on the handlebar control? If not where is the on/off switch? I prefer to use zero or off when I don't need assist. I agree about gears, I always go higher on electric bikes. Look forward to getting further updates, Thanks :):cool:


Finding my (electric) wheels
Oct 9, 2020
3 speeds = 30/70/100% on handlebar, and press and hold to power off completely
If you use the app, it allows you full control in 10% increments.

Just cycled up Haytor this morning, which was 1650 ft of elevation and about 14 mile round trip. I knew I'd been up a big hill, but made it without drama, so very impressed with about 50% battery remaining after the round trip.


Esteemed Pedelecer
Jun 12, 2011
Let's get one thing straight in case people end up making wrong decisions based on what they read. Range has very little to do with the the type of bike or motor. What affects the range the most is how hard you pedal.

You have a motor that can convert energy stored in a battery to suppliment your own energy while riding the bike. You can take the energy out quickly and get a lot of help or you can trickle it out and get a lot less help for a long time. Any electric bike has a range of a few miles to infinity depending on how you use it. What range anybody gets on any particular journey is unique to them and their situation.

As an example, my first electric bike had an 8.8Ah battery. It had a rudimentary control system, hub-motor and was a medium weight MTB type. I was getting about 30 miles from the battery for leisure rides. I decided to use it for my 30 mile commute. I had fitted a wattmeter to it so that I could predict more accurately when the battery would run out. On the first day, the battery indicator was firmly in the red as I made the final asscent, having used the full 8Ah. After a couple of months, I had got my consumption down to 1Ah for the 30 mile journey that included 1000ft of ascending, i.e. a range of around 250 miles. The only difference from before was how hard I pedalled, and maybe 2kg in mass.

The bigger the battery you have, the further you can go for more or less the same pedal effort.

A light, efficient bike with a low frontal area will require less energy to maintain any speed than an upright MTB with fat tyres. The greater the speed, the much greater the difference.

Each 1kg of mass takes roughly 1% more energy to move it up any incline, so a 100kg rider needs 25% more power to ride side by side with an 80kg rider up the same incline, no matter how steep or not steep the incline is.