Yosepower hub kits.

Nealh

Esteemed Pedelecer
Aug 7, 2014
11,939
4,631
57
West Sx RH
KT 20a controller and the smaller amp one's are connected via a hall sensor cable, it has the std 9 pin Julet for hub connector and the other end has 3 separate phase bullets and the DJ7061 6 wire hall sensor block. Hub motors are supplied with this cable though you can buy them separately.
 

anders.d.moller

Finding my (electric) wheels
Jan 28, 2018
9
1
50
DK
Great thread!!

I just installed the Yose Power kit on my Koga road bike. 17,8 kilos all together. My first pedelec experience. Had to modify the hall sensor on the left pedal side. The Shimano 105 leaves very little room for the magnet assembly.

Very pleased with the power, the way it is being delivered and the sound from the hub motor is a thrill.
 

Attachments

D

Deleted member 4366

Guest
Is that the cassette motor of the freewheel one? Did you have to make any changes to your gearing? Did you have to do anything to get the wheel-rim in the centre of the frame? Can you tell us the no-load maximum speed?
 

daffy99

Pedelecer
Jul 17, 2017
29
0
50
Switzerland
Did you have to do anything to get the wheel-rim in the centre of the frame? Can you tell us the no-load maximum speed?
The black cassette motor version
- is centered in the middle of the frame
- has no noise emission coming from spoke / rim; I am running this in a full-suspension mountain bike on the road, and I am actively exploiting the suspension
- has a no-load max speed of about 42 km/h (according to the display) at about 41.5 Volt
- has speed output from a dedicated motor sensor cable, so even if the motor is not under power will the display show some speed which according to some minimal testing with GPS seems to be about correct.

When combined with the included controller (13+- A = just shy of 500 W), the max flat speed shown by the included LCD3 was 36 km/h - low rolling resistance tyres, bending way all over the handlebar.

My tests where done using thumb throttle only, no PAS.
 

Hightechpete

Pedelecer
Jan 20, 2018
118
31
68
west Wales
anders.d. Said
I just installed the Yose Power kit on my Koga road bike.
Having just installed a cyclotricity kit to my steel framed Raleigh, I'm so impressed that I want to install a Yose Power kit on my Trek road bike.
I noticed your comments regarding the Shimano 105 components, I assume your bike is equipped with a Shimano105/10 speed cassette, if so, did the kit fit without any major changes ?.
 
D

Deleted member 4366

Guest
That calculates out at 270 rpm, which is a nice speed for a 26" wheel MTB or 700C hybrid/road bike, though a bit fast if you want to run it in legal mode, where 230 rpm would be better.

It's unusual not to have to dish a cassette motor wheel, or to get one already dished correctly. That saves a lot of messing about.
 

footpump

Esteemed Pedelecer
Mar 19, 2014
713
75
72
I have the 350w freewheel kit and intend to fit to my kudos vita uno mtb by swooping rear hub and electrics.
on the kudos I fitted a shimano hydrolic brake to replace a mech one.

but just noticed the brake and gearshift lever is a combined one ,so fitting the supplied brake cut off could be a problem (which I believe I need if fitting a thumb throttle)

if I go just pas , would speed be 20+mph and can this be decreased via a lcd3 setting.

thanks all
 
D

Deleted member 4366

Guest
I have the 350w freewheel kit and intend to fit to my kudos vita uno mtb by swooping rear hub and electrics.
on the kudos I fitted a shimano hydrolic brake to replace a mech one.

but just noticed the brake and gearshift lever is a combined one ,so fitting the supplied brake cut off could be a problem (which I believe I need if fitting a thumb throttle)

if I go just pas , would speed be 20+mph and can this be decreased via a lcd3 setting.

thanks all
There's no legal requirement to fit a brake sensor. The only time you need one is when the motor runs on after you stop pedalling. Many modern controllers don't do that, though some still do it. It makes no difference if you have a throttle or not, but it might be a good idea to fit one if you have a full-width throttle because they sometimes break and give permanent half max speed.
 

Nealh

Esteemed Pedelecer
Aug 7, 2014
11,939
4,631
57
West Sx RH
50 mile ride out today using 13s/48v, I didn't go any faster ( top speed) as I was mainly looking for the range. Obviously acceleration and cruising is faster initially then the endurance/range factor was in mind so I settled for 18/19 mph. I did see 898w as I did briefly give it full throttle and the same on pas 5, I was seeing about 80 -100w more power in PAS 1 - 3 up to 400w and in PAS 4 approx. 600w.
The big jump is the extra 300w in PAS 5 but tonking along at that power won't give good range at all, mostly used PAS 2 occasionally 3 for the few small inclines I came across.
LCD3 has motor temp sensor, don't know how accurate this is but saw no temp change at all today the temp stayed at a steady 59F with the ambient temp ranging from 32 - 39F.

Voltage sag is less then with 36v, @36v I was seeing 1.3v PAS 2 & 1.8v PAS 3, 48V 0.8V pas 2 & 1.3v PAS 3. Batteries used were the same 2 x 36v ones with 12v lion booster packs in series then the pairs in parallel, start voltage 54.6 end was 48v.
 
Last edited:
  • Informative
Reactions: anotherkiwi
D

Deleted member 4366

Guest
It's not a motor temp sensor. It's inside the display, so just displaying ambient temperature.
 

Nealh

Esteemed Pedelecer
Aug 7, 2014
11,939
4,631
57
West Sx RH
It's not a motor temp sensor. It's inside the display, so just displaying ambient temperature.
The LCD3 shows two different readings, one ambient air temp and the other according to the Manual a motor temp reading !!!

Under display functions it gives #8 Motor power (watts) & motor temp, #9 Enviromental (ambient)temperature.
 
D

Deleted member 4366

Guest
There's no wires to a temperature sensor and no way to connect one, so how can the display get the temperature? Does it have infra-red vision that can see around corners?
 

Charliefox

Esteemed Pedelecer
Feb 11, 2015
260
63
76
Culloden Moor Inverness
I ordered a Yosepower CST hub kit form Elifeshop on ebay and it arrived on 22nd Dec, 6 days after placing the order. Warehouse location in Germany and total cost £184.

In the box:
The CST hub came laced in a 700c rim though there are 3 or 4 rim sizes to choose from, rim is silver and black with silver hub. Spokes silver and 13G, the rim is tightly laced with no loose spokes and all giving a nice ping when plucked.
Other kit components;
KT lcd3 with Yose Y01 decaling P & C parameters menu's as per usual, comes with 575mm extender cable.

Controller is KT 15a max with 50v caps so not for use at 13s/48v though 12s should be ok if you keep cell voltage under 41.5v, controller is quite small at 53mm x 84mm x 31mm.

PAS sensor is the KTV12L so ideally for sq taper on the non drive side. If the plastic splines were removed it has a 24mm dia so it possibly could be fitted to work on octalink /hollowtech type crank sets if they are long enough.

Cable set is 4-1 easy fit with Julet connectors, battery lead is the moulded 2 pin /2 part connector with bullet tails on the battery side. Hub motor cable/connector is long and easily reaches the saddle post.

A pair of E brake levers for wired brakes.

Triangle controller bag with logo 220mm L x 180mm D and 18mm bottom ringed cable entry.

A few tools come with the kit;
Crank puller.
Cassette/freewheel tool.
Chain whip.
Allen key set.
Also a couple of gimmicky led spoke lights.

Hub axle is 10 x 12mm and fits straight in replacing any Q or Bafang motor or any other with the same axle, width is std 135mm. I elected to remove my Q128C on my Boardman and the Yose fitted straight in with no gear adjustment needed, I didn't use the supplied KT kit as I already have a dual voltage controller wired up with lcd3 etc.

On Boxing day I rode out for a 65 miles down to Brighton/Shoreham and home and in operation the Yose appears to have good power and doesn't feel far off the Q128c , though in theory should be less as one is 350w and the other 500w and seems as quiet in operation.
At 36v 32km/h Yose CST is a about 1 - 1.5mph faster then the Q under my steam ( I topped out at 22.5 mph on the flat ), Yose is quoted as 270/280 rpm on ebay page so not to dissimilar to the Q which is believed to be 260rpm rather then the 201 stated on BMSB as it easily exceeds 15mph @36v,
The Yose max watts I saw in PAS 5 was 705 with my 20a controller, hub is 350w rated with a sticker that fell off !!!! There is a 350 engraving and serial no on the screw on side plate but this is obscured by the cassette
Power wise I saw watts approx. as;
PAS1 85w.
PAS2 155w.
PAS3 270w.
PAS4 360w.
PAS5 705w.

Next ride out I plan to try 12s lipo or 13s lion to see how nicely it runs, generally though I don't see a lot of issues and should give the Q128c a good run for it's money. Comparatively the Yose works out cheaper then a Q128c kit as there are no shipping or import fees involved.
Perhaps you could give us the Ebay URL as I couldn't find it on Ebay, only something similar on Amazon. To think I paid around £300 after customs charges etc 3 years ago for a Bafang 350W rear hub kit sent from China.Unusual to find stuff getting cheaper! I just had to pay £24 for a replacement Julet connecting cable but that was my fault for making dodgy connections at the junction box end.The motor and controller are still fine after 3 years. Hope you get the same.
 

Nealh

Esteemed Pedelecer
Aug 7, 2014
11,939
4,631
57
West Sx RH
Perhaps you could give us the Ebay URL as I couldn't find it on Ebay, only something similar on Amazon. To think I paid around £300 after customs charges etc 3 years ago for a Bafang 350W rear hub kit sent from China.Unusual to find stuff getting cheaper! I just had to pay £24 for a replacement Julet connecting cable but that was my fault for making dodgy connections at the junction box end.The motor and controller are still fine after 3 years. Hope you get the same.
All in #5 of this thread, start at the beginning and read through.
 

anders.d.moller

Finding my (electric) wheels
Jan 28, 2018
9
1
50
DK
anders.d. Said

Having just installed a cyclotricity kit to my steel framed Raleigh, I'm so impressed that I want to install a Yose Power kit on my Trek road bike.
I noticed your comments regarding the Shimano 105 components, I assume your bike is equipped with a Shimano105/10 speed cassette, if so, did the kit fit without any major changes ?.
Had to modify the left pedal arm 5 mm narrower to put the PAS sensor on the krank shaft hollowtech. Also had to modify the sensor housing removing the small plastic bits and carve out some plastic. Hope it lasts.

I removed the front gear shifter because not really in need of the lower gears.

Had to modify the bike frame back part because the rim was too close on the left side.

Other than that I'm achieving 37 km/h in PAS 4 and 5 straight out. Just charged for the first time. Display stated I passed more than 100 km with 23 km/h avg. Lots of pulling 40 kilos with the kids in trailer. A joy up hill!

Sendt fra min Pixel 2 med Tapatalk
 

Hightechpete

Pedelecer
Jan 20, 2018
118
31
68
west Wales
Thanks Anders, that's exactly the information I needed. I couln't get a definitive answer regarding the fitment of the 10 speed cassette, if you have indexed STI levers any change to the cassette would cause problems.

I'm also investigating using a different PA sensor to overcome the width issue between the crank arm and bottom bracket. Some people use sensors on the chain ring side to overcome this problem.

The Berlin based Ebay sites are currently out of stock, I might contact them and ask about the possibility of obtaining a kit in black as opposed to silver.
I've also seen the same kit advertised on Amazon, although slightly more expensive.

Regards
Peter.
 

anders.d.moller

Finding my (electric) wheels
Jan 28, 2018
9
1
50
DK
I did a shunt mod soldering the two pins soldered to the board of the kt36zws-ep01.

Torque was around 20% better from low rpms but after 30 km's the controller started acting weird.

First gave power like a had a throttle stuck. I'm running PAS only. On my way home the kit provided the same power regardless PAS 1-5. I think I have fried the controller even though there is no visual signs or smells from it being opened up.

It said 01 Info which translates to throttle abnormalities. Hence I run without, the controller is dead. Right?

Sendt fra min Pixel 2 med Tapatalk
 
Last edited:
D

Deleted member 4366

Guest
You haven't fried the controller and the fault you have is nothing to do with your sunt mod. Do you have the harness with waterproof connectors or the conventional block connectors on the controller. If the former, you've most likely pulled a cabe-tie too tight and damaged the harness or it's just faulty.