Yosepower hub kits.

anders.d.moller

Finding my (electric) wheels
Jan 28, 2018
9
1
50
DK
You haven't fried the controller and the fault you have is nothing to do with your sunt mod. Do you have the harness with waterproof connectors or the conventional block connectors on the controller. If the former, you've most likely pulled a cabe-tie too tight and damaged the harness or it's just faulty.
It's with Julet connectors.

I actually had a crash slow speed, the bike fell to the left but no wiring, display or controller was hit directly. But maybe the harness took a hit that can't be seen.

Then I have to order a whole new set as yose power doesn't sell spare parts from the EU warehouse.

Edit. Just connected the throttle and then it works! But, taking the plug out makes the wheel turn very slowly and seconds later 01 Info. So I guess I you were right. Something is wrong with the wiring.

Really weird that the system worked for 500 km without the throttle mounted or connected. Unless the accident/crash actually did something to the wiring. Thanks for your reply. I was about to order a new controller.

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D

Deleted member 4366

Guest
The only thing I can suggest is to cut open the harness near the controller end and try to identify the throttle 5v supply and signal. You could cut then there and run them externally, or even follow them into the controller and cut them there instead, which is a bit neater. If you open the controller, you can test which is which by testing continuity between the pins in the throttle connector and the wires that are soldered to the controller's pcb.

Here's a sketch I did of one that I had to fault-find. Note that there are some slightly different versions:

http://www.pedelecs.co.uk/forum/threads/julet-harness.27968/
 

anders.d.moller

Finding my (electric) wheels
Jan 28, 2018
9
1
50
DK
The only thing I can suggest is to cut open the harness near the controller end and try to identify the throttle 5v supply and signal. You could cut then there and run them externally, or even follow them into the controller and cut them there instead, which is a bit neater. If you open the controller, you can test which is which by testing continuity between the pins in the throttle connector and the wires that are soldered to the controller's pcb.

Here's a sketch I did of one that I had to fault-find. Note that there are some slightly different versions:

http://www.pedelecs.co.uk/forum/threads/julet-harness.27968/
I don't need the throttle at all, so your suggestion to find the 5v supply on the PCB, which shouldn't be hard, is a good idea. Because, then I can cut the supply there and leave it without mounting new wires.

But. Maybe there is a way to configure the controller to disable throttle? Then it might be an easy workaround.

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Nealh

Esteemed Pedelecer
Aug 7, 2014
11,933
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West Sx RH
Either leave the throttle connected if it dose work all ok as sometimes having throttle is dead handy.
The other scenario is that you have kinked damaged a wire when you crashed and it is intermittently shorting out.
 

Nealh

Esteemed Pedelecer
Aug 7, 2014
11,933
4,628
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West Sx RH
Elifeshop now have same kit available in 48v now, but only as a freewheel version in 26".
 
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footpump

Esteemed Pedelecer
Mar 19, 2014
713
75
72
sods law would have bought the 48v if it had been available a little while back.

could you run it with a 36v battery?
 

Nealh

Esteemed Pedelecer
Aug 7, 2014
11,933
4,628
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It is viable to over volt but mostly point less to under volt.
Controller lvc will be to high.
 

anders.d.moller

Finding my (electric) wheels
Jan 28, 2018
9
1
50
DK
Neal, how is your kit doing on your donor bike?

I've transferred mine to a used doner bike as I found my road bike too uncomfortable on the long run. My kit has reached 850 kilometers since February.


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Nealh

Esteemed Pedelecer
Aug 7, 2014
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It has been fine on the Boardman and was running it at 13s with a 20a KT with no issues, I have also an Akiema Q128c laced in to a rim which I have swapped out to compare like for like on the same bike. Both hubs are good the Q is a little quieter other wise they both are very good and equal for the terrain I ride in.
The Yose is slightly higher wound (280-300rpm) so runs about 4 or 5 mph faster then the Q,
For the winter colder riding I am using the Q and soon will swap the wheel out again for the Yose to take advantage of using it for a swifter ride for when the nicer warmer weather arrives.
 

PC2017

Esteemed Pedelecer
Sep 19, 2017
631
78
Scunthorpe
Jammyb I tested my throttle just after I saw your post, I am running off a 36v 15a stealth controller from the dillenger street kit (thats about all I know of the specs) with a KT LCD3, When rolling there is a very slight delay I can't say mine is more than 1 second, however I have been using my kit for nearly 2 years and have never really thought about it, you get a feel for it and I have a non kit throttle I got off Banggood for £6.00, like D8evh said in the other post its as expected, I think its just the controllers limited ability to act as fast as we'd like. I have use a yose 250w setup and that was the same!
 

Jammyb

Pedelecer
Jun 30, 2016
67
4
42
southampton
Jammyb I tested my throttle just after I saw your post, I am running off a 36v 15a stealth controller from the dillenger street kit (thats about all I know of the specs) with a KT LCD3, When rolling there is a very slight delay I can't say mine is more than 1 second, however I have been using my kit for nearly 2 years and have never really thought about it, you get a feel for it and I have a non kit throttle I got off Banggood for £6.00, like D8evh said in the other post its as expected, I think its just the controllers limited ability to act as fast as we'd like. I have use a yose 250w setup and that was the same!
Thanks PC2017 that’s good to know, just wondered if it was a setting I had wrong. It doesn’t bother me to much, as you say you get used to it. Having been trying it with my bike on a work stand I can hear it actually activates the motor pretty quick even when it’s rotating, just feels I bit longer delay when your traveling whilst it ramps up to the current speed to then carry on accelerating


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Nealh

Esteemed Pedelecer
Aug 7, 2014
11,933
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footpump

Esteemed Pedelecer
Mar 19, 2014
713
75
72
hi anders could you please post a picture of how you have run cables on your doner bike I cani see controller /or bag from pic.

my frame is smaller but I seem to have a lot of excess cable?

thank you
 

PC2017

Esteemed Pedelecer
Sep 19, 2017
631
78
Scunthorpe
Jammyb - no problem friend, it just would be nice to get some half decent weather to hit the road, my kit is old but the bikes new and its itching for a long run lol!

Nealh - I'll have a look at them, once you've had a 350w u can't do a 250w, I am like you when you mentioned they don't do a black rear hub, spray paint and me don't get along lol

Footpump - some kits have short cables and some have long ones, yose are really long when I used that kit I had a lot of cable wrapped around my front folks on my old non suspension bike then going back to my other kit the cables were shorter and I had to use the extender however this made it too long so I feel your pain. Oh dam I forgot my bikes in the shop for a rear wheel change the stock one was a bit crappy, but when i get it back and if you want I'll pop some pics up of my wiring however my controller is not in a bag! one more thing if you don't need the cable extender that came with your kit let me know I cut mine up for some wire but now I want to sell my YOSE kit assuming yours is yose too I would be willing to buy it at a fair price!
 

footpump

Esteemed Pedelecer
Mar 19, 2014
713
75
72
hi all I have been out today trying out the 350w hub on some local short but steep hills, on some hills the 350 seems easier than the original 250w rear hub but overall I seem to be about 2 mph slower?
I definitely like the full speed throttle compared to the original assist up to 6mph one.
looking back through this thread I cannot see what range people are getting.
today with fully charged 13ah ebc dolphin battery modes 3/4/5 modest throttle use. lcd at 11miles drops to 3 bars.
setting pas to 3 (which is what I would use on the 250w) I set off flattish with 3 miles lcd down to one bar, so I return home with just over 16 total miles covered.
last year with same battery /similar kt 15amp controller 250 ebc rear wheel kit and lcd3 display fitted to spec sirrus elite pas 2/3 flattish about 40 miles.

same battery tdz2 sport mode flattish about 21miles

wattage readins pas 1 54 p2 98 p3 173 p4 228 p5 430

I have just noticed that daffy99 has the enerprof 10ah battery (I have on order the 13ah vertion) so would be interested how he finds range.

I was going to shunt mod the 15ah controller but know have second thoughts if range decreases even more.
will see how bike performs with my 17 ah dolphin.

forgot to mention met 2 people with same ebc battery but running there 500w rear hub about 30 miles range flattish.
 
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daffy99

Pedelecer
Jul 17, 2017
29
0
50
Switzerland
I have just noticed that daffy99 has the enerprof 10ah battery (I have on order the 13ah vertion) so would be interested how he finds range.
I am very, very happy with the range I get out of 2 kg of battery.

Now, that statement above doesn't really mean anything unless qualified, so: I am powering about 120 kg of total system weight, on a full suspension MTB, on a Schwalbe Big Apple / Marathon Supreme mix (road tyres). I am driving exclusively off a thumb throttle.

On a hilly commute, I get at least 80km++ out of the battery, with speed limited to 25 km/h. Use of the motor is limited to uphill and acceleration, though, because I myself pedal at 28+ km/h.

The same commute, with all restrictions removed (450 Watt max power, always), obviously eats a whole lot more battery power, is quite a bit faster on average speed, and somehow gets me lazier with my pedalling. This would seem to last about 30km (rough guess).

Frankly, I am rather pleased, overall. The control algorithm for starting from a stand-still and for cutting off power *feel* also quite nice.

My main points of criticism are:
* I perceive the motor to be loud
* torque could be better (but then unrestricted speed would be lower)
* motor takes a while to really ramp up power; it seems as if the power control mechanism does not take into account current motor rotation (i.e. speed), but always assumes that the motor is in startup mode. I'd prefer much more aggressive ramping up while rolling.
* cable management / cable lengths are so-so

I cannot make any statement on longevity.
 

footpump

Esteemed Pedelecer
Mar 19, 2014
713
75
72
thanks daffy 99 my all up weight is similar at 120kg but I see you use throttle to get up to 25kph and then peddle at 28kph+
I rarely peddle faster than 25kph so have to use pas all the time.

will try pas 3 tomorrow as I nearly always used (medium pas on the 250 set up)
 

PC2017

Esteemed Pedelecer
Sep 19, 2017
631
78
Scunthorpe
wattage readins pas 1 54 p2 98 p3 173 p4 228 p5 430
Mine are same as yours till p4 350w p5 540w and i fear (oh and if anyone can prove me wrong plz plz do) there is no way of changing the PAS to wattage settings, Footpump on full throttle what is your wattage reading, those PAS levels to wattage settings are the same as my YOSE 250w setup.

My 250w got to 15-16mph at 430w
My 350w gets to 18-19mph at 500w full throttle on flat road no pedalling

mine being front hub drive, I am lucky to get 30 miles out of 14ah but it is nearly 2 years old.
 
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