Yosepower hub kits.

[PC2017]

36v350w rear hub

With battery or without??

settings P1

So I have eliminated faulty Mosfets and removed the motor extension cable which is a few years old and found (c2=0) seems to be working a bit better there is still some vibration getting to 12 mph but only brief then smooth going above that speed...

So I changed p1 to 100 has nearly removed the vibration, a part from a small vibration at PAS 3 from stop to start....

so what is the 350w hub Motor Gear Reduction Ratio?

 

[vfr400]

so what is the 350w hub Motor Gear Reduction Ratio?

You need to count the teeth on your gears. Did you get any photos?

 

[PC2017]

count the teeth on your gears.

I don't want to open it, it's under warranty

I assume this is the number of teeth on the outer shell and not the small cogs in the planetary gear part

 

[davie150]

With battery or without?

With battery, freewheel version £332,
I have also ordered a new 6 gear freewheel from Amazon just in case the old one is too hard to get off.

 

[vfr400]

With battery, freewheel version £332,
I have also ordered a new 6 gear freewheel from Amazon just in case the old one is too hard to get off.

The freewheel you need is the 11T/32T DNP one, which you can get from Aliexpress, because you'll probably find your gearing too low after fitting an electric kit. The only problem is that They don't do 6 speed, but I think your 6 speed will index OK on just the top 6 gears, which would give you 11T/28T, or you can get a 7-speed shifter.

 

[PC2017]

too hard to get off

If you have the correct freewheel removal tool, a spanner that'll fit it and a metal pole for leverage(or a long handle spanner) you'll be ok, plenty of vids on youtube for help! luckily I had a warm day and eventually got it off but now I have to do it again to fit my DNP, I went for the 13/28t 7 speed

 

[davie150]

The freewheel you need is the 11T/32T DNP one, which you can get from Aliexpress, because you'll probably find your gearing too low after fitting an electric kit. The only problem is that They don't do 6 speed, but I think your 6 speed will index OK on just the top 6 gears, which would give you 11T/28T, or you can get a 7-speed shifter.

I will fit the new one and give it a try and if I need to change it later on them I will do.
I am not sure what gearing too low means tbh, I am not really in to bikes ATM, though I am sure that will change, I do have 18 gears on my bike and in the low gears I can cycle like mad and not got any where, but the high gears are stiff as hell on the flat and I have to be going at a decent speed to be able to turn the cranks .

 

[Nealh]

The Yose I believe is 4:3:1, P1 I use 86. 4.3 x 20 magnet poles.

 

[PC2017]

P1 I use 86. 4.3 x 20 magnet poles.

That would be where the default comes from, Is it just me then or would changing this to 100 really make much difference? changing C2 to anything bar 0 makes the controller pop n stop

 

[Nealh]

P1 generally affects the correct reading of the odo so cut off speed will be out, a higher value will mean a higher actual odo reading and I believe has an affect on pas. On the Q128C when I had a wrong value I found motor pickup/timing was not right, under pas use the motor would momentary (thous of sec) pause before picking up again. Under throttle there was no change.

C2 0 is the default and correct phase value.
If you are having minor issues use that niggle use C10 and a system restart to default settings.

 

[PC2017]

niggle use C10 and a system restart

Yep solid idea gona go down that path today. I rigged a cam over the motor and went for a ride, the controller did not stall once but the vibration can be heard, then this morning coming through school run traffic I needed that extra boost, PAS 1, hit the throttle(limited to the speed of PAS 1) and the dam thing choked, stalled then picked up have you ever experienced anything so intermittent with rear hubs?

 

[PC2017]

So I did a C10 reset to no avail - so I thought about the power connector I used, as I was so use to stealth controllers being wired direct to the battery, according to the connectors specs it's Ip68 and can handle 20 amp although the battery wires only just fit the controller wires fit perfect, so I took it to bits re-tinned the wires and screwed them tight to the connector on both sides, but alas this did not solve the problem... It is really hard to video the cutting in and out of the motor due to motor noise, it basically sounds like the brake cut off engaging and disengaging in the matter of a split second but only at max torque or PAS 5 and now even with no load and also extremely intermittent.... I have and are continuing to monitor my brake sensors however I don't feel like they are to blame... Oh and the noise is NOT coming from the controller it is coming from the motor. I am now finding it hard to classify it as a STALL.

Questions, could it be a faulty clutch? I have no idea on how the clutch works and have no other knowledge on this subject, this is just a shot in the dark question.

 

[Nealh]

Unless you have a bad phase connection in the motor then the noise is often from the controller, said noise resonates and appears to be the motor but in fact isn't.

Set P1 to 86.

Confirm the magnet poles /sensor being used.
Which battery does it occur with and controller amps.

List all your C parameters.

PAS 5 max amps is the draw to much for the battery cells in use.

 

[Nealh]

I had a recent similar problem of intermittent stall power delivery to my 8fun CST and eventually traced it to the phase bullet connectors, pulled them a part tighten the female with pliers a little reconnected and all was well again. Later I cut them off and rewired/soldered with an MT60 now all sweet again.

 

[PC2017]

phase bullet connectors

When I disconnected the bullet julet connector one pin bent a little and I think it was a phase wire!

Thanks for the assist - I will get back to you on all info from your first post.

Controller standard 15amp +-1amp yose 250/350w.. Battery 2.5 years old x 2 samsung R or E but I couldn't say for sure, however I had no problem with either on the front hub 350w @ PAS5

 

[PC2017]

Posted video - emailed yose - An engineer thinks the "motor is defect" direct quote, however then they go on to say check the "rotor's installation", twice mentioning "rotor". I assume this is a typo... Would you guys agree with me or should I be checking for a "rotor" it seems like a daft question I know, but knowing me I just thought I'd check first! lol

Then they said they'll send me another "rotor" from china after I have checked the installation...

SCRAP that they did mean ROTOR

 

[egroover]

Rotor is normal term for the brake disc

 

[PC2017]

brake disc

Yep thats what I was thinking - they mean the internal motor not including the outer case and wheel - I have replied to the email to confirm I can install a new internal motor, now it's in the lap of gods until they respond....

 

[davie150]

I hope so, because I have ordered the 36v350w rear hub from yosepower this afternoon.

Ok, that is seven days and my kit is on the road in the way to local depot, seven days! , lucky the weather is **** lol

 

[PC2017]

weather is ****

I know right... try making a video of a problem you can barely hear due to motor noise and the dam wind - but hey I did it..

Should be a nice warm week head for your new build - I assume it's your first build... take your time to read the manual if they send you one in time, they emailed me the manual after I had finished the build.... on the website there is some videos to download and watch but some main bits have been edited out, like getting the wheel to sit in the drop outs and which side to place your anti-rotation washers on, I put mine on the outside...

Best LCD3 translation
https://880b28d3d003e6b1c176-ee9159906b823979ce618332e73bec87.ssl.cf4.rackcdn.com/other/en_KT-LCD3.pdf

Yose manuals and Video
https://www.yosepower.com/en/download/index.html