Yosepower hub kits.

quackstar84

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Mar 6, 2014
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Hello everyone. Hope you've all been well this past year? . So my ebike decided to staye error code 3; motor hull abnormality once again. Ive been using it often however the other day I went further than normal and found myself walking it back home . In the past the speed cable has stopped working as well. Nothing works to spin the hub now. Ive checked all the connections and all the pins are fine, ive pushed them together as hard as I can. And a chap on here shown how you can bypass the lcd3 screen so you can use the throttle without it, which didn't work. So it's either the controller, cables or hall sensors. I can't easily tese the hall sensors without opening either the controller (I cant remove it from the case) or the hub correct as ive those water proof plugs. So as a test im wondering if simply buying a new controller for £30 odd would be ideal first?

Thank you for any help.
 

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vfr400

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£10 for a motor cable from Ebay. Cut the connector off attach a 4 - 6v charger to the red and black wires, then you can test the halls on the other wires.
 
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Nealh

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As vfr has said the are ways to test with the motor cable , just a case of being a bit more inventive .
If you want to be really clever use a double end motor/controller cable , cut it in half and then join all the wires to a block connector so they are colour to colour. Connect the moulded connectors to the motor and controller ends, one can then stick the meters probes in to the block connector for testing.
When done remove the test cable and reconnect the fitted cables as normal.
You will need a block connector or two smaller ones so that none of the wires short by touching each other.

£10 or so to make up the wire for testing will take away the guess work in buying parts that you might not need.
 
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quackstar84

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Mar 6, 2014
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£10 for a motor cable from Ebay. Cut the connector off attach a 4 - 6v charger to the red and black wires, then you can test the halls on the other wires.
So I don't need the hub wheel connected to the controller and battery if I use 4-6v charger. Would this work https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/402761003082 i could put the red and black cable into it? Thank you
 

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quackstar84

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Mar 6, 2014
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As vfr has said the are ways to test with the motor cable , just a case of being a bit more inventive .
If you want to be really clever use a double end motor/controller cable , cut it in half and then join all the wires to a block connector so they are colour to colour. Connect the moulded connectors to the motor and controller ends, one can then stick the meters probes in to the block connector for testing.
When done remove the test cable and reconnect the fitted cables as normal.
You will need a block connector or two smaller ones so that none of the wires short by touching each other.

£10 or so to make up the wire for testing will take away the guess work in buying parts that you might not need.
I really like this idea. Even i could do it because you don't need to solder. I have a block from my old kit however I dont think it has 9 separate slots. Ill go and find it. Thanks Nealh and nice to see you
 

quackstar84

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Mar 6, 2014
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I have these from my 1000 watt direct drive controller. I could use one or those large ones for the motor power cables and just find two smaller 3 slot ones? Then I just need a multi meter. Thanks again guys.
 

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Nealh

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The strip connector is ideal for connecting the test motor wire. As I mentioned get the normal extension motor cable that connects to both ends of the existing cabling and then you don't need another power source to test halls.
For mosfets one simply probes the controller phases with no power source needed.
 
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quackstar84

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Mar 6, 2014
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So I've done the same settings as him. When I probe the controller's negative input and the three phase pins it's around 10k rather than his 5k and when I probe them with the positive get no response/charging. I couldn't get any continuity either. So it's dead as a dodo right? The lcd3 works fine thought. Picture is to show settings. The pins are quite deep into the plug thought.

Thanks again everyone. Im really happy how much I've learnt from your gentlemen
 

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quackstar84

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Mar 6, 2014
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I tried this on two other controllers (500 and 1000w direct drives) and it works, the meter chargers the capacitors. If I reverse the polarity all three controller capacitors begin to drain yet this one won't charge or at lease doesn't show a voltage indication of increase.
 

vfr400

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I tried this on two other controllers (500 and 1000w direct drives) and it works, the meter chargers the capacitors. If I reverse the polarity all three controller capacitors begin to drain yet this one won't charge or at lease doesn't show a voltage indication of increase.
Use the 200k scale and try again.
 
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quackstar84

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Mar 6, 2014
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I just went pass the - voltage while in reverse polarity
( opposite to what the guy did in the video) and allowed the voltage to go + 20 then I places the probes like the guy does in the vidoe and now they charge upwards. Not sure why that happened however it looks like mosfets are fine, i think. I switched the probes just between the positive input of the controller.
 

quackstar84

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Mar 6, 2014
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If I open the hub up, I'll be able to test the hall sensors and cables from there without having to buy anything right? I have an freewheel removal tool. I'd need to put the hub in a vice in order to turn it backwards thought.
 

vfr400

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You can leave the freewheel on if you can get at the side-plate screws.

It's easier to test the halls in the controller as long as you're careful not to short anything with the probes. Use a helper to turn the wheel backwards while you measure.
 
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Nealh

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How are you testing the fets with power ? If so it is wrong, with the fets one would better off discharging the capacitor.
One needs 5v for the halls though.
 
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