drummerian

I'll take it off your hands if that's OK Warwick, will be good to see you again, since we last met both Jodie and I have built our own eBikes, largely thanks to advice from you!

10s2p, that picture is1 of 2 cell sets in the same configuration, making a 5s2p. Two of these on top of each other will make the 10s2p configuration, probably with a link wire between the 2.

Starting building my own pack after being inspired by d8veh's lightweight build. Before I commit to this is there a better layout possible (I don't think so but don't want to have missed an obvious trick!)

Hi, what size size rim is this laced in to? Sorry may be covered in the video but I haven't had a chance to watch that yet

Thanks wheeliepete+d8veh, that's the advice I was after I know about aH vs the max output current but wasn't aware of the general rules regarding best practice and how the batteries perform in the real world. Seems like high drain would be more suitable for my situation, rather than higher capacity. This will also allow for future power upgrades slightly more easily. With that in mind it would appear the 30q's are currently the best value option, I'm not sure it's worth the extra for the 3120mAh Konions (+20euro)?

Thanks guys, I think a 10s2p pack will be big enough for now, with the potential to add a second pack in parallel for longer trips. The controllers we have are rated for "36v – 15AH Max-7AH". So I would assume that 2 10Amp cells (or even 8Amp cells) in parallel would be adequate to max the controllers output such that the controller becomes the limiting factor, therefor worth going for the 3500mAh 35e's. Commute would be a 20 Mile round trip, using the motor for some assistance. Have I understood the rated inputs/outputs correctly there?

So what cells + retailer would users go for now if you were ordering. Unsure between the 3500 and 3000mah cells form Samsung (nkon )

Annoyingly a quick look this morning showed only one spacer on the drive side which I think implies a 73mm BB. I will do some more checking later, I'm not so familiar with the FSA BB that is on this bike.

Those look like some expensive cell options! What supplier were you looking at?

apologies, just found this thread. makes more sense now: http://www.pedelecs.co.uk/forum/threads/how-to-fit-a-pas-without-disassembling-the-bb.17154/ Only worry is that the plastic spacer is there to prevent you preloading the bearings too much, any thoughts on that? Thanks again

Nice one, surprised you can put the clamping force through the plastic OK but if it works it works! I guess this just offsets the left hand crank arm out by the width of the plastic disc (If I am understanding the explanation correctly)

Going to have a go at building one of these packs for both mine and my partners ebikes. I am running an electricbikeconversions rear hub kit with the standard controller '36v – 15AH Max-7AH rated Fully Matched Intelligent Controller', she is running a panda pro kit which I think uses a similar spec'd controller. I have looked in to batteries and I think with a 36s2p setup cells that give ~10amp continuous would be sufficient for both of us now and would give slightly more (20amp cont) if we wanted to upgrade controllers slightly in the future. From that I assume going for higher mAH batteries to get closer to 36V@7ah would be the way to go? https://eu.nkon.nl/rechargeable/18650-size/samsung-inr18650-35e.html Or is it a better bet to go for a 3000maH but 15amp continuous cell for the additional peak? Thanks Ian

Apologies to drag up an old thread. d8veh, I'm interested to see how you sorted PAS on this. I am building a similar bike up with an external bottom bracket and am trying to come up with a neat solution for nice reliable PAS. In previous builds I have drilled out and epoxied the magnet ring to the granny gear, it hasn't failed yet but I don't love it...

Emailed

aha, i thought the MTB looked totally different (downtube mounted battery)?