saneagle

It would also help if you can pull the motor controller out from under the battery so that we can see the connectors. If I had your bike here in Telford so that I could see what's in it, I'd probably have it sorted in less than an hour.

It's a sensorless motor, so very limited options. If anything happens, it's not difficult to get the KT controller and LCD from PSWPower (must be the sensorless version) and stick it in a box or bag. That modification is a good improvement on the OEM system. Unfortunately, I don't know the circumstances that caused the original controller failure. I've got a feeling that it didn't just fail in service.

Nothing will happen. You need to show us which version you have if you want help.

You need to dissassemble whatever you have and lay it all out so that we can see what it is, then we can help you. Ebikes are very simple, and there are probably a few options to get you going, but we don't have enough information on what you have.

Nice light, but there seems to be a bitof a discrepancy in their description: 2 x 2170 cells with 4.8Ah at 3.7v = 35.5 WH therefore 2 x 10w LEDs would last for 1.78 hours, not their claimed 8.5 hrs.

An update on this bike. That controller wasn't much good. There was a synchronisation problem between the motor and controller that made a rough patch for the motor under full power, which eventually led to the demise of the controller. I therefore paid the extra for a KT sensorless controller from PSWPower (about £60 with LCD, throttle and PAS). I finished installing it today, and it's absolutely fantastic - totally smooth and silent, plus all the advantages of a KT controller. My apprentice is very happy with it. The controller and all its wires and connectors wouldn't fix in the standard Aliexpress controller box, so I printed my own one. It has slots for large zip ties or I have another version with holes for screws. It's too late for photos. I'll get some next time he comes:

Can you show us a photo of this torque sensor that shows the whole thing and the damage to it? You've confused us because your picture above shows an external cadence sensor, not an integrated torque sensor!

You need to tell us about the controller. What is the maximum current written on it? Tell us more about the cutting out. When does it do it?

For that, it requires a subscription and a connection to a SIM card (normally a phone by bluetooth). In that case you might as well use the phone directly with Google Navigation, which is free.

A bike with a hub-motor would solve all that.

Why do you want that? It's going to push your bike into the disproportionately expensive range. For commuting, all you need is a standard Chinese ebike with a hub-motor that would cost around £750. The most important point for commuting is where you're going to keep the bike while you're at work. Do you have somewhere secure?

If you want legal, you still c4=3 for the throttle to work as a power boost when pedaling. If you want illegal, you set P4=0. (zero start throttle) and c4=0.

If you want to fix your bike, state clearly what are the present issues. Use separate paragraphs for each point. Please, no ramble and no life history. It's unclear whether you just want to rant or whether you want to improve your situation. We are here to help if you need it.

If the charger is green when not plugged into the battery and it goes red when plugged in, it[s charging.

You can choose your type from this seller: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/177775610032?_trkparms=itmf%3D1%26aid%3D1110006%26rkt%3D4%26asc%3D20231107084023%26mech%3D1%26algv%3DSimVIDwebV4WithCtxRankerV1UnifiedFeaturesKatReco%26pmt%3D1%26amclksrc%3DITM%26sd%3D176733541014%26sid%3DAQALAAAAEEdErvZFmuncQo9JUTmnxSQ%3D%26itm%3D177775610032%26noa%3D0%26plcampt%3D0%3A10524084019%2C5%3AAG7439120119%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D1%26rk%3D4%26pid%3D101875%26b%3D1%26mehot%3Dnone%26lsid%3D3%26meid%3Df436e838d86a449da9b18208466497b8%26pg%3D2332490&_trksid=p2332490.c101875.m1851&itmprp=cksum%3A177775610032f436e838d86a449da9b18208466497b8%7Cenc%3AAQALAAABEDdugEFBaNN3EEVMKPTWLwTGLCuMNRsHQRx7FHeI5cm8qhpxgt8sfhW9uA8X%252BSpGF4%252BstWeVHuD6smH0L78l4Tke7TQLQqowja7lc%252BRU5OXYfati0VRdPmz42jCdsT01HFMwZHW7DGl5Yrp039pWjsIOipM9mGZJHlYirA%252BfRrq19NHjpLLGquNrhBOOHFzmP48XyQ0qb84y4p5PCHPSsevEC7h%252B0C1w%252FPN%252BZeXnPmlw8PBQA6B0mugq3HA5x4stKsOC50oRFbmYHFjP8VArcc%252F1rOW6vwP1oOvqFzFaRDV--oqZwxgzrANhV62XwDkN5azcBBroB9AzGbaF0lTRFC82tAN2cf2q5zpAWECJcgIF%7Campid%3APL_CLK%7Cclp%3A2332490&itmmeta=01KM3S8J7VGS4PEYDZETP2WH7F

If you have a separate controller, the type of battery and base make no difference, since you buy them together as a pair, but if you have an integrated controller, you have to get the correct base as there are two different types of controller and fitting.

This is how it was in about 2018 when I did the Bosch course. When you complete the Bosch course, you can buy a dongle for your PC that allows you to access the Bosch software. You also need some sort of credentials to be able to buy the dongle to show that you're a dealer or official repairer. There are different levels of access to features in the software. A dealer can read error codes, program and delete the maintenance code, enable/disable lights, do software updates, alter the various user interfaces and things like that. I know someone with higher access, who re-programmed his walk-assist to give maximum speed, like a throttle.

There are many legal ebikes that give you all the power you want. The only thing limited is the speed, though in many cases that can also be adjusted by various means. My general advice is to get something with a standard Hailong type or rack 48v battery. There are plenty of different styles to choose from. Search for "48v 250w ebike" and take your pick.

I've never had any issues with spokes from Aliexpress, Amazon or Ebay. They're all the same. I buy the cheapest ones - ordinary spokes, constant thickness with an elbow bend. I've never had to re-tighten, nor have I ever had a spoke break. The nipples normally come with them. The only important thing is to get 14g, not 13g. Every time we hear about broken spokes, they're always 13g or 12g. 12g spokes on a bicycle are an absolute disaster. That's in the context of a normal bike for riding trails and on the road, not for downhill or trials riding. Spokes from Ryan has always been a good service. They're quick, efficient and not expensive. I've used him a few times. It looks like he's changed his name to the Bristol link above, or maybe he's sold out and moved on. There's another nearly identical website for Ryan's wheel-building in Wales, so maybe that confirms it. Interestingly, there's no obvious link to the spokes website. https://www.ryanbuildswheels.co.uk/contact/

I just measure the internal diameter (in a couple of directions in case its oval), then add 5mm.

I don't know where you got that from, but most LiShui controllers don't work anything like that. Most use speed control. Thar graph shows current control, like KT controllers have.

Those bikes with small wheels don't need gears. You get plenty of torque from the motor for the steepest of hills. That's the sort of bike I'd get if I still had my boat. With the bars folded down and the pedals folded, they go flat against a wall, so take very little space. The bikes that fold in half are surprisingly wide. It helps to get them in a car boot, but not so good for a flat or similar.

Hall sensors are normally in slots, so don't need much to hold them. A spot of epoxy or superglue should be fine.

Most of us have not been using Bosch batteries and we've been happily riding our ebikes for very many years without them catching fire. If I wanted such a bike for my boat, I'd get one of those Chinese ones with 16" wheels, that fold so small that you can keep it dry in a sail bag. Is your boat on freshwater or saltwater?

Generally, the smaller the wheels, the more stable they are, so look for one with 20" wheels if you can find one. 24 " is next best.