jarnold

The only one that could be logically answered is the last one, possibly, but even that answer could not be based on the information given.

Really? Where were the candidates taken from? A kindergarten?

My KT does use the hall sensors for speed limiting, and as far as I know, it's not a setting. Whereas the speed display could be derived from the hall sensors if I changed the settings, but it wouldn't work too well as the hub has a freewheel. However, I could be wrong - it happened once before in May 1976.

As has been pointed out before, the max speed comes from the motor hall effect devices, whereas the indicated speed can come from another sensor.

My bike has a front hub motor, but the speed sensor is on the back wheel, so you need to actually ride it to determine the maximum speed.

Because then they'd be traceable, via registration plates, sanctionable, via penalty points etc., apart from being more expensive. Also noisier, which might be a consideration if you're trying to stay under the radar.

Anybody who can work with Eclipse is a hero.

I think you should. Just thinking out loud, as it were...

I suppose, in an ideal world, you'd coulomb count, with auto calibration at full charge and death, but that's not really practical when the battery's charged from an external source, while the controller is off. Another way might be to somehow factor in the current draw along with the voltage to give a more accurate capacity reading? Not really worth the faff for a one off, though.

You can't really get much simpler than a moving average! I had an algorithm for bar graphs on satellite dish alignment meters that could otherwise be very jittery, but I can't remember off the top of my head how it worked. It was a bit more complicated than a simple moving average, but gave very good results.

AliExpress lists that motor as "Freewheel 6S 9S", whatever that means..

I believe you need to swap two of the phase wires(the three thicker wires) and the corresponding two of the hall sensors wires. However, that may only work if it's a direct drive hub with no free wheel. But I'm no expert.

I set P1 to 117. Works great now! Have to put in a bit of leg power at the very top of the hill, where it gets a bit steeper, but I'm very pleased. Thanks for all the help. I may see if I can resurrect the rear dropout torque sensor now.

Ok, I thought you were referring to one of my threads. Anyway, it all makes perfect sense. I'll go for a test ride later.

Although I must have missed where you said that in the other thread.

I'll give it a go. Thanks.

That's the conclusion I've been coming to, after more reading. The speedometer reading is, I think, correct, but that comes from a spoke magnet sensor. Is it possible that the speed limiting is independently controlled by the P1 setting? My P1 is currently 87, am I right in that I would need to increase this to get to the 15mph limit?

Hmmm. It's a lot better than the Brainpower controller, but seems to cut power at about 11.5 mph, even though the max speed is set for 25kph. Any insights?

Thanks, pretty much what I thought. And that was supposed to be 100 ohm, I don't think 109 ohms is a preferred value in the E24 range.

My hub has a freewheel, so can't use the hall sensors for speed/ distance measurements. The spoke magnet sensor is a two wire device, so probably a reed switch. On the outgoing Brainpower controller this worked fine connected to the 2 pin external speed sensor connector with a red and a white wire, which I assume was simply closing a circuit between the white and +5v. Is this going to be ok on my shiny new KT controller? I can't imagine it would damage anything, but I could easily put a 100 ohm resistor in series, just in case.

Finally got the phase and hall effect connections sorted. Note to self: Don't assume the black wire is ground - it just could be the screen, and the black wire is redundant... That wasted a fair amount of time! The LCD kept saying E03, but I assumed that an incorrect hall sequence could give that, so it wasn't until I got the meter out that I realised I had no ground continuity. Now need to do a proper job of splicing the relevant wires together, and try to devise a method of physically fixing the controller to the frame.

Well, the motor cable finally arrived (Thanks, Evri...) and it's no bloody use at all! I now have two female connectors, which I find totally weird. So I'll just cut the cable and solder things. I'd hoped to have a neat, removable solution, but obviously the universe had other ideas.

One more thing, while I wait for the motor cable to arrive: I think I'm right in saying that I will need to keep the spoke magnet and sensor, as the hub motor has a freewheel? That being the case I will have to move it from the back wheel to the front, so that I can break out the wires for it. The supplied(but not ordered) PAS has a captive rotating part, and no means to mount the stationary part, apart from the cable. Are these reliable, or do they wear out quickly? I'd like to use it to avoid having to bugger up the nice neat wiring loom, and because I would hope that it's compatible with the controller, even though I've had no problem with the existing one, I have seen threads on here from people who have.

Sadly, luck doesn't work like that.

Thanks Interesting. Any insights on sorting the phase and hall connections? Further reading suggests it might not be necessary to go through all 36 permutations, but you guys seem to have a lot of experience.