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Dahon Jetstream conversion

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I don't like to criticise but this just looks wrong. 1 1/8" head tube requires 1 1/8" steerer tube not tapered 1 1/2" - 1 1/8". Obviously Cwah has not done his home work and bought a fork with the wrong steerer tube, albeit that it is for a 26" wheel it would look a bit better if it sat on the crown race as it should. I also have my doubts as to whether the steering will handle that well as the tapered tube angle will not suit the lower bearing seat angle, all of the pressure on the lower bearing race will be on the outer edge instead of across the bearing race and I can see premature wear or malfunction being the issue. In my eyes it is a poor choice and a poor decision.
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I don't like to criticise but this just looks wrong. 1 1/8" head tube requires 1 1/8" steerer tube not tapered 1 1/2" - 1 1/8". Obviously Cwah has not done his home work and bought a fork with the wrong steerer tube, albeit that it is for a 26" wheel it would look a bit better if it sat on the crown race as it should. I also have my doubts as to whether the steering will handle that well as the tapered tube angle will not suit the lower bearing seat angle, all of the pressure on the lower bearing race will be on the outer edge instead of across the bearing race and I can see premature wear or malfunction being the issue. In my eyes it is a poor choice and a poor decision.

 

I bought this one and it only mentioned 1 1/8" steerer tube in the description. it never mentioned 1/2" anywhere:

http://www.ribblecycles.co.uk/sp/mtb-bmx-bike/forks-mtb-rock-shox-xc-30-tapered-forks-canti-bosses/rockform305

 

:( :( :(

I bought this one and it only mentioned 1 1/8" steerer tube in the description. it never mentioned 1/2" anywhere:

http://www.ribblecycles.co.uk/sp/mtb-bmx-bike/forks-mtb-rock-shox-xc-30-tapered-forks-canti-bosses/rockform305

 

:( :( :(

No it doesn't - but it does mention "tapered" in the title which refers to the steerer tube. You might be able to return it though as the listing is not clear.

 

Michael

Edit: The XC30 is available with straight steerer tube options as well. See here.

  • Author
Or maybe I sell this dahon and get a proper 26" folding bike such as a montague?
I bought this one and it only mentioned 1 1/8" steerer tube in the description. it never mentioned 1/2" anywhere:

http://www.ribblecycles.co.uk/sp/mtb-bmx-bike/forks-mtb-rock-shox-xc-30-tapered-forks-canti-bosses/rockform305

 

:( :( :(

 

The title does clearly state tapered although the description says 1 1/8" steerer, though clicking and viewing a zoomed piccy it cleary shows they are 11/8" tapered.

After being patient I recently acquired Rockshok Recons with remote lockout on ebay.

Edited by Nealh

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/rock-shox-tora-289-forks-/251763966485?&_trksid=p2056016.l4276#ht_108wt_1190

 

These would fit Cwah steerer length 220mm any good only 20hrs to go at 99p & £9.99 p&p, might have to bid against the rest of the forum now its been posted here:oops: . Steerer tube will clean up ok with some 3 in 1 and fine wire wool and they are disc mount only.

p.s.

Just had a look again at the poor quality pic, description says v.g.c but chrome stantions look like they may have rust speckles on them, but on reflection I think its just the poor piccy that makes it look that way.

Edited by Nealh

Cwah, have you tried it yet? I think you just ride it for a bit to see how it goes. Despite what people say, I still can't see anything that would give a problem other than maybe the steering geometry, which would show itself as soon as you ride the bike. The steering head bearings are properly seated and loaded the way you have it, so they shouldn't break. The bottom bearing inner will be wedged on the taper just like it wedges on the normal taper at the botom of the steerer tube. There's a slight question of whether it's sitting straight without the edge of the fork crown to hold it square, but I think it would self-centralise if it were crooked.

cwah, you've got to take that fork off.

It does not only look totally wrong on the bike but also looks dangerous.

Just think that the front brake is only as good as how the headset is fitted.

If the bottom crown race moves, the whole of the headset will slacken, the bearing will pop its balls and you'd be goner.

Hi cwah,

 

To me this looks like an accident waiting to happen.

 

If it were me I would abandon this project, restore the Dahon to as near original condition as possible and get another bike.

Assuming it is a large wheel folder that you want/need a Montague, Dahon Cadenza or Espresso, Tern Joe would be good choices.

 

Whatever you decide, I hope you have good Christmas.

If the bottom crown race moves, the whole of the headset will slacken, the bearing will pop its balls and you'd be goner.

 

How can it move? It's wedged on the taper.

how can you trust a piece of steel 1.5mm thick with a hole 28mm wide not to rock when violently pushed from one side?

No Crown race :eek::eek: you will hit the deck.

 

http://www.wiggle.co.uk/ritchey-wcs-crown-race/

Crown race example some are universal and some bearing or makes will need a specific race.

 

The Crown race is a part of the head set for the steerer tube, it is a ring that sits on the lower end of the steerer tube some are split to make fitting easier. Once fitted ( the correct one for your head set should be on your origanl forks you removed) it seats against the lower bearing which has a 45 degree seat angle or some are 36 degrees, in turn this gives a free and easy steering action hence why you should are able to ride hands free.

With out one fitted the steering will be very torqy,stiff and unpredictable eventually leading to loss of direction and control, riding hands free will be virtually impossible and if you try it you will end up hitting the tarmac.

 

The RS Tora fork is the next level up from the popular entry level RS Dart so should be a bit better, reviews I find can be bias against some of the lower end components soley because of price.

Edited by Nealh

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No Crown race :eek::eek: you will hit the deck.

 

http://www.wiggle.co.uk/ritchey-wcs-crown-race/

Crown race example some are universal and some bearing or makes will need a specific race.

 

The Crown race is a part of the head set for the steerer tube, it is a ring that sits on the lower end of the steerer tube some are split to make fitting easier. Once fitted ( the correct one for your head set should be on your origanl forks you removed) it seats against the lower bearing which has a 45 degree seat angle or some are 36 degrees, in turn this gives a free and easy steering action hence why you should are able to ride hands free.

With out one fitted the steering will be very torqy,stiff and unpredictable eventually leading to loss of direction and control, riding hands free will be virtually impossible and if you try it you will end up hitting the tarmac.

 

The RS Tora fork is the next level up from the popular entry level RS Dart so should be a bit better, reviews I find can be bias against some of the lower end components soley because of price.

 

Oh yes sorry I have a crown race but didn't fit very well actually. The bearing allowed smooth turning but it might be temporary.

 

So getting this is my best bet?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/rock-shox-tora-289-forks-/251763966485?&_trksid=p2056016.l4276#ht_108wt_1190

But isn't that still designed for a 26" wheel, and still has a lot of suspension travel pushing the front up in the air? The bike will still look a bit like it's sitting on its rear and the geometry will be all over the place - who knows what it will track like or indeed if it will turn corners.

 

I personally think that you should either try and find a fork the same length as the original, with or more likely without suspension. Run fatter tyres for more comfort. That way the bike will still handle something like it is supposed to, instead of being a wheelie machine with stretched front wheel.

 

Michael

Oh yes sorry I have a crown race but didn't fit very well actually. The bearing allowed smooth turning but it might be temporary.

 

So getting this is my best bet?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/rock-shox-tora-289-forks-/251763966485?&_trksid=p2056016.l4276#ht_108wt_1190

 

Yes without the crown race in situ the steering will feel fine turning unloaded but once you get on it to ride then it will become loaded and then you will notice what a crap idea it is not to have one in place.

 

Someone got a very reasonable fork for £25 & £9.99 p&p and yes I would say RS over Suntour esp for off road stuff. RS are good as I believe parent company is Sram as well as it is toTruvativ.

  • Author

aaah great thanks. A bit more expensive but I suppose that's as far as I can go.

 

Is 50mm travel enough for potholes at 30mph? I was thinking a 26" fork with 100mm travel may be better?

For geometry they would suit your needs better, at 30mph pots could do serious damage to a wheel, I tend to take avoiding action by positioning myself before I get to them if other users have to wait or slow down behind me then so be it.
  • Author

Yes.. but it's going to be close double the price of the other entry level shock because it comes from china. Also, if I don't like it, it won't be re-sellable.

 

With forks such as rockshox I'm sure I'd at least get something back if that doesn't fit me...

 

I think I better order the rockshox. And with the one on ebay, there is even a return policy if I don't like. That won't be possible with something coming from Taiwan.

No cwah, don't get the Rockshox. It's the wrong fork for your bike. 26" pushes the geometry way out, and 100mm travel pushes it out further. You don't need 100mm for potholes because your wheel size of 20" is the limiting factor.

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