Yes looks much cleaner.

 

I did the battery myself with us18650V3 cells. I've choosed them in the past because they were cheap and have good life cycle. I may buy ncr18650b if I can.

 

The pack is a 9×14s = 126 cells and 1000 wh.

 

Which is a decent contender from my other pack.

The tape wrapping the battery to the aluminium board teared down. I tried heavy duty tape but it still can't handle vibration from bike and also split apart.

 

I need some sort of heavy duty Velcro or belt to keep the battery on the aluminium board. Something that keep it on the bike but where I could have a quick release to take the battery out.

 

Any idea of a strong heavy duty with quick release strap/belt?

Picture of the pack with tape all teared down

https://www.dropbox.com/s/icckmqu4h2fk9qd/2014-09-11%2018.32.38.jpg?dl=0

 

Need to find a solution

Quite a bit of weight to keep in one place without wanting to shift !!!

I liked d8veh's solution for rear battery holder which I saw at Redbridge.

A ply base board that fits in the bottom of a sports boot zip bag this is then bolted through to the carrier, any sloppieness of the battery can be padded with foam.

I'd have thought you'd need something, such as velcro, to stop the battery sliding on the base and then a strap to hold it down securely.

 

I use a rack pack with Velcro attachment and put a cam bucle strap around it. It's held a 5kg battery secure for several years. The straps are easy to tighten and quick to release.

 

Cam Buckle Strap

Thanks for the reference. I purchased the most heavy duty one:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/301292242413?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

That looks very. Wouldn't a couple of these be better? They're quick release too.

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1-set-2-5m-Side-release-Luggage-Suitcase-Tie-Down-Strap-/180699532973?pt=UK_TravelTickets_Accessories_RL&var=&hash=item2a12880ead

or a couple of these:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Black-10-Pcs-20x450MM-Velcro-Tie-Down-Straps-Cam-Buckle-Wrap-Band-luggage-Strap-/231118854157?pt=UK_TravelTickets_Accessories_RL&hash=item35cfc1d80d

Update on my conversion:

- I have dual big apples. It looks like it does take longer to worn out. But I only have them since 3 weeks. Time will tell.

- All sine wave controller I tried to date are damn bad. They are noisy over 75V, do not regen and/or are less efficient. I'm using back square wave controller.

 

Rear seat is finally installed (D8veh licensing!):

 

 

As you can see, I used 2 aluminium tube because I'm planning to convert it to rear seat. I'm going to have a test subject very soon.

 

Same for the rear trolley, I'm using this silverline one:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B000LFYO7E/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

For now, all seem good. I did a 30 mn run with strong start, max speed at 30mph, potholes, start&stops... It holds it well.

 

Next stage, get a test subject and put some luggages on it. I hope it's going to hold it. And it's 3 years warranties anyway

farting nora that's brave, I'd have loved to see the test run with the unsuspecting trolly finding itself doing 30 mph on a potholed street...thanks for the detailed write up, it helps loads with my work in progress

Thanks guys, I have my 2 straps now, it's working nicely!

 

I can even put my work bag on top:

 

I can fold my bike in my room:

 

 

Now I need a tool to remove my single speed to put a multi-speed:

 

Any idea where to get a good cheap one? thanks

My rear rack is wobbling!!

 

Do you have any idea how I can fix that? I fear it may falls on the floor someday!

no ideas?

All your clamps and struts are loose. You need to fix them tight.

the aluminium rods start to break apart...

 

maybe i should get stainless steel? or did i install them incorrectly?

With the weight of your battery, normal steel tube would be best.

My handlebar is down :(

 

I tried to put a allen key to open the screw on the bottom but it doesn't work

 

Not sure if the bolt can be removed actually... do I need some sort of giant allen key on the top?

Removed it finally:

 

 

What should I do next? Any good and cheap fork to buy?

Thinking again, maybe I don't need to keep the folding stem. Maybe I can just get a longer fork with 120mm travel:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SR-Suntour-XCR-TA-80-120mm-IS-STANDARD-SUPER-PRICE-FOR-HQ-ONLY-HERE-/301366271146?pt=UK_sportsleisure_cycling_bikeparts_SR&hash=item462ad45caa

 

And have the bike higher. Feasible?

I had a ridgeback folder which is the same bike as your Dahon just rebaged. I had a similar problem with the handlebar fold mechanism snapping. It's a common problem. It's a design flaw as far as I could see, I had a friend weld it but it only lasted a few weeks.

I tried to remove the fork and the bearing from the bottom fall off

 

I've lost a lot of little bearings ball:

 

where can i find cheap replacement???

Hello all,

 

I have changed the fork of my dahon jetstream to allow front disc brake and better suspension:

 

It doesn't look as nice as I hoped... so I have few questions:

- Would the frame hold the weight with the new geometry? It does look like a lot of weight will be managed by the middle of the frame and I fear it may break someday in the middle?

- Is it better to have 20" or 26" front wheel? The fork is for 20" wheel

- The bottom of the fork doesn't completely fit inside the frame (it ends wider), is that normal? And what can I do?

 

 

Thanks guys

There's no extra weight on the frame. It's all on the wheel, which can easily take it. It looks awesome. Can we see some more photos from the side in the daylight?

Just thnking about it, I think you've made a mistake. The steerer tube is designed to have the lower bearing at the bottom of the steerer tube where you have some spacers. Where you have it, the tube is slightly narrower, so there will be some play in the bearings, which might affect the steering. You should remve all the spacers from below the seering head and put them above it.

 

20" wheel would probably be best, but they're not easy to find with a disc hub, so if you can't find one, dismantle the hub from an unused 26" wheel (or buy a new hub) and build it onto a 20" BMX rim. It would look even more awesome if you had matching wider BMX rims front and rear providing that there's enough space for a wider BMX tyre in the back. That would give a lot more grip too.

In endless sphere they advise to completely change the fork as it is likely to lead to a catastrophic failure:

http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=65560&p=985597#p985597

 

Shall I listen to them and find another fork?

I thought you had put spacers under the steering head, but now I can see in the bigger ES photo that you have a tapered steerer. Although it's not right, I can't see any reason for it to fail. The lower bearing piece will sit tight on the taper, so you won't get the problem I mentioned before. The only thing that I can think of is that the front wheel is a long way from the steering head, which gives it more leverage under braking. The steering head is well braced by the box section frame, so the frame should be OK. I'm pretty sure that the forks will be strong enough too, so I reckon it should be OK. To be sure, you should check the welds that join the frame to the head tube from time to time for as long as you have the bike, because they might eventually crack. Once cracks start, doom will come soon after.