Ajax, it isn't really a case of lowering the brightness, but more of a case of lowering the beam direction so as not to dazzle people.

 

Well this idea of beam is relative. There isn't that much of a beam so much as wide spread of light. see the pics in the ebay link. One of those pics shows the bike's light next to a car's.

 

The cyclist compared to a driver sits quite high up, ditto those lights which when compared to a typical car's is that much higher up. Right in the face of the on coming driver. Think about it, everytime you twitch that handle bar you are redirecting that 'beam' , which is so unlike a car. I think this situation is pecular to ebikes which will runs these lights from the battery at much higher voltages.

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12V-led-h...982?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item23422a843e

 

This isn't even a single 3w led bead, but four of them.

Edited October 15, 201411 yr by Ajax

Now i am stuck with how to reduce the lighting for normal riding.

 

Judging by the ebay spec sheet, the leds are BrigeLux 45mil chip,

which means each led takes about 3v. Which suggest with a 12v input, that they are being wired in series.

 

If they were wired in parallel i could remove 1 or 2 leds from the circuit, however if i did that with them in series, it would mean too much voltage to the remaining leds. I could try using resistors to divide the input voltage but the light's controller is there to normalise the output voltage at 12v.

 

This means the only way to lower the brightness is to put some gaffer tape over the headlight. Talk about Heath Robinson.

 

Can anyone think of a less current wasting method of lowering the brightness on these beads?

If you can break into the 12v side of the circuit I would be tempted to fit one of these for $1 aud.

Specs are from a different Aussie seller but for the same device:

 

-Brand Single LED strip controller

-5 dynamic modes

-6 level speed

-8 level brightness

-Auto memorize function

-12V 12A Output up to 144 watts

-Easily change mode, speed and brightness by pressing 3 keys on its

ultra slim body

 

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Mini-LED-Single-Color-Dimmer-Controller-12V-For-5050-3528-LED-Light-Strips-N-/261509061709?pt=AU_Boat_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3ce3279c4d

Now i am stuck with how to reduce the lighting for normal riding.

 

Judging by the ebay spec sheet, the leds are BrigeLux 45mil chip,

which means each led takes about 3v. Which suggest with a 12v input, that they are being wired in series.

 

If they were wired in parallel i could remove 1 or 2 leds from the circuit, however if i did that with them in series, it would mean too much voltage to the remaining leds. I could try using resistors to divide the input voltage but the light's controller is there to normalise the output voltage at 12v.

 

This means the only way to lower the brightness is to put some gaffer tape over the headlight. Talk about Heath Robinson.

 

Can anyone think of a less current wasting method of lowering the brightness on these beads?

Good find on the LEDs. The Bridgelux 4545 LEDs have a forward voltage of about 3.4V at maximum power according to the datasheets (which don't give a maximum luminous flux, strangely), and a maximum drive current of 700mA. Each LED therefore is just under 2.4 watts. Figure approximately 100 lumens per watt and they would be kicking out 240 lumens each, or 960 for the entire light.

 

LEDs aren't like halogen bulbs - they require very careful current driving, and so are (almost) never wired direct to batteries in this sort of application, even with resistors, but instead utilise an LED driver to control the current. You'd have to have a look at the LED star itself to see if they are wired in series or parallel and therefore presenting either a 13.6V 700mA load or a 3.4V 2.8A load.

 

Does the light not have any control button on it? Virtually all of these drivers have multiple modes.

 

Michael

Yes. I am also thinking about the effects of bright lights to on coming traffic in the rain. Its one thing to sell these things based on their lux per buck, but i wonder where the end users stand legally.

 

Maybe there should be a catagory of lighting refered to as 'off road' 'lighting, with an idea of what might be termed 'reasonable' lighting.

 

As most cities are preaty well light, it seems to me the real purpose of lighting is to be seen by other motorists without causing them momentary blindness.[/quo

 

I know people worry about how bright there lights are but I'm not one of them, the lights I run are 5000 lumens and darkness doesn't exist !! which is good for me as 5 miles of my 10 mile commute to work is through unlit country lanes and very dark and so called bright lights of 100 lumens are just not good enough and for me not worth having !! People sometimes shout about how bright they are (and I only use a 1/3 power when in town)but that just reassures me that everyone can see me? and I also put it on flashing during the day and its still very bright. BUT YOU CANT MISS ME. Below is the one I use and they are very good you can get them on ebay from 14.95 to 20.00 so god value.

I know people worry about how bright there lights are but I'm not one of them, the lights I run are 5000 lumens and darkness doesn't exist !!

Those lights are actually 2,000 emitter lumens (about 1,700 to 1,800 out the front) not 5,000. However they are still painfully bright. In effect you're cycling round with the equivalent of a car main beam on all the time. It may actually hinder safety because the light is so dazzling drivers won't be able to see anything else, like the curb or other cyclists.

 

Michael

Good find on the LEDs. The Bridgelux 4545 LEDs have a forward voltage of about 3.4V at maximum power according to the datasheets (which don't give a maximum luminous flux, strangely), and a maximum drive current of 700mA. Each LED therefore is just under 2.4 watts. Figure approximately 100 lumens per watt and they would be kicking out 240 lumens each, or 960 for the entire light.

 

LEDs aren't like halogen bulbs - they require very careful current driving, and so are (almost) never wired direct to batteries in this sort of application, even with resistors, but instead utilise an LED driver to control the current. You'd have to have a look at the LED star itself to see if they are wired in series or parallel and therefore presenting either a 13.6V 700mA load or a 3.4V 2.8A load.

 

Does the light not have any control button on it? Virtually all of these drivers have multiple modes.

 

Michael

 

If there is a button it will be in the heat shrinked package, which i have not opened. There is nothing like you would expect, if this were a controllable feature.

If you can break into the 12v side of the circuit I would be tempted to fit one of these for $1 aud.

Specs are from a different Aussie seller but for the same device:

 

-Brand Single LED strip controller

-5 dynamic modes

-6 level speed

-8 level brightness

-Auto memorize function

-12V 12A Output up to 144 watts

-Easily change mode, speed and brightness by pressing 3 keys on its

ultra slim body

 

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Mini-LED-Single-Color-Dimmer-Controller-12V-For-5050-3528-LED-Light-Strips-N-/261509061709?pt=AU_Boat_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3ce3279c4d

 

Good find, thanks I'll see if this can be worked into the lighting

controls.

 

A blink mode is better than a canstant beam if you just want

to be noticed by other road users. That said, a high intensity beam

that's also blinks, might not allow you to adjust to the brightness.

The dimmer part of this circuit would have to work too. At this

price i can afford to experiment.

 

Here's a uk source.

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12V-Ultra-Slim-Mini-LED-Controller-Dimmer-Single-Colour-3528-5050-Strip-Light-UK-/370979750489?pt=UK_Home_Garden_Night_Lights_Fairy_Lights&hash=item56601dc259

The nights are drawing in, and soon people will be asking about the best lights. Here's a new one from Banggood for £12.41 including postage:

http://www.banggood.com/LED10-U_S-CREE-U2-Chip-10W-Motorcycle-Headlight-Motor-Lamps-HiLo-Beam-p-936965.html

It's much neater than their previous ones and looks to be waterproof too. It comes with various bracketry. I modified one to fix it to the fork crown. Apart from it's exceptionally bright light from the Cree U2 emitter, it's main advantage is that you can connect it to your bike's battery with a switch on one wire to turn it on and off.

 

I have a torch with three Cree T6 emitters. They both give out about the same amount of light, but the Banggood one has a brighter narrower middle. The spread of light away from the middle is about the same.

 

For those of you that have never tried a light with a Cree T6 emitter, you have to recalibrate your brain to understand the amount of light that comes out of these. Forget your bike shop, Aldi and Magic Shine lights. You wouldn't even know they're on when this one's around.

 

This is the LED10 light. There's also a LED 20 that I think has a bigger emitter (12w instead of 7w), and if that's not enough, there's the LED 100 and 200, which I believe run at higher current (10w and 15w) because they have an extra heatsink on the back.

 

http://i451.photobucket.com/albums/qq236/d8veh/lights/20140911_1405131_zpsd0f4ea34.jpg

 

Hi d8veh - mine arrived yesterday

 

Can I ask how you got it attached to the fork please ?

I chose this for my pedal cycle.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4-x-Cree-XML-XM-L-T6-LED-5200Lm-Bicycle-Bike-Lamp-HeadLamp-Head-Light-/400554413825?pt=UK_SportGoods_CyclAcces_RL&hash=item5d42e74f01

 

It is cheap. Comes with a charger. One and a half hours run time on max brightness. Three modes. LOW POWER,which is still quite bright for town use. HIGH POWER WHICH IS MEGA BRIGHT, for country lanes and tracks. STROBE which is flashing on high power. This mode would quickly do your head in. Does not cause dazzle on low power. Lamp mounts on handlebar by rubber strap, so easy to dip the whole lamp as required.

 

Only downside. On high power, tends to set fire to hedges, dogs and pedestrians.Very good value.

Edited October 22, 201411 yr by neptune

I chose this for my pedal cycle.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4-x-Cree-XML-XM-L-T6-LED-5200Lm-Bicycle-Bike-Lamp-HeadLamp-Head-Light-/400554413825?pt=UK_SportGoods_CyclAcces_RL&hash=item5d42e74f01

Absolutely daft bike light. If the cells will stand up to producing 3A per cell and the lamphead can dissipate 40W of heat then you'll be looking at pretty much bang on 4,000 lumens emitter output. More than a car's main beam headlights, both combined. Yes, low would be plenty in town!

 

Michael

In practice light power, like all power needs to be handled responsibly. My eyesight is very poor, which is why I quit driving. I sometimes ride on dark country lanes. There are no streetlights. The darkness on these lanes is such that most city dwellers have never seen anything like it. So I feel entitled to use as much light as a car driver as long as I do not dazzle other road users.

 

Even when using high power, I tend to keep the main part of the beam focussed about twenty feet in front of me, rather than parallel with the road surface. If a vehicle approaches from the front, I either tilt the lamp further down, or switch to low power by pressing the illuminated button on the rear of the lamp. The lamp shell is aluminium, and acts a heatsink. It does get quite warm, so a fair amount of watts is being dissipated. Incidentally, the lamp comes with a harness so it can be used as a head torch, with the battery pack in your pocket.

 

To sum up, IMO this is a great effective lamp at a low price, provided it is used responsibly.

Ok, so I have finally got to the end of this thread and feel I can provide some interesting feedback for you all.

 

d8veh has linked to this a recommended product:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2000-Lumen-CREE-XML-T6-LED-BICYCLE-BIKE-CYCLING-FRONT-HEAD-LIGHT-TORCH-HEADLIGHT-/321484671361?pt=UK_SportGoods_CyclAcces_RL&hash=item4ad9fac981

 

(Single Cree LED Light)

 

neptune has linked to this as a product

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4-x-Cree-XML-XM-L-T6-LED-5200Lm-Bicycle-Bike-Lamp-HeadLamp-Head-Light-/400554413825?pt=UK_SportGoods_CyclAcces_RL&hash=item5d42e74f01

 

(4 Cree LED Light)

 

Now for my 2 pence worth:

 

(Comparing all lights with batteries supplied with them)

 

I purchased a Moon XP-1500 18 months ago and it has been very good to me. Love it. Battery case and cable got damaged at the start of summer so I looked for a cheaper replacement/ backup while I sorted out the battery for this again. Found both of the products above and bought 2 of the single LED versions and 1 of the 4 LED version.

 

Single LED Version on Overdrive is comparable to Moon XP on Mid Setting).

4 LED Version is brighter than Moon XP for a central spot when aiming at wall 1m away, 5m away the difference is not that noticeable and when looking 10m away, or bike mounted and focused on the road, the Moon XP-1500 kicks the 4 Cree LED light all the way down the street.

The reason is simple. The 4 Cree LEDs are arranged to flood a circular area and so will always dazzle on coming drivers whilst not lighting up the road enough to the side, the Moon is designed to have a low flat wide beam so that the verges are light whilst not loosing light up.

 

Personal Order of preference

1) Moon XP-1500

2) Cree 4 LED

3) Cree 1 LED

 

But I could change that if could reshape beam from Cree 4 LED with sensible reflection and add a handlebar on/off switch (I doubt it though).

 

Also have bought 3m of EL wire last week (currently powered from AA batteries but could power from e-bike battery) to wrap around frame triangle to make bike visible from the side as I cycle through town.

 

Currently feeling like the fairy on top of the Christmas tree (but safer!)

 

James

Personal Order of preference

1) Moon XP-1500

2) Cree 4 LED

3) Cree 1 LED

 

But I could change that if could reshape beam from Cree 4 LED with sensible reflection and add a handlebar on/off switch (I doubt it though).

 

You can reshape the beam on the single cree light with one of these, don't know whether it would work on the 4 cree light. I use one on a single cree in the hope it prevents me from dazzling oncoming drivers.

 

http://www.amazon.co.uk/SEEN-ANGLE-DIFFUSER-LUMEN-LIGHTS/dp/B00DQ5IGMU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1416349643&sr=8-1&keywords=bike+light+diffuser

There's no switch. You can put an in-line jack plug and socket on the cable, and just plug it in when you need it, or you need to wire a switch to it.

 

Wiring like this:

 

[ATTACH=full]9680[/ATTACH]

nice diagram and thx for that, my problem is i have three wires coming from the unit, black , blue & white, unsure which is the Red (brown or live) and whether the black is really the black so to speak, have come across strange combinations of colours on e-bike circuitry, any suggestions would be most appreciated,

beeps

s'ok, sourced my answer... the black is neg, the blue is for full wattage, the white is lo wattage, will need a three pole bar mounted rocker switch, anyone know of a good one ?

 

my thx in advance,

beeps

 

finding my wheels electric

found this:

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/231379957989?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

 

looks a little pricey, any others...?

found this:

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/231379957989?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

 

looks a little pricey, any others...?

 

any of these any better for you?

 

http://www.banggood.com/78-Motorcycle-Handlebar-Accident-Hazard-Light-Switch-ON-OFF-Button-p-947795.html

 

http://www.banggood.com/Universal-Handlebar-Motorcycle-Kill-Switch-p-949444.html

 

http://www.banggood.com/78-Handlebar-Motorcycle-Scooter-ATV-Headlight-ON-OFF-Kill-Switch-p-954623.html

 

or this looks cheaper and is on ebay as the same item in a different place for the switch that d8veh linked to earlier in the thread:

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Universal-Motorcycle-Kill-ON-OFF-Switch-Button-Handlebar-Mount-Bullet-Connector/351195138428?_trksid=p2047675.c100011.m1850&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D28111%26meid%3Db01628e0caf24d8dbd443234e76229de%26pid%3D100011%26prg%3D11472%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D10%26sd%3D390862657594

Edited November 25, 201411 yr by JamesW

I chose this for my pedal cycle.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4-x-Cree-XML-XM-L-T6-LED-5200Lm-Bicycle-Bike-Lamp-HeadLamp-Head-Light-/400554413825?pt=UK_SportGoods_CyclAcces_RL&hash=item5d42e74f01

 

It is cheap. Comes with a charger. One and a half hours run time on max brightness. Three modes. LOW POWER,which is still quite bright for town use. HIGH POWER WHICH IS MEGA BRIGHT, for country lanes and tracks. STROBE which is flashing on high power. This mode would quickly do your head in. Does not cause dazzle on low power. Lamp mounts on handlebar by rubber strap, so easy to dip the whole lamp as required.

 

Only downside. On high power, tends to set fire to hedges, dogs and pedestrians.Very good value.

 

Neptune, I run one of those lights for off road use along side my Fenix. A guy that I met up with last week also uses two of them for off road riding. As an off road light the are superb.

 

The guy did raise an issue that I hadn't even considered. He said that he had ruined two batteries on one particularly wet rainy ride. The base and top of the batteries aren't sealed, and I guess could benefit from an application of silicon sealant or similar?

Neptune, I run one of those lights for off road use along side my Fenix. A guy that I met up with last week also uses two of them for off road riding. As an off road light the are superb.

 

The guy did raise an issue that I hadn't even considered. He said that he had ruined two batteries on one particularly wet rainy ride. The base and top of the batteries aren't sealed, and I guess could benefit from an application of silicon sealant or similar?

 

I just poke those sort of batteries inside a sandwich bag and tie a knot in the top around where the cable comes out, then I put it back into the battery holder that ships with it and mount it on my bike. Keeps the nice and dry in all weathers when I am using them. (I also make sure the cable route out under the battery within the holder bag so that the plastic bag is naturally free draining if any water gets in there but the other bag holds the battery in by gravity!) - makes it easy to maintain/dismantle if required without having to worry about silicone caused chemical reactions.

 

James

Also have bought 3m of EL wire last week (currently powered from AA batteries but could power from e-bike battery) to wrap around frame triangle to make bike visible from the side as I cycle through town.

 

Currently feeling like the fairy on top of the Christmas tree (but safer!)

 

James

 

Upgraded from EL Wire to LED tape. White at the front red at the back.

That tape is much brighter than El

 

Nice one

without having to worry about silicone caused chemical reactions.

 

Excuse my ignorance about the following, as I have never heard of it until now, but what chemical reaction?

Being ultra cautious... If you mix 2 chemicals of unknown type what happens? ... Besides a food bag is quicker flatter and cheaper than a whole tube of silicone if you have no other user for it! - and I get an allergic reaction to silicone!

Excuse my ignorance about the following, as I have never heard of it until now, but what chemical reaction?

Danger is with acid curing silicone. Explanation in post #2 here: http://www.renovateforum.com/f205/neutral-cure-vs-acidic-cure-silicone-56863/

That tape is much brighter than El

 

Nice one

I have a hidden switch under to frame to turn it on. It's one length of white with two lengths of red all wired in series to the main 36v battery (via the switch).