Hello, please does anyone know whether spare battery output sockets for the CST HT 36V 13Ah battery are available? (the floating socket that pushes onto the controller pins). I have three packs, two have intermittent connections on the positive wire side output (loose socket contact force felt with some 3mm copper wire) and ocasionally intermittent power loss in use.

 

I've ordered some 3 mm bullet female crimps in case they can be used to repair them somehow? - will find out soon (I do frequently remove the battery packs to swap when carrying a second in a backpack or when putting the bike into the car)

 

Also would be keen to buy the plastic slide plate for the packs to slide onto if possible, lots of superglue holding pieces of mine together!

 

(Contact us not working on Oxydrive, I send Das-Kit an email asking if spare sockets are available, but no answer)

Buying new sockets will be a hell of a lot easier if any are available, but I've fixed an intermittent output socket contact with brute force:

 

3mm female bullet crimp: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00UONOFHM

1. Turn off and open battery pack, cut off heatshrink, and unsolder the two wires from the output socket

2. Warm socket with hot air gun and dig out the grey plastic from around the six socket solder pins

3. Cut/lever apart the two plastic halves of the socket (warm again first)

4. Heat a little with soldering iron and pull out the loose socket insert (tell which one is loose using 3mm copper wire)

5. With drill bit held in pliers, widen hole with 4.0, 4.5 and then 5.0 drill bits (but dont drill through the front face plastic)

6. Grind off 1mm from front of new crip with Dremel so socket contact pressure point is closer to the front (otherwise probably won't make a good connection onto the controller pin)

7. Insert crimp into hole

8. Squeeze together the wire end of the crimp to close the open gap (to later solder into)

9. Apply superglue and hold two plastic halves together with needle pliers

10. Unroll the front of a second socket crimp and cut off to create an approx 10x10mm plate

11. Cut small middle pins as short as possible to avoid short circuits to the plate

12. Glue plate to plastic sides to restrain the new crimp socket from pushing out

13. Resolder wires (+ and - are marked on the front of the socket plastic, the + side locates on the charger input side of the battery pack)

14. Use Dremel grinding wheel to remove a little plastic on the case to allow the connector to refit with the added plate

Squashing the existing insert might be an option, will see later if the original contact pressure can be increased with pliers?

Does anyone know what the options are for getting more speed out of the oxydrive kit. I average 21mph but would like to squeeze a bit more out of it. I was wondering if changing the battery to 48v would work, if there are other batteries that fit the oxydrive battery attachment Or if it’s possible to re cell the current battery to 48v?

An average speed of 21 mph sounds pretty good to me. The max speed on mine was initially 22 mph. Now, it's more like 19 mph. I assume it's the battery getting old..

It was an okay speed until I got over taken by a road biker ...and then some! Never happened on my cyclotricity stealth

If going 48v you will need a new controller which means a KT fitted remotely and an lcd3.

The 8Fun Cst is code 10 270rpm.

 

The DAS battery will hold 52 cells for a 4p 13s config thought he plastic cell spacer/seperater will ahve to be forfeited and cells will have to be packed tight together which I plan on doing one day, as I actually prefer the case shape compared to the Dolphin 09 case.

My choice of cell will be GA or VTC6.

Edited August 11, 20187 yr by Nealh

Cheers Nealth

 

Not keen on having a separate controller positioned on the bike. Like the clean cut look of the system. What happens to the current controller?

You would have to remove the controller from the mounting base unit to make use of it. The + & - wire tails inside then need extending/soldering to reach the ext controller ones.

Existing one will go up in smoke if you connect 48v to it.

I'm splitting my OXYDrive F-series 13Ah kit (because the controller stopped working.)

 

I still have the Motor and the battery (with upgraded charger) if anyone interested PM me and we can make a deal. ( u need to collect it from North London, n29fe )

 

cheers

I have a used Oxydrive C302 lcd spare from my CST kit, the integrated controller went wrong so now I have gone over to using KT components. It has six pas levels and 3 current levels.

 

P.M if of use or interested.

Do you still have the 302 led available?

Although the Oxydrive kit for me is no longer, I am still using the bullet proof CST hub. Today I fitted a CarryFreedom tow hitch and had to do some work/adjustment on the brake side to fit and align everything (the Dremel type tool came out of the box ), whilst I had the wheel removed noticed the tyre carcass brown belt was showing here and there so changed that.

 

Having put over 6.5 k on the hub I decided why not and took the wheel into the garage where I gave it a little service and inspection, 20 mins later job done.

The inside was perfect grease still plentiful smeared all over the shot and no signs of any water ingress (bike is used for errand and commuting 52 weeks a year in all weather). Bearings all tickety boo and rotating smoothly, the hub carrier for the cassette easily comes away and this was a little noisy so I dipped the end in some liquid grease and refitted. Now runs rotates virtually silent, there is little to do except check relevant bearings and grease if required.

 

Process for removing the drive is straight forward. Remove cassette and undo locknuts from hub carrier along with washers, slide off cassette hub carrier. Undo the six outer screws on the face plate, leave the three middle ones unless you want to fiddle about with the clutch etc.

On brake side remove the axle black retaining nut and biff the axle with a rubber or wooden mallet ( if need be), motor will either slide out easily or pop out if tight once axle is biffed. If water has ingressed then rust will be your enemy and if it does not part after biffing try a harder whack or use some heat from a hot air gun. With the motor out check the main centre bearing for smoothness and also brake side bearing, around the centre you can see the 16 motor magnets. Motor windings are clear to see and should generally be void of discoloration/burning. If adding more grease or cleaning old grease out use a non petroleum based one other wise the nylon clutch gears will suffer ( I use low friction lithium dark moly grease ). For bearings although sealed I give the faces a smear of pale liquid grease and also the same for the cassette hub carrier. Before refitting the cassette retainer nut I smear some white waterproof greases in the recess then tighten up. Motor should be good for another 3k before another once over.

 

Refitting is reversal though you need to align the axle key way for the motor assembly to slide in.

Edited July 27, 20196 yr by Nealh

Ok I have a minor issue with my OD kit which has been happening for some time now. I have not posted anything about it previously as I have been trying to get some good feedback to assist with diagnosis but I have not managed to get very far with this.

 

Every now and then, and only ever when on 4 bars or more of load, I get a total loss of power. However it is only for a fraction of a second and always returns to power. I have never seen any error codes on the display, even temporarily. It feels just like some sort of over-current safety feature but the fact that the power always returns immediately without any change in circumstances does not suggest this. I am confident it is not a wiring plug issue as they have all been apart at various times over the months, all the connections are clean and shiny and all are fully seated. It doesnt happen every time I am 4+ bars load either which I know will make it a pain to diagnose, all I can say is that it has never happened on 1 to 3 bars of load. This rules out anything to do with the PAS disc or sensor I think.

 

Holy thread resurrection!

Hi all, been away for some time, have gotten heavily into electric unicycles for my sins and havent been on the bike at all, but went out on it the other day and this problem persists. I do however have a little more info now. If anyone has any suggestions it would be greatly appreciated!

 

So, in addition to what I have posted previously, I saw that when this happens the LCD speed jumps about all over the place, up to 50+ mph at times, and when it does so I see the power meter drop off and thus all happens at the same time as the assist totally cuts. Within less than a second, everything goes back to normal and then process repeats, within seconds if the same load is being applied. I know its not the mag disc/sensor as its exactly the same when I hold the throttle open.

 

I opened the controller today and nothing untoward found. Plus all the components are sealed in a clear rubbery gel too. Mosfets look fine and no signs of overheat anywhere.

 

As before, all battery and plug connections are perfect and I am still getting amazing mileage from the battery.

 

Really scratching my head now. Should I open up the hub motor? Could it be sending a weird speed signal to the controller? Or is it more likely to be the LCD display?

 

Its a right pain as the problem still manifests primarily when under load, hills and such which is largly the main reason for having an ebike!

Holy thread resurrection!

Hi all, been away for some time, have gotten heavily into electric unicycles for my sins and havent been on the bike at all, but went out on it the other day and this problem persists. I do however have a little more info now. If anyone has any suggestions it would be greatly appreciated!

 

So, in addition to what I have posted previously, I saw that when this happens the LCD speed jumps about all over the place, up to 50+ mph at times, and when it does so I see the power meter drop off and thus all happens at the same time as the assist totally cuts. Within less than a second, everything goes back to normal and then process repeats, within seconds if the same load is being applied. I know its not the mag disc/sensor as its exactly the same when I hold the throttle open.

 

I opened the controller today and nothing untoward found. Plus all the components are sealed in a clear rubbery gel too. Mosfets look fine and no signs of overheat anywhere.

 

As before, all battery and plug connections are perfect and I am still getting amazing mileage from the battery.

 

Really scratching my head now. Should I open up the hub motor? Could it be sending a weird speed signal to the controller? Or is it more likely to be the LCD display?

 

Its a right pain as the problem still manifests primarily when under load, hills and such which is largly the main reason for having an ebike!

Holy Hand grenade batman!

I used to experience exactly this issue - it only happens when the motor is stalling - calling for too much current at a low speed, so going up hill with a high speed setting. Drop the power down to 1 or 2 as needed.

Thanks for the reply. When you say drop the power are you referring to the 3 power settings which are accessed by the menu, or do you actually mean the 6 speed settings accessed directly from the home screen?

 

I have always had my power on setting 3 as it gives me access to the highest speed when in 1 of the 6 speed settings. I dont really want to faff with menus every time I hit a hill.

 

Also did you screen show the speed going all over the place?

 

I must admit it feels exactly like a firmware overcurrent cut out but it doesnt seem to occur at the same load. Yes, its normally always under high loads but I dont think it has to be the same amount of load.

 

Maybe I will have to try and carry out some repeatability tests at the same speed on the same hill with the only variable being the speed setting?

 

All of it doesnt explain why the speed reading would fluctuate wildly either?!!

Thanks for the reply. When you say drop the power are you referring to the 3 power settings which are accessed by the menu, or do you actually mean the 6 speed settings accessed directly from the home screen?

 

I have always had my power on setting 3 as it gives me access to the highest speed when in 1 of the 6 speed settings. I dont really want to faff with menus every time I hit a hill.

 

Also did you screen show the speed going all over the place?

 

I must admit it feels exactly like a firmware overcurrent cut out but it doesnt seem to occur at the same load. Yes, its normally always under high loads but I dont think it has to be the same amount of load.

 

Maybe I will have to try and carry out some repeatability tests at the same speed on the same hill with the only variable being the speed setting?

 

All of it doesnt explain why the speed reading would fluctuate wildly either?!!

Yeah, drop from 6 to 1 or 2. Yes the speed went all over the place - I think because the crank is hardly moving when you approach stall it can't actually measure anything properly - it only happens when I hit a hill and don't have enough speed or I'm in the wrong gear - exactly like a stall

Cheers but this was happening at around 10 to 15mph at a fairly decent cadence. And speed is read off the motor not the crank.

 

Interesting to hear you had the same issue with speed display though...

Check that your motor connector is pushed in all the way to the marked line.

Yep all connectors must have been checked 10 times by now, all are fully pushed home and pins are in excellent order.