January 11, 20179 yr How long should a chain last on a E-MTB? I took my Shimano Steps mid engine in for a check up, and was told the chain had stretched towards its upper limits, it had on done 1100 KM (Approx 700 Miles), is this normal for an E - MTB?. I have always kept it clean and lubricated with a good quality lubricant suitable for the dusty conditions over here, at this rate of having to replace a chain it is getting expensive. Any comments or suggestions.
January 11, 20179 yr Why not check it yourself, just to be absolutely certain. The tool to do this is very cheap and the procedure easy to carry out: Chain wear indicator tool
January 11, 20179 yr Author They showed me with a chain wear indicator, that is was stretched, i will have to get one for myself, thank you for the Ebay Link.
January 11, 20179 yr If it is not broke, don't fix it. Are you getting any slippage or noise from the chain? If not, there are many more miles left in it. Another consideration is having to have the rear cog or cassette replaced as well. Sometimes a new chain does not marry well with even a slightly worn rear gearset. Better to keep on maintaining your drivetrain until noises and/or slippage rears its ugly head, then replace the components. My old bike went throught a chain and cassette every 2,500 miles. The third time, I replaced the drive cog too (Panasonic mid drive) after having turned it around once. My present Yamaha powered Haibike has 1,200 miles on it and not close to needing a new chain yet.
January 11, 20179 yr Author I had it jump off the front cog a few times, and not always on rough ground, that's why I had it checked.
January 11, 20179 yr I agree with your analysis - dusty conditions are wearing it out quickly. If it jumps get rid of it. I wore out a chain very quickly on a hub motor riding often on sand. You can buy chains and cassettes from bike-discount.de for much cheaper than the LBS, I would buy spares so at any sign of jumping or slippage you can change them yourself.
January 11, 20179 yr Just about all chains show that they're stretched if you use a wear indicator tool. Chain wear is not a problem on a bike with derailleur gears: Take a link out or use the tension adjuster on the back of the derailleur if it's too slack. Its only a problem on a bike with hub gears when you run out of adjustment.
January 11, 20179 yr Do you set off in high gears? If so it's likely that you will be putting a lot of strain on the chain and causing premature wear.
January 11, 20179 yr I've eaten chains in 700 with a hub drive, but that was with sand and no maintenance. You do need to change it when it wears or it'll wear the cassette out as well. You don't need a chain tool though, you can measure with a tape measure or ruler. I follow Sheldon Browns advice, which is: Measure 1ft of chain. This should be 12 complete links. If the chain is 1/16th or less longer than 1ft it's OK. If it more than 1/16th, replace it. If it more than 1/8th, replace the cassette as well. http://sheldonbrown.com/chain-wear.html Sent from my HTC 10 using Tapatalk
January 11, 20179 yr If it is not broke, don't fix it. Are you getting any slippage or noise from the chain? If not, there are many more miles left in it. Another consideration is having to have the rear cog or cassette replaced as well. Sometimes a new chain does not marry well with even a slightly worn rear gearset. Better to keep on maintaining your drivetrain until noises and/or slippage rears its ugly head, then replace the components. My old bike went throught a chain and cassette every 2,500 miles. The third time, I replaced the drive cog too (Panasonic mid drive) after having turned it around once. My present Yamaha powered Haibike has 1,200 miles on it and not close to needing a new chain yet. One aggrees and one disagrees. What part of my post do you not agree with EddiePJ?
January 11, 20179 yr Like Emo Rider I've always run to the death, then changed chain and sprockets/cassettes together. That's typically after several thousand miles. Even my Panasonic crank drive Lafree had done some 6000 miles, including heavy trailer hauling, when I sold it to pedelecs member aaannndddyyy without changing the transmission. .
January 11, 20179 yr Like Emo Rider I've always run to the death, then changed chain and sprockets/cassettes together. That's typically after several thousand miles. Even my Panasonic crank drive Lafree had done some 6000 miles, including heavy trailer hauling, when I sold it to pedelecs member aaannndddyyy without changing the transmission. . I guess it depends how fussy you are, and how much you weigh. When a FUB like me stands on the pedals in a high gear (fewer teeth at the back end) a slippage can be, err...let me put this another way. My soft underparts are precious to me. They don't get much use these days, but I like to keep them in good order, primarily for sentimental reasons. Edited January 12, 20179 yr by Alan Quay
January 11, 20179 yr I guess it depends how fussy you are, and how much you weigh. When a FUB like me stands on the pedals in a high gear (fewer teeth at the back end) a slippage can be, err...let me put this another way. I'm quite light at circa 65 kilos and never slog in a high gear, quickest way to damage knee joints. That Lafree used a hub gear so I used my usual technique of a thick grease coating on the chain, applied with a toothbrush (I usually use a separate toothbrush for that). That stops gritty dirt penetrating the chain and as the grease dries and flakes off, it takes the dirt with it. The chain actually outlived the first hub gear. . Edited January 11, 20179 yr by flecc
January 11, 20179 yr One aggrees and one disagrees. What part of my post do you not agree with EddiePJ? Your disregard and poor attitude toward correct and proper maintenance. By caring for a chain, and replacing regularly, not only do you extend the life of cassette and front sprocket, you also aren't going to end up in a position where a chain is likely to fail when out on a ride.
January 11, 20179 yr Your disregard and poor attitude toward correct and proper maintenance. By caring for a chain, and replacing regularly, not only do you extend the life of cassette and front sprocket, you also aren't going to end up in a position where a chain is likely to fail when out on a ride. "Your disregard and poor attitude toward correct and proper maintenance."!!!!!!??????? Methinks you need to go back and reread my post and then explain to me where I said or implied any such thing. I need this as I do not wish to make the same offensive posting again. Besides, how could someone whom gets 2,500 miles off of a chain and cassette know anything about chain maintenance? Perhaps you could enlighten myself and others about getting an even longer life from a drive train. Having said that, if the op wants to replace his chain at 700 miles, there's no harm in that either. I stand by what I said (and it is supported by others here) and meant no disrespect. No idea why you decided to react the way you did. Cheers and TTFN. Edited January 11, 20179 yr by Emo Rider
January 12, 20179 yr Author "Your disregard and poor attitude toward correct and proper maintenance."!!!!!!??????? Methinks you need to go back and reread my post and then explain to me where I said or implied any such thing. I need this as I do not wish to make the same offensive posting again. Besides, how could someone whom gets 2,500 miles off of a chain and cassette know anything about chain maintenance? Perhaps you could enlighten myself and others about getting an even longer life from a drive train. Having said that, if the op wants to replace his chain at 700 miles, there's no harm in that either. I stand by what I said (and it is supported by others here) and meant no disrespect. No idea why you decided to react the way you did. Cheers and TTFN. Sorry I started this thread, it seems that there are many different opinions I am getting confused!!, however thank you all.
January 12, 20179 yr Sorry I started this thread, it seems that there are many different opinions I am getting confused!!, however thank you all. Sorry about that. I think you get the idea that you have options regarding when you choose to replace your. First and formost, proper maintenance of your chain will maximize its life regardless of operating conditions. There are other threads here that give recommendations on proper chain maintenance. There are differing opinions there too. What is most important is what works for you. Hope this helps, cheers
January 12, 20179 yr Author Sorry about that. I think you get the idea that you have options regarding when you choose to replace your. First and formost, proper maintenance of your chain will maximize its life regardless of operating conditions. There are other threads here that give recommendations on proper chain maintenance. There are differing opinions there too. What is most important is what works for you. Hope this helps, cheers Thanks
January 12, 20179 yr Also there are chains and chains - I have moved from a 5€ KMC bulk pack chain which was lasting about 1000 km to a Wipperman Connex at 10€ which has passed that distance and looks like new, is silent and is still running on factory lubrification (don't tell Eddie...)
January 12, 20179 yr Author Also there are chains and chains - I have moved from a 5€ KMC bulk pack chain which was lasting about 1000 km to a Wipperman Connex at 10€ which has passed that distance and looks like new, is silent and is still running on factory lubrification (don't tell Eddie...) My new chain cost €35, and that is discounted from €40, everything is so expensive over here.
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