Hi everyone,

 

I have been reading the forum for a long while now and have learned loads from it so thanks to everyone who shares their knowledge here. I am asking for your help on this one please as I just can't decide mid-motor or hub!!! I am hoping to bite the bullet in a month or so and would like to be confident I am getting the correct setup. I am technical so hopefully will understand you but please bear with me if i need clarification!!!

 

I commute daily 18km each way and would like to be at around 25mph if possible (on the flat). I have the route and elevation below and also the bike specs. Would really appreciate your thoughts on the best solution.

I weigh in at 95kgs and it's normally 15mph head wind one way or the other!!!!!

 

Many thanks in advance,

M

 

 

CROSSWAY URBAN 100 GENTS

COLORS silk black (white)

FRAME SIZE

52cm

FRAME CROSSWAY URBAN TFS

FORK Aluminium rigid fork

DERAILLEUR Shimano M3000 / Alivio

SHIFTERS Shimano Altus rapidfire

BRAKE LEVER Tektro Auriga

BRAKES Tektro Auriga hydraulic disc brakes - 160mm rotors

CHAINWHEEL Shimano M3000 40-30-22

BBSET Cartridge Bearing

CHAIN KMC X9

HUBS Track style nutted hubs for commuting security

RIM Merida comp Pro D

FREEWHEEL Shimano HG200 11-34

TIRES Maxxis Overdrive 35c reflective strip

SPOKES Black+White stainless

HANDLEBAR STEM Merida Pro - oversize clamp - 17 degree

HANDLEBAR Merida Comp oversize clamp - 660mm wide - 25mm rise

HEADSET Big Conoid semi neck

SEAT POST Merida Pro - 15mm lay back

SADDLE Crossway comfort pro

PEDAL Comfort Alloy triple

 

Start altitude:4 metres

End altitude:123 metres

Maximum altitude:125 metres

Minimum altitude:0 metres

Distance:18.6 km

Total ascent:229 metres

Total descent:110 metres

Maximum gradient ascending:8% at 15.6 km

Maximum gradient descending:7% at 16.1 km

Hi and welcome

 

I've been going through various options myself. Search for the Q128C and oxydrive threads which compared them and various other options. The vendors will be along in a minute too.

 

That bike has an unusual chainwheel with only a 40 being the biggest rather than 50 or 48. I wouldn't expect that to be a quick bike as a result.

 

James

Hi everyone,

 

I have been reading the forum for a long while now and have learned loads from it so thanks to everyone who shares their knowledge here. I am asking for your help on this one please as I just can't decide mid-motor or hub!!! I am hoping to bite the bullet in a month or so and would like to be confident I am getting the correct setup. I am technical so hopefully will understand you but please bear with me if i need clarification!!!

 

I commute daily 18km each way and would like to be at around 25mph if possible (on the flat). I have the route and elevation below and also the bike specs. Would really appreciate your thoughts on the best solution.

I weigh in at 95kgs and it's normally 15mph head wind one way or the other!!!!!

 

Many thanks in advance,

M

 

 

CROSSWAY URBAN 100 GENTS

COLORS silk black (white)

FRAME SIZE

52cm

FRAME CROSSWAY URBAN TFS

FORK Aluminium rigid fork

DERAILLEUR Shimano M3000 / Alivio

SHIFTERS Shimano Altus rapidfire

BRAKE LEVER Tektro Auriga

BRAKES Tektro Auriga hydraulic disc brakes - 160mm rotors

CHAINWHEEL Shimano M3000 40-30-22

BBSET Cartridge Bearing

CHAIN KMC X9

HUBS Track style nutted hubs for commuting security

RIM Merida comp Pro D

FREEWHEEL Shimano HG200 11-34

TIRES Maxxis Overdrive 35c reflective strip

SPOKES Black+White stainless

HANDLEBAR STEM Merida Pro - oversize clamp - 17 degree

HANDLEBAR Merida Comp oversize clamp - 660mm wide - 25mm rise

HEADSET Big Conoid semi neck

SEAT POST Merida Pro - 15mm lay back

SADDLE Crossway comfort pro

PEDAL Comfort Alloy triple

 

Start altitude:4 metres

End altitude:123 metres

Maximum altitude:125 metres

Minimum altitude:0 metres

Distance:18.6 km

Total ascent:229 metres

Total descent:110 metres

Maximum gradient ascending:8% at 15.6 km

Maximum gradient descending:7% at 16.1 km

. You specify 25 mph while all your other measurements are metric had you meant 25 kmhr? If so there are plenty of road worthy reliable ebikes out there . Your total height gain and fall is modest . Any bike with 400 to 500 whr battery will be very suitable. My suggestion is to look at the Raleigh Motus and Captus ranges along with plenty of others

Normally, for commuting, use a hub-motor and for sporting use, use a crank motor. The Q128C at 48v does 22mph with easy pedalling. With hard pedalling on the flat, you can get 25 mph, but I wouldn't want to try and sustain that for 18 km.

 

I'd say that you're right on the boarder of whether a 12Ah battery would be enough for 37 km. It depends how hard you're going to pedal.

 

There's bigger faster motors, but their weight tends to spoil your bike, especially as you'd need a big battery to go with them. There's no point in putting them in a nice bike like yours. They'd be better in a cheap steel bike.

 

Without knowing your feelings on the matter, I'd say that a 36v 201 rpm Q128C for the motor, a 17A PSWPower sine wave controller and a 12Ah 48v battery from Eclipse bikes would suit your bike well, then you'd have to adjust your speed and effort to get the range you need. Cost would be about £600 to £700.

Thanks for the input guys.

 

James I hadn't even noticed that it was a 40 chainring, I presume i can change that out or does that put a stronger case forward for a middrive???

 

Danidl, I really want to build something myself as opposed to buy off the shelf, I'm sure you get that, apologies for imperial/metric measurements I was copying and pasting and thought mph would be easier!!!

 

d8veh: I have no feelings for the bike at this time!!!!! I don't really enjoy it as it standsand want to make it better, would you stick to hub or go mid based on what James mentioned in his earlier post.

 

I think deep down I really want to go middrive but is that madness???

Thanks for the input guys.

 

James I hadn't even noticed that it was a 40 chainring, I presume i can change that out or does that put a stronger case forward for a middrive???

 

Danidl, I really want to build something myself as opposed to buy off the shelf, I'm sure you get that, apologies for imperial/metric measurements I was copying and pasting and thought mph would be easier!!!

 

d8veh: I have no feelings for the bike at this time!!!!! I don't really enjoy it as it standsand want to make it better, would you stick to hub or go mid based on what James mentioned in his earlier post.

 

I think deep down I really want to go middrive but is that madness???

Do you own the bike already?

My experience, front suspension needed over 20mph

Hi

Just purchased a go e and it arrived today.

Fitted to a Giant Hybrid, and she is delighted with it,

Some small fitting issues, but overall well made and easy to fit.

 

Will update as we try it.

 

Steve

Do you own the bike already?

Hi James, yes i do!!

Thanks for the input guys.

 

James I hadn't even noticed that it was a 40 chainring, I presume i can change that out or does that put a stronger case forward for a middrive???

 

Danidl, I really want to build something myself as opposed to buy off the shelf, I'm sure you get that, apologies for imperial/metric measurements I was copying and pasting and thought mph would be easier!!!

 

d8veh: I have no feelings for the bike at this time!!!!! I don't really enjoy it as it standsand want to make it better, would you stick to hub or go mid based on what James mentioned in his earlier post.

 

I think deep down I really want to go middrive but is that madness???

I had responded before noting that it was the conversions thread. So no problem .I like the middrive experience...

250W BBS01 would also make a nice neat conversion, with some reprogramming and gearing up to 25mph could be possible. On a heavy laiden mtb with off road tyres I am able to toot a long at 21/22 mph on flat road with 42/12 gearing.

As d8veh has mentioned getting to 25mph can be done but maintaining it is another thing and probably not comfortable for a commute unless you shower at work.

Would this be a better donor bike, can get one for a a good price?

 

https://www.norco.com/bikearchives/2011/charger/

You gain and you lose. The Merida would require less power for the speed you want. the problem is that you get in a vicious circle of adding power and weight until you end up with an electric motorcycle. I would stick with plan A. Once you've run it for a bit, you can identify any weak points and improve them. It doesn't take long to move a kit from one bike to another if you find that the Merida is no good.

 

I think a Q128C with a 12Ah battery would probably get close to what you want. the next step if you need more power would be a BBSHD and a 17.5Ah battery. The cheap solution is to get one of the £200 1000w direct drive kits and fit it to a cheap steel framed (triangle frame) MTB. Add a 20Ah triangle battery from Aliexpress and use it as a motorised bicycle.

 

It's no problem to change the gearing on the Merida. You'd probably need to do that on any bike for 25 mph pedalling. You need a 48T chainring. I always change mine for about £60 for a complete new hollowtech crankset. here's my last one:

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SHIMANO-FC-R565-10-SPD-DOUBLE-COMPACT-CRANKSET-50-34-CHAINWHEEL-SET-172-5mm-BLK/201846506440?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

It doesn't sound like you are fond of bike. A conversion will make it go faster but will not make it a better fit for you.

250W BBS01 would also make a nice neat conversion, with some reprogramming and gearing up to 25mph could be possible. On a heavy laiden mtb with off road tyres I am able to toot a long at 21/22 mph on flat road with 42/12 gearing.

As d8veh has mentioned getting to 25mph can be done but maintaining it is another thing and probably not comfortable for a commute unless you shower at work.

+1 for the bbs01b. Finished building mine yesterday, wonderful experience. Notched 30km/h easily on flat, 25km/h on hills (I'm nearly as heavy as you) without breaking a sweat. Got my battery from Eclipse, excellent service.

I wouldn't use a CD on a commuter bike. It's too frenetic compared with a hub-motor, plus any drive-train issues will leave you stranded. Keep them for fun/sporting rides.

Apologies for not getting back sooner,anyhow, very excited and bit the bullet. Battery and motor have arrived, controller here tomorrow :-)

I went with your recommendation d8veh, many thanks to all for your advice. I'm sure i'll be in touch during the build for more!!!!!

Can't wait to get stuck in....

Hi

Just purchased a go e and it arrived today.

Fitted to a Giant Hybrid, and she is delighted with it,

Some small fitting issues, but overall well made and easy to fit.

 

Will update as we try it.

 

Steve

Had been thinking about go-e or add-e for my bike but put off by negative press on this forum. Would be very interested in how you find it & the fitting issues mentioned. Independent reviews very hard to find.

 

Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk

Hi guys,

 

I knew I'd be back for help!!!

 

Ok, got around to putting it all together yesterday but am having 2 issues, I presume they are related?

 

1. Readings on KT-LCD6 are all over the place speeds jumping all around, won't read a continuous speed.

2. the motor seems to 'pulse' if thats the right word for it, seems to give power then back off and then power again with no change in my pedelling?

 

Any help greatly appreciated, i think i'm going to love this when i can get it running smoothly.

Hi guys,

 

I knew I'd be back for help!!!

 

Ok, got around to putting it all together yesterday but am having 2 issues, I presume they are related?

 

1. Readings on KT-LCD6 are all over the place speeds jumping all around, won't read a continuous speed.

2. the motor seems to 'pulse' if thats the right word for it, seems to give power then back off and then power again with no change in my pedelling?

 

Any help greatly appreciated, i think i'm going to love this when i can get it running smoothly.

 

P1 setting needs changing. To set the correct value motor reduction gear ratio x hub magnets (Q128 = 16).

I expect you have a default setting of 87.

I haven't seen a definitive listing of the reduction gear ratios, listed I have seen quotes of 9.6, 12.6, 13.2 & 14.2.

For Q128c try any of these values one should work for you;

154, 192 or 202, 208 or 212 & 224.

The setting appears to affect motor timing hence the pulsing, I found and had the same issues 208/212 appears to work fine for me. The speed read out should then settle down.

Edited October 30, 20178 yr by Nealh

I would say that the pulsing is more down to the pedal sensor. these controllers have a very fast response to it, so if it's not running parallel to the sensor with the gap increasing and decreasing, you'd get pulsing. Also, you get it if one of the magnets has fallen out of the disc, which happened to me once, so check that they're all there. If one fell out and you put it back in upside down, you'd also get pulsing.

I'm using 202 for P1 having done it recently. Q128C 36V201RPM at 48V in a 700c. Seems to be smooth.

 

I also seem to recall from doing it recently that the C1 setting could impact this, the number of magnets with a direction setting.

Thanks all will give all those options a try

Finally all sorted and here is the result. Huge thank you to all who have put me on the road not only literally but started my knowledge on this really interesting topic.

 

Now this has generated a whole new issue........my better half wants her bike converted, time for a new thread I think

Finally all sorted and here is the result. Huge thank you to all who have put me on the road not only literally but started my knowledge on this really interesting topic.

 

Now this has generated a whole new issue........my better half wants her bike converted, time for a new thread I think

That looks like an excellent bike. Please let us know some performance details and follow up with your opinion after you've completed some miles.