Hi Sturmey, How did you go about getting you're bike all wheel drive? Thanks Gaza

I live beside some mountains with some quite and beautiful roads but with long grades of 5 to 10%. The single hub and my weight (90Kg) and weak legs are not enough for the steep bits and the bike just stalls on the hills. Anyhow, I had an older spare bike with a mxus front hub and battery, and I simply took it off and fitted the extra kit to the bike that already had the yose 350 rear.

To be specific about the wiring, the rear Yose is fitted as normal with LCD and pass and no throttle, with controller in frame bag. The mxus 250 front (cyclotricity) is fitted with no lcd or pas, only throttle. I have one brake lever wired to one kit and the other to the second kit, and have fitted an additional 'kill switch' in lieu of brake lever to front throttle kit. The front kit has a special 'jumper plug' instead of handlebar display. The front battery and control unit along with an on/off switch (16amp mcb) is fitted in saddle bag. ( I also have a second single motor 'legal' bike for everday use and I swap over one of my batteries from one bike to another.)

The bike is used as normal with rear wheel using pas 3 or 4 for road use and using throttle (front) when additional spurts of power are required (e.g smaller hills .up to 5%) For the 10% plus long climbs, pas 5 is selected and full throttle gets me up.

This setup seems to work well in my case and will haul me up a 10% hill at 20 km/hr at 68% efficency. The addition kit and battery adds an extra 6 Kg to bike.

https://www.ebikes.ca/tools/simulator.html?motor=MXUS_XF07&batt=B3614_PF&cont=cust_14_25_0.03_A&wheel=700c&mass=120&grade=10&motor_b=MXUS_XF07&batt_b=B3614_PF&wheel_b=700c&mass_b=120&grade_b=10&cont_b=cust_15_25_0.03_A&hp=50&hp_b=0&k=1&k_b=1&throt_b=100&add=true&blue=Lbs&kv_b=7.58&bopen=true

Edited February 19, 20206 yr by Sturmey

Thanks Sturmey, Going to try and do the same sort of thing myself is the 'jumper plug' diy or did it come with a kit? Cheers Gaza

Edited February 19, 20206 yr by scott gaza

Thanks Sturmey, Going to try and do the same sort of thing myself is the 'jumper plug' diy or did it come with a kit? Cheers Gaza

If your front kit has a display/lcd unit/led unit you can leave it in and wired but you may have trouble fitting and cluttering the handlebars and may have to stuff it into a (handlebar bag) bag somewhere. The 'jumper plug' is a nicer and safer way than shown below and comes with some kits and controllers. It just plugs in.It would be better if shorter and insulated wires were used (not as in photo ) with just the ends bare as the two jumper must not come in contact.

Perhaps leave the second display unit in and working initially and tidy up afterwards if you are happy with the outcome. (Its like fitting a second locomotive to a train!)

I saw this and I wouldn't mind looking into this I believe there is some wiring that goes from julet to JST for the LCD and motor, the PAS would be easy to source... I haven't look at this in great detail from a dual battery aspect...

 

http://www.topbikekit.com/t06ss-36v48v-kt-dual-motor-driving-brushless-sine-wave-controller-p-904.html

 

I have seen these

 

Not the best but this guy knows a few things

 

This guy is an oracle

 

Thanks Lads! my old display will do for making the jumper cant wait to try it out:) Cheers Gaza

I saw this and I wouldn't mind looking into this I believe there is some wiring that goes from julet to JST for the LCD and motor, the PAS would be easy to source... I haven't look at this in great detail from a dual battery aspect...

 

http://www.topbikekit.com/t06ss-36v48v-kt-dual-motor-driving-brushless-sine-wave-controller-p-904.html

 

I have seen these

 

Not the best but this guy knows a few things

 

This guy is an oracle

 

Just to clarify a little. For the sake of this discussion, we will say that there are two ways to go about fitting two hub motors to a bike. The first is the 'dual motor' way where 'dual' controllers are used so one throttle or pas can control the two motors simultaneously etc and one large battery is fitted. This is not what I am describing or have done.

Instead, I have fitted a simple independent front motor with its own battery, controller, wiring and throttle only that works totally independent of the other motor and has no connection to the rear motor that works with PAS only. (A second throttle could be fitted but I dont think its necessary.)There is no inter wiring with this setup. Its advantage is simplicity and no cutting/splicing of wiring. Also, a fault or breakdown in one motor does not affect the other.I have avoided cluttering the handlebars and using a second throttle and display unit. It is possible (with simple modifications) to have one throttle feeding two motors etc. but this involves cutting/splicing and the two motor systems are no longer independent.

Edited February 19, 20206 yr by Sturmey

Having two independent drives ( despite not legal) may have their uses.

If wanting to run them as one, either two controllers or a dual drive controller as Sturmey had mentioned is needed. With two controllers The PAS and throttle could quite easily be controlled from one form of input by making up a short parallel wire with connectors for PAS and throttle and then no need to splice or touch the existing ones.

Edited February 19, 20206 yr by Nealh

I have fitted a simple independent front motor

Yer man I got ya - that's how I was thinking until, literally 3 days ago I saw that dual controller, the way you do it, is simple easy to the point and If I may a good way to get a feel of how an "all in one" setup would be weight wise... I had looked into this ages ago with the 250w just sitting in the hoover cupboard gathering dust, not mentioning how slow it is unless used as a quick runner to the local shop on throttle. I wouldn't mind having a go at "dual" running, two motors off one system, but back when I thought about it, buying a cycle analyst and all JST wiring the cost alone would have been in the hundreds even with the fact I have two motors and lots of spares. Once I get my doplin 48v battery then I'll have a spare pass through battery mount to go with the one I have, then I could run two 36v batteries, but that's as far as I got....

About my freehub acting up. Yosepower will send me a "base card plate" whatever they mean by that. I hope it's the same as the bafang freehub cover plate. Seems easy enough to replace even for a layman. I will have it within a week or so. Perhaps I should disinfect it before opening somehow

disinfect it

Or self quarantine for 14 days after fitting! I have a 17a controller coming on a plane from China, I was surprised it got out so quick, most likely made on the other side of China...here's hoping

Or self quarantine for 14 days after fitting! I have a 17a controller coming on a plane from China, I was surprised it got out so quick, most likely made on the other side of China...here's hoping

Should get quite cold in the planes cargo hold at 10 000metres alltitude. I think we'll both be fine

Snap poll - How many of us are using the YOSE two pin female power connect from their battery to YOSE two pin male connector on the 15a YOSE controller?

Snap poll - How many of us are using the YOSE two pin female power connect from their battery to YOSE two pin male connector on the 15a YOSE controller?

 

I use them

I use them

I was wondering if anyone had any issues with them as I thought my problem was the battery to controller connector after I replaced everything with XT90's. My battery on the 22a controller limited to 14.66a was doing so well yesterday, then it cut out just before home, I was well gutted I thought I had solved my problem no such luck. My 17a is taking ages to leave China, I assumed it was in flight but I checked this morning and the date changed but the "leaving destination country" has not changed...

I was wondering if anyone had any issues with them as I thought my problem was the battery to controller connector after I replaced everything with XT90's. My battery on the 22a controller limited to 14.66a was doing so well yesterday, then it cut out just before home, I was well gutted I thought I had solved my problem no such luck. My 17a is taking ages to leave China, I assumed it was in flight but I checked this morning and the date changed but the "leaving destination country" has not changed...

 

Yosepower on the other hand are really fast. My new freehub was sent from China last wednsday and was delivered to my door today

 

I've read your posts about that problem. I've never had any problems other than with the orginal controller. If the connectors are clean and fit nicely together I can't imagine that they can be responsible for your issues. Why not just cut the connectors and solder the wires together, then you'll know for sure.

solder the wires together

I thought the XT90 would be enough am just going to wait and see if the new 17a has the same issues, I plugged the 15a (dolphin mount controller) in the other day and everything was perfect, I am slightly worried though because I think that's the last cheap dolphin mount out there otherwise it's £70 to replace... I am taking a leaf out of your book at the moment... looking at rear wheel bafang motors, I am thinking whole new kit, fresh start, my YOSE wheel was trued 2 months ago by the local bike shop and although it's still true the spokes are creaking, I might scrap the idea of a new battery for now and get a bafang kit but I do hate uncharted waters!

I thought the XT90 would be enough am just going to wait and see if the new 17a has the same issues, I plugged the 15a (dolphin mount controller) in the other day and everything was perfect, I am slightly worried though because I think that's the last cheap dolphin mount out there otherwise it's £70 to replace... I am taking a leaf out of your book at the moment... looking at rear wheel bafang motors, I am thinking whole new kit, fresh start, my YOSE wheel was trued 2 months ago by the local bike shop and although it's still true the spokes are creaking, I might scrap the idea of a new battery for now and get a bafang kit but I do hate uncharted waters!

 

I'm looking forward to replacing my freehub and see how long before the next problem. I thought that this kit would give me several years of problem-free riding which have not been the case. I always thought that the battery would be the component to give up first but so far my battery with "china cells" is the only thing that just works. Can't really complain about Yosepower though, they really take their responsibility within the guarantee period.

 

I've toyed with the idea of a bafang front wheel kit when this one has had it. Front wheel kits doesn't have a freehub and therefor should be even more troublefree. I'm not a fan of front wheel drive though...

So I changed the "cover plate freehub" today that yosepower sent me. The change itself was dead easy. There are no markings or serial numbers on the plate so not easy to find elsewhere but I do wonder if this is the same as the freehub cover plate for bafang. They sure do look the same.

The inside of the hub looked brand new so no water intrusion there, that's good.

 

In this post, almost a year ago when the kit was less than 1 month old I described a "scratching/rattling sound" from the casette/freehub when the wheel spun freely. This sound is gone with the new freehub meaning that my problem started almost immediately when the kit was brand new. One can only hope that there was something wrong with the freehub on this partiular hub from the very beginning.

battery would be the component to give up

I was in the same boat on that one but my batteries are 3.5yrs old and not doing too bad considering they been dropped a few times.

I have to say I am a front hub advocate, my 1st 350w was front and a part from reading a few horror stories about suspension fork breaking I never had any major issues, it was plug n go really,I would say they do take a good beating with potholes and I will never know if mine died because it was badly made or if it was my first 2000 miles of gravel and potholes, I did manage to fix it and get another 2000 miles out of it and this was my next thought today, do a front again??... I have had a look and found one Bafang motor and wheel (rear) only it was £195.00 the front I found was not black, but I have to say both looked the same as the YOSE a part from embossed BAFANG stamped in the middle....

The freehub is sold by yosepower and is 20£ including express delivery with TNT. I guess I will be needing another one sooner or later so good to know.

I am going to call it a day with my rear YOSE 350w wheel after I heard a spoke like ping and found a small crack on the rim near one spoke nipple. Dare I say it would cost more to source new spokes and have a trusted shop rebuild the wheel then to purchase a new one at £135.00 for a front 350w bafang - As of now I will reinstall my 250w front, purchase the intended 48v battery and try the 250w over volted and see how that fares.

The 250w will work fine at 48v, just remember it will have 33% more torque and speed. Torque steering will be your biggest issue so keep hold of them bars and watch cornering.

33% more torque

Yer I remember you mentioning that a distance post ago, good to know it'll be about the same as a 350w on the front. Just waiting on the next dual voltage controller to arrive

You may want to be very careful and make sure it does not exceed 15.5mph by much.

exceed 15.5mph

It already does 18 on the 36v setup 15a, I was thinking 19-20 max would that be a major issue? + I have had another look at the PSW 48v battery - its really cheap...

 

http://www.pswpower.com/ven.php?cargo.2017-5f-31t0

 

The lg cell used when google lists a "did you mean" "LGGEMB261865" and then a vid(battery doctor) saying they are one of the worse batteries hes seen from LG any thoughts?

Edited February 27, 20206 yr by PC2017