I have exactly the same headlight... I didn't know that it can work from 36v.

I will make an adapter to connect that light from KT controller connector directly, without a switch.

Thanks.

Edited August 3, 20196 yr by AndreyAv

I made the first ride. It seems that something works wrong.

It starts up on PAS, then acccelerates to about 6 kmh and then happens strange sound like strong electric motor startup, in the same moment torque disappears, and then strage sound of increasing rotation speed without any real torque on the wheel. And it shows some constant speed on display.

May be it is wrong wiring? Or wrong setup?

Are you saying the bike works but makes an electrical noise like electrical wire shorting/ electrical cracking/contact noise or something else is happening ?

No, unfortunately it doesn't work.

It works in walk assist mode - drives at 6 km/h even if I am sitting on the bike.

But in usual PAS assisting mode it starts to assist, but then at 7-8 km/h it makes an electrical cracking noice and then makes spinup noice and stops producing any torque on the wheel.

Here is the video of the process:

The motor starts at about 5s, and then "fails" at about 6s.

Possibly I have to perform some "learning" (connected blue wire on KT)?

Note that speed is displayed well while the motor works, and it increases while motor is spinning up abnormally.

Also note that it shows speed when the motor is off but I just walking backwards with the bike. It is strange for me.

KT's don't have a learn wire, phase is configured via C2 setting

List your P & C setting so we can have a look.

Importantly C2 should be value 0 but if this doesn't help try the other values.

With a motor not working properly try not to apply throttle/max current until motor works smoothly in PAS 1 or 2.

Double check all phase connections are good as well as the hall's, lastly also recheck motor connection is fully inserted correctly.

P1=87 (checked with real wheel RPM on walk mode - seems to be correct)

P2=0 P3=0 P4=0 P5=12

C1=5 C2=0 C3=8 C4=0 C5=10 C6=1 C7=0 C8=0 C9=0 C10=n C11=0 C12=4 C13=0 C14=2

Motor wires are connected color-to-color, contact is good.

 

I tried to play with C5 - limited max current with a half value using C5=3 - now I can drive across my room (about 7 meters) without motor failure on 4th PAS level. It seems like motor can't handle too big current?

 

Upd: what about displaying speed while passive drive back? Is it ok?

Upd2: it seems that light connector on the controller gives battery voltage constantly, even if display if off. So it is not possible to connect headlight directly, I have to order headlight switch like you mentioned earlier..

Edited August 4, 20196 yr by AndreyAv

What is the controller current max rating ?

 

P2 is usually 1 or 6 for geared hubs, P2 is for lcd speed reading.

P3 /1 for current control. You currently have this set as 0 for speed control, it gives max current in all PAS but varies the speed in each PAS level.

Using current control value 1 gives max speed in all PAS but varies the current in each PAS level for smoother power transition.

 

C1 /1.

 

More likely that your battery can't deliver the amps/current being asked of it, hence why the motor cuts out. Hub motors don't usually mind how much power/current is delivered though eventually they will fail from heat, usually Planetary gears fail first. Try the P3/1 setting as current control is better.

It is KT36V 250W, i don't remember exact value, but it seems it is something like 14A. Original Fiido controller is 13A. So battery have to be a good pair for this controller.

Any P2 except 0 doesn't show any speed on the display. Possibly this parameter is for motors with build-in speed sensor, and 0 just shows speed using hall sensors. P2=0 shows correct speed in walk assist mode.

P3. I've changed to 1 and don't see difference. Actually initially it was 1, and later I changed to 0 as an experiment.

C1. I have KT-V12L PAS which is reverse 12 signal. Initial value was 7 for standard sensitivity, I changed it to 5 to get PAS assisting detected as soon as possible. And it works as designed - PAS starts motor faster. I've tried to set 1 - PAS doesn't work at all.

 

So, let's confirm a couple of facts:

1. Walk assist mode works well, bike keeps (and shows) correct speed about 5.9 km/h. So motor phases and hall sensor are connected well. Correct?

2. When I'm trying to drive on PAS, it starts to accelerate till about 8 km/h, and then I hear that strange sound. After that bike stop acceleration BUT the motor spins up rapidly and display increasing speed up to 25 km/h. It seems like the motor works as designed, but doesn't provide torque on the wheel. Possible mechanical failure? Internal motor freewheel for example. But it worked well with the stock controller on all speeds and loads..

Also, I've removed cover of the motor.

Here is walkassist mode:

When motor starts satellite gears stop rotation. Seems like some clutch do that. It is correct behavior.

Here is PAS mode:

At the moment of strange noice satellite gears start rotation, so it seems that the clutch was released for some reason. I don't know how motorwheels work, but the issue may be as mechanical so electrical. Could you comment?

The next update..

I've read a couple of articles and watched videos. It seems that my freewheel is broken. It should be released when pedaling and blocked while motor is assisting. And it is being blocked at the beginning of powered rotation but then it slips off.

Possibly the curve of current increasing should be smoother, but KT doesn't have settings to do that except mentioned P3.

Dear Pedelecs, I have been fighting with the S866 and its controller for a few months ... and, looking for a more complete manual, I found you ... I read the 13 pages of questions and answers and thank you for the time you dedicate us. I still have some problems, like the one that the bike does not exceed 14 km / h, although everything seems to work. Do you have any idea why? selecting P20 different from 0 gives error E30, which is not reported in the manual: what does it mean? is it not possible to reset to factory values? thanks

Great bikes. What do you think of the noise/hum coming from the motor with the brainpower controller(or did you get a KT?)? I kind of like it, but to be fair it does show we're dealing with a cheap controller. I've swapped out three controllers for a brainpower so far and they all work without issues. Speaking of bang for your buck, huh?

I stil have Error 07 do you nog how i can fix this gr Wim

For lights you need to use the KT handle bar light/horn switch for operation, my commute bike utilises one for front and back simultaneously. Out put is 5V so lighting needs to be 5v capable.

 

P.s.

Might have made a mistake output is full voltage I believe as my lights are 36/48v.

 

Output is full voltage, but if I connect anything I get an ERR 10

I want to connect a step-down converter to run my 6v fron/back lights.

 

Anyybody knows anything about how to connect lights directy to the controller?

I'd also be fine with 5V/0,5A...

 

Cheers, Ray

Anyybody knows anything about how to connect lights directy to the controller?

My C&D version of KT36V has front light output, but it just outputs constant battery voltage always. If you have the same, you should buy front light switch and connect it as a switch in the light circuit. If your light is 5-6V you should also include step-down converter in the circuit.

I know some original KT controllers has outputs for lights which are already being switched when LCD backlight is switched - in that case you don't need aux switch.

I stil have Error 07 do you nog how i can fix this gr Wim

Hi Wim, I just noticed your question now. E07 has occurred on all of my Brainpower installs so far (even when nothing is wrong) and can easily be cleared by connecting a throttle and spinning up the motor with it above 6 Km/h. After that E07 hasn't come back on my installs. It's almost like it's part of the initial setup process. I do disable throttle in the display setting afterwards and completely remove the throttle from the bicycle to comply with EU regulations. If you already have a throttle on your bicycle and you still get E07 then something is wrong; the controller seems to have sensed a problem with the hall sensors. This could be a bad/loose contact in the wiring (even a bad connector or wire that has come loose inside the motor etc) or a broken hall sensor.

Output is full voltage, but if I connect anything I get an ERR 10

I want to connect a step-down converter to run my 6v fron/back lights.

 

Anyybody knows anything about how to connect lights directy to the controller?

I'd also be fine with 5V/0,5A...

 

Cheers, Ray

Hi Ray, I have also noticed this behavior on one of my installs but it somehow fixed itself. I would get an E10 code when measuring voltage on the Aux output, which also immediately cuts off the power to that connector but when connecting a step down converter everything was fine, no more E10.

Edited August 13, 20196 yr by Speedee

Hi, Are the power assist speeds configurable or are they set by the controller or a feature of the bike wheel size. I note that there are two settings; one gives three speeds; the other 5. Does anyone have what the 3 / 5 speeds are? Thanks

Hi and probably a dumb question - Is the number of power assist levels fixed for any bike or can all bikes toggle from 5 speeds to 3 speeds simply by changing this parameter no PO5. Finally are there any caveats in playing with the parameters (aside from no 20) ; are there any that can screw things up irreversibly? Thanks

The levels are in fact maximum speed settings. They divide the top speed up in 3 or 5 levels (for instance 20%-40%-60%-80%-100%) and can't be set individually. They can be influenced of course by changing the top speed setting or by simply using a higher voltage battery pack (in combo with the top speed setting). And yes, any bike can have 3 to 5 levels, it's up to you.

 

Depending on the BMS of your battery pack the low voltage cut off setting could potentially (help) damage the battery pack if set too low. Provided you over discharge the pack. That's about all I can think of.

hi guys, i have brain power controller and s866 lcd. my problem is that i hear the motor working when i pedal but it is very weak compared to the old controller. also when i put it on walk mode (6km)it just starts making a noise but it does not move. i have checked the motor hall sensors and the wiring and they should be fine.

 

also when i do self learniglng as suggested in this thread, it is fast enough! so with two green wires connected, i get the speed and power i expect, but without them it works poor. is it from p07 config?

 

 

you can hear it here https://streamable.com/ldyiw

 

motor 24V unknown manufacturer

controller 24v 350W

wheel size 20 inches

Edited August 21, 20196 yr by Gooobz

The levels are in fact maximum speed settings. They divide the top speed up in 3 or 5 levels (for instance 20%-40%-60%-80%-100%) and can't be set individually. They can be influenced of course by changing the top speed setting or by simply using a higher voltage battery pack (in combo with the top speed setting). And yes, any bike can have 3 to 5 levels, it's up to you.

 

Depending on the BMS of your battery pack the low voltage cut off setting could potentially (help) damage the battery pack if set too low. Provided you over discharge the pack. That's about all I can think of.

Thanks for the feedback; very much appreciated

Hi, I wonder how to activate the sleep function with the S866/Brainpower set.

I have installed sereveral sets but no one will go into sleep (tried different sleep times 1-60), somebody any idea?

 

Regards,

 

Allard

Hi, I wonder how to activate the sleep function with the S866/Brainpower set.

I have installed sereveral sets but no one will go into sleep (tried different sleep times 1-60), somebody any idea?

 

Regards,

 

Allard

It doesn't work, unfortunately. The P-value is there but somehow the firmware does not respond to any setting.

hi guys, i have brain power controller and s866 lcd. my problem is that i hear the motor working when i pedal but it is very weak compared to the old controller. also when i put it on walk mode (6km)it just starts making a noise but it does not move. i have checked the motor hall sensors and the wiring and they should be fine.

 

also when i do self learniglng as suggested in this thread, it is fast enough! so with two green wires connected, i get the speed and power i expect, but without them it works poor. is it from p07 config?

 

 

you can hear it here https://streamable.com/ldyiw

 

motor 24V unknown manufacturer

controller 24v 350W

wheel size 20 inches

Do you have a throttle connected? Or have you only tried using it with a PAS sensor? Is an error code visible on the display?

It doesn't work, unfortunately. The P-value is there but somehow the firmware does not respond to any setting.

Ok thanks!

 

Regards,

 

Allard