MH1 from tests suffers damage if given the full 10a, 7a max is recommended for cell life. That 10s5p battery will be a breeze for SO6S which is 15a max , cells will only see 3a max if a throttle or PAS5 is used.

Thanks Neal, I didn't know the max draw of the controller. Plus, it seems to be a good price for a 16Ah battery, so I was a bit suspicious.

WOW!

This is getting way beyond my pay grade.

I know that aluminium stress fractures, on repeated bending, easier than steel. But this will be a static bend, won't it? In other words once the stretch is made it stays there (the 140mm axle holds it apart) it's not a repeated action.

 

That's right, though there is some cyclic stress as you pedal from side to side and go over bumps, but it's insignificant, otherwise all bike frames would break. The stress from a 5mm spring is completely insignificant compared with the stress from sitting on the bike and riding it.

 

I've taken a frame out to 170mm and done 5000 miles without any problem whatsoever. the only problem with springing that far is that the caliper ends up at an angle to the disc so you have to realign it with spacers behind the caliper adapter.

Another thought. In all this I still don't know if the Q100H axle is actually 140mm or not.

I have just found a thread on ES. A guy there called Motomech reckons that all Q100 series are 135mm dropouts. Now with swmbo holding the tape measure, I'm able to spring the chainstays to 134mm with my puny arms.

As already said a couple of times, it depends on whether you have a disc brake and how many gears you have on the freewheel.

As already said a couple of times, it depends on whether you have a disc brake and how many gears you have on the freewheel.

 

I believe Ben mentioned in an earlier post it had a 6 gear block, no discs on a Transition.

Yer, that's right.

Anyway, kit's are ordered and about to order the 16Ah batteries from yose.

The kits arrived from bmsb today. My neighbour had a real shock when the UPS driver said that he'd got to pay a huge tax bill before the parcels could be dropped. Seems like the good folk at the revenue have, for some reason, assumed a £500 delivery cost:oops: and he's had to pay the vat on that plus some other stuff. Anyway he's been on to the tax people and explained the delivery was far less than that, he's got a form coming.

Kits are all present and correct, however both motor wheels arrived in boxes with their axles protuding through the sides of the boxes. Very poor packaging. Main concern is the cables coming out of the axles. They are protected by strain relieve springs so are hopefully OK. Already found one very loose spoke in the first wheel - will be checking as we go.

Battery from Yose also arrived today, though they've only sent one:mad:. E-mails are flying.

 

Checked one motor in the frame and (without any spacers) I've only had to spring it about 5mm. Dropouts will need filing but possibly only to take the paint off. Will start in ernest tommorrow by checking wheel centering and chain line - see if it needs spacers. Just ordered torque brackets.

There is a housing in the front of the battery that looks like it may well take the controller and some wiring. Will need to fabricate some bracket system to hold the battery slide to the rather substantial bike rack.

Let the fun begin:D

You need to get your freewheels on to check and adjust the width ofthe motor. Don't touch the spokes yet in case you have to centre the wheel in the crame.

Done the basic conversion to the first bike. Motor went in with one spacer washer on the non gear side. Easy to spring it in with just my thumbs, no brute force needed. Just had to reset the top and bottom limits on the derailleur, indexing is fine.

The battery has an empty bit at the front of the slide, so the controller's gone in there. There are some vent holes in it so hopefully it'll be alright. These are leisure bikes so I don't think water's gonna be a problem.

The hidden wire brake switch is a brilliant and neat piece of kit (thanks for the heads up vfr).

Just wading through the Chinglish instructions for the LCD5 to get to imperial settings. Seems a nice little display.

Left hand thumb throttle feels nice, so far giving max speed of 35km/h. Yet to set wheel size etc.

Waiting on torque bracket delivery then, when a bit of spiral wrap has been added to cables, I can road test it and hand it over, step back and watch the e bike grin take hold.

I'll get some photo's done soon.

Well done Ben, sorted nicely.

In the kit of bits for the controller, there is a black 2 pin plug with a loop of blue wire in it. The only corresponding plug on the controller has blue and black wires in it. It is the only one that is unlabelled on the S06S details and isn't mentioned at all on the downloadable diagram.

Anyone know what it's for? Is it a derestriction loop?

Now that the lcd has been set to wheel size I can get an accurate take on speed. On the stand and using throttle, the max speed obtained is restricted by the max speed setting. Currently it's giving 20mph which'll probably give around 18mph on the road. Although the motor seems to drive all the way up around 40-45kph when the setting is at default of 72kph (way too fast for a 20inch wheel bike - I would thinko_O).

The Bleu loop is for cruise function.

Original KT's I think only have the derestriction wire which is a single SM1 connector with a white wire.

Now that the lcd has been set to wheel size I can get an accurate take on speed. On the stand and using throttle, the max speed obtained is restricted by the max speed setting. Currently it's giving 20mph which'll probably give around 18mph on the road. Although the motor seems to drive all the way up around 40-45kph when the setting is at default of 72kph (way too fast for a 20inch wheel bike - I would thinko_O).

45 km/h is the speed you get with a 328 rpm Q100 in a 26" wheel. It's not possible to spin that fast in a 20" with a 36v battery. There must be something wrong with your wheel size setting unless you recorded that before setting the wheel size.

 

The blue wire loop is for cruise control. Do not connect it. It's for stupid guys that don't fit a pedal sensor, and it can be very dangerous if you don't know what you're doing.

Finally, the photo's.

Torque bracket finally arrived and fitted, road test complete. Had to fit the torque bracket on the gear side, just wouldn't go on the other. However the kick stand is mounted over the axle and acts as a second bracket, not a very substantial one, but it's there.

Despite setting the maximum speed at 25kph, the motor is giving a road speed of 17-18mph on pas5, and around 20mph on the throttle. Using a handful of throttle and pedaling to take of it is far too easy to lift the front wheel on this short wheelbase bike, bit scary.

Motor is pretty much silent and it's not easy to tell when it cuts out.

My neighbour is well chuffed .

 

Used spiral wrap to keep cables tidy.

 

Handlebars have stayed nice and tidy.

I am not responsible for the mohican!

 

Torque bracket just wouldn't fit any other way - believe me I tried.

 

Kick stand was part of the reason I couldn't get the bracket here.

Yet to see how effective the spiral wrap is over time.

The hidden wire brake switch is really neat and works well (make sure the cable is facing away from the brake). I manged to get the controller in the front of the battery mount, hence all the cables going there.

The key is a lock only, not a switch.

Had to grind the peddle boss, by about 3mm, to fit pas disc ( aluminium doesn't grind very nicely does it - clogs up the disc?). It's a bit of a dogs dinner 'cos I couldn't get it square, so has a bit of a wobble. But it works smoothly.

The only cable I had to extend was the throttle, easy 3 wire cut in, hidden under the frame and heat shrunk.

Pleasing job to do, got his wife's to do next - maybe after Easter.

I like how you hid the controller inside the battery!

 

It took me three years to discover what could be done with spiral wrap. I use to throw it away, Then I became a devotee, Bought 30 feet of it for like two dollars.

 

Cut the PAS Disk next time? I do.

 

Yes. Wheelies. Not so much on mine unless I have 48V battery, but it will lift the wheel on 36V ascending a steep hill with hard pedaling and motor assist. That can be scary.

 

One thing is missing. A good bell!

Nice job.

That is a spoke pattern I've never seen before, but I've not seen much. Must be a radial pattern.

Just wanted to follow up on this one.

I did the second bike, road tested it and all was fine. Went to charge the battery and there was a splash spark when I plugged the charger in, thought nothing of it as I thought it was just capacitors charging. But then noticed that there was no light on the charger. Checked mains etc. but no joy. Went and got the first charger of my neighbour, knowing that it worked. Plugged it in, again big splash and charger stopped working. Oh dear:(

So my neighbour contacted Yosepower. They sent him a new charger straight away - think it took two days to arrive. For battery replacement they said best way was to buy a new one and they would refund on return of the old one. New battery was delivered within 3 days of contact (c/w charger) and old one refunded. No sweat, no hassle.

So a big thumbs up for Yosepower customer service - well recommended:). The only reason we didn't use them for the whole kit was that BMSB had the configuration we were after.

 

My neighbour is well chuffed. His wife, a kidney transplant patient, is especially well chuffed. Did 18 miles yesterday for the first time in her life with no fears of the sudden energy drop she gets. Big up for electric bikes this is what they were made for.

Did you check polarity of battery or charger at all ?

It's not uncommon to hear of incorrect wiring on items or even a loose wire shorting.

The above shouldn't be necessary and most take it for granted with kits but always worth double checking before trying to connect.

 

P.s

By the way a nice tidy build.

Edited May 20, 20196 yr by Nealh

Always switch the charger on before connecting to the battery. The spark most likely blew the fuse in the charger, which is an easy fix.

Didn't check the polarity, but guessing that battery charge input polarity was the problem.

The chargers were Sans and had no external fuse. When the second blew we did ease out the rubber feet and take the lid of, I couldn't see any fuse. This I found very surprising as they came with the euro two pin plug on them, so no fuse there either. As an electrician some euro standards do seem a bit lacking to me.

Anyway all's fine with the new chargers and battery.

The fuse is in the plug that goes in the wall socket. No lights came on, so the break is on the mains side.

I thought it was the hinge, but glad to know that I'm wrong. Is it the weld where the downtube meets the head tube, given that most folders have no top tube.

Sorry if I'm butting in, you're right, main tube to head tube join area is where they go. "End of Life metal fatigue" according to Brompton. That's why folder frames now have bracing fillets welded in there. Cheers. Mikel

Apologies from myself as well, I was the one who mentioned the frame weld cracks earlier in the thread.

 

Looking at your picture, as you say that seems to be fatigue of the metal itself rather than the welds giving way.

Again as you've mentioned these days decent folders have more bracing and internal abutments to give extra strength to the weld.

The problem is the cheaper low end bikes have no such added bracing, and personally I wouldn't have much faith in their longevity. There was a thread on another cycle forum about the subject of broken frames which ran for months, it even had the manufactures themselves joining in trying to give reassurance on their particular machines.

It was as a result of that and other media attention that forced the hand of bike makers to sort the problem out, well at least to a certain extent anyway.