I just noticed a couple of settings that perhaps someone could look at. I have only touched the speed limit.

 

Oops sorry don't know how to limit the size.

Well, I think I might have cracked it. I started down the firmware route and since I now have a 48volt motor flashed the motor with 48volt stock firmware. Whilst going through various bit that I'd ordered for this project over the last couple of months I noticed that I had thumb controller. I had noted that I had a cable from the motor to the controller that split into a three pin julet? connector. I wondered if this might have been for a brake control, but had been told by the seller (China) that the controller 850c didn't support a brake. I wondered if the thumb controller had come with the 500c controller. (Which I'm not sure is true, but I don't know how to connect a brake sensor (which I have.)

 

Anyhow I noted whilst reading threads on flashing firmware that some motors came with cables that supported a thumb controller.

 

I decided to take a chance and plugged it in. Bam suddenly when I pressed it there was all this amazing power.

 

Now I need to test it on the road, BUT I'm hopefull

 

I have a number of questions though.

 

First I have no idea how I'm going to attach it to the handlebar of my road bike, the hole is small, I assume for a mtb?

 

Is there a hack where I don't need it?

 

I also noted another thing on the battery. The on-off switch is for a USB socket, so there is no isolator switch. Can someone suggest an appropriate switch and connector combo (with link perhaps).

 

My next move will be to try and understand how to flash the 850c so I can use the open firmware (mbrusa et al)

 

A side effect of all this is that to get more room I ended up doing a shed spring clean. Every cloud...

 

Thanks

 

Ps the man who I was going to see doesn't touch self builds...

Edited June 27, 20214 yr by gfmoore

Just in case anyone finds this thread. I took the plunge and went for the Open Source Firmware and wired up the usb interfaces (hoping I wouldn't put 48volts onto the wrong pin on the display...) Anyway got mbrusa's open source firmware loaded on the motor and display. The torque now works, the throttle not so good. I'm still playing with the settings and hopeful that I will get the throttle running properly eventually, but to be honest if I put the bike in mtb mode (mountain bike?) it does what I need, fast take off and power up the hills, the rest is up to me

 

https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=1666528#p1666528

 

Edit: I don't know why I said that the display I originally tried was a 500c display, it was actually a 560c display. Haven't tried it since and will sell it on ebay, the 850c is okay

I did a TSDZ2 conversation as well, left it bone stock and with 36v 15ah battery it rides great.

 

The Nuvinci 360 hub is well suited to the TSDZ2.

 

Hello. Thought I'd post my build too.

Taken me forever to finish as I got a frozen shoulder landscaping my garden.

 

Only thing I don't like is the ridiculously long cable between 850c down to the motor. As the cable out of the 850c is about 1m and the extension to the motor is another 1m.

 

Is there a shorter adapter cable between the 6 pin and 8 pin?.

500w TSDZ2 48v with 850c

Carrera Vengeance

Battery is UPP 48v 12.5 Panasonic

 

Not dared flash anything but have sorted out the speed etc in the 850c and the wheel size finally (set at 27 as I don't have a choice of 27.5)

Cheers

Andy

Edited August 19, 20214 yr by Andy Vickers

No off the peg cable that worked:mad: eventually cut the display cable about 2 inches from the plug removed the excess re-joined colour to colour - solder -heat shrink - then another heat shrink over the cable length its a pain but but the quickest way with out guessing pin connection in the moulded plug

Ps does the watt meter work in the newer versions

No off the peg cable that worked:mad: eventually cut the display cable about 2 inches from the plug removed the excess re-joined colour to colour - solder -heat shrink - then another heat shrink over the cable length its a pain but but the quickest way with out guessing pin connection in the moulded plug

Ps does the watt meter work in the newer versions

I'm not sure. It all seems to be working.

I've had it over 16 months so not sure it constitutes new ..Took a while to get on with it.

 

I've coiled up the excess and its neatly sat in a cut piece of inner tube and is under the screen. Looks quite neat I suppose

Every body hates the excess cable but its a one size fits all solution

Often use the smallest saddle bag under the handle bars these have the advantage of a zip for quick access and hide many sins:rolleyes:

Hi really useful mini guide. I was thinking of getting a new Carrera mountain bike (Kraken or Vulcan) and fitting this motor but unsure now considering some of your tips and the Carrera Crossfire 3 is probably a better option as it is a Hybrid.

 

For the cables routed under the bottom bracket any advice on clips or guides that can be mounted to the frame if they need to be re-routed?

Hi Pendant Peddler,

 

Thanks for sharing and looking to fit the motor onto a newer version of the Carrera Kraken potentially. As per the original OPs guide and comments did you have any issues with the cable routing under the bottom bracket, or the motor housing coming close to the rear going to say chain stays if that is the correct term as they spread out more on a mountain bike?

 

Thanks,

Ant

For the cables routed under the bottom bracket any advice on clips or guides that can be mounted to the frame if they need to be re-routed?

On my bike fit I needed to remove the bottom bracket plastic cable guide - rather than re-route the rear derailleur cable, I used a short length of gear cable outer sleeve (maybe 200mm long) threaded through the small gap where the cable guide was and secured each end of it with cable ties. This was a bit fiddly but with the aid of a torch and a bit of silicon grease, job done!

On my bike fit I needed to remove the bottom bracket plastic cable guide - rather than re-route the rear derailleur cable, I used a short length of gear cable outer sleeve (maybe 200mm long) threaded through the small gap where the cable guide was and secured each end of it with cable ties. This was a bit fiddly but with the aid of a torch and a bit of silicon grease, job done!

Thanks for the information, I was looking at a Giant Roam 3 today as a possible option. The plastic cable guide and screw could probably be reduced in height, however the hydraulic rear disc break cable is probably going to be an issue as cannot be routed over the top of the bottom bracket (see attached photos).

 

You can run that hydraulic hose wherever you like, it doesn’t have to come out of the bottom tube where it does. They’re easy to makeup new ones to a different length.

 

On my bike it runs along the underside of the top tube and then down the seat stay to the rear calliper. You could fit rivnuts or rivet p clips to the underside of the top tube to make this look neat.

 

Or you could drill a 6mm hole in the top/side of the bottom tube ahead of the bottom bracket and keep the hose where it is but exit from this new hole with a rubber grommet.

• [mention=36621]OrdnanceAnt[/mention] - you may also find that the bottom part of the down tube where the cables exit, fouls the motor too?
  
• This was the case with my friend's bike that I converted for him - basically I ground the offending metalwork back until the motor fitted
  
• It was a brand new bike so I didn't have the heart to tell him I'd taken my angle grinder to it, but everything has worked out fine
  

 

I am about to fit a 500w 36v TSDZ2 to a 29" hard tail MTB. Will let you know how it goes. I will probably have to re-route shifter cable, as it runs below the pedaler bracket. I wanted to give some advice on the removal of the pedalier axle cassette, which can be tricky due to the significant torque that has to be applied, which requires a lot of lever which, in turn,makes it difficult to position the socket splines firmly in grooves in the nut. I bought in Ebay a socket and then used an electric impact wrench I use for the car wheel nuts. Such wrench is very effective, as it avoids the issue of the socket not getting deep enough in the grooves of the cassette nuts: you can just press hard from above and pull the trigger, and the impact wrench does all the work

Assuming that your bike is fitted with a standard Square Taper bottom bracket, then watch this YT clip

or one of the many others on the subject.

 

Do remember that the fixing on one side is a LEFT handed thread so it needs to be undone clockwise (I can't never remember which side - just watch YT )

 

Personally I would never use an impact wrench for this job as it is all to easy to apply too much force and break the splines on the bottom bracket.

 

The gear cable guide - I had to remove the cable guide for my TSDZ2 but there was just enough room to fit a short length of gear cable outer (anchored both ends by cable ties) which I ran the gear cable inner through - this saved me having to reroute the cable.

Many thanks for the advice and for the video. I have already removed the bracket (or cassette, as is usually called here -Spain-). I did watch a number of instruction videos before and had, fortunately, figured out the reverse thread.

Regarding the impact wrench, given the original thread comments on the difficulty of removing the bracket, having to use a G clamp to press the socket into the nut, I thought it was worth sharing a tip that worked perfectly. In my case, I soon realized, after a couple of attempts, that the use of a long ratchet wrench was not going to work that well, the issue being, precisely, that, with such a long lever and the force applied at the end of the lever, the socket would slightly tilt, so that the splines in the socket would not fit perfectly in the grooves in the bracket. Exactly what the original thread and some other members in the forum were saying. Given that the risk of either ruining the socket or (much more important), the bracket, can only be minimized by ensuring that they both fit perfectly, and given that the best way to do that is to apply downwards pressure directly above the socket to push the splines as vertically as possible into the bracket nut grooves, I thought that the impact wrench, that allows the user to simply press down while the tool does the twisting force, was the best tool for the job. Sure enough, nuts went out easily at the first attempt, which had not been the case with the ratchet wrench. Needless to say, and given that electric impact wrenches allow to modulate the number of impacts and, in some cases, the torque, I started carefully, checking that there was a very slight movement with the first impacts and that the splines and grooves were not wearing, and continued when comfortable that it was working.

Assuming that your bike is fitted with a standard Square Taper bottom bracket, then watch this YT clip

or one of the many others on the subject.

 

Do remember that the fixing on one side is a LEFT handed thread so it needs to be undone clockwise (I can't never remember which side - just watch YT )

 

Personally I would never use an impact wrench for this job as it is all to easy to apply too much force and break the splines on the bottom bracket.

 

The gear cable guide - I had to remove the cable guide for my TSDZ2 but there was just enough room to fit a short length of gear cable outer (anchored both ends by cable ties) which I ran the gear cable inner through - this saved me having to reroute the cable.

I will certainly try your solution to the gear cable. One question, though, Did you manage to do that without changing the cable?. I was thinking that, if I try to fit a piece of gear cable outer over the existing cable, given that the cable is already a bit deformed where it attaches to the shifter, it was going to be impossible to push it into the cable cover, as it would stick…

Assuming that your bike is fitted with a standard Square Taper bottom bracket, then watch this YT clip

or one of the many others on the subject.

 

Do remember that the fixing on one side is a LEFT handed thread so it needs to be undone clockwise (I can't never remember which side - just watch YT )

 

Personally I would never use an impact wrench for this job as it is all to easy to apply too much force and break the splines on the bottom bracket.

 

The gear cable guide - I had to remove the cable guide for my TSDZ2 but there was just enough room to fit a short length of gear cable outer (anchored both ends by cable ties) which I ran the gear cable inner through - this saved me having to reroute the cable.

Regarding remembering to which side they twist. The rule of thumb that some internet videos provide, which works for most standard brackets, is to turn both in the same direction as the pedals turn when cycling (clockwise). That means the left side (the one on your left leg) is normal thread direction, and the right side is reverse thread direction

Regarding remembering to which side they twist. The rule of thumb that some internet videos provide, which works for most standard brackets, is to turn both in the same direction as the pedals turn when cycling (clockwise). That means the left side (the one on your left leg) is normal thread direction, and the right side is reverse thread direction

I mean clockwise in the right side, anti clockwise on the left side…

I will certainly try your solution to the gear cable.

It takes a bit of doing and you may have to jiggle (technical term )the motor and outer around a bit.

One question, though, Did you manage to do that without changing the cable?. I was thinking that, if I try to fit a piece of gear cable outer over the existing cable, given that the cable is already a bit deformed where it attaches to the shifter, it was going to be impossible to push it into the cable cover, as it would stick…

 

That's a good point about the deformation where the cable clamps onto the rear derailleur. TBH I can't remember for sure whether I changed the whole cable or not (and I've done three conversions like that now - what a memory!) but there's a good chance that using pliers you could straighten out enough of the deformation to get the outer over it.

 

With regard to your use of the impact driver on the BB removal tool - I can see you're mechanical knowledge didn't need me to chip in .

 

For those who might not have access to an impact driver, I use a crank bolt and wide steel spacer to ensure the BB tool stays squarely into the BB splines and then I use a long 1/2 inch breaker bar to undue things - hopefully the pic makes that idea clearer?

My last gear cable inner cost £2.50. I'd just fit a new one.

That setup with the bolt and spacer is quite neat, and, in my opinion, the only way to use a wrench with sufficient lever without risk of stripping the grooves in the bracket bolt. I would recommend anyone who cannot have access to an impact driver to go that route rather than trying to do it just by pressing manually against the bracket.

I will check if I can fit the motor (when it arrives, it is taking longer than expected...) without fiddling with the gear cables but, if the cable doesn’t fit, given the price difference, I will certainly buy a kit of cable and outer cable… Will post pictures when (hopefully when, and not if…) the motor arrives and I fit it

 

It takes a bit of doing and you may have to jiggle (technical term )the motor and outer around a bit.

 

That's a good point about the deformation where the cable clamps onto the rear derailleur. TBH I can't remember for sure whether I changed the whole cable or not (and I've done three conversions like that now - what a memory!) but there's a good chance that using pliers you could straighten out enough of the deformation to get the outer over it.

 

With regard to your use of the impact driver on the BB removal tool - I can see you're mechanical knowledge didn't need me to chip in .

 

For those who might not have access to an impact driver, I use a crank bolt and wide steel spacer to ensure the BB tool stays squarely into the BB splines and then I use a long 1/2 inch breaker bar to undue things - hopefully the pic makes that idea clearer?

[ATTACH=full]49042[/ATTACH]

a

It takes a bit of doing and you may have to jiggle (technical term )the motor and outer around a bit.

 

That's a good point about the deformation where the cable clamps onto the rear derailleur. TBH I can't remember for sure whether I changed the whole cable or not (and I've done three conversions like that now - what a memory!) but there's a good chance that using pliers you could straighten out enough of the deformation to get the outer over it.

 

With regard to your use of the impact driver on the BB removal tool - I can see you're mechanical knowledge didn't need me to chip in .

 

For those who might not have access to an impact driver, I use a crank bolt and wide steel spacer to ensure the BB tool stays squarely into the BB splines and then I use a long 1/2 inch breaker bar to undue things - hopefully the pic makes that idea clearer?

[ATTACH type=full" alt="49042]49042[/ATTACH]

I finally did my conversion. First engine I ordered did not arrive, so I ordered another one to a different supplier once I got the refund. It's a TSDZ2 36v 350 W. I had to re-route my gear cable,as it was routed under the bottom bracket. I bought new cable and outer sleeve and routed it under the bottom tube. An issue I had is that, even though I didn't use any shims on the right side, the offset difference between the pedals was huge, with 4cm distance to the wheel arm on the right side vs 2 cm on the left side. I ordered a Bafang right crank,which has almost no offset (way less than the one that came with the TSDZ2, as you see in the last picture)a nd it's now much better, with only 2,5 cm on the right. I encourage this change,as it improves alignment of both legs when pedaling. The engine runs great and I have already posted 85Km in just two days. Next addition is a telescopic seat post,which is much safer in off-road use.

I used shimano e6000 cranks for my tsdz2 , lessened the Q by 24mm.