Anybody in NW England who could look at this wheel motor attached to Giant Suede?

Basically was working great until wheel came off front forks. cable in seems ok . One resistor I think blown . Th it somebody to look but they’re not bike expert . If not in north west I do travel with my job so possible can drop off . Thanks

There's a pretty good chance that the wiring/a wire within the external sheath will be shorted or broken esp when a wheel spins out.

With the motor open they should be quite easy to test for continuity.

There's a pretty good chance that the wiring/a wire within the external sheath will be shorted or broken esp when a wheel spins out.

With the motor open they should be quite easy to test for continuity.

The wiring was checked but I’ll double check . But really hoping I can find a local member who can look at it

Thanks

Mike

The wiring was checked but I’ll double check . But really hoping I can find a local member who can look at it

Thanks

Mike

There's a pretty good chance that the wiring/a wire within the external sheath will be shorted or broken esp when a wheel spins out.

With the motor open they should be quite easy to test for continuity.

the cable is threaded directly into the axle and soldered to the board . thereS no plug connection . so can I beep test each soldered cable on the board Se e photo

Yes you can test continuity direct from the pcb contact and the wiring to the controller connector/s. Also test the three thicker phase wires Blue, Green & Yellow, access to the phase ends isn't possible as they disappear in to the windings. To get a contact simply cut the out sheaf and poke a probe on to the wire for a contact and then probe the other end at the controller. The phase wire can simply be repaired with a wrap of insulating tape if needed.

Edited July 31, 20205 yr by Nealh

Yes you can test continuity direct from the pcb contact and the wiring to the controller connector/s. Also test the three thicker phase wires Blue, Green & Yellow, access to the phase ends isn't possible as they disappear in to the windings. To get a contact simply cut the out sheaf and poke a probe on to the wire for a contact and then probe the other end at the controller. The phase wire can simply be repaired with a wrap of insulating tape if needed.

Sorry I didn’t see this reply I replied on your other post

Thanks

Yes you can test continuity direct from the pcb contact and the wiring to the controller connector/s. Also test the three thicker phase wires Blue, Green & Yellow, access to the phase ends isn't possible as they disappear in to the windings. To get a contact simply cut the out sheaf and poke a probe on to the wire for a contact and then probe the other end at the controller. The phase wire can simply be repaired with a wrap of insulating tape if needed.

Ah I think I need to clarify if I’ve understood well .

1. I can test directly from the soldered wires on the board but not by putting both probes to each solder point

2. I need to have one probe to solder point and other to connection to controller

I was trying to avoid removing the cowling coveting the controller on this Giant Suede cus I believe they’re a pain to remove refit . But if I’ve no choice .

Ah I think I need to clarify if I’ve understood well .

1. I can test directly from the soldered wires on the board but not by putting both probes to each solder point

2. I need to have one probe to solder point and other to connection to controller

I was trying to avoid removing the cowling coveting the controller on this Giant Suede cus I believe they’re a pain to remove refit . But if I’ve no choice .

Yes you can test continuity direct from the pcb contact and the wiring to the controller connector/s. Also test the three thicker phase wires Blue, Green & Yellow, access to the phase ends isn't possible as they disappear in to the windings. To get a contact simply cut the out sheaf and poke a probe on to the wire for a contact and then probe the other end at the controller. The phase wire can simply be repaired with a wrap of insulating tape if needed.

Do you think it would be worth fitting a plug connector close to the wheel because any damage should be only in the cable nearest to the wheel ?? Then it’s easier if I need to remove wheel and also easier to check between the solder and the plug contacts . What would you advise please

Mike

I have a longer story about the components on the board I won’t bore you with it just now th I’ll I solve if wiring is intact

Are you saying there is no connector between the motor and controller?

Are you saying there is no connector between the motor and controller?

There no connector near the wheel. the cable runs directly in to the board . I’m sure there will be some kind of connector at the controller . I’ve not seen it . The problem if any with wiring will

Be at the wheel end after it came off. Whatever is at controller end it was fine before wheel came off

I’m sure there will be some kind of connector at the controller . I’ve not seen it

You need access to both ends of the motor cable in order to carry out a continuity (beep) test. A meter probe on each end of the wires one at a time will tell you if it is intact or broken.

This is what my 250W Voilamart front motor looks like:

 

 

The soldering on yours looks shocking!

 

The wires going to Voilamart motors are incredibly thin, so I would not be surprised if they had twisted when the motor came out of the forks and been damaged.

 

The normal Voilamart kit comes with bullet connectors between the controller and the motor and a 6 way plastic plug for the Hall sensors.

Edited July 31, 20205 yr by WheezyRider

The soldering on yours looks shocking!

I think a friend of the OP has been in there trying some sort of repair.

Do you think it would be worth fitting a plug connector close to the wheel because any damage should be only in the cable nearest to the wheel ?? Then it’s easier if I need to remove wheel and also easier to check between the solder and the plug contacts . What would you advise please

Mike

I have a longer story about the components on the board I won’t bore you with it just now th I’ll I solve if wiring is intact

 

 

On my rear Voilamart, I used an MT60 connector for the 3 motor power wires, placing that near to the motor, then the wires going from that to the controller I replaced with meatier gauge cable.

 

For the Hall sensor wires, you can use one of these, but it's a bit bulky:

 

This is what my 250W Voilamart front motor looks like:

 

[ATTACH type=full" alt="37375]37375[/ATTACH]

 

The soldering on yours looks shocking!

 

The wires going to Voilamart motors are incredibly thin, so I would not be surprised if they had twisted when the motor came out of the forks and been damaged.

 

The normal Voilamart kit comes with bullet connectors between the controller and the motor and a 6 way plastic plug for the Hall sensors.

Just for my own understanding, I'd like to know what those two components do, marked R1 and R2. Is there any chance that you could scrape the via hole on the corner of the "H" and test continuity to every single solder pad to see where it goes?

Just for my own understanding, I'd like to know what those two components do, marked R1 and R2. Is there any chance that you could scrape the via hole on the corner of the "H" and test continuity to every single solder pad to see where it goes?

 

It's interesting that Mike's motor seems to have nothing connected to Q4.

 

I'm also wondering what that the yellow wire is like under this bit of shrinkwrap:

 

 

If you look at my motor, the pad marked H (connected to R1/R2) goes to the white wire, which is the speed limiter wire

Just for my own understanding, I'd like to know what those two components do, marked R1 and R2. Is there any chance that you could scrape the via hole on the corner of the "H" and test continuity to every single solder pad to see where it goes?

It’s bit of a minefield this . wheezyriders motor has wires connected to q4 mine doesn't have those connections but it worked fine without them. The replacement board on aliexpress didn’t have R1 and R2 components. But as you said , forget the board for now . I need to try and get beep test done . Please can I emphasise I didn’t ever do any tests like this before so you can’t assume I know certain things. I need every single move Where from , where to and every single place Where I’ll find it . I now understand that beep test is between the wires at solder point and the controller . What you told me seemEd different . Ain’t got a clue where the big and small pins are that you mentioned.

R2 seems to only connect to H, where the speed limiter connects.

 

My guess with R1 is that it connects through the board (see pic) and connects to the 5V line (I can't see the back side of the board and it's a bit late to do any probing tonight). It connects to the same end pin of all the Hall sensors.

 

I think a friend of the OP has been in there trying some sort of repair.

A Well meaning But absolute incompetent frankly got his hands on it . Told me he could help and apart from the terrible soldering he totally guessed what to do and replaced sensors without even checking them . I’m told he replaced them with wrong type 49e . Then he replaced a faulty what I think was a resistor at R2. But he put a capacitor there . I think the board will be replaced . Seen on Ali express . I want to eliminate wiring faults if any first

It’s bit of a minefield this . wheezyriders motor has wires connected to q4 mine doesn't have those connections but it worked fine without them. The replacement board on aliexpress didn’t have R1 and R2 components. But as you said , forget the board for now . I need to try and get beep test done . Please can I emphasise I didn’t ever do any tests like this before so you can’t assume I know certain things. I need every single move Where from , where to and every single place Where I’ll find it . I now understand that beep test is between the wires at solder point and the controller . What you told me seemEd different . Ain’t got a clue where the big and small pins are that you mentioned.

 

 

With the first controller I had from Voilamart, the white wire was not even soldered onto the PCB inside it! It ran ok though. The Hall sensing part of that controller died after a while, and although noisy, the motor still ran, even with the Hall sensors not connected.

 

Is your motor running at all?

A Well meaning But absolute incompetent frankly got his hands on it . Told me he could help and apart from the terrible soldering he totally guessed what to do and replaced sensors without even checking them . I’m told he replaced them with wrong type 49e . Then he replaced a faulty what I think was a resistor at R2. But he put a capacitor there . I think the board will be replaced . Seen on Ali express . I want to eliminate wiring faults if any first

 

 

Oh dear...

 

Looking at things briefly, it doesn't look like R2 does anything if no speed limiting wire is connected, (it doesn't look like there is a through board connection at the pad). If that's the case it shouldn't make a difference if it has been swapped with a capacitor.

 

I'll have another look at mine tomorrow.

 

Do you have a link to the Ali express board?

It's interesting that Mike's motor seems to have nothing connected to Q4.

 

I'm also wondering what that the yellow wire is like under this bit of shrinkwrap:

 

[ATTACH type=full" alt="37378]37378[/ATTACH]

 

If you look at my motor, the pad marked H (connected to R1/R2) goes to the white wire, which is the speed limiter wire

You know guys whatever the differences in my board to others it worked great before wheel dropped out. Continuity first then I’ve got to decide if board has SM components replaced or buy new board on Ali . BUT NOW I SEE THAT Ali BOARD HAS no R1 And R2. Ok stick with it cable continuity test Sunday .

With the first controller I had from Voilamart, the white wire was not even soldered onto the PCB inside it! It ran ok though. The Hall sensing part of that controller died after a while, and although noisy, the motor still ran, even with the Hall sensors not connected.

 

Is your motor running at all?

Motor is dead ever since wheel dropped out

Oh dear...

 

Looking at things briefly, it doesn't look like R2 does anything if no speed limiting wire is connected, (it doesn't look like there is a through board connection at the pad). If that's the case it shouldn't make a difference if it has been swapped with a capacitor.

 

I'll have another look at mine tomorrow.

 

Do you have a link to the Ali express board?

I’ll send it but note as in other replies the Ali board has no R1 or R2

I’ll send it but note as in other replies the Ali board has no R1 or R2

 

 

Thanks, it would be of personal interest, as I have a couple of these motors, but I don't know who the original manufacturer is.