The bike was used by the previous owner (before it stopped working) so I think it's safe to assume it did work before.

 

Got a sneaking suspicion they jet-washed it. Should probably open the motor and have a look in there.

The hub won't cause the electrical connection issue of melting contacts.

The hub won't cause the electrical connection issue of melting contacts.

No, I didn't think it would. But based on some corrosion I'd found in the battery I suspected they'd jet washed it. In which case the motor would need inspecting. Turns out it's fine. So if they did jet wash it there was no evidence of ingress in the motor.

Grease is a bit sparse, it won't hurt to put a nice dollop in there and it will run quieter as well. Any non petroleum based one is good so as not to damage the nylon gears.

Other wise yes the motor is spick n span, I have ridden my bafang cst through water over the axle with no water ingress on a few occasion's. Being not under pressure no harm is done, though I do syringe white water resistant grease into the axle as best as I can.

OK. Going to try a new speed controller. Problem is I can't figure out which one to buy. I'd rather buy one with julet (waterproof) fittings so I can just plug my parts directly into it.

 

This Liushui one looks good

1. However it has a different battery connection (not a huge problem I can just buy the opposite side and solder it to my battery - but I don't know what connector it is - any ideas?).
   
2. From what I've read online it requires a particular display to work. I have a very basic display/control. Which I may upgrade at some point but not just yet.
   
3. Most importantly it has a 1 to 4/5 cable connection with 8 pins. Mine only has 6 pins. Can I just buy a new 1 to 4 cable with 8 pins to match? Here is a thread on Pedelecs where user Gingafuzz has the same connector (for reference)
   

 

Alternatively I could buy this one which is largely the same but it comes with more user friendly battery cables. Plus it has a light socket! Although I still have problems 1 (and potentially 2) from above.

Also as I've not actually got the thing working I was wondering, will the 250w motor actually get me up some of the steep hills round me? One opposite my road is approx 13.5% gradient (1 in 7.5 - according to Google Maps) and a couple of hundred metres long - plus there are many more hills around here. I'm around 95kg. Don't mind a bit of pedaling, just rather not break into a sweat and be out of breath every time I pop up to the shops.

Edited October 14, 20214 yr by UnclePuncher

A KT controller needs a matching display, also they are current control controllers though do have a speed controller setting which needs an lcd to change it.

 

As your hub is only 6 wires you need a controller with the hall sensor block connector, then you should be able to just wire the 3 hall wires colour to colour.

 

At 95kg 15a at 36v will likely struggle esp if the motor winding is too fast, the controller will over heat at slow speeds on steep hills.

Edited October 14, 20214 yr by Nealh

Its working. Bought a new controller in the end. That meant having to buy a new cable to connect the brakes, display etc.... Which came on a very slow boat from China.

 

Slight problem the new cable it has 3 pin connections for the brake levers and my levers are 2 pin. Could just buy some new levers but most sellers don't show which connectors the brakes have. So I was thinking of just hardwiring the ones I have. Does anyone have a pin out of the brakes/cable? I'd imagine its just a case of wiring the same coloured cables together but would rather check before I start cutting cables. I'm at a loss as to what the purpose of the third cable is.

 

Obviously the bike works fine without the brakes connected to the electrical system but of course it'd be better if they were working.

 

Might have just answered my own question.

 

What does the red pin do?

I'm at a loss as to what the purpose of the third cable is.

Probably a two way switch, so common (first) wire is connected to one of the others (second) when brake pressed, and to the other other (third) when brake released.

Almost all of the Julet brake levers I've found are 2 pin, not 3.

All the brake levers look so cheap and ugly. Tempted to get the magnet switch alone. Got lots of pairs of decent V-brake levers (non-ebike ones). Makes sense to make use of them instead.

 

Anyone used this style (mostly sold as 'for hydraulic levers'). Does it work well? I'd imagine the magnet could get lost/fall off in a crash, if not stuck on very well.

I`v got some for sale look in classifieds on the left 3 pin julet female never used with magnets still in bags.

2 pin brakes use a Reed sensor these don't need the 5v supply, the three pin brakes use a hall sensor so you have Gnd, 5v & signal. Simply put it is down to the type of sensor used in the levers.

I`v got some for sale look in classifieds on the left 3 pin julet female never used with magnets still in bags.

Thanks. I have to try and get the bike working properly first and decide what I'm going to do with it*.

 

I may buy them but not yet. Don't hang on to them for me.

Thinking I should've bought a more powerful system. It really struggles on the hills round here.

For 3 wire brakes one has to use hall effect brakes in the search.

2 pin brakes use a Reed sensor these don't need the 5v supply, the three pin brakes use a hall sensor so you have Gnd, 5v & signal. Simply put it is down to the type of sensor used in the levers.

Mine appear to be a push switch. I took one apart. The blade hits the pushbutton (in the body of the lever).

Hi again

 

Bike is working fine. Apart from I can't get the pedal assist/cadence sensor to work. I'm just using the throttle which is ok but not ideal.

 

I was waiting on a 3 pin julet extension as it wouldn't reach the speed controller since I relocated it. I've got that now but its still not doing anything. From memory (its a few years since I rode a different ebike) the motor should kick in as I'm pedaling, right? (after a revolution or two at most). I've tried it a bunch of times and nothing happens. Tried pedaling for a little while and no power assist happens. I disconnected the thumb throttle too but that didn't do anything. Bike is set to max power.

 

The sensor is working (or at least it appears to be) as I can see a tiny red LED on it when I spin the pedals with the ebike turned on.

 

Any ideas?

 

I'll post some picks of the sensor.

I had a bit of a look to see how I can test if the PAS is working (before I noticed the light) but can't seem to find a way. Surely it'd give some kind of a signal as I pedal from magnets passing over the sensor. Tried testing it using my multimeter on resistance mode but nothing registered.

Pedal sensor led should blink as it passes each magnet, if the light stays on then sounds like the wiring is connected in correct. One should see 5v on Gnd to 5v and 0 - 1v Gnd to signal as the magnet passes.

Is the controller definitely a Julet or is it a Higo ?

Edited December 6, 20214 yr by Nealh

Which/what controller is being used ?

Pedal sensor led should blink as it passes each magnet, if the light stays on then sounds like the wiring is connected in correct. One should see 5v on Gnd to 5v and 0 - 1v Gnd to signal as the magnet passes.

Is the controller definitely a Julet or is it a Higo ?

 

Thanks.

 

LED flashes briefly as the pedals turn. It doesn't stay on.

 

I can't test the voltages once its connected and the bike is on.

 

Its one of these yellow cables. Which is Julet isn't it?

Going to a speed controller with the same connectors. This one to be precise.

.

The fact it blinks on/off is good so sounds like it is wired ok, make sure the disc to sensor gap is about 1mm or less.

What happens with reverse pedal does it work then ?

Julet and Higo both make a vert similar connector and they are a compatible fit, the issue is the wire pinouts don't match. But in your case the led blinking indicates they match.

Higo is used in the main by Bafang.