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What cable required

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Can anyone here tell me what cable do I need for a electric moped motor. It has to have 3 phase wires and 5 sensor wires
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  • Author

Use a standard 9 pin motor cable just leave the White speed hall wire unused.

60/130/160cm/9Pin EBike Bicycle Female To Male Connector Motor Extension-Cable | eBay

 

 

Im a bit confused, as where are the 3 phase wires, which need ring connectors plus also 5 sensors wires too. as from the motor to junction box. is where the phase wires are connected

 

Also I need to get this side plate off to see wires and to remove old ones, would a Gear puller remove that cover

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  • Author

Use your loaf cut the plug ends off to expose the 9 wires or do a search and find one without.

E-bike 9Pin Motor Extension Cable Cord For Bafang Front Rear Wheel Hub-Motors | eBay

 

ok sorry and thanks but I need to get that side plate off to remove old wires so hope a gear puller will work any help on removing that side case then

Edited by billyboya

  • Author

Motor cable replacement is never easy.

In the video he may have made the pulling through tougher by not lubing the cable or the hollow axle, grease is not good and needs something super slippy. For this I would use an everyday item found in the fridge, spread used on bread.

 

How to replace a damaged cable harness in an ebike hub motor - Bing video

 

thanks ;)

gotta admire your staying power with this project, if that moped was mine it would of been swimming with the shopping trolleys in the canal a long time ago
  • Author

gotta admire your staying power with this project, if that moped was mine it would of been swimming with the shopping trolleys in the canal a long time ago

 

Well what's the point in dumping it, when I have paid out all that money, as it was going ok, except when it slowed down, and its not the battery, or controller, as both been replaced. I'm now on the last stages of it the motor. new cable , new battery power lead, not a IEC plug no more but a deans cable, a new throttle, bingo all working again fingers crossed. I'm no hurry as too cold to ride it this weather anyway

 

Plus its all knowledgeable as what I've learnt about the moped so far will be handy if I need to repair again

Edited by billyboya

The only thing I find strange is in other threads you say it was 39km/h capable but e -rider only ever claimed it was 25km/h capable for the 15 model so that it complied with pedelec law.
  • Author

The only thing I find strange is in other threads you say it was 39km/h capable but e -rider only ever claimed it was 25km/h capable for the 15 model so that it complied with pedelec law.

 

Yes I agree and yes it did say on display 39 Km/h. But this motor has been altered as the previous owner. Not the person I bought it off. Had added it seems a extra wire to motor. Although it wasn’t attached to anything. But there is a plug on old controller which I never plugged in anywhere which has a connection from brown wire back into same wire where it plugs in or where it’s supposed to. I did read on YouTube someone doing that to increase speed. Also the power lead on moped is broke now as when trying to remove freewheel I had to press the tool tight to lock it in the 4 groves to undo it. So wires got cut so had to cut off cable. But I now have a problem getting the side case off so I can remove old wires ready for new cable. I have ordered a 6in gear puller as my old 4in one was not long enough so I hope it will come off ok as if not I’m stuck

 

Yes I also thought of using butter from fridge as that's slippery But need to access wires inside 1st to see what's what

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Edited by billyboya

Well what's the point in dumping it, when I have paid out all that money, as it was going ok, except when it slowed down, and its not the battery, or controller, as both been replaced. I'm now on the last stages of it the motor. new cable , new battery power lead, not a IEC plug no more but a deans cable, a new throttle, bingo all working again fingers crossed. I'm no hurry as too cold to ride it this weather anyway

 

Plus its all knowledgeable as what I've learnt about the moped so far will be handy if I need to repair again

yep it owes a lot, so understandable you're sticking with it after replacing everything

I'm not sure you can pull that off any more ? Otherwise the bloke at GRIN would have done so to make the job easier.
  • Author

I'm not sure you can pull that off any more ? Otherwise the bloke at GRIN would have done so to make the job easier.

 

Well there is no way I can access the wires inside. but not received 6" gear puller yet its arriving today so will try that. maybe that man on grin didn't think of removing the side cover. I mean look at him using his feet to pull cable through not very pro is he

 

if anything he has stretched the cable. like you said some butter will make cable slip through

 

I wont want him to fix my moped motor.

  • Author
What a idiot I am a bloody 6in gear puller is way too small I should have measured side plate 1st it’s 9 1/2in wide. So it’s 10in I need this dam moped is slowly getting close to being dumped Lol. Grghhhh

What a idiot I am a bloody 6in gear puller is way too small I should have measured side plate 1st it’s 9 1/2in wide. So it’s 10in I need this dam moped is slowly getting close to being dumped Lol. Grghhhh

Re attach the freewheel leaving enough room for the legs of the puller to go under it. You can't put the puller legs on the outside of the casing, it will either bend or break. TBH, I can't see how it's gonna help removing the cover as the cable exits behind that rivetted steel plate.

 

Edit.

Looking again at photo, I'm not sure you can strip this down any further. I think maybe the outer casing and the steel inner plate are held together by those rivets. Have a peek through the cut outs in the plate and see whats behind the rivets.

Edited by wheeliepete

  • Author

Re attach the freewheel leaving enough room for the legs of the puller to go under it. You can't put the puller legs on the outside of the casing, it will either bend or break. TBH, I can't see how it's gonna help removing the cover as the cable exits behind that rivetted steel plate.

 

No you are right as the wires on opp side of freewheel Need to be cut. Like he does in that grin YouTube video then I can see if I can. Grip all those loose wires with a pair of pliers. And pull through freewheel side. Then thread new cable through. But only trouble is I don’t have a clue what wires to cut. Nealh was also right about that freewheel side case stays on. As in that grin video his is left on. I’m so grateful to you all for telling me this as I would have probably like you said crack casing.

 

btw that unattached wire must have been problem as it just pulled through so obviously was broke that’s why wheel didn’t spin

 

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With you hub the cable end exit in the hub can't be seen and so far the hall sensor's aren't visible.

Edited by Nealh

  • Author

With you hub the cake end exit in the hu can't be seen and so far the hall sensor's aren't visible.

 

I’m very confused what’s cake and hu Can you repeat please

 

are these the sensors but they seem to be on the freewheel side

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Edited by billyboya

  • Author

Re attach the freewheel leaving enough room for the legs of the puller to go under it. You can't put the puller legs on the outside of the casing, it will either bend or break. TBH, I can't see how it's gonna help removing the cover as the cable exits behind that rivetted steel plate.

 

Edit.

Looking again at photo, I'm not sure you can strip this down any further. I think maybe the outer casing and the steel inner plate are held together by those rivets. Have a peek through the cut outs in the plate and see whats behind the rivets.

 

I have checked behind the rivets and there isn’t anything but can see the wires now when I shine a torch behind inside case. So will case come off then if I replace freewheel then use gear puller to get case off

 

EDIT: Well I’ve attached the freewheel and now using gear puller and it does seem to be coming off well slowly as I can see it’s moved so will try a bit more tomoz but slowly

Edited by billyboya

I have checked behind the rivets and there isn’t anything but can see the wires now when I shine a torch behind inside case. So will case come off then if I replace freewheel then use gear puller to get case off

TBH I have no idea, not worked on a motor like this one. If you have watched the video of cable replacement, you can see that you need good access to the axle where the cable enters the motor on the inside and I can't see removing the outer casing is not going to give you this.

  • Author

TBH I have no idea, not worked on a motor like this one. If you have watched the video of cable replacement, you can see that you need good access to the axle where the cable enters the motor on the inside and I can't see removing the outer casing is not going to give you this.

 

Well by removing case it will give me more access to the wires and where they go

 

well case has come off ok and now can see the sensor and phase wires

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Edited by billyboya

  • Author

If you do try to pull a new cable through, then something like this might help:

https://www.screwfix.com/p/ideal-yellow-77-wire-cable-pulling-lubricant-950ml/44462

 

Yes may try that or like Nealh said butter from fridge lol but god knows how I’m going to thread 8 wired or 9 cable through the axle as it seems it goes through side of axle and out through top but I can see a clip at bottom of axle so maybe that will remove that end of axle not sure yet also not sure if sensors need replacing I think they ok

 

Or this even cheaper

 

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B001RN84SY/ref=cm_sw_r_oth_api_glt_i_AJC2ZZ3XFPT6CK8W7XHP

Edited by billyboya

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