Hello,

 

I'm trying to configure a kit from scratch. So its ugly but looking to test the setup before reducing wires down etc

 

Kit consists of:

 

Battery case holder with integrated KT 15A sinewave controller

Yose 10Ah battery of similar design

KT LCD4 display

Cyclotricity 12 pole PAS Sensor

9-pin extension cable from internal controller to front hub motor

System cable from internal controller to LCD4 with unused brake sensors and throttle attachments

Test 1. Front Hub 250W Motor Cyclotricity

Test 2. Front Hub 250W Motor LVBU

 

The LCD4 shows full battery and recognises speed when I peddle.

The PAS sensor light flickers when the pedals are turned.

The motor cables are fully engaged.

 

So I'm trying to understand if this is an incompatible motor problem or whether I'm meant to set some parameters with the LCD4. I'm just looking to get everything talking to each other and power on.

 

Any clever people offer any advice please?

 

Relevant photos are attached.

List the P & C values for us. There is little to go wrong if the parameters are ok.

The most important one is as mentioned below the PAS setting .

For motor setting P1 87 should be a good starting point.

 

Two x red julet are brake sensors so reed sw type.

Yellow julet is for throttle.

If not using any of them place heat shrink over them to blank off.

 

PAS disc/sensor is DL12 so C1 ought to be value 00 ,01 or likely 02.

If one gets no joy with pas operation check it doesn't work with reverse pedal, if it works in reverse pedal flip the magnet disc over so the other side is facing out.out.

Edited October 14, 20223 yr by Nealh

Thank you. I hadn't looked at the settings as I naively assumed it worked out of the box. So I guess they're set at the factory settings.

 

I've set the max speed and the wheel size.

 

The remaining P and C settings show as:

 

P1 87

P2 01

P3 01

P4 00

P5 12

 

C1 07

C2 00

C3 08

C4 00

C5 10

C6 03

C7 00

C8 00

C9 00

 

The Cyclotricity is a direct drive and the LVBU a geared motor. I currently have the LVBU wheel installed.

 

What does the above say to you?

 

Best wishes

C1, does the PAS work at this setting ?

If not try 03.

There should be C10 - C14.

 

 

The D/D hub if used, should be set to P1/46.

Well something has happened. Adjusted the P1 and C1 to recommendation and power is applied when I turn. Need to sort the setup properly but if it wasn't for this forum I'd be stuck. Thank you.

P1 & C1 are the two to affect motor & PAS.

 

C3 relates to the display PAS setting, 0 - 5 means when you switch off & on again PAS will always be set to that PAS level , 8 means PAS will be in the last level used.

I always set my PAS to 0 so that one can't accidently activate pas and have the bike shoot off, no matter which PAS level last used when switching on again it auto sets to 0.

 

C5 is current setting and reduces current, 10 being max current.

C12 chnages controller lvc, 4 is std setting for 30/40v for 36/48v respectively.

C14 is PAS sensitivity ,1 weak - 3 strong.

Other wise the others don't need touching.

Edited October 15, 20223 yr by Nealh

Got back to this and it's working! Kind of.

 

It is working, kicks in, then the speed display jumps around and so does the power assist.

 

Cyclotricity D/D with YOSE battery, 12-pole PAS and KT controller with LCD4.

 

Settings are:

P1 - 46

P2 - 0

P3 - 1

P4 - 0

P5 - 15

 

C1 - 2

C2 - 0

C3 - 8

C4 - 0

C5 - 10

C6 - 3

C7 - 0

C8 - 0

C9 - 0

C10 - n

C11 - 0

C12 - 4

C13 - 0

C14 - 2

 

Any clever people understand how the speed display works and how to stop it jumping around?

Are you sure the PAS sensor is properly mounted and aligned?

Are you sure the PAS sensor is properly mounted and aligned?

Interesting. It is in that the red light flashes as the crank turns. But because of the shape of the downtube, its at an angle somewhat.

 

I tried an internal KT PAS discovered I don't have the correct crank shape or space for it.

I had those intermittent symptoms when my wheel sensor failed.

 

There's enough indications that it is involved to fix the pas installation before going any further.

I ditched my lcd4 because it was erratic, odo not correctly displaying speed and at times when freewheeling no speed readout. All originally worked ok with lcd3 so eventually gave up and tried the LCD3 I use to use and all was ok again.

I can only assume either a bad batch of lcd4's produced or the processor inside can't deal with the info, also had issues with the toggle up/down pads.

I ditched my lcd4 because it was erratic, odo not correctly displaying speed and at times when freewheeling no speed readout.

 

This is interesting. I now have the system working but the LCD4 mph is way to high. Its showing 25 mph when I know Im doing around 15mph. As a result, Ive had to bump up the max mph.

 

Did you find the same thing? And how is it measuring speed? A sensor in the wheel or the PAS?

 

Many thanks

Has to be a wheel sensor, or internal to the hub motor. PAS changes every time you change gear.

 

There is a conversion somewhere from wheel rpm which is measured, to mph which is displayed. Is there a setting in the controller for wheel size?

If the lcd is over reading speed then reduce P1 setting value to see if it changes.

P1 46 is pretty std setting for a D/D hub but doesn't mean 46 is the correct value.

If the lcd is over reading speed then reduce P1 setting value to see if it changes.

P1 46 is pretty std setting for a D/D hub but doesn't mean 46 is the correct value.

I'm now reading that the Cyclotricity hub is a geared motor though. There's some resistance when reverse freewheeling. These P settings are really non-user friendly.

 

Can anyone advise the P1 setting if its a geared motor as getting the info out of Cyclotricity is like blood from a stone

All sorted! So from reading previous threads I took a punt that its a 5:1, 20 magnet MXUS XF07 hub motor from Cyclotricity and amended the P1 setting to 100.

 

Works an absolute dream!

 

Thanks pedelecs

P1 is simple if the correct motor is known and its reduction is known. As it is geared 100 is close but 84 may be even closer, the best way is to ride with a gps andadjust P1 so the lcd speed and gps pretty well match if lcd is set for 25kmh for the adjustment.

All sorted! So from reading previous threads I took a punt that its a 5:1, 20 magnet MXUS XF07 hub motor from Cyclotricity and amended the P1 setting to 100.

 

Works an absolute dream!

 

Thanks pedelecs

 

Hi there,

I bought a Brompton e-kit with the following specifications. The throttle works but the PAS does not. I am pedalling but no power is being transferred to the motor. I have made some changes according to what is written in the forum but my problem is still not solved. I thought you could help me.

Hi there,

I bought a Brompton e-kit with the following specifications. The throttle works but the PAS does not. I am pedalling but no power is being transferred to the motor. I have made some changes according to what is written in the forum but my problem is still not solved. I thought you could help me.

Start a new thread and makes sure you tell us exactly what kit you have (every part), or, better still, show us.

Start a new thread and makes sure you tell us exactly what kit you have (every part), or, better still, show us.

 

I forgot to add the kit features. I have opened a new topic as you said. Thanks for your interest.