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First ladies ebike recommendations

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I'm brand new to the world of ebikes and slightly overwhelmed by the choice! I'd love some recommendations, either for specific bikes or for general things I should be looking for.

 

Budget is around £2K.

 

I'm 5'3 and slight, looking for a step through, upright bike which could take a child seat on the back rack.

 

Battery-wise I don't need a huge range as it'll mostly be used for pottering around town. Terrain is fairly flat but I'm not a strong cyclist so when there is a hill I need some help! But I don't know what that translates to in terms of power/torque.

 

Thanks in advance :)

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A bit over your budget, but thqats the nature of things ebike. You most definitely get what you pay for.

I'd recommend mid drive - Bosch or Shimano

 

https://www.halfords.com/bikes/electric-bikes/frappe-fsc-401-electric-hybrid-bike---grey---46cm-50cm-frames-753886.html?stockInventory=undefined&_gl=1*p4iij0*_up*MQ..&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI4ObJx6Cv_gIVjc3tCh2UNQmdEAAYASAAEgJxWvD_BwE

 

Bosch is probably the current industry leader.

https://www.halfords.com/bikes/electric-bikes/lapierre-overvolt-5.4-mix-frame-hardtail-electric-mountain-bike---37cm-40cm-44cm-frames-813278.html?dwvar_813278_colour=Silver&_gl=1*1lwusop*_up*MQ..&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI4ObJx6Cv_gIVjc3tCh2UNQmdEAAYASAAEgJxWvD_BwE

 

Bikes bought via online, or dodgy Chinese makes youve never heard of will likely cause probs.

If you can try to get something froma shop in your town/city as it makes sorting any issues far easier

dont buy any bike with a shitmano motor or a bosch smart motor atm best mid drive is the Yamaha ones as all parts can be bought.
Have a look at the Wisper wafarer models , one wil be guaranteed quality service as David the CEO posts on the forum and tries to go the extra mile , also he can certify your bike to have a legal throttle if you need one.

Have a look at the Wisper wafarer models , one wil be guaranteed quality service as David the CEO posts on the forum and tries to go the extra mile , also he can certify your bike to have a legal throttle if you need one.

 

Thanks Neal!

 

Both the Traditional 705 or the Wayfarer M7 would fit the bill.

Lilliput now has a few options for up to her £2k budget.

As SW mentions the shimano & Bosch options are or might be an issue after 2 years when warranty runs out, then you are left with expensive repair options should a fault occur. One can mitigate that by selling the bike every 18months or so and getting a new one , one does see this often with used bikes for sale less then 2 years old.

 

For the flat terrain then tbh a hub motor pedelec will be the ideal option , the user has said it is for pottering about so a mid drive really isn't needed. Over time the reliability of the hub motor will be far better.

 

A hub motor with a good controller and 5 power levels of assistance esp if the power is current control delivered will be more then good enough for flat terrain.

 

Tbh the only gain with a mid drive is in hilly terrain or proper off road riding,

Thanks Neal!

 

Both the Traditional 705 or the Wayfarer M7 would fit the bill.

A spelling mistake there , shoud have read Wayfarer.

Edited by Nealh

I'm an advocate for hub drives simply because of there simplicity and reliability, I have yet not had any hub motor fail me but have had a kit mid drive fail me twice .

 

Most simply post regarding mid drive this or that brand because that is what they ride , but they don't convey where or what discipline they ride.

One will find the ones mostly advocating these drives use them for faster riding or very off road disciplines which is fine. But for pottering about they tbh aren't needed and a far simpler more relaxing option is a hub motor.

 

It is dependant on the control power delivery used.

There are two types of power delivery cheaper 3 spd /3 levels of assist that use Speed Control or the nicer poer delievry options of current control/ simulated torque delivery, these mostly use 5 levels of assist.

 

Some bikes with the basic speed controllers use maximum power in each assistance level, with each assistance level having a set max speed. The issue with these systems is one can't control the power delivery as one gets a max acceleration all the time , the worse bit being at low speed or setting off . It can lead to less control or spook the rider at low speed so makes for a harsher ride and puts one on edge .

 

For the most relaxing option, then the other control system is the current control system which is what I use with my hub bikes. The power delivery is just that the amount of power supplied , one has 5 power levels to choose from. The level one power delivering approx. 13% power so a nice gentle acceleration and one can simply switch to another level of power if wanting more oomph from the motor via the controllers delivered power. Speed one doesn't have to worry about as one can simply ride at whatever speed one is happy with.

 

The pedal action is simply a cadence one or a normal turn of the pedals ,

with the mid drive motors one has to push harder on the pedals as the power delivery is torque assist and relies on the riders exertions for power.

The only way to try each type of power delivery system is to try out /ride each type to see which would suit ones needs.

Edited by Nealh

If you have a reasonably large Decathlon store nearby you might want to check it out. I found the Milton Keynes branch was helpful and knowledgeable in choosing my general purpose e-bike (Decathlon 500E), and there was sufficient indoor space to try out different ones during a quiet period. Search womens' electric bikes on their website to see prices and what they stock eg the 920E + Polysport child seat, might suit. Peter

Edited by peterjd

Tbh the only gain with a mid drive is in hilly terrain or proper off road riding,

 

 

Oh Balls. :rolleyes:

...as it'll mostly be used for pottering around town. Terrain is fairly flat...

It's funny how polarised folk are on here. I've 3 e-bikes with 3 different means of propulsion: Torque sensor Bafang M400 mid-drive, RPM sensor TranzX 16GT mid-drive, and my little Fiido folder with rear hub. They're all good for different reasons.

 

For scooting/pottering around town, my own rear hub bike needs by far the least effort - and it's my cheapest e-bike. As a heavier and not very fit rider, for a modest 35Nm motor, it'll still power up 10% hills without a great deal of effort (12% is the most I've tackled on it).

 

There are rides where the other bikes excel, but not for pootling around town.

Some more choices for you.

 

Ribble, are quite an old company(been around for years) mainly specializing in all things Roadie(Road bike stuff)

Again a bit over your proposed budget, but not by much.

 

And hub driven, so should keep the grumbly mid drive haters like ....Ahem... happy.

https://www.ribblecycles.co.uk/ribble-hybrid-al-e-step-through/?childSku=BBALESTH000

https://www.ribblecycles.co.uk/ribble-urban-e/?childSku=BBURBSTP000

Some more choices for you.

 

The Ribble Low Step AL is not really suitable.

The OP wants a child seat, that means she needs a proper low-step step through like the Dutch ride. She wouldn't be able to swing her leg over the rear wheel.

I ride both a Bosch mid drive and a woosh hub drive. My Bosch mid drive is four and a half years old and clocked up nearly 3,000 miles. It is still fine in every way and still feels as good as new. The Bosch Active line plus drive unit does seem to be very good and I think some of the comments above are scaremongering for no good reason. The torque sensor does provide the most natural feel to cycling; the assist comes in without you noticing and you just feel like you have really powerful legs. I still love riding this bike and for recreational riding along trails etc it is wonderful. The downside is that the whole drivetrain is taking the power of the motor so things wear. I changed the chain at 1500 miles and also upgraded the rear deraileur. So, if I love my Bosch mid drive so much why did a buy a hub drive? Well firstly I wanted a folder and, as I not in my prime years, I also wanted a step through option. The hub drive Woosh is surprisingly good for the money. The hub drive with its crank sensor gives a less subtle push when it kicks in so it doesn't feel natural when you are riding. It does provide a very good level of assist and I would say I often go faster with the hub drive than I do with the mid drive although the mid drive has a slightly higher torque rating. I have found the slightly lower powered hub drive gives at least as much assist as the mid drive on very steep hills, very possibly slightly more. Of course if you do take the benefit of the higher level of assist you use battery more quickly. I do seem to get more miles per KW hour from the mid drive system.

 

Probably a Hub drive would be the best solution for the OP based on what they want from it. Cheaper too.

A 750watt ebike is of course illegal in the uk except for on private land with the land owner’s permission. The E-scout weighs 24kg plus battery whereas the Rambletta weighs 17.4kg plus battery . That’s a lot of extra weight. No problem when riding but could be an issue when getting it in and out of wherever it is stored. Also wouldn’t fancy lifting the Scout into the back of the car.

I'd have thought the frame design would prevent the seat from fitting to the seat tube?

are you talking about the clamp for the Hamax child seat that goes on the seat post? If you are, it took me 10 minutes to fit the Hamax seat on the Santana.

are you talking about the clamp for the Hamax child seat that goes on the seat post? If you are, it took me 10 minutes to fit the Hamax seat on the Santana.

I am yes, the ones I've seen normally only fit a round tube, good to see the Hamax can deal with the wires section on your bikes.

I am yes, the ones I've seen normally only fit a round tube, good to see the Hamax can deal with the wires section on your bikes.

wires? they have been channelled years ago. The clamp can deal with slightly wider tubes.

 

santana-seattube.jpg

wires? they have been channelled years ago.

santana-seattube.jpg

Yes that's what I meant, the extra alloy section covering the wires.

Yes that's what I meant, the extra alloy section covering the wires.

The Hamax clamp has long bolts. It can accommodate slightly wider tubes.

  • 4 weeks later...

I am buying two e-bikes, but I am in Australia.

 

But I have tested a few bikes. It seems our ebikes are cheaper here, probably due to our closeness to China, and no import duties.

 

I've read that while mid drives do wear the chain more, that does depend on the type of riding.

 

I've also read that if one doesn't use the gears on a mid bike, and for instance, leave the bike in its 7th or top gear (out of a typical 8 speed derailler gearbox) then doing so will heat up the motor more than using the gears. Making a motor work hard is more likely to wear the motor.

 

I've also read that while hub motors are more simple, they are more prone to overheating. This issue typically happens on a hill climb, where the motor is going flat out for a longer time, and hence it overheats and can stop due to heat protection. In the same circumstance, a mid motor setup with a rider using its gears, will not overheat.

 

Also, a central motor bike is easier to change a tyre/remove a wheel - because there are no electrics required to connect to the hub motor. I've read reports that hub motors that have had their electronics disconnected, can be difficult to properly re-connect. With a mid motor setup, because the motor is in the middle, changing the tyres is just the same as with a normal bike.

 

I have also read that the centre motor gives a more balanced ride, due to the weight being both lower than a hub motor, and also due to the motor being in the middle of the wheelbase.

 

But a mid motor setup is heavier. My data shows it costs an extra one kilogram, in a folding bike configuration bike.

 

For my riding, I would consider a hub motor. But I find a "cadence" setup (where the motor engages when the pedals rotate) as being close to dangerous. While variable power settings lowers the danger, the whole feel is instantaneous and not intuitive. But a hub motor might be OK IMO, if it had torque sensing on the pedals. But so far, only one brand has that combination, and I am yet to trial that bike.

 

Ensure you ride the bike. I thought I found the perfect bike (although it was heavy and I am buying folding bikes) : the he gear (out of a typical 8 speed derailler gearbox) had an 8 speed internal hub gearbox, so the gears could be changed while stationary; it had a central motor; a big battery too. And it weighed the same a sister bike that had a derailler gearbox and hub motor. But the hub motor bike felt powerful. The mid motor version felt very slow. How come? It is certainly not the concept - but somehow, the maker has done a very poor job on the motor, which felt quite marginal ie lacked power).

 

its very important to ride the bike before buying.

Edited by MelbournePark

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