Hi there I have a electric avenue I bought for my son and I seen your post and seem to have made the same mistakes as you lol I got a kt controller and the kt lcd3 and thumb throttle couldn't get them to work then got the kt lcd 5 same outcome and come to the conclusion I think the controller amps was higher than the battery amps so I don't think the battery could run the controller and I couldn't find a kt controller to match amps so I gave up and went back to the original but you seem to have figured it out can you please confirm that the aigend controller you linked works with the kt lcd3 because I googled the compatibility and it says it won't work any help would be appreciated thanks

 

Yes, I got it working with the controller linked in my posts. The power cable connecter is different, so had to cut/ strip the cables and connect them with a waterproof junction box. Works just fine.

Most batteries will be able to deliver 15a continuous , KT's have setting C5 where one can reduce the current delivery by some 50% .

One expects the motor to controller wiring isn't matched correctly , one can't be guaranteed that wire ot wire colour match will work. In all there are 36 Phase to Hall combinations to try out so one occassionally has to try all 36 to see which few of the combo's work.

Edited January 27, 20251 yr by Nealh

Any KT LCD will work with any KT controller , the exception is if the the KT controller is a customer custom model .

As with my post above wire to wire matching isn't guaranteed to work with some hubs soone has to try the wire swapping combo's.

One has to have the throttle enabled in C4 for it to work.

Also one has to have the correct PAS wire sequence wired up and the correct PAS setting C1 set , if the PAS operates with back pedal it isn't fitted correctly.

 

Start with wire to wire colour sequence of controller to motor connected and depress the LCD minus pad to see if walk assist operates . If walk assist works then one has some incorrect settings or wire sequence on both PAS and throttle option wrong.

Connect throttle and test to get it working , then connect PAS and do like wise. A setting may need adjusting as well to enable both to work.

 

Go thru things methodically one at a time , once one peripheral item works then connect and work on the next one to work correctly thus avoiding any conflict or guess work as to which is wrong.

Edited January 27, 20251 yr by Nealh

For testing P4/0 and C4/1 for throttle should be selected , then if one wants to be legal on the road select P4/1 and C4/3 for pedal first activation of throttle.

 

C1 PAS value will be dependent on the PAS type fitted.

Hi thanks for your advice I think I'll try that then I think that's the same amps and I'm sure I can buy the right cable he was gutted when we couldn't get the throttle working it was a wreck when I got it and we have added bits cheap off temu and built it back up I think he appreciates it more having built it than just being bought it out right and I've enjoyed doing it with him and it's virtually done now the throttle would be the icing on the cake

Before one goes to much further try running the hub sensorless if you have L3/0 setting , otherwise test the hub to see if there is a Hall failure.

One needs to test the Blue, Green & Yellow thin Hall wires against the thin Black Gnd wire with a meter, with the bike powered up one should see 5v swiching on each wire as the motor wheel is rotated A/C/W slowly by hand. If one doesn't see any switching voltage or 0v then that Hall is toast and the motor won't run in sensored mode.