I've had a mail back from topbikekit telling me that I can pay their paypal with a link:

topbikekit@outlook.com

But this is an e-mail address. Anyone know how the hell I use a credit or debit card to pay this? I don't have a paypal account.

Why not set up a Paypal account? It's really useful, much quicker than a credit card and probably more secure, plus you can send cash to your friends like me. I bought all my stuff from China and Ebay using Paypal. You also get buyer protection if you get scammed or any other problems.

Turns out I have got a Paypal account after all. Who knew? I didn't, must have opened it years ago, never saw the need for it and forgot all about it.

It's allowed as I'm officially an old git.

Order has been actioned, but here is the reply from TBK

 

'We has received your payment and will help you arrange goods to send out as soon as possible.

BTW, you use T09S controller to fit the 800W RPM328 motor may not have enough power.

If you use it on an uphill, we suggest that you replace motor with RPM: 201

Please be careful not to ride too fast, otherwise the controller may easily burn down due to overload.

Any questions, please feel free to contact us.

Thanks.'

 

I chose the T09s as it's 22A max will be kinder to my battery. As the motor (48v used at 36v) can only use what the controller gives it I assume this somewhat confused advice can be ignored?

I have the 328 rpm in my bike with a 14A controller. The controller doesn't burn. They're probably thinking of fat USA guys who don't pedal.

It seems to come from the usual misunderstanding that an 800w motor 'sucks' that power when it will only produce what it is given.

It's kinda like, I might have the capacity for a large portion of chips but if I'm only given a small portion that's all I can eat

Order has been actioned, but here is the reply from TBK

 

'We has received your payment and will help you arrange goods to send out as soon as possible.

BTW, you use T09S controller to fit the 800W RPM328 motor may not have enough power.

If you use it on an uphill, we suggest that you replace motor with RPM: 201

Please be careful not to ride too fast, otherwise the controller may easily burn down due to overload.

Any questions, please feel free to contact us.

Thanks.'

 

I chose the T09s as it's 22A max will be kinder to my battery. As the motor (48v used at 36v) can only use what the controller gives it I assume this somewhat confused advice can be ignored?

I reckon they are worried that you are going to destroy the motor they supply. They would be happier if you use a lower RPM motor which has better yield at slow climbing speed.

Order's been dispatched - the big wait is on.

Went out on the bent last night, for the first time used setting 5/9 and got up a serious climb I'd not tackled before. But, my God, the Dillinger makes some odd noises, it really does not like hills.

Just paid DHL tax bill of 68.29. After working for 55years I really do resent paying more bloody tax ! *^&%&$)(*$%*

Order was scheduled for the 23rd, just been messaged to say it will be here today. 6 days from, I assume, Hong Kong via DHL.

Well that's OK:D

Kit's arrived, all present and correct.

Now need to find a 36hole 26 inch rim. Anyone got any recommendations?

I'll be asking for wheel building helplater, such as how the hell do I work out the offset and then different spoke lengths?

Also looking for an 8 speed cassette, going to try for one with a bit wider range than the freewheel that's on the bike. Ratio's are a bit close for me.

Confused already.

Tyre is labelled 35-559 26 x 1.35. Existing rim is unmarked.

So what double wall rim do I need?

There's a range here:-

Rims - 26' - 559 | Rims & Tape | Wheels | SJS Cycles

If it helps, Cytronex fit Ryde Andra 30 (black) or Halo White Line Classic (silver) to their front hub kits. Just make sure you get a 36 hole one!

For wheelbuilding and spoke calculations, have a look at the videos at:-

IHome page (ebikes.ca)

The spoke calculator is specifically for hub motors and looks good. You will have to follow the video tutorial and take measurements from your hub and rim. I've been having a practice on it over the last few days and find it quite fascinating. I did discover though, that the preloaded dimensions for the MUXUS XF07 are wrong against the MUXUS drawing! You'll be fine entering your own numbers, but as we used to say, "measure twice, cut once!"

When you've got your spoke lengths, there are several suppliers out there. This one looks good:-

Spoke information E-Bike & Bicycle - https://www.alexwarwick.co.uk/

General consenus seems to be that Sapim Strong 13g/14g butted are the ones to use. Available in silver or black. I wouldn't bother with the specific e-bike spokes listed there. They look a bit of an overkill for small hub motors.

I always use the cheapest rims. They're always nice and strong and work pretty well. Avoid ones with eyelets because the nipples jam in them and go at the wrong angle. Ryans for spokes:

https://www.spokesfromryan.com/

 

Sheldon Brown's wheelbuilding guide is what I used to learn how to do it. It's very clear and logical.

 

You don't know the offset until you put the built wheel in the frame, but a Q128c needs a fair amount, depending on whether you have any frame offset. I would start by making the nipples level with the end of the thread on the cassette side and three threads short on the other side, then tighten eevenly until you just take up the tension in all the spokes, then see how it looks. After that, just tension the spokes on the side it needs to go to to be central until it's in the centre, then bring up to full tension. If they come to full tension and the rim still needs tio go further, you have to go round tightening on one side and loosening on the other.

A 19/21 mm rim is what you need and obviously a 36h one.

 

I use Sapim strongs 14g on all my wheel builds and agree with others ,Ryansforspokes are very efficient.

 

https://ebikes.ca/tools/spoke-calc.html

 

https://www.wheelpro.co.uk/spokecalc/

For a lacing guide I find these two utubes verrrry goooood.

 

Aussie

 

India.

jeez! Been searching for about 3 hours. Cannot find a 26" 36 H black double wall rim of 19-21mm width with no eyelets.

Are the eyelets a deal breaker?

I have, so far, only looked at rims under £40

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/191682444691?hash=item2ca129fd93:g:2tEAAOSwu4BV6bPL

 

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/394522725185?hash=item5bdb630b41:g:M2QAAOSwb~FkGIBj

Edited August 22, 20232 yr by Nealh

Seems prices have risen on 26" stuff nowadays.

jeez! Been searching for about 3 hours. Cannot find a 26" 36 H black double wall rim of 19-21mm width with no eyelets.

Are the eyelets a deal breaker?

I have, so far, only looked at rims under £40

Eyelets don't matter so much if you use 14g spokes and nipples, which I'd recommend anyway.

 

Can't you save some money by using your present rim?

Thanks Neal, I searched bankrupt bike parts but missed that one. Just ordered it.

Thought of using the existing rim but have a notion to sell the wheel/motor.

While I'm waiting for the rim (thanks for the help chaps) I'm looking at the gearing.

Currently the rear cluster is a 14-28 freewheel. I find the ratios a bit close, it's difficult to feel when it has changed so often end up going two. On a bent, it seems you have to spin more on hill climbing. Front to back ratios seem OK ish on this point but top end is a bit lacking, so looking to increase the ratio here.

8 speed cassettes seem to have a greater variety available. Not sure whether to go 11-30 or 11-32, think 11-34 may be too far. Derailleur is a long cage so should handle the extra.

Can get a Shimano 11-32 in black for around £16, but will the difference between current 28t and new 32t be too much? If so I'll go 11-30 in silver.

Gearing's such a personal thing so difficult to say, but what's the feel?

8 speed? That depends on how many gears your shifters are indexed for (or whether they do friction mode) - your cassette is 7 speed so tell us more.

Your derailleur spec will say something like Max. teeth large sprocket 36, Total Capacity 45. Subtract the range of your chainrings (52-28=24?) and that leaves 21 for the cassette, so in that case whatever you can find between 11-32 and 15-36 would be OK, in however many speeds your shifter can handle.

Obviously check the derailleur for wear and damage first.

Thanks - not sure I understand the maths, however, I have bar end shifters and the rear one's indexed for 8 (deraileur is currently restricted to 7).

Main aim is to increase the 'space' between ratios so I can feel the difference so it's probably going to be the11-32.

Plan is to use my Ezee rear rack battery which fits on a top hat din rail. So, easy enough. However the Velotechnic rack is only 130mm wide whilst the battery is 150mm. Could just mount it on top but this would stop me being able to hook panniers over the top bar. Was thinking of buying a double decker rack and butchering it (with finesse!) to fit on top of the existing rack. I've found one on fleabay for £60 that would do the job but, the skinflint part of me finds paying that much to be butchered offensive. Also, because of the length, it would overhang the existing rack, and we all know how awkward that can look.

So trying to think my way round/through this one.

Considered batteries in panniers. Not great and robs me of shopping/picnic carrying space.

Any thoughts?

The rim has arrived. I've watched the Grin wheel building and hub measuring video's and will be measuring stuff tommorrow. I read the Sheldon Brown stuff too, but I couldn't retain it. I function better with visuals.

 

The motor had this sticker on it:

I've removed it and this was underneath:

So an AKM motor rebranded as Topbikekit.