Nice stand. That's the way to do it. No need to spend loads of money. I don't like the set-square though - it makes it look like you took too much care to get it right.

Thought I was dead clever ordering tyre,tube, rim tape and cassette all from one supplier so avoiding delivery charges - forgot the bloody disc didn't I.

Wheel's now finished.

Here's a picture of it alongside the one that's come out:

Out of curiosity I weighed them both. The DD wheel is 8Kg+, the geared hub wheel is 5Kg.

 

Not being able to upend the bent, I made a scratch workstand. It did mean that I was fighting gravity putting the wheel in. There was some filing needed (previous motor was not fully seated)so, with all the fiddling, it took about an hour to get it in first time. 'Twas then I found the caliper fould the motor by about 2mm:mad:. An hour round trip to the lbs got me a 180mm disc and adaptor. Wewnt in fine second time around with one washer inside the frame to give disc alignment.

Wiring next - pictures will follow.

Here's the bike on the stand in lash up mode:

 

The observant may spot that I've used 'girly' Wago 221 connectors - they're only temporary - honest.

So far it's working on throttle but not pas. Because I have a KT-V12L sensor the c1 needs to be set to 07. Currently struggling to follow the instructions, is there an easy hack/fix for the lcd3 ?

All that spaghetti is making me feel hungry.

KT-V12L PAS!!??? You guys and your sado-massichism. If only you posted a complete shopping list, I might have seen it. Oh well, eventually someone will be able to get one working and tell the rest how to do it - hopefully you. Good luck to you and all who sail in you.

Oh crap! Ok, I'll give it a go and let you know. Unfortunately it was the only one that looked like it was going to fit.

I still have the previous Dillinger one with two part disc - perhaps it'll end up getting adapted.

All that spaghetti is making me feel hungry.

Well it's a lash up just to prove wiring and lengths/positioning. I've had to extend pas wires (not looking good is it?) and I'll have to extend contol button wires.

Well it's a lash up just to prove wiring and lengths/positioning. I've had to extend pas wires (not looking good is it?) and I'll have to extend contol button wires.

It's nothing that can't be fixed with a few cable ties.

Spiral wrap man meself, bit kinder on the cables.

Either I'm a genius or they've changed something. Set C1 to 07 and away ya go, pas working - I thank you !

 

However, on the stand, the motor does seem to be giving me 25mph max, no way of verifying this, it's just what the display is saying. Wheel size is set to 26". Anyone know how to change this in lcd3?

 

I have hydraulic brake sensors that I'm trying to get working. There are two into one plug, I only want one. If I cut one out I assume it should be OK just leaving that one open circuit? Stubby shimano levers are making life awkward but I'll get there.

The lcd3 is easy peasy to sort out, press+/- for a few secs to enter basic screen , the wheel size and max speed can be set in this first phase of settings along with English or foreign readouts. . You only get 5 secs to make changes before having to start all over agn to eente settings.

Thank Neal. I found the maximum speed was set to 72Kph. It's wierd though, setting it to 25Kph registered as around 12Mph on full throttle. Anyway, I've now got it giving 16-17Mph full throttle, on the stand.

I'll need to find maximum current later.

Have now extended pas and contol button wiring and am a fair way into sorting out all the spaggetti.

I have an enclosure for the controller and extra wiring but I'm going to need to make some mounting brackets.

For now - rugby calls

Thank Neal. I found the maximum speed was set to 72Kph. It's wierd though, setting it to 25Kph registered as around 12Mph on full throttle. Anyway, I've now got it giving 16-17Mph full throttle, on the stand.

I'll need to find maximum current later.

Have now extended pas and contol button wiring and am a fair way into sorting out all the spaggetti.

I have an enclosure for the controller and extra wiring but I'm going to need to make some mounting brackets.

For now - rugby calls

I didn't know you liked Rugby. I'm playing a match today. See if you can guess what position I play.

 

Are those speeds with a full battery? If not, what voltage?

Water carrier?

I'm watching it not playing, it's safer !

Round about 38v.

Water carrier?

I'm watching it not playing, it's safer !

Round about 38v.

The ball.

201 rpm = 15 mph in a 26" wheel, so at 38v, it should go 38/36 x 15 = 15.83 mph. You should check the speed display against phone GPS when you get it going. Maybe it's actually a 220 rpm motor. We need to find out.

It's a 328 rpm 48v being run at 36v.

I'm not too worried about the precise speed, so long as it's near enough not to be bleedin obvious and the display doesn't say something stoopid if I do get pulled and they try it on the stand.

Got the hydraulic brake switch working using both magnets on one switch.

Thank Neal. I found the maximum speed was set to 72Kph. It's wierd though, setting it to 25Kph registered as around 12Mph on full throttle. Anyway, I've now got it giving 16-17Mph full throttle, on the stand.

I'll need to find maximum current later.

Have now extended pas and contol button wiring and am a fair way into sorting out all the spaggetti.

I have an enclosure for the controller and extra wiring but I'm going to need to make some mounting brackets.

For now - rugby calls

 

The P1 might not be accurate if the gps speed doesn't match the display speed , it is very easy to adjust the P1 UP/DOWN to get is accurate then there is no guessing.

The P1 might not be accurate if the gps speed doesn't match the display speed , it is very easy to adjust the P1 UP/DOWN to get is accurate then there is no guessing.

Except if the magnet count figure just won't save, I've got another thread running about this issue, I can't get the controller to save anything below 20, the magnet count on DD motor is 18, so no need to do the sum with gearing.

Except if the magnet count figure just won't save, I've got another thread running about this issue, I can't get the controller to save anything below 20, the magnet count on DD motor is 18, so no need to do the sum with gearing.

 

Ben isn't using a dd hub so the count will save if done correctly.

 

P1 isn't just about motor magnet count it also has use the motor reduction rate.

Ben isn't using a dd hub so the count will save if done correctly.

 

P1 isn't just about motor magnet count it also has use the motor reduction rate.

I know, but a DD motor has no reduction ratio, it's 1:1.

Finally got the bike ready for a shakedown run.

The box for the controller is physically rather larger than I hoped, yet was quite tight to get everything in - hence the loop of cable strapped to the frame. About three and a half miles of spiral wrap later:

Battery is from my Ezee kit thats on the Carrera, it's mounted on a strip of din rail bolted to the rack.

Motor is well seated into the dropouts with tab washers, no torque bracket as yet.

Haven't been able to get the tyre to seat concentricly, tried three times now, letting the tyre down and trying to manipulate the walls into place. But it's still wobbly, have to see how it feels.

Wiring for pas and control buttons had to be extended, throttle was long enough.

Now I need to get round to cutting the grass !

 

Don't know about the P settings, motor magnet count - what's that ? I'll see what the first ride gives me.

Motor magnet count is 16 and motor reduction ( I think) is 10.5 or 10.667 so gives P1 as 168/170.

P1 is criucial for motor performance, I swapped out a Bafang cst & a AKM128C to see which I preferred , both P1's were widely differrent . Forgetting to change the P1 , I couldn't reason why my Q128 cut out at 10mph. Reason beng P1 was set too low as was on the Bafang setting.

Thanks Nealh.

The motor is a 328rpm 128H cst. They give this a gear ratio of 8.1, so is this the figure I multiply with 16 to get P1?

I get this to be 129/130.

I took the bike out to Pembrey Park for a noodle round empty car parks.

The loss of weight and motor diameter has made a huge difference to handling, especially at low speed. The motor is quiet and loads less vibration than the Dillinger.

P1 has been set to 130 and speed registration seems to be working correctly, at least in comparison to my wifes bike - questionable accuracy but near enough for now. Wattage in level 1 was in the region of 60-100watts. On level 5 bike went smoothly to 15.5mph then wattage backed off from (I spotted a max wattage of around 650). I will look to increase the cut off speed a smidge and look at maximum current.

Hydraulic brake switch is currently held in place by some pretty effective double sided tape, magnet by blutack and cable tie temporarily. Positions prooved now need to find best permanent fix.

 

Thanks to all who have helped throughout this conversion. As well as learming to ride a totally different bike form, I've built my first wheel and pushed my garden shed engineering abilities a bit further. I maybe 70 but I'm not retiring yet.

130 should be ok if 8.1 is the ratio, one can never be sure what the correct ratio is when listed.

 

AliExp simply lists 10.5 for both rpm's.

Edited September 12, 20232 yr by Nealh