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Converting from Swytch to standard equipment

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“You thought the connectors for your previous controller were the same as KT ones because they fit” was tooo subtle. Now I know it translates to “Don’t buy a controller with moulded connectors”, I have learnt and absorbed!
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I think I’m there!

So a good choice for swytch people moving onto a KT controller, would be these controllers plus a display (attached) - both readily available on eBay.

IMG_0615.thumb.jpeg.b404d6f5e629fcaa21dcb9ec96b9221f.jpeg

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Yes, they hang well together, but you want an ebike control system that works well, not just hangs around in a bag. I always judge my ebike parts by how well they work and last, not by how nice they look.

I can see in Cisco-Man and NealH the same tinkerer's spirit and ability but would the OP (rig the jig) be looking for the same flexibility?

Edited by Woosh

  • Author

I can see in Cisco-Man and NealH the same tinkerer's spirit and ability but would the OP (rig the jig) be looking for the same flexibility?

No I'm not, I'm looking for a good quality solution that works, that won't stress me too much to set up. If necessary I can solder, but I hope I don't have to. Rig the jig

It might work and it might not. All we know is that every time someone can't get the PAS to work, it's a 12 magnet one. They then buy an 8 or 10 magnet one and it works. I've had 12 magnet ones work OK, and on one bike (Freego)with OEM controller, the guy broke his pedal sensor., which was a large 8 (?) magnet one. The only one I could find in that size had 12 magnets. I couldn't make it work, then I took out every other magnet to convert it to 6 magnets, and it worked perfectly.

Ebay wins out again. They do a nice eight-magnet KT PAS for £17.

IMG_0616.thumb.jpeg.b763a2671a8e7987aed4f139b969a1b9.jpeg

No I'm not, I'm looking for a good quality solution that works, that won't stress me too much to set up. If necessary I can solder, but I hope I don't have to. Rig the jig

you can replace the battery with one that has more capacity like a 36V 15AH or 20AH and keep the rest like they are. It's an easy 15 minute job. Soldering is not required.

  • Author

you can replace the battery with one that has more capacity like a 36V 15AH or 20AH and keep the rest like they are. It's an easy 15 minute job. Soldering is not required.

Thanks for quick reply , would you have a link to those items on Ebay just the controller and display. Thanks Rig the jig.

I think I’m there!

So a good choice for swytch people moving onto a KT controller, would be these controllers plus a display (attached) - both readily available on eBay.

That's what I'd get. The motor would be OK with 17A, but the Swytch battery might not because it's very small. In that case, there should be the possibility to turn the current down a bit in the settings (C5). If not, the next option is to file a groove in the shunt, and if you don't want to do that, you can just use up to level 4 and no throttle, assuming you have it set to "torque simulation" mode. If you use your own battery, then make sure it can handle 17A.

  • Author

Ebay wins out again. They do a nice eight-magnet KT PAS for £17.

Hi Cisco-man I'm just learning to use this site, would you have a link to the Ebay site with the 36V KT controller and display suitable for the swytch conversion. Thanks, Rig the jig.

Edited by rig the jig

Hi Rig the Jig. I’m pretty sure this is a winning set of parts, but I’ve just pulled them off the web quickly this afternoon. i normally would spend an hour or two checking the detail to be sure. For instance, KT do various displays - I think I’ve read that the LCD5 is the best choice, but I’d normally research tha before buying.
  • Author

Hi Rig the Jig. I’m pretty sure this is a winning set of parts, but I’ve just pulled them off the web quickly this afternoon. i normally would spend an hour or two checking the detail to be sure. For instance, KT do various displays - I think I’ve read that the LCD5 is the best choice, but I’d normally research tha before buying.

My problem is I don't know these parts or what type of connections I need , and I cant see what type of connections are on the controllers.

My problem is I don't know these parts or what type of connections I need , and I cant see what type of connections are on the controllers.

tell us what you don't like in the old system. We'll tell you what you need to spend. Don't just follow the advice because it's given to you by knowledgeable members. It is easy for them to cobble together parts and they don't even need to read the manuals but you will have to look after the kit yourself.

tell us what you don't like in the old system. We'll tell you what you need to spend. Don't just follow the advice because it's given to you by knowledgeable members. It is easy for them to cobble together parts and they don't even need to read the manuals but you will have to look after the kit yourself.

Fully support what Whoosh is saying. I had mentally made note that you announced yourself in your first post as a techy. There is no easy path here - every step will need testing and some fettling e.g. this KT controller isn’t going to fit in your existing swytch holder.

Any of the KT sinewave controllers and displays(lcd) will work, whether 6 or 9 mosfet, all that matters is one makes sure it has the 9 pin julet connection.

For PAS simply stick to an 8 or 10 pole disc.

Amazon are doing a kit which has the KT 17A controller, LCD5 display, and an 8 magnet PAS for a very reasonable price of just over £40.

 

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Vbestlife-Electric-Controller-Brushless-Replacement/dp/B09LCKLSH2

 

It's on Amazon marketplace, not sold by Amazon themselves. I suspect it'll arrive from China. There may be extra charges.

 

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Edited by guerney

  • Author

That's brilliant thanks so much for the info, I'm going to order them tomorrow.

It's on Amazon marketplace, not sold by Amazon themselves. I suspect it'll arrive from China. There may be extra charges.

 

 

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The Mk 1 kit had a Hall sensored wheel but after the first controller failed I was advised to use a work-around cable on the replacement controller which bypassed the Hall sensors. The (12A) replacement controller has worked OK for several years now, and gives the modest assistance which I want. P.

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