Hey guys, I've recently purchased myself a CYC X1 PRO gen 4 for my Boardman MTR 9, while I'm waiting for the thing to ship I need to find myself a decent battery, I've looked around a bit and I've realised that it's difficult to find high power shark batteries....

 

Essentially I need a "normal sized" shark battery (hailong/reention dp style) such that the height does not exceed ~130mm

 

• I also need it to be fitted with a BMS that can deliver 50A continuous @ 52V (or any voltage >= 52V that can deliver >= 2500W continuous)
  
• The cells as such need to be (per cell) able to deliver at least 20A continuous: e.g., Molicell P42A/P45B/P28A , Sony VTC6....
  
• The battery needs to be built with the UK weather in mind! i.e., SOME LEVEL OF WATER RESISTANCE
  
• Pack must use pure nickel strips!
  

Ideally (52V) it should be an 18650 14s5p, or 21700 14s4p pack

 

There are already batteries within my scope that satisfy these requirements, although I want to assess all my options first before making any commitments, provided some of these options aren't perfect.

 

Thanks

https://reddragonebikes.co.uk/product-category/high-grade-ebike-batteries/

It is a full sus with not straight downtube. This will be interesting to watch. Please post some pictures after conversion.

Dont wait till post conversion to start posting those pics.. Personally i would appreciate lots of on the go pics of the plan and build. Thanks in advance he says hopefully..

Dont wait till post conversion to start posting those pics.. Personally i would appreciate lots of on the go pics of the plan and build. Thanks in advance he says hopefully..

 

Absolutely! Boardman MTR 9 is a beautiful bike, but how Raydj is planning to put battery there is a mystery to me

 

 

But I wish him good luck as I really want to know for how long derailer will survive this motor.

Does [mention=11305]soundwave[/mention] have a plan? Other than a backpack i can only think of splitting the battery mass between front and rear since its gonna have some significant mass and in only one off centre spot will have an impact on ride quality i would think. but im 'joe no clue' postulating after a few beers..

[mention=41431]raydj[/mention] on Reddit 3 months ago.

 

 

 

 

 

https://www.reddit.com/media?url=https%3A%2F%2Fi.redd.it%2Fboardman-full-sus-v0-epvgfj2hhxta1.jpg%3Fs%3D4a63dc354c398ca1d9f2e6ff12ee074d6f62d24b

 

https://www.reddit.com/media?url=https%3A%2F%2Fpreview.redd.it%2Fwhat-battery-setup-can-i-go-for-v0-hoagyzoie9vb1.jpg%3Fwidth%3D640%26crop%3Dsmart%26auto%3Dwebp%26s%3Dcfab4b4d7f15c2f7ea39852191cefa3b4017c278

Edited January 22, 20242 yr by guerney

[mention=41431]raydj[/mention] on Reddit 3 months ago.

 

 

 

 

 

https://www.reddit.com/media?url=https%3A%2F%2Fi.redd.it%2Fboardman-full-sus-v0-epvgfj2hhxta1.jpg%3Fs%3D4a63dc354c398ca1d9f2e6ff12ee074d6f62d24b

 

https://www.reddit.com/media?url=https%3A%2F%2Fpreview.redd.it%2Fwhat-battery-setup-can-i-go-for-v0-hoagyzoie9vb1.jpg%3Fwidth%3D640%26crop%3Dsmart%26auto%3Dwebp%26s%3Dcfab4b4d7f15c2f7ea39852191cefa3b4017c278

 

Went all the way from being pretty dead set on the photon then decided to get a cyc x1 pro lmao.

 

Does [mention=11305]soundwave[/mention] have a plan? Other than a backpack i can only think of splitting the battery mass between front and rear since its gonna have some significant mass and in only one off centre spot will have an impact on ride quality i would think. but im 'joe no clue' postulating after a few beers..

 

I'm planning on mounting the battery under the downtube using a hose clamp mounting bracket, I'll also use heavy duty mounting straps to keep the battery on while riding, I'm planning on making a battery protection plate out of kydex which will directly attach directly to the battery.

 

Below is a pretty basic plan I made

 

As you can see there's enough clearance for the front suspension. I never ride hard enough for the front suspension to bottom out anyways, despite the bike I don't actually ride trails that'd make the most out of this bike lol, I got a good deal on the bike a few months back and eventually decided that I'd convert it into an ebike.

https://reddragonebikes.co.uk/product-category/high-grade-ebike-batteries/

Do you run this company? There's not much information on the batteries being sold other than 40A BMS (I need at least a 50A BMS and cells to match), also no mention of the exact cells being used, I will assume that given it's a 21700 cell they use LG M50 cells which in 14s4p configuration is rated for 40A continuous, so literally no headroom. ]

 

If a customized battery can be built with a better BMS and cells designed for high discharge applications such as the Molicel P42A, then I'd be interested

Torque-E-Cycles battery repair can bus specialists uk 01803 325945

 

 

see if they can custom build you what you want

For 50a continuous you will want copper interconnectors on the series not nickel.

Hey guys, I've recently purchased myself a CYC X1 PRO gen 4 for my Boardman MTR 9, while I'm waiting for the thing to ship I need to find myself a decent battery, I've looked around a bit and I've realised that it's difficult to find high power shark batteries....

 

Essentially I need a "normal sized" shark battery (hailong/reention dp style) such that the height does not exceed ~130mm

 

• I also need it to be fitted with a BMS that can deliver 50A continuous @ 52V (or any voltage >= 52V that can deliver >= 2500W continuous)
  
• The cells as such need to be (per cell) able to deliver at least 20A continuous: e.g., Molicell P42A/P45B/P28A , Sony VTC6....
  
• The battery needs to be built with the UK weather in mind! i.e., SOME LEVEL OF WATER RESISTANCE
  
• Pack must use pure nickel strips!
  

Ideally (52V) it should be an 18650 14s5p, or 21700 14s4p pack

 

There are already batteries within my scope that satisfy these requirements, although I want to assess all my options first before making any commitments, provided some of these options aren't perfect.

 

Thanks

 

 

100% UK ILLEGAL

100% UK ILLEGAL

Thanks for your valuable input

For 50a continuous you will want copper interconnectors on the series not nickel.

Makes sense, I'm just trying to be wary of sellers who use "nickel plated" strips

Went all the way from being pretty dead set on the photon then decided to get a cyc x1 pro lmao.

 

 

 

I'm planning on mounting the battery under the downtube using a hose clamp mounting bracket, I'll also use heavy duty mounting straps to keep the battery on while riding, I'm planning on making a battery protection plate out of kydex which will directly attach directly to the battery.

 

Below is a pretty basic plan I made

[ATTACH type=full" alt="56013]56013[/ATTACH]

 

As you can see there's enough clearance for the front suspension. I never ride hard enough for the front suspension to bottom out anyways, despite the bike I don't actually ride trails that'd make the most out of this bike lol, I got a good deal on the bike a few months back and eventually decided that I'd convert it into an ebike.

I don't like to be negative, but I think the project is a non-starter. If you want an electric bike for riding only on the road, get yourself a cheap used disc brake MTB for about £100 - £150 and either sell that Boardman or keep it for what it's designed for.

 

If you run with it, the bike itself is more of a liability than an advantage. Everything about it is working against you. There's insufficient clearance to mount the battery under the frame unless you lock the forks. The gearing won't last 5 minutes with that motor, and even if it did, it's going to be much too low for riding on the road. Finally, that motor is far from ideal for riding on the road.

 

If you really want an electric bike for riding on the road, figure out the points that would make it ideal, then choose a donor and motor system that give you what you want.

I don't like to be negative, but I think the project is a non-starter. If you want an electric bike for riding only on the road, get yourself a cheap used disc brake MTB for about £100 - £150 and either sell that Boardman or keep it for what it's designed for.

 

If you run with it, the bike itself is more of a liability than an advantage. Everything about it is working against you. There's insufficient clearance to mount the battery under the frame unless you lock the forks. The gearing won't last 5 minutes with that motor, and even if it did, it's going to be much too low for riding on the road. Finally, that motor is far from ideal for riding on the road.

 

If you really want an electric bike for riding on the road, figure out the points that would make it ideal, then choose a donor and motor system that give you what you want.

There's enough clearance, I already checked with extra headroom given, I regularly ride and my forks never compress to the level shown in a picture above.

 

I appreciate your concern but I intend to see this through, with e.g., a bafang kit or something I would still end up spending a similar amount on a quality battery + lekkie chainrings etc, and with the CYC I'm spending quite a bit more on the motor kit itself but it's a one time purchase and I don't need to think about upgrades down the line. I realistically don't intend to run it at 2.5kW constantly. Worst case if I see that this bike is causing me issues I'll fit it onto my older merida big nine mtb and swap to a strong 7 speed groupset etc. Both bikes have the same size chainrings and both have BSA bottom brackets.

 

I'm curious, what kind of frame would you choose for the CYC X1 PRO (I already bought the kit btw)?

The CYC motor is not so good for a bike you want to use on the road, especially with your low gearing. It looks like you only have room for a small chainring, so it'll be hopelessly under-geared. It'll be a nightmare of never being in the right gear. Your gearing might be fine for lazy unassisted pedalling, which is about 60w through the crank, but when you try to put 5kw through them, you'll only want to use top gear, which will probably strip before you get to the end of your road. If you want to go fast on the road, get a direct drive hub-motor, but don't put it in your Boardman because it will render your rear suspension useless too.

 

Another thing. I built a bike with a 52v BBSHD running at 30A. When you opened the throttle, you could feel the whole frame twisting under the motor's torque. You want to run with 50A?

Aside from the legality aspects and muddying the waters for we law abiding riders, why do you feel the need to have so much power? It really does not have any advantages over a good legal mtb or road bike.

The CYC motor is not so good for a bike you want to use on the road, especially with your low gearing. It looks like you only have room for a small chainring, so it'll be hopelessly under-geared. It'll be a nightmare of never being in the right gear. Your gearing might be fine for lazy unassisted pedalling, which is about 60w through the crank, but when you try to put 5kw through them, you'll only want to use top gear, which will probably strip before you get to the end of your road. If you want to go fast on the road, get a direct drive hub-motor, but don't put it in your Boardman because it will render your rear suspension useless too.

 

Another thing. I built a bike with a 52v BBSHD running at 30A. When you opened the throttle, you could feel the whole frame twisting under the motor's torque. You want to run with 50A?

 

Look let me clear something up, I want to buy a battery once, not twice, I'd rather get a battery with high quality cells and a decent BMS once than save a miniscule amount on a less capable battery. I intend to comfortably ride the bike in a safe manner, yes maybe I could've spent less money on a bafang or something and fitted it to my other bike (which would problematic due to chainline problems with that bike as well), but I've already spent enough time mulling over it such that I feel it's worth it.

 

Even if it means I end up riding this bike at 500W peak should it be comfortable and safe then so be it, the x1 pro doesn't weigh much more than a bbshd and it fits on any bike I want with no chainline issues. My target speed is around 20-25MPh which the gearing on this bike will do just fine, I don't care about speed. Yes I could've opted for say the x1 stealth instead, rated at 1.5kW, but it's an outrunner motor (worse cooling) and isn't much less.

 

I'm not even going to install a throttle, I'm fully relying on the torque sensing.

 

I got a good deal on this bike, purchased it for just over a third of its brand new price in great condition, and I eventually decided I wanted to make it an ebike. So it's what I'm going to do. I want an overbuilt motor kit because why not, end of, all I want to know is where I can get a reliable battery in the UK but I'll just stick to EM3EV once they restock next month.

 

- Also note the part where I said I can easily switch this kit onto another bike, down the line once I may end up doing this, but for the next 2 years I'm not going to have enough space to have 2 bikes so this is an all in one for me, I'm currently away from home for my studies.

 

Aside from the legality aspects and muddying the waters for we law abiding riders, why do you feel the need to have so much power? It really does not have any advantages over a good legal mtb or road bike.

 

Because why not, I'm not spending much more than I would've with an e.g., photon, which was my initial plan, anyways read the above, I don't intend to ride this bike like those idiots on surrons speeding on shared pavements endangering others, I'm just wasting my money because I've got nothing better to do

Edited January 22, 20242 yr by raydj

I'm just wasting my money because I've got nothing better to do

If you ride within the same actual power range as top end Bosch etc then there is no need for the battery spec you asked about. If you run at 48V, a large standard off the shelf generic battery is likely to be fine e.g. 21700 4S 17.5 or 19.2Ah with Samsung or Panadonic cells. PSPPOWER would have such a thing. [mention=3847]saneagle[/mention] has mentioned a 48V supplier a few times recently.

 

You could get away with a smaller and lighter battery if top notch cells are used, which would mount more easily and make a lighter bike so nicer ride.

 

50A continuous does not match the responsible riding you describe, and you will stand out like a sore thumb to any observant enforcer, and will not have a leg to stand on in the event of confiscation.

If you ride within the same actual power range as top end Bosch etc then there is no need for the battery spec you asked about. If you run at 48V, a large standard off the shelf generic battery is likely to be fine e.g. 21700 4S 17.5 or 19.2Ah with Samsung or Panadonic cells. PSPPOWER would have such a thing. [mention=3847]saneagle[/mention] has mentioned a 48V supplier a few times recently.

 

You could get away with a smaller and lighter battery if top notch cells are used, which would mount more easily and make a lighter bike so nicer ride.

 

50A continuous does not match the responsible riding you describe, and you will stand out like a sore thumb to any observant enforcer, and will not have a leg to stand on in the event of confiscation.

 

Pspower? Yeah no I'm not trying to commit arson.

Also how on earth is a battery in a regular old hailong/reention case pack going to stick out as a sore thumb where most other packs on the market look precisely the same? I'm not going to write in big block letters "52V 50A battery" on the side. You literally wouldn't be able to tell unless you diassemble the battery and check what parts are in there.

 

Anyways, I'll do more of my own research regarding what my best choice is when it comes to batteries, if someone buys a fast car, it doesn't imply they're going to drive irresponsibly/unsafely, same analogy applies here.

 

Bye

https://www.electroncycles.co.uk/product/52v-17-5ah-smaller-cased-semi-high-power-long-range-50a-2100w-down-tube-4a-charger/

Considering the Budget and quality of components wouldnt it be worthwhile spending an extra couple of hundred getting it road tested as an emoped/m-bike?? or at least looking into.. it wouldnt be plod stopping and taking the bike that would keep me up at night but the risk of injuring a 3rd party with an ambulance chasing law firm behind them..

Considering the Budget and quality of components wouldnt it be worthwhile spending an extra couple of hundred getting it road tested as an emoped/m-bike?? or at least looking into.

 

Indeed, and then there would be little risk of loosing your driving license if caught riding an illegal electric bike.