Giant sync drive front hub motor, 36v 10.5ah battery from Yosepower..

OK, 15A is about as high as you can safely go, so get the PSWPower one. It would be best to get the type with block connectors, not the moulded waterproof ones because you might need to re-arrange the motor connections, which is impossible with the moulded type.

OK, 15A is about as high as you can safely go, so get the PSWPower one. It would be best to get the type with block connectors, not the moulded waterproof ones because you might need to re-arrange the motor connections, which is impossible with the moulded type.

Thanks. I'm having a lot of trouble with that website, it's hard to tell what I'm actually selecting. Reminds me of AliExpress, where you think you've ordered a pair of shoes, but it turns out you've only bought the laces...

Yes it's weird, they really should fix that website. If you are having difficulty adding stuff to your shopping cart: deselect everything, select UK delivery, then select your kit options, and "China" for "Ships from".

Edited May 14, 2025May 14 by guerney

Thanks. I'm having a lot of trouble with that website, it's hard to tell what I'm actually selecting. Reminds me of AliExpress, where you think you've ordered a pair of shoes, but it turns out you've only bought the laces...

They show 3 pictures of controllers, but no description of which one they are... Do you suppose the LCD comes with a cable? And what is the optional cable I can order? Very confusing, but good cheap price! Any help gratefully received!

They show 3 pictures of controllers, but no description of which one they are... Do you suppose the LCD comes with a cable? And what is the optional cable I can order? Very confusing, but good cheap price! Any help gratefully received!

https://www.pswpower.com/products/24v-36v-250w-36v-48v-500w-36v-48v-1000w1500w-brushless-dc-torque-simulation-square-ebike-electric-bicycle-hub-motor-controller-with-right-output-326

Select the first option, which says 24v/36v 15A, then select all the other stuff to go with it.

If the above doesn't work, you can always get one from Topbikekit. Add the LCD, throttle 8PAS and a speed sensor if you don't already have one.

https://topbikekit.com/t06s-24v36v36v48v250w-15a-kt-sine-wave-brushless-controller-for-ebike-p-443.html

They show 3 pictures of controllers, but no description of which one they are...

 

This is how it looks on PC, I don't know how t looks on Android, iDevice etc... they've got controller descriptions in the "Alt" tag of the images, which only appear when you hover over them with your mouse pointer, and what you've selected for "SKU" only appears above after you've selected an image.

 

This is what I ended up ordering, after moving to a desktop and much agro.

KT kunteng Electric Bicycle Motor ebike Controller 24V 36V 48V 250W 500W 1000W Brushless DC Sine Wave sensor Controller

My hub motor has totally different connectors for phases and hall sensors, so I guess I'll need to do more cutting and soldering, unless there's some sort of nifty breakout cable available...

Thanks for all the help/advice, and hope I haven't bought the wrong kit!

I tried to buy a battery using PSW's website, and managed to navigate to the checkout where there was a message to the effect that "we cannot ship to the UK". I fired off a disgruntled email asking if that is the case, why do you list it in UK pounds?. I got a very quick and polite reply with a PayPal invoice which included a small extra shipping cost. It was about £20 less than their eBay listing and I didn't have to pay any extra on receipt. The only slight annoyance is that this was 2 weeks ago and since then they've dropped the website price by another £20.00!

I have had good responses previously when asking some details about their KT controllers, so I have no complaints other than their website being hard to navigate.

You've all been very helpful so far, thanks.

Re. Cabling: I'm competent with a soldering iron etc., so while I don't mind too much about cutting and splicing cables for PAS etc., I'd prefer to leave the 9 way Julet motor connector as is, so looking for a mating cable. I seem to be able to find plenty, but they're only 600mm long, which won't reach from the controller, which is between the seat down tube and the rear mudguard, to the front hub. Any idea where I might find a longer cable, without breaking the bank?

Also, I'm hoping that the LCD5 display I ordered comes complete with cable, but it's hard to tell from that Pswpower web site.

You've all been very helpful so far, thanks.

Re. Cabling: I'm competent with a soldering iron etc., so while I don't mind too much about cutting and splicing cables for PAS etc., I'd prefer to leave the 9 way Julet motor connector as is, so looking for a mating cable. I seem to be able to find plenty, but they're only 600mm long, which won't reach from the controller, which is between the seat down tube and the rear mudguard, to the front hub. Any idea where I might find a longer cable, without breaking the bank?

Also, I'm hoping that the LCD5 display I ordered comes complete with cable, but it's hard to tell from that Pswpower web site.

There are loads of people selling motor cables of every type and length on Ebay.

This is how it looks on PC, I don't know how t looks on Android, iDevice etc... they've got controller descriptions in the "Alt" tag of the images, which only appear when you hover over them with your mouse pointer, and what you've selected for "SKU" only appears above after you've selected an image.

 

[ATTACH type=full" alt="63204]63204[/ATTACH]

Its really confusing on Android because you don't see the alt text when you select it, but after you have selected everything it shows it

 

Its really confusing on Android because you don't see the alt text when you select it, but after you have selected everything it shows it

 

[ATTACH type=full" alt="Screenshot 2025-05-15 09.32.18.png]63209[/ATTACH]

 

There's no "MouseOver" equivalent event to program for on Android, but if you press and hold on the controller image, the ALT text pops up. Mobile devices have ruined the internet.

Holy cow! The controller arrived today! Complete with a throttle I don't want/didn't order and a PAS that I don't want/didn't order, and a cable that doesn't seem to be if any use. Sadly, the motor cable will probably take much longer in transit.

So...I guess the throttle will be useful for testing, and I might replace the PAS that I already have, even though the sensor is epoxied to the frame...

However, I'm slightly dismayed that there appears to be no "learn mode", so I'll have to try 36 different permutations of phases and hall sensors, unless there's a shortcut or trick?

So...I guess the throttle will be useful for testing, and I might replace the PAS that I already have, even though the sensor is epoxied to the frame...

However, I'm slightly dismayed that there appears to be no "learn mode", so I'll have to try 36 different permutations of phases and hall sensors, unless there's a shortcut or trick?

If you have a KT controller, you can have a legal throttle with P4 =1 and C4=3. That way, the throttle gives 4mphwhen not pedalling and 15 mph when pedalling. It works like a boost button. You ride along at level 3 or whatever you want, then when you press the throttle, it goes immediately to level 5 to boost you across crossings, round roundabouts and up short hills. When you let go of the throttle, it goes back to level 3 - much easier than working your way up and down the buttons.

If you have a KT controller, you can have a legal throttle with P4 =1 and C4=3. That way, the throttle gives 4mphwhen not pedalling and 15 mph when pedalling. It works like a boost button. You ride along at level 3 or whatever you want, then when you press the throttle, it goes immediately to level 5 to boost you across crossings, round roundabouts and up short hills. When you let go of the throttle, it goes back to level 3 - much easier than working your way up and down the buttons.

Thanks

Interesting.

Any insights on sorting the phase and hall connections? Further reading suggests it might not be necessary to go through all 36 permutations, but you guys seem to have a lot of experience.

Thanks

Interesting.

Any insights on sorting the phase and hall connections? Further reading suggests it might not be necessary to go through all 36 permutations, but you guys seem to have a lot of experience.

36 combinations of which 3 will work, so the chance of getting it right first time is 1 in 12. And you should get it within 12 tries. If it takes you 33 tries to get it right, buy a Euromillions ticket for tonight because it's over £125 million and you'll be due some luck.

36 combinations of which 3 will work, so the chance of getting it right first time is 1 in 12. And you should get it within 12 tries. If it takes you 33 tries to get it right, buy a Euromillions ticket for tonight because it's over £125 million and you'll be due some luck.

Sadly, luck doesn't work like that.

One more thing, while I wait for the motor cable to arrive: I think I'm right in saying that I will need to keep the spoke magnet and sensor, as the hub motor has a freewheel?

That being the case I will have to move it from the back wheel to the front, so that I can break out the wires for it.

The supplied(but not ordered) PAS has a captive rotating part, and no means to mount the stationary part, apart from the cable. Are these reliable, or do they wear out quickly? I'd like to use it to avoid having to bugger up the nice neat wiring loom, and because I would hope that it's compatible with the controller, even though I've had no problem with the existing one, I have seen threads on here from people who have.

Well, the motor cable finally arrived (Thanks, Evri...) and it's no bloody use at all! I now have two female connectors, which I find totally weird.

So I'll just cut the cable and solder things. I'd hoped to have a neat, removable solution, but obviously the universe had other ideas.

Finally got the phase and hall effect connections sorted. Note to self: Don't assume the black wire is ground - it just could be the screen, and the black wire is redundant... That wasted a fair amount of time! The LCD kept saying E03, but I assumed that an incorrect hall sequence could give that, so it wasn't until I got the meter out that I realised I had no ground continuity.

 

Now need to do a proper job of splicing the relevant wires together, and try to devise a method of physically fixing the controller to the frame.

Hmmm. It's a lot better than the Brainpower controller, but seems to cut power at about 11.5 mph, even though the max speed is set for 25kph.

Any insights?

Hmmm. It's a lot better than the Brainpower controller, but seems to cut power at about 11.5 mph, even though the max speed is set for 25kph.

Any insights?

Sounds like the P1 setting is out.

Sounds like the P1 setting is out.

That's the conclusion I've been coming to, after more reading. The speedometer reading is, I think, correct, but that comes from a spoke magnet sensor. Is it possible that the speed limiting is independently controlled by the P1 setting?

My P1 is currently 87, am I right in that I would need to increase this to get to the 15mph limit?