Oxydrive kits

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Still crap photos. Too many wires in the way. It might also be on the back of the PCB, but with all those wires in the way, I can't see.
 

Angiey

Finding my (electric) wheels
Jan 4, 2015
7
1
61
Hi all. Just scrolling through the computer and when I press the set button for a few seconds and then again it scrolls through the different parameters ie mph/kmh, wheel size etc but the fourth parameter comes up as 6 and if I press - button it goes to 1 so only numbers 1 and 6 in this mode. Does anyone know what this is?
 

Nealh

Esteemed Pedelecer
Aug 7, 2014
20,135
8,230
60
West Sx RH
From the pics even enlarged it dosen't look like there is a conventional shunt in their. Also as d8veh mentioned earlier in the thread the pcb is set in a bed of of clear gunk and some of the wiring and components looks to be covered. To the bottom left of all the pics but clearest in 0912 there seems to be a metal silver rod that goes form the red positive along to bank of 7 screws along the side by the blown/burnt resistor. I would say there is no shunt underneath as it looks like the pcb is hard down bedded in the gunk.
 
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Deleted member 4366

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Hi all. Just scrolling through the computer and when I press the set button for a few seconds and then again it scrolls through the different parameters ie mph/kmh, wheel size etc but the fourth parameter comes up as 6 and if I press - button it goes to 1 so only numbers 1 and 6 in this mode. Does anyone know what this is?
IIRC that parameter is the throttle mode. 6 means 6km/h max, and 1 is normal throttle, but with max speed according to level 1 to 6.
 
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Deleted member 4366

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From the pics even enlarged it dosen't look like there is a conventional shunt in their. Also as d8veh mentioned earlier in the thread the pcb is set in a bed of of clear gunk and some of the wiring and components looks to be covered. To the bottom left of all the pics but clearest in 0912 there seems to be a metal silver rod that goes form the red positive along to bank of 7 screws along the side by the blown/burnt resistor. I would say there is no shunt underneath as it looks like the pcb is hard down bedded in the gunk.
The power line on the negative side goes from the black battery wire to the negative leg of the big capacitor. then through the shunt, and then directly to the FETs. It's probably hiding under the big capacitor or the bunch of wires next to it.
 
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selrahc1992

Esteemed Pedelecer
Dec 10, 2014
559
218
The power line on the negative side goes from the black battery wire to the negative leg of the big capacitor. then through the shunt, and then directly to the FETs. It's probably hiding under the big capacitor or the bunch of wires next to it.
thanks both Nealh and D8veh for taking a knowledgeable look - i think the new parts will be delivered thursday - after this i will remove wires and take close-up pics of area under big capacitor oon old controller
 

Ian_Fearn

Pedelecer
Nov 16, 2007
53
17
As of tomorrow I'll have clocked up 150 miles this week (7 days) on mine. Thats a whacking 6 gallons of petrol for me saved and a whole lot of fun and freedom added to the daily commute.

No issues so far. Am charging daily and keeping it topped up. It starts to feel down on power after 20 hilly miles running in power mode 6 constantly but I guess this could be my imagination. I always pedal to keep warm, assist the battery and exercise.

The motor is powerful, battery capacity usable on a daily basis and it is proving a hugely practical asset. I am well happy!
 
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Deleted member 4366

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Let's say that the controller allows 15A. When the battery is full, it will be 42v, so your maximum power from the battery will be 42 x 15 = 630w. When the battery is empty, it will be 31V, so the maximum power it can give will be 31 x 15 = 465w That's a 27% reduction. That's why it's better to keep your battery topped up. You get more power.

6 gallons is about $40, so you get payback in 12 weeks. That's not bad. Plus, you get to live longer.
 

selrahc1992

Esteemed Pedelecer
Dec 10, 2014
559
218
The power line on the negative side goes from the black battery wire to the negative leg of the big capacitor. then through the shunt, and then directly to the FETs. It's probably hiding under the big capacitor or the bunch of wires next to it.
dear all, Andrew sent me all the new stuff (new controller, PAS, brake handles, display - I must say its the best support I've had from a company in a very, very long time and thank him for this, making this project work feels very significant to me). Now for the very big upside to the story - I whacked it all on the bike and - with the PAS on the non drive side (I superglued the sensor to the frame, there isn't a lip to hold it as you may know) and put the magnet ring with it's working surface towards it on the bottom bracket. when I pedal backwards it activates the motor (hallelujah! electricity is mysterious to me and I had visions of some other unidentifiable problem sabotaging everything). so I turn the magnet ring around and nothing happens (motor doesn't get activated nothing happens at all). What can I do? on the plus side the electrics are happy, it's just what to do with the magnet ring? on my bike the drive side is not going to work for the PAS, there just isn't enough space for the magnet ring and I feel very unlike modifying anything after blowing the controller before. your advice is greatly appreciated
 
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Deleted member 4366

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The normal PAS is right hand only, so you've fitted it to the wrong side. The sensors are unmarked, so you don't know if it's right or left handed until you put it on the bike, which might be how your previous one got mixed up. Do you have a square taper BB, in which case the quickest option will be to get a BB that the small left sensor fits. If not, you'll have to wait for Andrew to come back from China to sort it out. Andrew told me that the idea was that the kit would be supplied with a rh one, but by request a customer could get a lh one, so he ordered a separate bag of lh ones. Then, the new type came out for the lh side, so they were included in the kit instead. There should, therefore, still be a bag of lh sensors somewhere. Maybe they'll send you one to try, but there's no way of knowing definitely whether it's lh or rh until it's on your bike. It's easy to test a sensor before you put it on your bike as long as you can connect it. You only have to hold the sensor with one hand and rotate the magnet disc with the other to see which way it works, but that would be tricky for a guy in a warehouse with no bike to connect it to.
 
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selrahc1992

Esteemed Pedelecer
Dec 10, 2014
559
218
The normal PAS is right hand only, so you've fitted it to the wrong side. The sensors are unmarked, so you don't know if it's right or left handed until you put it on the bike, which might be how your previous one got mixed up. Do you have a square taper BB, in which case the quickest option will be to get a BB that the small left sensor fits. If not, you'll have to wait for Andrew to come back from China to sort it out. Andrew told me that the idea was that the kit would be supplied with a rh one, but by request a customer could get a lh one, so he ordered a separate bag of lh ones. Then, the new type came out for the lh side, so they were included in the kit instead. There should, therefore, still be a bag of lh sensors somewhere. Maybe they'll send you one to try, but there's no way of knowing definitely whether it's lh or rh until it's on your bike. It's easy to test a sensor before you put it on your bike as long as you can connect it. You only have to hold the sensor with one hand and rotate the magnet disc with the other to see which way it works, but that would be tricky for a guy in a warehouse with no bike to connect it to.
many thanks that's very helpful. I think I will have to get a new bottom bracket - I will need to do some reading first (Sheldon etc) to figure out what I have (square taper I think) - which BB will the small sensor fit? on mine the splines on the non drive side looked as if it should fit =- but, immensely frustratingly, it just wouldn't go in (the small sensor into the splines). as an aside, when I turn the wheel with the magnet ring flipped wrong way round the light on the PAS goes on - but permanently not flashing.
 
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Deleted member 4366

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Take your existing BB to Halfords, and check it against their ones for the same length. You can measure yours if you want. Check that the sensor fits in the Halfords one. If it does, the Halfords BB is about £10. I heard that it's Shimano BBs that it doesn't fit. Maybe there's others. Unfortunately, I don't have a sensor to try.
 

selrahc1992

Esteemed Pedelecer
Dec 10, 2014
559
218
Take your existing BB to Halfords, and check it against their ones for the same length. You can measure yours if you want. Check that the sensor fits in the Halfords one. If it does, the Halfords BB is about £10. I heard that it's Shimano BBs that it doesn't fit. Maybe there's others. Unfortunately, I don't have a sensor to try.
many thanks, will do and let all know how i get on
 

morsmana

Pedelecer
Jan 12, 2015
40
3
63
Hi guys
Have a look at my posts a few days back. I found the shimano bob doesn't fit the non chain side crank. I found that ones manufactured by ETC work, got a couple off eBay this week for a tenner each. They don't have such a large step at the end of the square taper and also the pattern of the threaded piece on the end of the bb mates with the corresponding pattern on the speed sensor.
 
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morsmana

Pedelecer
Jan 12, 2015
40
3
63
Hi guys
Have a look at my posts a few days back. I found the shimano bob doesn't fit the non chain side crank. I found that ones manufactured by ETC work, got a couple off eBay this week for a tenner each. They don't have such a large step at the end of the square taper and also the pattern of the threaded piece on the end of the bb mates with the corresponding pattern on the speed sensor.
Shimano bb, not shimano bob!
 
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selrahc1992

Esteemed Pedelecer
Dec 10, 2014
559
218
Hi guys
Have a look at my posts a few days back. I found the shimano bob doesn't fit the non chain side crank. I found that ones manufactured by ETC work, got a couple off eBay this week for a tenner each. They don't have such a large step at the end of the square taper and also the pattern of the threaded piece on the end of the bb mates with the corresponding pattern on the speed sensor.
many thanks!