Which Kit?

[John L]

Thanks guys. I'll try to get them on live chat tomoro.

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[Nealh]

I tried a 36v version with the Q128C originally and used it remotely in an aerate under saddle bag with 10s lipo. It was worked well for 35 or so miles then one of the caps let go and a cordite type smell was noticed. Unsure if it was just a bad controller or if heat build up may have been a cause.
Opening the controller there was fibre everywhere as it had literally exploded.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

Capacitors explode if you run them at a voltage higher than their rating or if you reverse the polarity. With the small ones, the aluminium case can go like a bullet. I've seen someone hit on the arm at 20 ft, and it made quite a bruise.

Most 24v controllers can be run at 36v. Most 36v controllers can be run at 12S (44v). The only way to be sure is to check the writing on the main capacitor. You also have to be aware that the low voltage cut-off and battery indicators will be wrong, and in some cases, the controller's software won't allow the higher voltage.

 

[John L]

Was that with a 48v battery Nealh? I was looking at the pswpower site and thinking about their 48v kt controller. If needed would the lcd, pas etc from bmsb controller fit a pswpower controller? I expect they would but I'm wondering about the lenght of the wiring given that the bmsb controller would be built into the battery housing.



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[Nealh]

Was that with a 48v battery Nealh? I was looking at the pswpower site and thinking about their 48v kt controller. If needed would the lcd, pas etc from bmsb controller fit a pswpower controller? I expect they would but I'm wondering about the lenght of the wiring given that the bmsb controller would be built into the battery housing.

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No, was with 10s lipo/42v max.
As mentioned caps blow above their voltage rating, In my case it wasn't voltage or polarity. I can only assume QC wasn't up to scratch on this particular one.

The PSW controllers use SM2/SM3 M/F connectors so some soldering/heat shrinking would be needed, wire length can be adjusted accordingly then. The 09 integrated controller uses higo waterproof connectors.

 

[John L]

Thanks. I dont mind soldering etc its getting right connectors is the issue. I'll look into them more if I decide to go down that route.

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[John L]

I think I'm ok. BMSB said they will send the 48v controller Hopefully they do.

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[John L]

Well first half of the components arrived. Eclipse battery fits nicely in the frame after fitting a rivnut further up the down tube.

BMSB are packaging the motor wheel etc and sending it by fedex. Hopefully it won't take too long to arrive.

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[Forge Custom]

Hi John

Which LCD did you get in the end? Also, when it's all plugged in, is there a checklist of parameters that need to be changed?

Assuming 36v Q128C 201, 48v battery and controller. Mine will have 27.5" wheels.

Cheers

Matt

 

[John L]

Hi Matt

The particular controller I ordered came with the s-lcd 3. I'm afraid I don't yet know the parameters that can be changed.

The order from BMSB is on its way. I intended fitting the kit and then investigating the changes I can make. I would love to get my hands on a checklist. Maybe some of the guys here can advise us both. J


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[Deleted member 4366]

You don't need a checklist. 9 times out of 10 they work perfectly out of the box. The one in 10 can be anything, so see what happens, then ask if anything doesn't work.

If you've mixed and matched components, check that the wires in each side of the connectors match.

If you have the external wheel-speed sensor and there's no connector for it, you have to pull the white wire from the hall connector. That's for the signal wire from the sensor. to power the sensor, you need to take branches off a red 5v and black ground. You find them on the throttle, PAS or hall connector.

 

[John L]

Thanks for that. Its reassuring. Scheduled delivery date is this coming Friday. I feel like a kid waiting for Christmas

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[John L]

Well everything arrived this afternoon including a 48v controller

I've already swapped over the cassette and the wheel sits comfortably in the dropouts except the 160mm rotor is rubbing. I'll have a closer look tomorrow.

Anything in particular I should watch out for as I begin the build?

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[Deleted member 4366]

You need a washer on the axle on the disc side to bring the disc in line with the caliper.

 

[Nealh]

I had to fit a 180 rotor and calliper fitting as the calliper rubbed the hub.
Do the tabs of the A/R washers sit in the drop outs ok.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

I had to fit a 180 rotor and calliper fitting as the calliper rubbed the hub.
Do the tabs of the A/R washers sit in the drop outs ok.

did you get the flat pressed type or the thicker cast ones? I have the flat type, and that's what I used on the axle inside the drop-out.

 

[Nealh]

did you get the flat pressed type or the thicker cast ones? I have the flat type, and that's what I used on the axle inside the drop-out.

The thick cast ones came with my Q.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

You have to experiment then. There's no definitive answer. Put the disc on the motor, then arrange washers/AR washers/Torque arm to get the disc to line up with the caliper's approximate middle position. Don't worry about the other side at this point.

The other side is more straight forward. You need to make sure that the top gear can't touch the frame. If the AR washer can go on the inside and not hold the top gear too far away from the frame, then keep it there, otherwise everything can go on the outside of the drop-out, or maybe only a thin washer on the axle inside the drop-out to keep the top gear clear.

 

[John L]

did you get the flat pressed type or the thicker cast ones? I have the flat type, and that's what I used on the axle inside the drop-out.

Its the flat pressed type. Good idea about using it on the inside. Was out all morning so only getting around to it now.

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[John L]

You have to experiment then. There's no definitive answer. Put the disc on the motor, then arrange washers/AR washers/Torque arm to get the disc to line up with the caliper's approximate middle position. Don't worry about the other side at this point.

The other side is more straight forward. You need to make sure that the top gear can't touch the frame. If the AR washer can go on the inside and not hold the top gear too far away from the frame, then keep it there, otherwise everything can go on the outside of the drop-out, or maybe only a thin washer on the axle inside the drop-out to keep the top gear clear.

Putting the disk on the motor proved slightly problematic. I used the screws that came from the original wheel. But they were too long and jammed the motor when tightened! I had 6 shorter ones from an old disk brake rotor and they worked fine.

I'll try a combination of washer set ups and hopefully hit on one the fits.

The wiring in the box looks like a snake pit! Hopefully the right connections will become obvious when I examine them.

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