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Showing content with the highest reputation on 29/03/26 in all areas

  1. No two riders will get the same range from the same bike or same battery, riding range is very variable. As d8veh has said he can drain a battery in 15 miles or get over 100. Like wise I can do similar, but typically if I have the battery power I will tend to use it for the most part.
  2. If you want to get to that level of discernment, the only way forward is to ride bikes with the different setup on an identical course, and then ride them many times, keeping note of the ranges achieved. The confounding variables would be, temperature, wind speeds, terrain, and road quality. You probably ought also to use the same tyres and at the same pressures. If you REALLY wanted to do this, I would say you should ride the bikes around a velodrome of some sort, to get rid of terrain differences, wind, road surface, and temperature variations Better still, just forget about it and ride with a nice big battery, and carry a couple of pies to make sure that if the battery lets you down, you have enough energy to get home. It used to be so simple when I was young, and just rode my bike, and carried a couple of Mars Bars in case I got worn out. I remember taking my eldest son on a long ride when he was eight. He is 46 now and a lot heavier than back then. We rode from Newcastle to Richmond and then cut off to go to a youth hostel at a place called Ellingstring. Coming up a hill to Richmond, he started crying and saying he had no more energy, so I just chucked him a packet of chocolate digestives. He sat on the verge, bubbling and ate two thirds of the packet, and then as if by magic, he got up and started off again and rode the rest of the way without complaint. We rode 65 miles and he broke down at a bit over 50 miles. Surprisingly - he still speaks to me. Social services were not involved.
  3. Any motor wheel with the same 9-pin connector will work. The only thing you need to watch out for is the speed. Motors are designed to run at different maximum speeds, and that needs to match your modal riding speed. Motors for 16" and 20" wheels run much faster than ones for 26" wheels, so you need to get one for the wheel size you want. In other words, if you have a bike with 26" wheels and find a motor in a 26" wheel, it'll probably be OK, but one in a 20" wheel won't. The general rule is that the motor should have a max speed of 1.3 times your modal riding speed, but sellers rarely know or publish any accurate info on the motor's speed. Sometimes the motors have a label or stamping that indicates the wheel size. By way of example you could have the situation where someone didn’t understand any of this, their 26" wheel motor failed, they found a bare motor for 20" wheel on Ebay, so they bought it and built it into a 26" wheel. When they tried it, it worked, but performed poorly. It wouldn’t climb hills very well and it got very hot. When they lifted the wheel off the ground, they saw it spin up to 34 mph. They took it off and put it back on Ebay, maybe listing it as "very fast" in the hope that ignorant buyers would believe that their bike would go faster if they fitted it.
  4. That guy was fortunate as he 'says' UK ebikes are highly regulated ????? His by what I can see isn't one of those and is modified DIY bit of a lash up job. Look like an old modded oxygen or Wisper model.
  5. Someone fairly fit or one who is a regular cyclist should be able to equate to 7 -10 watt hours per mile battery usage, given benign riding conditions . A not so cycle fit rider or a heavy rider may have to equate approx.12 - 15 wpm. An a totally unfit person 20wh pm plus. Power mode selected to ride in, tyres, terrain and winds all will pay a part in coming to range figures as well as the previous mentioned cycle fitness.
  6. What @Nealh said ! When considering battery range, the average battery consumption for a legal pedelec varies quite widely from 5Wh/mile to 20Wh/ mile - it depends how heavy you are, how hilly it is and how much assist you need / how much pedal input you provide. How heavy are you - what e-bikes are you considering - the ones without battery comms are a lot cheaper (although the estimated range left is not so accurate). I consider myself quite a strong pedaller, but I'm heavy (>100kg) and its very hilly near me, a 720Wh battery will last me about 70 miles (so 10Wh/mile) When I started I was nearer 13-14 Wh per mile, but my contribution to the journeys has increased !
  7. The 30 - 80% range is nonsense for the most part and only relates to how a battery should be stored when not in use for long periods. Charging to 100% isn't an issue in the short term , typically most of us will fully charge a battery before a long ride some 12 - 24hrs before hand. As with lithium batteries it is a case of use them or lose them, many on here like me will have lithium batteries that are over 5yrs old and still very usable. A battery seldom used will lose capacity faster then a well used regular battery that is charged often.
  8. FWIW the email confirmation process required for password reset contact us and new id registration is or was not in opperation so no difficulties could be reported by me thankfully after waiting a day or so i finally did log in with existing creds
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