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Since boxing day I had been out of the house once to attend a hospital appointment. Today I went out on the bike three times doing a mile or so each time. Cannot explain how much that means to me.:)

Hi all I don't know if this has been discussed but I found a cure for a rattling pannier battery. Mine wasn't horrendous but the roads around where I live aren't the best in places. I originally wedged a bit of card between the battery and the rack. Now have a neater option. Ive used a piece of fuel hose works a treat

After 2 years of dithering and suffering a bit I decided to go Electric. I am 81 years old and have ridden a bike for most of those years. Did CtoC on my new Saracen Flyer Hybrid in 1997. 2 years later I did End to End on the same bike which sits in my garage. I was getting more and more worried about riding up hills. Got very breathless etc. My wife managed a lot better than me. Having decided to go Electric I started looking. I narrowed my search down to 3 bikes and ended up with a Specialized Varo from my Local Bike shop in Retford. It has changed my life. I only ride in Eco mode and find this so brilliant when I feel the motor kicking in. Persuaded my wife to follow my lead and we bought her a Raleigh Motus. She liked the Pink colour! Our rides locally have all been done faster without trying and we just spent a great week in Norfolk with some super rides a few miles south of Norwich. It also makes it easier to do longer rides. My life is so much better with this bike. Glad I stopped dithering.

Correct. You're mad to want two ebikes. I'd get yourself tested or read a few books on lateral thinking to broaden your mind. You should be thinking about a minimum of four. You might not be able to have four because of restrictions on your life (wife, kids, space, etc), but that shouldn't stop you from wanting them. Here's the science on the matter, just to prove what I'm saying: Nn = No+1 Where Nn is the number of ebikes needed and No is the number you own.

Good news! I've now converted my Spa Ti Tourer and found that the new CANbus display/control enables all the tweaking that I want to do, to be done via the 'Advanced Settings' menu on the display itself I chose the Varstrom EKD01 display because it's not too bulky and can easily be adapted to fit the slightly larger diameter of a dropped handlebar (by fitting a thinner rubber liner in the clamp, that I cut from an old inner tube). I can't guarantee that other displays have this facility but I don't see why they wouldn't, since most of them are bigger and more expensive than EKD01. To me it seems a distinct improvement that the new system doesn't require connection via a programming lead to a PC in order to customise how assistance is delivered within legal limits. Or even beyond those limits, since maximum assist speed is one of the parameters that can be and indeed HAS to be adjusted, since the unit defaults to 99kmph! Wheel size defaults to 26in and may also have to be adjusted. Both of these settings are found under the Information tab of the Settings top menu. In order to change them you need to enter the settings password '2020' (cannot be changed, unlike the main screen password '0000'). Another thing you might want to change is the number of assistance levels. I'm happy with the system default of five levels. Select 'Boost Gear' under the Display Setting tab if you'd prefer three or nine. Beware that the downloadable instructions loose something in translation from Chinese (assistance level for example, is called 'Gear') and don't exactly correspond with reality. The option to select a different 'Theme' for the Display - of which there are supposed to be four options - just isn't there on my unit. 'Advanced Settings' on the other hand, aren't mentioned in the instructions but ARE there on my unit: last item before 'Back' under the Information tab. And thank goodness for that! Select Advanced Settings (you'll need to enter '2020') and you get the following list: Speed up Character Max Output Power Speed limit in Gear Start up Angel Exit The first three items in that list let you tweak the performance arameters of each 'Gear' or assistance level. Select one of those parameters and you'll get a list of three, five or nine 'Gears', plus Exit. Select one of those Gears and the next thing you'll see is a slider that can be shifted to and fro with the + and - buttons. Here's what they do. Speed up Character seems to set how much extra power the motor will apply in a short burst, in attempting to boost cadence (pedal speed) up to whatever limit has been set below. This parameter is tweakable from 1s to 8s - presumably those are seconds. I don't want a sudden jerk whenever I shift actual gears, so I set most levels at 1s, with 2s & 3s for the top two levels. I don't know what 8s feels like but certainly don't need it and am pretty sure I wouldn't like it! Max Output Power is THE key setting parameter. The slider sets the percentage of maximum output power (legally 250W) that'll normally be applied at that level. Assuming 50W from me, I did the maths to work out what percentage of 250W assistance the motor should provide in order to get the same percentage increase in total power at each change of level from 50W at zero to 300W at level 5. Accordingly I set level 1 at 9%, 2 at 21%, 3 at 39%, 4 at 60%, 5 at 100%. Speed limit in Gear means pedalling speed, what cyclists usually call cadence. This slider sets the percentage of the motor unit's maximum cadence - which seems to be just over 80rpm - at which the unit decides you are pedalling fast enough already not to want any more help. Maybe it suits novice and occasional riders to pedal slowly when the going is easy and faster up hills, because that's how the default settings are, with lower cadence percentages at lower assistance levels. As a lifelong cyclist however, I'm accustomed to pedal at about 80rpm regardless, if anything slightly slower uphill than on the flat. So for the time being I've set all my sliders to 100%. I might put levels 4 and 5 a little lower, but since I haven't needed more than level 3 so far, even on 1:5 hills around here in the Peak District, I'm not in any hurry to do that. Start up Angel (sic) is the deity who decides how far you must turn the pedals before the motor kicks in. The default is 60° and as that's also the minimum end of the scale I haven't changed it, or bothered to discover how much further one can delay the arrival of heavenly assistance! Your mileage/maths may vary, but for me the above numbers are working very nicely. I call them my ten times years younger levels. Even a mere 23W of assistance seems to make hills as easy as they were ten years ago and with 250W it's like I'm 21 again!

Merry Christmas to Hatti, Tony and all @ Wooshbikes.

Dtrip means strip, but it might be even worse. I've always used the cheapest tools, and I've used them many times on every type of pedal arm. They still work perfectly and have no damage to the threads. You must be doing something wrong. They should screw in at least half way with just your fingers. If you've had to screw one in with a spanner, you probably had it cross-threaded, which is very easy to do because it's such a fine thread.

I've ridden bikes all my life. Usual utility stuff, paper round, youthful misadventures, girlfriends (amazing how far you can cycle when 'urged' ). But I've never been a strong cyclist and would often struggle and suffer against wind and on hills. When I moved to Ceredigion in 2000 the hills put an end to my leisure rides with the bikes only coming out a couple of times a year when we could take them somewhere flat. In 2013 we got a Big Bear for the misses. At least we could now go out together, however on a holiday in Anglesea I was getting left behind by a woman in a summer dress and a straw hat. Frankly it was embarrassing. That's when I got my first Ezee kit. Some 15k miles later I've now got a rear AKM and still going. Ghost pedaling ,when the knees are playing up, means I can still do the shopping and leisure rides and tackle some pretty stiff hills around here. Hope to get the wife back on the Big Bear soon, after a hip replacement, as soon as she can handle the step through.

Any one who really wants to ride around on the roads at 30mph ought to really just be done with it and use a legally registered moped.

hi all, i'm 79 and have found my folding biocycle chameleon with 20inch wheels a little love. it's a 2014 model so has a legal throttle which is great for getting moving. with my mate we go for weekly cycles of 20-23 miles. i have recently bought a 2020 juicy classic, to get bigger wheels as we like to travel on bridleways and mainly off road

I tend not to believe AI unless I've fact checked it first. It wasn't that long ago that Google AI was saying the best way to stick cheese on pizza was to glue it.

Haibike sDuro HardSeven SL 2015 Yamaha 11 year Update. The photographs are from a new route that continues along The River Wey Tow path to The New Inn pub at Send where I continue the ride to Woking on occasion for my mostly monthly get together of retired rail workers at The Railway club there. Transmission Well the new transmission I put on around the 23rd of March last year 2025 is knackered but working, though it will need to be replaced very soon . So that transmission with new Cassette, chain ring, chain, and jockey wheels, has lasted a more normal year of regular and constant use including a lot of off road miles. Like the previous transmission I put a new chain on so I have used up two chains. I will keep using it until it starts skipping in the top gear cog but cannot see that lasting too much longer. Battery The new battery and charger that I bought on the 9th of September 2024 are working as they should. Motor Nothing to report and all working as it should since my motor was refurbished by Peter at Performance line bearings around the 18th of November 2022 . Wear and tear The usual replacement of brake pads as needed and swapping over/cleaning degreasing chains. The rear tyre may need to be replaced quite soon. The front also may need to be replaced as well. However no punctures. Replacements The control unit and centre holder to which my removable display slots into became faulty. I contacted Ebike shop Farnham who recommended fitting a new one, got hold of one within a few days and replaced it, after which everything worked properly again. Very prompt service for a bespoke part for a bike over 10 years old was very impressive. My Tektro rear brake handlebar oil reservoir developed a slight leak. A local bike mechanic I had come across and been impressed by had a look, bled it. topped it up. and fitted a small o ring seal with my slight assistance that cured the leak. Charged nothing. The same bike mechanic changed my headset bearings. I dropped the bike off and he rang me before I got home to say it was done and ready to collect. So I turned the car around and went back and got the bike. Again very impressive. He is so good and reasonable that he is making me lazy and I got him to change my gear cable. Conclusion Like last year I am aware that this update fulfils little purpose other than for my own benefit. One thing about last years and this years updates is how they highlight the benefit of buying from a good local dealer that has allowed me to obtain bespoke replacement parts very easily to keep my now eleven year old bike on the road. The bike is still as it always has been great fun and very capable. Lots of off road fun, and lots of shopping trips, quite often the two combined. My young son and I had a great three day trip away together to the seaside. Staying in a B&B in the glorious Torquay. My son works for The railway as I did and this allowed us to travel free with our bikes to Exeter. The plan then had been to ride out of Exeter on the river To Dawlish Warren enjoying the relatively mostly flat cycle path route and then catch a Train to Torquay to avoid lots of climbing and a quite busy and narrow A road. Unfortunately a suicide led to the line being closed for a few hours and we had to ride the whole way a distance of just over 25 miles with a lot of climbing after Dawlish Warren. We made it and it all added to the adventure. I also took my Bike on the train to Petersfield to climb Butser Hill via a track called Limekiln a spectacular climb with amazing views.

It's a self-torture device. You push the seat down, swing your leg over and start pedalling. when you're ready, you pull the release lever, which makes the seat spring up instantly to full height. It kicks you in the nuts so hard that you fall off and have to lie on the ground for a minute or so until the pain goes away. When your eyes have stopped watering enough to be able to see where you're going, you can have another go. You can do it again and again until you feel you've punished yourself enough for your sins.

Why would you want to rip-off the seller? He advertised the motor in good faith and described it correctly. He was kind enough to accept your low offer, and you want it for nothing, plus you want him to lose the money he spent on shipping. I don't know how you guys sleep at night. You worry all the time about the dangers of riding your bike, but aren't you worried about what karma can do to you or whether you have to go up or down the steps when you get to meet St. Peter?

For a mile and a half the technical aspects of the bike hardly matter. Its more about making the riding experience something you look forward to so that you carry on using it, and minimising the need for maintenance so that it doesn't quickly become a chore. Mudguards, lights, comfortable riding position which means saddle and bars and the right height for both. Disc brakes, maybe a chain guard but they are less common. Cycle to work scheme tends to push you towards more expensive, so consider whether you would use the bike for other purposes, because the requirements of those might be more important than the commute. Or can you save money by buying cheap and cheerful outside the scheme? And finally, security: is there a nice lockable bike shed at work? If not, you might want something unattractive, cheap and simple.

So this is my 2002 Trek 4300 I converted about 3 years ago and a wonderful thing it is too. But, I've decided I need a folding bike because: a) I like building bikes b) Putting my full size bike in the car is a right old pfaff, I can just chuck a folder in the back without even flattening the rear seats and zoom off to Devizes (30 minutes away) and enjoy the delights of the kennet and Avon canal towpath for miles (other canals are available). c) The n+1 formula or whatever the formula is. d) It annoys the wife. So, after taking advice from our resident folding bike expert Peter.Bridge, I decided on a Carrera Intercity Disk 8. After a lot of private messaging with Peter, he has been nagging me to start a post about this build , so here it is. The reasons for choosing the Carrera Intercity Disk 8 are: a) aluminium frame b) steel forks with 100mm dropouts c) 20" wheels with 406 rims, for those that are curious 20" rims come in two sizes, 406 for fat(ish) tyres and 451 for skinny tyres. d) Disk brakes (very important) e) 8 speed cassette After much looking on eBay, Gumtree and Marketplace I finally did a deal with a guy from Worcester who was willing to meet me half way. And I got it for 100 quid, which is very cheap, they often go for double that or more. This is the sorry spectacle of the seller's photo: For reasons unknown the previous owner fitted a comfort saddle (no complaints from me) and a pair of hideous elephant grey tyres. Since I collected it I have changed the tyres for black ones. Also changed the chain (obvs) with a low mileage 8 speed chain I had in my shed. The removed chain (look away now, if you're squeamish): I have changed many other components too, but more about that in my next post. I spent a lot of time removing all the fasteners etc. de-rusting, greasing, reassembling. Stay tuned for the next instalment, lots more pics to come.

Talking about nuclear fusion and since the only nuclear fusion actually happening properly, happens in stars, I got to wondering how common different kinds of stars were, in our own neighbourhood part of the galaxy. I knew that red dwarf stars were the most common, but I did not know just how common - at least in this part of the galaxy. Around here - within 2 million times the distance of the earth to the sun (about 10 parsecs) there are: 7 stars like the sun (yellow dwarfs) 276 red dwarf stars 85 Brown dwarfs (failed stars that don't really shine but do give off heat). Only two stars within 10 parsecs are bigger than the sun - Sirius, and Procyon A ,being twice and 1.5 times the mass of the sun. Procyon is much hotter than the sun giving off 7 times the sun's energy. Be glad we don't orbit that one then. The sun is bigger than most stars in the galaxy with only a single figures percentage being more massive than our own star - maybe 5% to 7% of stars. It is impossible to give a certain figure, because large parts of the Milky Way are obscured by dust clouds, so we can't see into them. That said there are a very few absolute behemoths of super giant stars, some are twenty times the mass of the sun, but hundreds of thousands of times the sun's volume. You can spot Betelgeuse in Orion easily during the winter. It is the red/orange star on the left here below - the left shoulder of the imagined figure of Orion the hunter. EDIT: ACCURACY WARNING - My data shows that there are 85 Brown dwarfs within 10 parsecs of the sun.... But it is likely that there are a large number more than that. Because they are extremely dim, it is probable that we just can't spot a lot of them, even with the James Webb space telescope, so keep that in mind. I actually have a bit of a theory of my own about 'dark matter' and what it might be. My thoughts are that perhaps we don't need to invent weird and wonderful new invisible material to account for the invisible gravity which changes the way stars move and the galaxy rotates. The anomalies discovered in galaxy rotation led researchers to speculate about something they called 'Dark Matter'. I wonder if it could be explained by vast numbers of failed stars like Brown Dwarfs, sub stars that never got big enough to start fusing hydrogen, and just collected up large amounts of the missing matter. Maybe they are extremely common, but invisible to us. What we have seen, is that galaxies rotate at speeds we can't explain according to the visible mass we can see. What if the missing mass is just huge amounts of invisible failed stars - Brown Dwarfs? There might also be billions of sub Brown Dwarf objects like massive rogue planets which have formed without any parent star. Now and again, some of these planets without stars are spotted by telescopes, but their lack of emitted light makes it very difficult to see and quantify them. My theory of Dark Matter..... Who knows?

I worry that all iron in my blood will be attracted to those magnets near the saddle, resulting in iron testicles, which will be dragged stretching my scrotum to be crushed between those magnets at the back.

People look to ebikes for many reasons, from those seeking maximum assist with minimum personal effort and vice versa and with all stages in between. In 2020 permanent AF (Atrial Fibrillation) struck leaving me finding it difficult to climb stairs let alone ride a bike. Various treatments with varying degrees of success over the next 4 years ultimately led to a ‘good result’ for me and my cycling. In that intervening period my ebike conversion (TSDZ2 on a Dawes Galaxy) got me back on the road quite quickly thanks in no small part to technical input from this forum (too many to name but you know who you are :-) ). Over time as health improved, so did the ability to cycle with reduced levels of ‘e’ assistance and from springtime this year I found it possible to cycle without ‘e’ at all on the flatter parts of rides. This led to a cycle of events (no pun intended) whereby cycling unassisted saw me get stronger so then the cycling miles without ‘e’ increased – and then fitness got better still and so on. I now have 3 conversions, 2xTSDZ2 on flat handlebar bikes, 1x front hub motor on a road bike, my old carbon frame Trek Madone. I now use the Trek for the ‘faster’ group rides in our club. Now don’t get me wrong, I’m no born again roadie (too old at 74!) and still rely on some ‘e’ to get me through but now only on the sharper inclines. Yesterday’s ride exemplifies the benefits of using an ebike to recover from illness in that over 56 miles and 1,000 of ascent (the South Downs area) I used just over 25% of my 300 Wh battery (2.95Wh/mile) as for much of the ride, road speed was above the ‘e’ cut-off and on the flatter parts of the ride, ‘e’ was at zero – the delights of riding lighter bikes with smaller batteries and ‘recovered’ legs! I frequently see unassisted riders who struggle on demanding rides but refuse to ‘give in’ as they see it, to ‘e’ assist but I would say to them, use the ‘e’ only when you need to, enjoy your rides more or if you’ve been unwell, consider the ‘e’ assist as part of your rehabilitation I would be interested to hear from others whose ‘e’ assist has led to them getting fitter rather than as some folks say, that ebikes make you lazy (but I’d say only if you choose it to be that way).

I'd like to have an argument please.

I just wanted to add my experience with the Woosh BBTS kit: A couple of years ago I fitted an Aikema 100H front hub motor with KT controller and cadence sensor to my hybrid, which I use for errands and local journeys. I'm retired and fairly fit, but my right knee whinges if I try to put too much effort through it. I generally had the KT controller set to level 1 or 2 and it worked fine, although the way it delivered power never felt quite natural to me. With the motor on the front wheel I found slow manoeuvring around obstacles tricky, as the motor seemed to kick in just when you didn't want it to. The reason I chose a front motor is that I love my internal gear hub and don't want to lose it. I've always thought torque-based control should be the most natural way to go, but had read a number of comments from others who reckoned it didn't work for them. Anyway, I ordered one of the BBTS kits to find out for myself. Andy at Woosh was most helpful. Installation is fairly straightforward though I would recommend reading the PDF guide on the Woosh site carefully first. I've been riding with the new system for several weeks now and, for me at least, it's perfect. It feels much more natural and the motor is even quieter than it was with the KT controller. I usually ride in level 1 (out of 5) and on the flat the motor barely kicks in. When I pull away or come to a hill the current increases proportionally with effort up to almost 3A – so probably around 90W after losses. In levels 2 and 3 the maximum current increases to about 5.5A and 8A respectively, which is handy on steeper hills. I've only tested levels 4 and 5 briefly, but they're more than I need, around town at least. It's made me realise that I could get away with an even smaller (and lighter) motor. The one slight drawback, for me, is the relatively large display, as I prefer a stealthy look, but I can live with that. I guess my message is that if you enjoy cycling but just want some natural-feeling assistance to maintain a decent speed up hills or against the wind then torque sensing is probably a good fit.

If one doesn't want any of the legislative nonsense then one can forget about buying a bike, simply buy a moped but......... That means registering one. It seems today that so many want to be part of the crime statistics by being fined, having points put on licences and having vehicles confiscated.

We recently obtained a 2nd hand Thorn Explorer tandem which we converted to electric assist with a Tongshen TSDZ2B kit from Woosh. We bought this bike primarily to use on gentle off-road tracks / railways paths etc. rather than use our more road orientated Orbit Velocity tandem. Fitted with 26” x 2.1 (559 x 54) tyres, it has actually been quite a capable machine and well up to the task of conveying a couple of oldies off the beaten track. We tried it out recently on some mild off-road tracks around Aviemore in the Cairngorms. There are a lot of decent routes in and around Aviemore and many of them are only accessible by bike / hike – no cars to worry about or avoid. We did several fairly short routes (around 20 miles) and would certainly recommend the area to anyone looking for some modest off-road trips. We stuck to fairly basic routes, but there are also many more testing paths which would require a ‘proper’ mountain bike with full suspension and so on – and of course the ability to ride it! Closer to home, we also have the Lammermuir hills and there are also several tracks to use here too. I was pleasantly surprised at how capable our 25 year old tandem proved to be in tackling the off-road paths simply with the addition of some slightly wider MTB type tyres. The bike has a Rohloff Speedhub and the low gears available on this hub also helped to make it possible for us to get off the tarmac. We did go right down to 1st gear (around 18”) for some of the steeper climbs, but still only needed power level 2 most of the time on the little Tongshen motor. We did briefly use full power for some of the steepest climbs. The motor assist was / is a deciding factor for us venturing off-road too, as we no longer have the strength of younger riders to cope with such adventures. We’ve never been serious mountain bikers, but it is great to get away into forest / hills without being bothered by cars.

I needed a freehub for my 11 year old AKM128c because the pawls stick occasionally due to rust from me being too lazy to put a bit of oil in from time to time. The postage was $9, so i figured I could get some other stuff at the same time to get better value from the postage. One other thing I wanted was an AKM100 C motor for my compact bike project, so I ordered one, a controller, cassette, throttle and speed sensor. They picked up from my order that I'd ordered the 100 sized motor and the 128 sized freehub, which obviously don't go together, and they were worried that I had made a mistake. Several emails went back and forwards because I didn't realise what potential problem they saw. I thought they were worried about the cassette. Anyway, eventually we sorted it out and they sent the stuff. When I opened the box, I saw the sideplate/freehub thing and thought that it looked too small, and after all that, they'd sent me the 100 sized one. Full of despair, I pointed this out by email. They were extremely apologetic and helpful, and they immediately sent the corect part free of charge. When it arrived, I opened the rather small box to find a small sideplate/freehub thing inside, the same size as the last one. I let out a few expletives and started preparing to send another email to them, when one of my spider senses started tingling. I took one out to my Q128c motor to see how it compared. Surprisingly, it was an exact match. Oh sh!!!!. I felt really bad. I would hate myself if I didn't sort it out, so I had the brilliant idea to order another one and pay for it, then tell TBK not to send it, but I was worried that they would send it before they read any email telling them not to. I solved it by sending the email full of apologies and explaining my mistake, and I told them that I would make it up to them by paying for it. I told them that i would place the order the next day, and I had delayed it so that they would read the explanation first. Today, I was just preparing the order, when my email notification went off, and it was a message from TBK saying that even though it was my mistake, I didn't have to pay because it was a genuine mistake. I thought that was really kind of them. I placed the order anyway and paid the £33. I therefore want to give them a shoutout as the least I can do for them. They sell all the different KT controllers and stuff to go with it plus a load of nice motors, and theye're not too expensive. https://topbikekit.com/

I bought this folding bike from a catalogue returns outlet a few months ago, thanks to Guerney pointing it out. I got this one and the Argos £245 one for £200 the pair. This one is 24v and was sold with a known faulty battery. First I repaired the battery - sort of. It was clear that it had been tested because the faulty cell group was already marked. Rather than put in new cells, I was able to get a replacement from somewhere pretty cheap. At 24V and 13A, it was quite weak, but OK to pop down the shops or town centre. My plan was always to convert it to 36v, so that's what I've been doing the last few days, which has been an absolute nightmare. The previous system was a King Meter T319 LED display with Santrol 13A controller with sealed connectors. I only wanted to keep the pedal sensor, so I spent ages searching through all my stuff to find the matching connector and make adapters, only to find that the stupid thing wasn't compatible with the controller. I therefore had to remove the BB to replace the sensor, but it was the old type (not cartridge) type done up by a robot to impossible tightness. The bit I needed to remove was the thing that's flat and like a washer with two flats on it, and it's virtually impossible to remove without some special tool that clamps in place through the BB. After a whole day trying everything I had, I finally got a solution involving two adjustable spanners, a spare pedal arm, a length of 6mm threaded bar plus various nuts and washers, and a long tube to get the necessary leverage. I should've taken a photo because it was quite a creative solution. I replaced the BB with a cartridge type so that nobody will ever have to go through that again. The rest of it was wiring in the throttle, new PAS and LCD, all of which had the wrong connectors and/or wire lengths. I tried various speed sensors, but I couldn't get the three-wire ones to work, so I left it off, mainly because this thing had already been too much hassle. Finally all finished, I set P2=0 in the LCD to get the speed from the motor halls for the legal cut-off, and set P4=1 and C4=3 for the legal throttle. I have yet to set the correct value for P1 to get the correct speed display and cut-off, but the display shows cut-off at 15 mph even if the displayed speed is not correct. I suppose I could set it to cut off at and show 15 mph at say 18 mph by choosing the corresponding P1 value. At 24v and 13A, it only does 12 mph, anyway. Like all these bikes, the gearing is OK for pedalling up to about 12mph, and you can go up to 15mph if you like spinning. The very low gearing compensates a bit for the low power when hill-climbing. The KT control system, as ever, is perfect, apart from the relatively low power and speed of the bike. It's just about worth swapping over to KT, just for that if you're a discerning rider. Now comes the main purpose of this project. For £89, including delivery, you can get exactly the same battery in 36v 10Ah version from PSWPower, which is what I've ordered. The KT controller should seamlessly adjust itself between 36v and 24v, depending on which battery I insert. Check out PSWPower for very cheap batteries of all types: https://pswpower.com/products/no-tax-36v-10ah-haitian-electric-bike-battery-pack-bicycle-lithium-18a-bms-output-500w-157 Total cost so far: Bike £100 KT controller, LCD4, throttle and PAS around £60 BB £6 24v battery £100 36v battery :£89 Total £354. Photos of bike. I shifted the battery down and forward a bit on the rack fixings:

And maybe the are good reasons why the regulations are not changing. There are no doubt a few e-bike riders that 'need' to go faster. There are also lots of people, pedestrians etc, that 'need' the current speed limit to be enforced and not increased.

At the stroke of midnight last night, that being the exact time I was born, I'd completed 32,507 days alive, including leap year extra days, so I'm now 89 years old. But my age today is 90, since today is my 90th first of September, and all of the following 364 days I'm still alive will be my 90th of that date of day and month. After all, I can't be 89 today since I've already lived my 89th first of September a whole year ago and we can't relive the historic dates of our lives a second time. Could ask ChatGPT to sort this apparent anomaly, but I think it might then have a nervous breakdown. .

I finally got my battery, LCD5, PAS and other stuff from Topbikekit. The battery, controller and cables fitted easily into my camera bag. Actually the bag is really too big, I had to stuff quite a bit of padding in there. I will be keeping my eye out for something smaller, certainly narrower anyway. I took my time and went through all the P and C settings on the LCD5. I found this guy's video very helpful. So that's it, job finished, apart from a couple of little things I have to tidy up. I took it out for a test ride and the everything works great, I didn't even notice the weight of the battery over the front wheel. Top speed was about 17MPH, same as on my Trek. Power transmission very smooth. Hill-climbing felt very strong. The riding position was comfortable but the lack of suspension over rough(ish) ground was sorely missed, best to keep the speed down to 12 or even 10MPH over rough ground. This is definitely a tarmac bike, flat, off-road gravel paths are OK, as should be towpaths. Cost breakdown: Bike £100 Yosepower motor wheel and other stuff £134 Topbikekit 15AH battery, KT controller, LCD, PAS plus a couple of other odds and ends £345 Tyres £20 Hydraulic calipers £24 Odds and ends, nuts, bolts, washers, brackets £30 Total £653

Hi, I have always been fit, but old age (i'm 77), a stroke, developing a lung disease and sleep apnea had resuklted in genaral lethargy which was making me depressed. I got a Raleigh Motus step through and thanks to a friend I have been using it every week, for leisure trips and replacing some car journeys. Along with regular canoeing the exercise has improved my mood and helped with weight loss and improvement in my determination! At first I was using turbo mode all the time, but gradually have been able to generally move to using eco mode (and sometimes no assist) only resorting to turbo on the hills! Around Oxford there are many cyclepaths which have been fun and I have even taken my bike on my van further afield.

I am a 72-year-old retired motor racing engineer my history is in Elgin building and computer control I have a fully equipped workshop and I've self built many cars and motorcycles from scratch my plan is to build 2E bikes one EAPC buying the parts secondhand from eBay and one electric motorcycle with a scratch frame for long distance touring and trailer camping apply for a. vin do sva I don't want to go to all that trouble then let plod take it away I need all the help I can get my history and my engineering background mean I will be able to help other people too maybe best wishes to everybody

So apart from that you'd recommend it?

Never ever ever ride up the side of a truck, Articulated or other at a junction. It can literally mean death. If you feel/see theres a build up of traffic behind you, pull over and allow the build up to clear. Drivers are impatient bu66ers and if held back for a minute or two will risk *everything to get past. Always wear a Hi-Vis tabard at night. Doesnt matter it you are super brightly dressed, soon as the sun dips below the horizon all colours turn to black. *Your life PS. Get a book on fixing your bike. It's quite easy really, and will save you a lot of money. YT is excellent for step by step instructions.

My bike fell over today for no reason. I shouted out, "why the flick did that happen". It replied, "I'm two tyred.

Yes, that should sort it, though you should charge at 0.2C, not 0.2 MPS. The cells are probably around 2500 mAh, so that would be 0.5 amps.. The rest is a bit out of balance too, but you should be able to sort it with the BMS balancing system. Just leave the battery on charge for a long time after the light goes green. The balancing system operates when any individual cell reaches 4.2v. It drains them at about 100 mA to let the others catch up. You can use that system to do any balancing, but if one cell is quite low, like yours, it takes a long time. Yours is about 70% down, so needs .7x 2500mAh = 1750mAh, so 17.5 hours to balance.

I don't understand why so many cyclists ride without a mirror. I started using them many years ago and I just haven't looked back ..... (I'll get my coat).

Bit late to this conversation, but here goes.... I'm in my early 60's and had a near catastrophic accident in '22 where I sustained an unstable spine fracture at L1 and a few other vertebrae cracked too. Lots of other broken bits, and a widespread brain bleed. I was a very close one, died on day 4 etc etc... Had to be resuscitated and have a little visit to intensive care and high dependency units. After three significant spinal ops I have a Meccano set holding me upright, and widespread numbness from the middle down.... Hey, I'm vertical and I can shuffle to the pub even though it sort of looks like I've possibly had a different sort of accident when walking now... never mind. Previously an active 'social' cyclist doing many holidays on bikes including riding from the South to the North of Vietnam at one stage. I now struggle to pedal my 'normal' MTB, getting on and off is also a fun sight. I purchase a Cube reaction hardtail (Bosch smart thing) and added a suspension seat post... I'd piled on weight due to inactivity and lack of mobility and needed to do something. It has a 'slightly' lower crossbar so mounting and dismounting is less entertaining. I can now comfortably do 40 odd mile runs, I tend to only use Tour+ unless I get a big hill and need extra shove via eMTB; never use Turbo, I say never, but the app shows 2 miles in the 1000 odd covered so far. 7 stones off in 10 months, I'll take that, and my back/spine thanks me for it... Only had one 'negative' in that time.... Mr Jogger was 'entertaining' his lady crowd on a canal bridge and called out to 'let the cyclist through' in his condescending tone.. Then added, 'Oh, he's no cyclist, it's electric'. My tolerance for idiots when at the tail end of the 40 miler and in a fair amount of pain meant that I decided to confront rather than ride away... Oh he was embarrassed and his entourage weren't happy with him when I asked if he had enough brain cells to consider that there may be a reason why I choose to ride electric... I'm still well over 6' and rugby prop forward shape, he looked a bit shocked to be confronted... Either way, I get a real good workout from the bike, it's helped me shift a chunk of lard and get some strength in my legs; it has given me at least some freedom and independence.... As and when it wears out, I'll 100% treat myself to a full suspension as I'm light enough to be able to go that way now... I only really do canals, quiet lanes, disused railway lines, that sort of thing.. Suits me, never thought I'd get where I am after my accident. Roger

Funnily enough my wife's bike also has a constant whine but it doesn't come from the motor.

Hub motors are great Mid-drives are great E-bikes are great The END.

I've added a 'What's New?' link on the bar along the top. You can further customise this using the 'Show Filters' button.

I kind of agree, but its a bed they've made for themselves. The US has caused the deaths,directly and indirectly some 45 million people since 1948, and all in the name of their economy. All those dead just for profit. Destabilized all of the middle east. installed dictatorships that brutally oppressed the people. And thats before we look at operation Condor ravaging central America Over 800 military bases spread around the world. Russia has something like 6 and China 9.

Good video that. It's true but kind of weird that the two galaxies, being 2.5 light years apart are actually already interacting. That distance is actually 14.7, billion, billion miles - a very big number. Another way to think of the distance is that it is about 25 times the diameter of the Milky way galaxy, which makes it sound quite neighbourly until you grasp how massive these galaxies actually are. You can see Andromeda with the naked eye if you have 20 20 vision and live in a dark sky area. I can JUST see it if I don't look directly at it. If you look straight at it without magnification, you are using the less sensitive colour receptors in your retina, look slightly off centre and you can see more of very feint features. With 10x50 binoculars, I can see the central core of the Andromeda Galaxy, and in exceptionally clear conditions I can only just make out the outer disk from my home location. This is what Andromeda looks like with 10x50 binocs - Here's some science for Poly to sneer at - it has an estimated 1 trillion stars in it, all of them pretty much trillions of miles apart. In my experience, in a city you will only just make out the central core. Better optics show a lot more.... It is quite easy to find the Andromeda Galaxy because it shows up near to Cassiopeia constellation which is an easy find as it looks like a big W. I used to think this was the nearest galaxy to the Milky Way, but in the southern hemisphere you can see two small satellite galaxies of the Milky Way called the Large and Small Magellanic Clouds. I've never seen them myself. Magellanic Clouds - two small irregular galaxies which can be seen from the Southern Hemisphere.

Please explain

Been out riding the Royal Enfield again this morning. Nine degrees C, but bright with some sunshine. I can't imagine why I have ridden this bike so little since I bought it 2 years ago. It is pretty much brand new and not even run in yet. A couple of weeks ago I did its first service on it myself rather than spend over 200 quid paying someone else to do the first oil and filter change and check and adjust the exhaust and inlet valve clearance. The hardest part of the job was getting the tank off so I could get at the valves. Modern bikes have electrics and several pipes to the petrol tank and some of them really didn't want to come off. All done now though and running as sweet as a nut.

You're completely wrong. It's illegal to steal stuff. It's illegal to sexually assault someone. It's illegal to enter our country without the correct paperwork and visa. Anybody who does one of those things has committed an illegal act. When people refer to illegal immigrants, they mean those that committed illegal acts. Those acts were illegal whethere they're allowed to stay or not.

Good morning Brian, I have responded twice to your You Tube video both times my responses seem to have been taken down? It is very easy to contact us but as you seem to be having problems please email me directly at david@wisperbikes.com, this morning we have had a thorough search through spam and email accounts and cannot find any correspondence from you. I have also asked you to call me on PM? Just in case you missed it my number is 07733226906, I’m a very friendly person so really don’t worry about calling me. These batteries have been recalled twice and reported by us to Trading Standards about 6 years ago. To put Wisper owners minds at rest this problem affected a very small production of batteries about 7 years ago. Through our thorough recall efforts we took nearly all of them out of the market and replaced them free of charge. They are not all accounted for. we believe there are still 9 out there somewhere. This was a problem on a specific 375Wh traditional Wisper battery. We have never had any kind of incident with any other battery, including 575Wh, 700Wh and 750Wh traditional bike batteries and all Wayfarer and Tailwind batteries. Any questions please pm or email me. All the best, David

Back to my original point. The tax code is way too complex. The amount of energy that's wasted arguing the toss about all this is stupendous and could be far more creatively used. Let's light the blue touchpaper and stand well back. Simply pay 20% of everything that goes into your bank account, with the bank required to report direct to HMRC. No if's or but's - a straight 20%. As we edge toward being wholly digital this would be easy to do. I'm going to the bunker !

I've fitted motors to at least three of those frames, and never had any issues. The dropouts are the same as any other frame. Whenever you fit an ebike kit to any bike, there are always some minor adjustments you have to do to get it right. Of course, some people are unable to recognise that their installation is sub-standard, and they're happy in their ignorance. I think about all those guys fitting Swytch kits after watching the video on how to fit it to any bike in 5 minutes. You see upside-down axles hardly fitting inside spindly aluminium dropouts. I wonder how many of those guys did face plants after their wheel span out of the drop-outs? I can guarantee that there were at least some. If Swytch took the time to explain all the ins and outs of different forks and the different fitting problems, everybody would be too scared to fit one of their kits.

Looking at my coding last night for the assist it suddenly becomes clear what I've done. In the original code for using an LCD3 it just divides the output into fifths. L1 is 20%, L2 is 40% etc. The Bafang display code has an assist factor allowing more accurate mapping. In attempting to add this to the KT code I accidentally multiplied it to a number greater than 1 meaning it was delivering full power in all assist levels. This is now corrected. First proper run this morning. Assist levels work like the KT with L1 at 13% and all the way through to L5 at 100%. Pickup for pedal assist seems to have a delay. So I will have to look at that. I might be imagining it but it seems the faster you pedal, the more power is delivered. The power delivered is more than the KT so it will need to be reduced to give a fair comparison. Speed sensing is all over the place. When freewheeling it drops to a silly number and when over cut off it freezes at the cutoff point. I guess it is picking it up from the Hall sensors rather than the speed pickup. Overall though a promising start. Will ride it for a few more days without modifying to see if I can pickup on anything else that needs changing.

yes, I could but I don´t like badmouth the competitors because it´s not my style. I only like to say, from a technological standpoint, software + hardware capability Lishui is in compare simply far ahead

Wonder if the powers that be will also include a category for 'dangerous walking' in the new legislation ? These days, especially on cycle paths, large numbers of pedestrians no longer look where they are going as they are constantly staring at phones and random changes of direction are the norm.